½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 1–2 tbsp (10–20 g) for sprinkling
¼ tsp fine sea salt
4 large egg whites (½ cup [120 ml])
3 medium ripe but firm plums (225 g)
VACATION:
BUCKWHEAT HAZELNUT PEAR FINANCIERS
Omit the almond and chestnut flours, using ¾ cup (75 g) hazelnut flour/meal and ⅓ cup (40 g) buckwheat flour. Omit the plums, using 2 medium ripe but firm pears (225 g). Peel the pears, halve them lengthwise, cut out the cores and stems, and halve again crosswise. Slice into ¼-inch (6-mm) thick pieces and proceed with the recipe.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Use a pastry brush or scrunched-up paper towel to rub 10–12 standard muffin tins with the 1–2 teaspoons (5–10 g) softened butter. (Alternatively, line the cups with paper liners.)
Place the remaining 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan with the vanilla pod and scrapings. Cook over medium heat, swirling occasionally. After 3–5 minutes, the butter will foam up, turn golden and smell nutty, with brown flecks mingling with black vanilla bean seeds on the bottom of the pan. At this point, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter into a small heatproof bowl to stop the cooking, and let cool for 10–15 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and discard.
In a large bowl, sift together the almond and chestnut flours with the cornstarch, ½ cup (100 g) sugar and salt, adding back any bits that get stuck in the strainer. Whisk in the egg whites vigorously until the batter is smooth, then whisk in the melted, cooled butter little by little until well combined. Let sit while you prepare the plums; the batter will thicken slightly. It can also be covered and chilled for up to 2 days prior to baking.
Using a sharp knife, cut the plums off their pits and slice thinly, discarding the end pieces that are mostly skin. Divide the batter among the greased or lined cups, filling them halfway. (A spring-loaded ice cream scoop makes quick work of this.) Top with a fan of plum slices and sprinkle the tops with the remaining 1–2 tablespoons (10–20 g) sugar, using more for tart plums and less for sweeter ones.
Bake the cakes until golden on top and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 30–35 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes, then use a thin knife or small offset spatula to loosen the edges and release the cakes from the pans. Financiers are best the day of baking, but they keep well, airtight at room temperature, for an additional day or two.
NOTE: Be sure to grease your molds with softened butter the consistency of mayonnaise, as the sticky batter will gladly adhere to less well-greased pans. Alternatively, line the muffin pan with paper liners.
FIG AND OLIVE OIL CAKE
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
This cake was inspired by a flat of gorgeous Black Mission figs that arrived at my door, hand-picked by my dear friend Amelia from her grandmother’s tree. The figs were enormous—it took only four, each cut into eighths, to cover the top of this cake. The base is the same as the Chocolate Pear Tea Cakes with Rosemary, Olive Oil and Sea Salt on, but with a good grating of lemon zest mixed in to contrast the sweet figs. Almond flour and Greek yogurt form a nubby base that supports the juicy figs, and the lemon plays off the olive oil to add a bit of mysterious complexity. A good sprinkle of sugar over the top makes a crunchy crust. If figs aren’t about, try this cake crowned with sliced plums instead.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND CAKE, 10 SERVINGS
1 tsp (5 g) unsalted butter, for the pan
1 cup (120 g) blanched almond flour
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour
¼ cup (35 g) millet flour
2 tsp (8 g) baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 2 tbsp (20 g) for sprinkling on top
2 large eggs
½ cup (120 g) whole-milk plain Greek yogurt
(I use Straus Family Creamery)
6 tbsp (90 ml) flavorful extra-virgin olive oil
Finely grated zest from 1 medium lemon
4–6 large (200 g) fresh figs
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan with the unsalted butter and place on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.
Sift the almond, sweet rice, oat and millet flours together into a medium bowl along with the baking powder, baking soda and salt, adding back any bits that get caught in the sifter. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the ½ cup (100 g) sugar, eggs, yogurt, olive oil and lemon zest. Stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture until smooth and homogenous. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, and smooth into an even layer.
Trim the stems from the figs, halve each lengthwise, and cut each half into 4 wedges (for large figs) or 2 wedges (for smaller figs). Place the fig wedges over the top of the cake batter in concentric rings (or just drop them over the top willy-nilly—that looks nice, too). Sprinkle all over with the remaining 2 tablespoons (20 g) sugar.
Bake the cake until golden on top and a tester inserted near the center comes out clean, 40–50 minutes.
Remove the cake from the oven and let cool completely, 45 minutes, then remove the sides from the pan. Slide the cake onto a serving platter and cut into wedges to serve.
The cake is best within the first 2 days of baking but will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days.
CHOCOLATE PEAR TEA CAKES WITH ROSEMARY, OLIVE OIL AND SEA SALT
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
These little cakes were inspired by a cast-iron muffin pan I scored at the Alemany Flea Market in San Francisco. They straddle the line between sweet and savory with the additions of peppery olive oil, bittersweet chocolate, flakes of sea salt and a whisper of rosemary. The combination of sweet rice, millet, oat and almond flours keeps them delicate but never crumbly, despite the lack of gums or starches, and the neutral flavor of the grains allows the subtle nuances of ripe pear to star. These little cakes are incredibly moist from olive oil and whole-milk yogurt, and the almond flour adds a bit of nubby texture. I like to top the muffins with extras of the flavorings to pretty them up and let everyone know what’s hiding inside: juicy pear chunks, shavings of chocolate and woodsy rosemary. These make a first-rate afternoon treat alongside a cup of tea, though I won’t tell if you have one for breakfast …
MAKES 12 INDIVIDUAL CAKES
CAKES
1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the pan
1 cup (120 g) blanched almond flour
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour
¼ cup (35 g) millet flour
2 tsp (8 g) baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar
2 large eggs
½ cup (120 ml) whole-milk plain yogurt (I use Straus European-style whole-milk yogurt)
6 tbsp (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp (1 g) finely chopped fresh rosemary
⅔ cup (3.5 oz [100 g]) chopped bittersweet chocolate
1½ cups (140 g) chopped ripe but firm pear
TOPPING
Pear pieces
Chocolate chunks
Chopped rosemary
Coarse sugar, such as demerara or turbinado
Flaky salt, such as Maldon
To make the cakes, position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Brush the cups and top of a standard 12-cup muffin tin with the softened butter (or fill with paper liners).
Sift the almond, sweet rice, oat and millet flours together into a medium bowl along with the baking powder, baking soda and salt, adding back any bits that get caught in the sifter. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, eggs, yogurt, oliv
e oil and rosemary. Gently stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture until smooth, then fold in the chocolate and pears until evenly distributed.
Divide the batter among the muffin cups, filling them almost to the top. Top each cake with a pear piece, chocolate bits, a few bits of rosemary, a flutter of coarse sugar and a few flakes of salt.
Bake the cakes until golden on top and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 23–30 minutes. They are still baking from residual heat, so let cool until warm, at least 20 minutes, then release them from the pan and let cool completely. Extra cakes will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days.
CHESTNUT ROULADE CAKE WITH RUM, MASCARPONE AND ROASTED PEARS
{CHESTNUT, SWEET RICE}
My favorite-ever job was baking at a short-lived, all-organic patisserie run by two sisters. The owner and head baker Rachel would go to any length to obtain organic products, which included candying our own citrus peels, blanching our own almonds and roasting and peeling chestnuts to puree into chocolate cakes. Luckily, the chestnut thing happened only once. We spent several days heating and peeling the little buggers around the clock, only to end up with burnt fingertips and a handful of dense cakes that didn’t sell. I swore off chestnuts for a while after that, until my dear friend and yoga teacher Gizella, who hails from Hungary and has a sadistic streak when it comes to core work (though, thankfully, not chestnut peeling), made a tiramisù of sorts filled with chestnut cream whipped with mascarpone. I thought I’d died and gone to heaven.
Here, that same deliciousness fills a springy cake flavored with earthy chestnut flour, plenty of dark rum and brown sugar all rolled up with roasted pears. A taste tester described it as “light and fluffy, but still wintery and warm-tasting.” In the United States, chestnut products only appear in stores around the holidays, but you can scour Italian grocers to find them year-round. Look for chestnut spread or cream made with sugar (as opposed to puree made from just chestnuts and water). Perrotta makes a less-sweet version that tastes as though made by angels, but others will work just fine. You’ll have a little extra filling left over to “taste” or serve along slices. If you like your desserts extra-boozy, up the rum or whiskey to ⅓ cup (80 ml). This makes an ideal do-ahead dessert as it stores well for a day or two and needs only to be sliced and plated when it comes time for dessert. Watch them swoon.
MAKES ONE 12-INCH (30-CM) LONG ROLLED CAKE, 12 SERVINGS
CAKE
¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil (or other neutral-tasting vegetable oil)
½ cup (120 ml) water
2 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (135 g) fresh, packed organic light or dark brown sugar
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (55 g) chestnut flour
2 tbsp (15 g) tapioca flour
1¼ tsp (6 g) baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
5 egg whites (½ cup plus 2 tbsp [150 ml]), at room temperature
¼ tsp cream of tartar
2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ cup (25 g) powdered sugar, plus more for finishing
¼ cup (60 ml) GF black or spiced rum (such as The Kraken)
ROASTED PEARS
1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter
8 medium-sized pears such as Bartlett or Anjou, ripe but firm (2 lb [900 g])
2 tbsp (20 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar
CHESTNUT CREAM
1 cup (225 g) mascarpone
1 cup (225 g) sweetened chestnut spread (sometimes called “chestnut cream”)
1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped (pod reserved for Vanilla Extract, or 1 tsp vanilla extract
Big pinch of fine sea salt
2 tbsp (20 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar, as needed (depending on sweetness of chestnut spread)
NOTES
• If you can’t find chestnut spread, no worries; leave it out and add 2–4 tablespoons (25–50 g) packed organic brown sugar to taste.
• Roulade cakes can be tricky even for seasoned bakers. If your cake cracks in too many places when you roll it up, never fear: cut it up, stick it in individual serving glasses or bowls, dust with a little extra powdered sugar and call it trifle.
To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line a 12 by 17–inch (30 by 43–cm) ungreased rimmed baking sheet with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit.
In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, water, egg yolks and vanilla, then whisk in the brown sugar. Place a mesh strainer over the bowl and sift in the sweet rice, chestnut and tapioca flours with the baking powder and salt directly into the bowl, adding back any bits left behind in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth.
In the clean, dry bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a large bowl with a hand blender or balloon whisk), whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Slowly add the sugar and whip until the whites are glossy and hold a firm peak when lifted from the bowl.
Use a flexible silicone spatula to fold one-third of the whites into the batter to loosen, then gently fold in the rest until just combined and no streaks remain. Immediately pour the batter onto the prepared baking sheet, and quickly but gently use an offset spatula to spread the batter into a thin, even layer. Transfer to the oven and bake until the cake springs back to the touch, 20–30 minutes. While the cake bakes, gather the following to have at the ready: powdered sugar in a strainer, small offset spatula or knife, large clean kitchen towel, a second baking sheet and kitchen shears or a sharp knife.
Working quickly, dust the top of the baked cake with the powdered sugar and use the knife or spatula to loosen it from the sides of the pan. Place a large, clean kitchen towel over the cake and top with a second, inverted baking sheet. Wearing oven mitts, grab the whole thing and flip it over. Remove the hot pan and carefully peel away the parchment paper. Trim away ¼ inch (6 mm) from each edge of the cake, and roll up the cake with the towel; this will help set the shape and the steam will keep it moist and pliant. You can either roll the cake from a short end for a fatter roll (as shown here) or from a long end for a skinnier roll. Either way, let the cake hang out in its towel roll until mostly cool, about 1 hour.
While the cake cools, roast the pears. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C). Rub a rimmed baking sheet with a little of the butter and cut the rest into small pieces. Peel the pears, cut them off the core and slice into ¼- to ½-Winch (6- to 13-mm) thick slices. Spread in a single layer on the buttered pan, sprinkle with the brown sugar and dot with the butter pieces. Roast the pears until golden on the underside, about 20 minutes, then turn each slice and roast on the second side until golden, 10–20 more minutes; it’s okay if they get broken up a little. Remove from the oven and use a thin metal spatula to scrape the pears onto a large plate. Chill until cool, 15 minutes.
To make the chestnut cream, place the mascarpone in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Mash with a flexible spatula to smooth out any lumps, then add the chestnut spread, heavy cream, vanilla seeds and salt. Whip on medium speed until the mixture holds firm peaks (we want it fairly firm so that the cake will hold its shape). Taste, adding a tablespoon or two (15 or 30 g) of brown sugar if you feel the filling needs it. Cover and chill until needed.
Gently unroll the cake. Use a pastry brush to drizzle and dab the rum evenly over the cake. Leaving a 1-inch (2.5-cm) border on the inner and outer edges, cover the cake with about three-fourths of the chestnut cream, reserving the rest, and top with the roasted pears. Re-roll the cake into a log, ending with the seam side down and using the towel to help. Use a wide spatula to transfer it to a baking sheet or board, and cover it with plastic wrap. Chill the cake until sliceable, at least an hour and up to 1 day. (If the cake isn’t perfectly round, or if it crac
ks, you can usually smoosh it together once chilled.)
When ready to serve, dust the cake with a little more powdered sugar. Use a sharp chef’s knife to slice the cake into rounds and serve with the extra chestnut cream if you like. The cake will keep for up to 3 days.
VARIATION: CHESTNUT ROULADE WITH MASCARPONE, CINNAMON ROASTED APPLES AND WHISKEY (OR CALVADOS)
Omit the pears, using 2 pounds (900 g) tart baking apples (6 medium) and sprinkling the raw apples with ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon in addition to the brown sugar. Replace the rum with an equal amount of GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie Sorghum Whiskey), or try this with Calvados, an apple brandy from the Normandy region of France.
GINGER, VANILLA AND QUINCE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}
I have a hard time letting go of summer produce come fall, but fun fruits such as quinces and persimmons help ease the transition. Quinces are a member of the pome family along with apples and pears, and they look like a knobby combination of the two. Their flesh is pithy and must undergo a long, slow cook to be rendered edible. When they do, they turn a delightful shade of pink, and their mysterious flavors get teased out. Pomes are part of the rose family, which makes sense given the floral notes inherent in a quince. I like to accentuate quince’s flowery qualities, so here I’ve paired it with vanilla, Meyer lemon and fresh ginger all wrapped up in a buttery cake. Sweet rice, oat and millet flours make a neutral base with a meltingly tender texture that allows the subtle tastes in this cake to star. Serve slices with a dollop of Whipped Crème Fraîche for a pretty fall dessert or teatime treat. And if you haven’t any quinces about, try the equally delicious pear version, below.
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) CAKE, 8–10 SERVINGS
POACHED QUINCES
1 vanilla bean
½ large lemon (preferably Meyer)
Alternative Baker Page 7
