by Selin Kiazim
SEMOLINA CAKE
Simit tatlisi is a classic cake in our household. Mum makes it at the end of the Bayram dinners that mark Turkish festivals and national holidays. At Bayram, all the family comes together for a big Turkish roast dinner with all the trimmings. This recipe is slightly lighter and not quite as sweet as a traditional version, which is just as well at the end of a big meal.
SERVES 16 – 20
190ml (6½fl oz) sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
250g (9oz) caster sugar
grated zest of 1 lemon
250ml (9fl oz) milk
500g (1lb 2oz) coarse semolina
1 tablespoon baking powder
200g (7oz) skinned whole almonds, crushed
FOR THE SYRUP
1.5 litres (2½ pints) water
500g (1lb 2oz) caster sugar
freshly squeezed juice of ¼ lemon
1–2 tablespoons rose water or orange blossom water (optional)
First make the syrup. Bring the water and sugar to the boil in a pan. Reduce the heat and simmer until it reaches a syrupy consistency, then add the lemon juice and rose or orange blossom water, if using. Set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7 and lightly oil a baking dish measuring about 26 x 36cm (10 x 14in).
To make the cake, put the eggs, vanilla, sugar and lemon zest in a bowl and whisk until just combined. Add the measured oil and milk. Mix the semolina and baking powder together in a large bowl. Gradually, whisking all the time, add the wet mixture to the semolina to form a smooth batter. Pour it into the prepared dish and scatter the almonds over the surface. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown and an inserted skewer comes out cleanly.
Leave the cake to rest for 2 minutes before pouring over the syrup in 4 batches, allowing each batch to be absorbed before adding the next. Once all the syrup has been absorbed, cut the cake into portions.
BLOOD ORANGE GANACHE, POACHED PEAR & ROSEMARY FILO SHARDS
This blood orange ganache is a real crowd pleaser. It’s rich and works well alongside the juicy poached pear and the filo shards that add texture to the dish. At the beginning of the year, when blood oranges are in season, I always include this on the menu.
SERVES 8
500ml (18fl oz) blood orange juice
270g (9½oz) good-quality white chocolate
200ml (7fl oz) double cream
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
FOR THE POACHED PEAR
1 litre (1¾ pints) water
250ml (9fl oz) white wine
375g (13oz) caster sugar
250g (9oz) honey
1 strip of lemon zest
1 sprig of thyme
4 pears (I like to use Williams)
freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon
FOR THE DECORATION
4 sheets of filo pastry
3 heaped tablespoons unsalted butter
icing sugar, for dusting
1 tablespoon rosemary, finely chopped
2 blood oranges, segmented
Bring the orange juice to the boil in a pan and simmer to reduce it to 150ml (5fl oz). Meanwhile, put the white chocolate, double cream and vanilla in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, making sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Leave it to melt, then remove from heat and let it cool slightly. Once the white chocolate mixture and reduced orange juice are about the same temperature, whisk them together. Transfer to a container and place in the refrigerator to set.
To poach the pears, put the water in a pan with the wine, sugar, honey, lemon zest and thyme and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until it reaches a light syrup consistency. Meanwhile, peel the pears, cut them in half and remove the core with a spoon. Rub them with the lemon juice to prevent discoloration. Once all the pears are prepared, add them carefully to the poaching liquid and cover with a piece of baking parchment sitting directly on top of the liquid.
Reduce the heat to its lowest setting and poach for about 15 minutes, or until the pears are just soft (use a knife to test them). Remove the fruit and simmer the liquid to reduce it to a thicker syrup consistency. Set aside to cool, then pour it over the pears.
Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7. To make filo shards, take 1 sheet of filo and brush it with melted butter. Dust it with icing sugar, sprinkle over some rosemary, then place another sheet of filo over the top. Repeat the process twice more, brushing and sprinkling between each one, but brush the very top with butter only. Place the filo ‘sandwich’ between 2 sheets of baking parchment, then slide it onto a flat baking tray and put another (preferably identical) baking tray on top. Bake for 6 minutes, then check to see if the filo is golden brown and crisp. You will probably need to cook it for another 5 minutes, but keep checking it. Remove the top baking sheet and set the filo aside to cool.
To serve, put half a poached pear on each plate (if you have a blowtorch, you could lightly glaze the cut side). Put a spoonful of ganache next to the pear, break off a shard of filo and poke it into the ganache. Decorate each plate with fresh orange segments and serve.
MUHALLEBI WITH STRAWBERRY JELLY
Muhallebi is a milk pudding thickened with cornflour. It was my dad’s favourite dessert, so there was often a bowl of this sitting in the refrigerator when I was growing up. Traditionally, it is served with rosewater syrup or a sprinkling of ground cinnamon. I think the addition of strawberry jelly, which is inspired by my chef college mentor Vince Cottam, is very good. Vince coached me through several culinary competitions, and a berry-based soup was sometimes included in our desserts. I’ve adjusted the recipe here to make the berry soup into a jelly.
SERVES 4 – 6
3 heaped tablespoons cornflour
570ml (1 pint) milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 heaped tablespoons caster sugar
200g (7oz) mixed berries, washed and hulled, to decorate
FOR THE STRAWBERRY JELLY
150g (5½oz) raspberries, hulled
300g (10½oz) strawberries, hulled
150g (5½oz) redcurrants (or use more of the other berries)
30g (1oz) icing sugar
½ vanilla pod, halved lengthways and seeds scraped out
2–3 gelatine leaves
In a small bowl, mix the cornflour with 200ml (7fl oz) of the milk. Put the rest of the milk in a pan and bring gently to the boil. Reduce the heat and whisk in the cornflour mixture and the sugar. Continue whisking until it turns into a thick custard, then pour it straight into your serving glasses or dishes and leave to cool. Once cool, put it in the refrigerator to set.
To make the jelly, mix the berries with the icing sugar and vanilla in a heatproof bowl and cover it tightly with clingfilm. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water and leave for 30 minutes: the juices will be released from the fruits. Transfer to a sieve set over a jug and leave until all the juices have run out. You can push very gently on the fruits to help the process along, but don’t push too hard, or the juice will become cloudy.
The amount of liquid released from your fruit will determine how much gelatine you need. For 100ml (3½fl oz) liquid you need 1 gelatine leaf. Soak the correct amount of gelatine in cold water until softened. Heat half the berry liquid in a pan to just below boiling point, then remove from the heat, squeeze out the gelatine and add it to the hot liquid. Once the gelatine has dissolved, whisk in the rest of the berry liquid and strain the mixture through a sieve. Once it is completely cold, divide it between the muhallebi dishes and return them to the refrigerator to set. Serve with a selection of fresh berries on top.
SYRUP SPONGE STUFFED WITH RICOTTA & WALNUTS
If you are a fan of syrup-based desserts, you will love this one, called Ekmek Kadayif in Turkish. I especially like the way the ricotta gives it a savoury touch to balance out the sweetness. The cardamom is my addition, so not traditional; you could also try it wi
th other spices, such as cloves, star anise and cinnamon. You can find the dried bread-like sponge used in this recipe at Turkish supermarkets or bakeries – if they don’t have it and you ask nicely, they will usually make it for you. Serve with ice cream or clotted cream.
SERVES 10 – 12
1 packet ekmek kadayif (a kind of dry sponge cake, available at Turkish supermarkets), about 25cm (10 inches) in diameter, sliced in half horizontally
500g (1lb 2oz) ricotta
300g (10½oz) walnuts, toasted and crushed
50ml (2fl oz) rose water or orange blossom water (optional)
FOR THE SYRUP
1.5 litres (2½pints) water
1kg (2lb 4oz) caster sugar
2 cardamom pods, toasted and lightly crushed
Start by making the syrup. Put the water, sugar and cardamom in a pan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer to a light syrup consistency. Strain into a fresh pan once ready, and keep hot.
Meanwhile, place each sponge half, cut side up, on 2 separate trays (the bottom half should go into a large baking tray that can sit over direct heat). Spoon the rose water, if using, over each half. Spread the ricotta over the bottom layer of the sponge, and sprinkle with the walnuts. Top with the other sponge.
Place the tray directly over a medium heat and ladle the hot syrup over the cake bit by bit until all used up. Once the syrup has sunk to the bottom of the tray, use a tablespoon to keep basting it over until it is all absorbed. Leave to cool completely before cutting and serving.
POACHED & BARBECUED QUINCE
I first discovered that this was a great way to cook fruit when I tried it with peaches, so all types of stone fruit can be prepared like this too. Quince is very popular in Turkey: it is used in jams, compotes or simply poached in syrup. My mum even likes it raw! This dish makes a lovely accompaniment to a piece of cake or tart, and is great served with ice cream and chopped pistachios, with some extra syrup poured over the top. But it also works well as a dessert on its own, especially after a barbecue.
SERVES 8
1 litre (1¾ pints) water
1kg (2lb 4oz) caster sugar
½ cinnamon stick
2 cloves
1 star anise
½ vanilla pod, halved lengthways and seeds scraped out
4 quinces
juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon orange blossom water (optional)
Put the water in a pan with the sugar, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, vanilla seeds and pod and bring to the boil. Simmer to reduce to a light syrup consistency.
Meanwhile, peel the quinces, cut them into quarters, remove the core and rub the pieces with lemon juice. If your syrup is not ready to start poaching them immediately, put the quince in water with a squeeze of lemon juice.
Put the quince pieces in the syrup and simmer gently with a circle of baking parchment sitting directly on top of the liquid to hold the fruit down. Simmer for 8 minutes, then check to see if they are tender. You should be able to insert a knife or skewer comfortably. Don’t overcook them, as they will turn to mush. Remove from the heat and leave to cool in the syrup. Add the orange blossom water, if using.
Heat a barbecue until ready to cook and the coals are grey, or heat a ridged griddle pan until very hot. Drain the quince pieces and place on the hot barbecue or griddle pan. Cook for 2–3 minutes, or until charred, then turn and cook the other side. Dress the quince pieces in a little syrup before serving.
CANDIED BERGAMOT & SEVILLE ORANGES
Preserving fruits and even some vegetables in syrup is very common in Turkish cookery. Cyprus is especially well known for producing the best preserves: I think this is because the produce is so incredible in the first place. Some of my favourites are whole green walnuts, bergamot and Seville oranges (known in Turkish as turunc). Try using them in desserts to flavour creams, or even with some thick yogurt for breakfast. Traditionally, they are served on a small fork sitting inside a glass of cold water, to be eaten after a strong Turkish coffee.
MAKES 40 PIECES
10 bergamot or Seville oranges
350ml (12fl oz) water
750g (1lb 10oz) caster sugar
juice of ½ lemon
Finely grate a thin layer of the zest off each fruit. Cut a small slice off the top and bottom, then slide the blade of a small knife between the pith and the flesh at the top and bottom of the fruit. Now score each orange 4 times from top to bottom, spacing the cuts evenly. Remove the 4 pieces of peel. Using a small knife, carefully remove most of the pith from inside each piece of peel.
To achieve a nice shape, roll up each piece of peel and pass a needle and strong cotton or string through it. Roll up the next piece and thread it onto the cotton next to the first one, pushing the pieces close together. Repeat with the rest of the peel. Alternatively, you can just leave the pieces as they are. Once they are all threaded, tie up the ends tightly.
Place the peel pieces in a large bowl or pan of cold water and put a plate on top to hold them down. Change the water 2–3 times during the day and repeat this process for 4–5 days. (This is to remove the bitterness.)
Fill a large pan with fresh water, add the peel pieces and bring to the boil. Drain and refill the pan, then bring to the boil again. Repeat this process 3 more times, then drain and leave to cool. Once they are cool enough to handle, take the peel pieces off the string.
Put the measured water in the pan, add the sugar and bring it to the boil, then turn it down to a simmer and add the peel pieces. Cook for 30–40 minutes, or until the liquid takes on a loose, syrup-like consistency. Add the lemon juice. Remove from the heat, then transfer the peel and syrup to sterilized jars.
TAHINI SPIRAL & SPICED HOT CHOCOLATE
This is a take on the Spanish churros and hot chocolate. The crisp, flaky pastry goes perfectly with the gently spiced chocolate. You could try using peanut butter too. For me, a trip to a Turkish bakery normally involves picking up one of these spirals. For the hot chocolate, you could play around with the spices and use cumin, vanilla, chilli or baharat.
SERVES 4 – 8 (MAKES 4 LARGE SPIRALS)
1kg (2lb 4oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 x 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
1 tablespoon caster sugar
½ teaspoon fine salt
250ml (9fl oz) milk
50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter, softened
50ml (2fl oz) sunflower oil
1 large egg
eggwash made from 1 large egg yolk beaten with 1 tablespoon milk
FOR THE FILLING
250g (9oz) tahini
250g (9oz) caster sugar
150g (5½oz) walnuts, toasted and crushed, plus extra for the tops (optional)
FOR THE SPICED HOT CHOCOLATE
1.5 litres (2½ pints) milk
1 cinnamon stick, toasted 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted
225g (8oz) dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), chopped
caster sugar, to taste
orange blossom water, to taste (optional)
freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Add the milk, butter, oil and egg, bring it together with your hands, then knead to make a smooth dough. Cover the bowl with clingfilm and set aside in a warm place until doubled in size (this will take about 1 hour).
Meanwhile, mix the tahini and sugar together. Once the dough has proved, knead it gently and divide it into 4 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and cover with a damp cloth. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6 and line a baking sheet with baking parchment.
Take one ball of dough and roll it out on a lightly floured surface into a circle about 3mm (⅛in) thick. Spread a quarter of the tahini mixture across the dough, leaving a 2cm (¾in) gap around the edge. Sprinkle over a quarter of the walnuts, if using. Roll the dough up tightly to make a sausage shape. Take the ends of the dough and twist in opposite directions t
o make a corkscew shape, then roll the whole thing into a spiral, tucking the end in underneath. Place it on the prepared baking sheet, pushing it down evenly to flatten it a little. Repeat with the rest of the dough. You might need to use 2 baking sheets to make sure you can leave a 3cm (1¼in) gap between each spiral. Let them rest for 15 minutes.
Brush the tops of the spirals with the eggwash. Scatter over the extra walnuts, if using. Bake for 25–30 minutes, or until golden and crisp.
To make the spiced hot chocolate, put the milk and spices in a saucepan over a medium heat. Gently bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Turn the heat off and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Add the chocolate and return to a low heat until melted. Add as much sugar and orange blossom water as you wish. Strain out all the spices, pour the hot chocolate into cups and grate over the nutmeg. Serve with the tahini spirals.
INDEX
A
Adana köfte with pitta bread
almonds: semolina cake
spiced rice, apricot, almond & filo pie
apple tea: Cypriot 75
Turkish apple tea
apricots (dried): pickled apricots
spiced rice, apricot, almond & filo pie
