The tarts are best the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but they will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
VARIATION: BERRY FROMAGE BLANC TARTLETS
No kumquats? No worries! Make the filling with 4 tablespoons (60 ml) honey and top the tartlets with fresh summer berries.
GRAPEFRUIT AND ELDERFLOWER CURD TART
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
When you’re a baker or a cook, you tend to learn about people’s tastes. You learn that Nancy hates rhubarb, or that Joe is allergic to tree nuts. A surprising fact that I recently learned is that several people I know are obsessed with grapefruit. Grapefruit! I love the juice in mimosas, but I never expected people to go so crazy for grapefruit desserts.
Grapefruits, particularly the pale pink variety, come into season in midwinter and remain sweet and delicious through the spring. Their flavor is a complex mix of bitter and astringent, floral and sweet. This tart celebrates grapefruit’s zest and juice with a buttery curd that bursts with intense flavor. Elderflower, here in the form of St-Germain liqueur, makes grapefruit taste even more like itself—like flowers and champagne and old fancy hats in your grandmother’s closet (in a good way). Against a buttery shortbread crust flavored with almond and vanilla, this magical curd will convert the staunchest grapefruit haters, and make its fans supremely happy.
Blood orange juice, if you’ve got it, turns the curd a pretty shade of pink; alternatively, just use more grapefruit juice. This tart needs no accompaniment, but you can gussy up slices with pink grapefruit supremes or a dollop of Whipped Crème Fraîche sprinkled with a few crushed lavender buds, as one of my testers did so prettily.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8–10 SERVINGS
One 9-inch (23-cm) Vanilla Almond Tart Crust, parbaked
2 tsp (5 g) packed finely grated pink grapefruit zest (from 1 large or 2 small grapefruit)
¾ cup (180 ml) strained pink grapefruit juice (from 2 medium grapefruit)
¼ cup (60 ml) strained blood orange juice (from 1–2 small blood oranges)
¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
3 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
8 tbsp (113 g) cold, unsalted butter, in
½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
¼ cup (60 ml) St-Germain elderflower liqueur
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Place the parbaked tart crust on a rimmed baking sheet, and if it has cooled, place in the oven to heat for 5–10 minutes before you add the curd; this will help keep the crust crisp.
To make the curd, set a mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl or large measuring cup and set aside.
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the zest, grapefruit and blood orange juices, sugar, salt, eggs and egg yolks to combine. Place the pot over medium-low heat, and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof silicone spatula, until the mixture thickens slightly and reaches 170°F (77°C) on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes. As you stir, be sure to scrape the entire bottom of the pan and into the corners, so that the mixture heats as evenly as possible. Immediately strain the mixture through the strainer and into the bowl. Stir in the butter pieces until melted, then the liqueur. Cool the curd for 10 minutes.
Pour the slightly cooled curd into the warm tart shell and very carefully transfer it into the oven; it will be very full! Bake the tart until the sides are barely puffed and the tart wobbles like Jell-O when you give it a gentle shake, 18–25 minutes. It should not be wet or watery (underbaked), nor should it be puffed in the center or cracking (overbaked).
Remove the tart from the oven and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Remove the tart sides by placing the tart atop a large can or small, inverted bowl and gently easing the sides from the tart. Chill the tart until firm, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Cut into wedges and serve. The tart is best within the first 2 days of baking, but keeps well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
RUSTIC FRUIT DESSERTS
The first time I baked a pandowdy—an apple rhubarb recipe from a favorite Deborah Madison cookbook—I brought it to a friend’s house along with a pint of ice cream. We dished up bowls of fragrant, warm apples and tart rhubarb coated in spices and lidded with flaky pie dough, ice cream melting into puddles against the hot fruit, and tucked in. Jay broke the silence, proclaiming the dessert well worth the calories, and our friend’s eyes widened at the mention of the word. “But, this is FRUIT!” she declared. I thought back to the stick of butter I’d worked into the pastry dough, to the cup of sugar that went into taming the tart apples and rhubarb, and the pint of ice cream we’d demolished. “Yes,” I agreed. “It is fruit.”
This is why I love rustic fruit desserts. Though topped with buttery-sweet biscuits, cobbles, crumbles and batters, they are indeed made up in large proportion by good-for-you fruit. If you use peak-of-season fruit that bursts with sweetness and flavor, you needn’t do much to turn it into a wildly delicious dessert. A warm bowl of peach cobbler or blackberry crisp accompanied by a scoop of drippy ice cream, crisp pastry breaking against gooey fruit and silky custard: this is my happy place.
Here, alternative grains and flours add their unique tastes and textures to a variety of old-fashioned, fruit-based sweets. Buckwheat pairs up with winey blackberries for deep, dark crisps accented with lemon and spice. Marzipan and oat flour create a crunchy crumble topping to crown a pan of tender stone fruit screaming with almond flavor. Teff flour adds earthy sweetness to fluffy cobbler biscuits perched atop thick slices of bourbon-roasted peaches. A trio of alternative flours makes the flakiest pie dough to lid persimmon cranberry and apricot raspberry pandowdies. And millet lends buttery tenderness to ricotta biscuits for a twist on strawberry shortcake.
These desserts are all about the fruit, so use the ripest, most flavorful, locally grown versions you can find. And do have a pint or two of ice cream handy to top those warm, gooey fruit desserts; ice cream melting over tender pastry and mingling with thickened fruit is one of life’s greatest pleasures. After all, it’s fruit.
STRAWBERRY RHUBARB COBBLER WITH GINGER-AMARANTH BISCUITS
{SWEET RICE, AMARANTH, OAT}
There are many different cobblers in the world, with toppings ranging from cut biscuits to drop biscuits to a cakelike batter. I went through topping after topping trying to find a biscuit that baked up light and tender while standing up to juicy fruit. It wasn’t until my friend and recipe tester Caterina found an old recipe from Gourmet with 491 positive reviews (!) that employed the bizarre technique of adding boiling water to the biscuit dough, which gives the baking powder a head start before hitting the heat of the oven. We warmed the dairy, gave the dough the gentlest of handlings and voilà: cobbler perfection. Caterina also discovered that a combination of yogurt and heavy cream produces the fluffiest, most meltingly tender biscuits. This cobbler combines three of my favorite flavors in one gooey dessert: strawberry, rhubarb and ginger.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
FILLING
1 lb (450 g) trimmed rhubarb, sliced ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick on the diagonal (about 4 cups)
¾ lb (340 g) strawberries, hulled, quartered if large, halved if small (about 3 cups)
⅓ cup (70 g) organic granulated cane sugar
1 tbsp (7 g) cornstarch
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
BISCUITS
2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 2 tsp (8 g) for sprinkling the biscuits
2 tbsp (25 g) lightly packed finely chopped crystallized ginger
⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour
⅓ cup (35 g) amaranth flour
⅓ cup (35 g) GF oat flour
1 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp fine sea salt
4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ¼-inch (6-mm) dice
¼ cup (60 ml) plain, whole-milk yogurt
3 tbsp (45 ml) heavy cream, plus 1 tbsp (15 ml) for brushing the biscuits
/>
Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or Whipped Cream, for serving
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C).
To make the filling, combine the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, cornstarch and salt in a large bowl, and toss until combined. Scrape the fruit and any juices into a 9-inch (23-cm) square or 10-inch (25-cm) round baking dish or the equivalent, and place the dish on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake for 20 minutes, until the juices bubble thickly.
While the filling bakes, make the biscuits. In a large bowl, combine the 2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar and finely chopped ginger, rubbing it between your fingers until the sugar is moistened. Add the sweet rice, amaranth and oat flours, baking powder and salt. Add the butter and work in with a pastry blender or your fingertips until broken down into the size of small peas. Chill until needed, about 10 minutes.
When the fruit is nearly done, combine the yogurt and 3 tablespoons (45 ml) cream in a small saucepan. Place over a medium flame and heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture is hot and steamy, 1–2 minutes (don’t let it boil or it might separate). Quickly but gently stir the hot dairy into the butter/flour mixture, stirring just until combined, evenly moistened and no floury bits remain; do not overstir. Remove the fruit from the oven, give it a gentle stir to redistribute, then use a tablespoon to drop the batter onto the fruit, creating 10–12 rough mounds. Immediately dab and brush the tops with the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) cream and sprinkle with the remaining 2 teaspoons (8 g) sugar.
Bake the cobbler until the biscuits are golden on top and the fruit is bubbling thickly, 18–25 more minutes. Let the cobbler cool for at least 10 minutes to allow the fruit to thicken up and the biscuits to finish baking from residual heat. Scoop into bowls and serve warm, topped with scoops of vanilla ice cream, or at room temperature with whipped cream. The cobbler is best within a few hours of baking, but leftovers can be refrigerated airtight for up to 2 days. Reheat before serving.
NOTE: Do be sure to trim away any rhubarb leaves, which can be toxic in large quantities. And if you don’t have access to fresh rhubarb, this works equally well with frozen; just let it thaw slightly beforehand and give the fruit a little extra cooking time.
STRAWBERRY RICOTTA SHORTCAKES WITH HONEY AND TARRAGON
{OAT, MILLET}
The key ingredient to this twist on a classic springtime treat is a good-quality whole-milk ricotta. Rich and creamy, with large, soft curds, this thick cheese is a far cry from the bland, grainy supermarket variety. First the ricotta creates a tender biscuit, then it gets whipped with heavy cream for a pillow on which to rest sliced strawberries coated in a nap of honey and fresh tarragon leaves. Despite the surprising taste of tarragon and ricotta, a bite of this dessert will still conjure up memories of classic strawberry shortcake. Basil or mint can stand in for the tarragon if none is to be found, or trade the strawberries for nectarines, plums or peaches.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
6 Lemon Ricotta Biscuits
2 cups (230 g) sliced ripe strawberries
2 tbsp (30 ml) honey, plus extra for drizzling
1 tbsp (3 g) loosely packed torn tarragon leaves, plus some pretty sprigs for garnish
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
⅓ cup (80 ml) whole-milk ricotta
2 tsp (8 g) organic granulated cane sugar
Prepare and bake the biscuits. Let cool completely.
Toss the sliced berries with the honey and tarragon and let sit for 10 minutes to macerate and draw out the juices.
In a large bowl with a whisk, or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip together the cream, ricotta and sugar until the mixture forms soft peaks.
Use a serrated knife to slice the biscuits in half horizontally. Place the bottom halves on plates, top each with a large dollop of ricotta cream and place a mess of honeyed berries on top, letting some fall off onto the plate. Top with the biscuit lid, garnish with a drizzle of honey and a tarragon sprig or two, and serve.
VARIATION: BLACKBERRY RICOTTA SHORTCAKES WITH HONEY AND THYME
In place of the strawberries, use 2 cups (230 g) blackberries, halved if large. In place of the tarragon, use 1 tablespoon (3 g) loosely packed thyme leaves (preferably lemon thyme).
APRICOT RASPBERRY PANDOWDY
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
This springy combination of apricots and raspberries topped with cutouts of pie dough and sprinkled with coarse sugar makes a sublime alternative to pie when you’re pressed for time. I especially like this pandowdy served barely warm and topped with a bit of crème fraîche. Do use apricots that are ripe and fragrant; Blenheims are the gold standard among apricots, but any small, flavorful variety will do the trick. If your apricots are on the tart side, increase the sugar to ½ cup (100 g).
MAKES 6–8 SERVINGS
TOPPING
½ recipe Pie Dough for Pandowdies GF oat flour, for dusting
1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream (for brushing the dough)
1 tbsp (10 g) coarse sugar (turbinado or demerara)
FILLING
1½ lb (680 g) apricots, pitted and quartered (about 5 cups)
2 cups (225 g) raspberries
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar
1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice
1½ tbsp (12 g) cornstarch
⅛ tsp salt
Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or Crème Fraîche, for serving
To make the topping, prepare and chill the dough as directed. On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the dough into a round roughly ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Use a 2-inch (5-cm) fluted biscuit cutter to cut out rounds of dough, placed close together. Stack the dough pieces on a plate and chill until cold.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).
To make the filling, in a large bowl, toss together the quartered apricots, raspberries, sugar, lemon juice, cornstarch and salt until well combined. Scrape the mixture into a 10-inch (25-cm) skillet or ceramic tart pan, a 9-inch (23-cm) deep-dish pie pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking dish. Lay the chilled squares of dough over the fruit, overlapping them slightly and leaving some gaps for steam to escape. Brush the dough with the milk and sprinkle with the sugar. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.
Bake the pandowdy until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbling, 45–55 minutes. Let cool for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream or crème fraîche.
The pandowdy is best freshly baked when the crust is crisp. It will keep for up to 1 day at room temperature, or up to 3 days refrigerated airtight. Reheat in a 375°F (190°C) oven before serving.
APRICOT, ALMOND AND BROWN BUTTER BUCKLE
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
Buckles are one of those nebulous, old-fashioned desserts, like cobblers, crisps and crumbles, that can take on many different forms. Recipes range from a spoonable dessert of fruit and batter to a more sliceable coffee cake of sorts topped with a generous amount of fruit. As either type of buckle bakes, the fruit sinks into the cake and the batter buckles up through it, hence the name. This version features a sturdy cake loaded with almond flour to drink up moisture from ripe apricots, which bake into creamy pockets in the heat of the oven, and the whole cake sings with the butterscotch taste of vanilla bean, brown butter and dark brown sugar. The texture lies somewhere between a coffee cake and a financier, moist and dense from the almond flour. Sweet rice and oat flours create a fine crumb and add structure, and a smattering of sliced almonds and sugar make a crisp topping.
Apricots are unique in that they become more tart as they cook, so use the ripest, sweetest ones you can find here. All stone fruits play well with almonds and brown butter, so feel free to give this a go with cherries, peaches or nectarines, or try the buckwheat plum variation below. For tips on browning butter.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE, 8 SERVINGS
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, plus 1 tsp for the pan
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (130 g) packed organic light brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup (120 g) blanched almond flour
½ cup (75 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup (25 g) GF oat flour
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
12 oz (340 g) ripe apricots (about 8 medium), pitted and halved
¼ cup (25 g) unblanched sliced almonds
1½ tbsp (15 g) organic granulated cane sugar
VARIATION: BUCKWHEAT, PLUM AND ALMOND BROWN BUTTER BUCKLE
Omit the apricots and use 4–5 medium-sized plums (¾ pound [340 g]). Cut the plums off the pits and slice into large wedges. Omit the oat flour and use ¼ cup (35 g) buckwheat flour. Top the batter with the plums placed with a cut side down in concentric circles over the batter and press into the batter slightly. Proceed with the recipe.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9-inch (23-cm) round springform pan with the 1 teaspoon butter. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips and set aside.
Place the remaining 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter and vanilla pod and scrapings in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat, swirling occasionally. After 3–5 minutes, the butter will foam up, turn golden and smell nutty, with brown flecks mingling with black vanilla bean seeds on the bottom of the pan. At this point, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter into a large heatproof bowl to stop the cooking, and let cool for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and discard.
Add the brown sugar to the browned butter, stir to combine, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Set a strainer over the bowl and add the almond, sweet rice and oat flours with the baking powder and salt. Sift the dry ingredients into the butter mixture, pushing through what you can and adding back any almond bits into the bowl. Stir to combine.
Alternative Baker Page 14
