1 tsp vanilla extract
FILLING
8 oz (230 g) fresh soft goat cheese, at room temperature
8 oz (230 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
¾ cup (165 g) organic granulated cane sugar
2 tbsp (15 g) sweet white rice flour
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean (or 1 tsp vanilla extract)
Finely grated zest from 1 small lemon
¼ tsp fine sea salt
3 large eggs, at room temperature
¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream, sour cream or Crème Fraîche
1 cup (130 g) raspberries, plus extra, halved, for decorating
1 cup (140 g) blueberries, plus extra for decorating
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossed pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil, leaving an overhang on each side. This will help you lift the bars out of the pan after baking, making cutting easier.
To make the crust, place the pistachios, sweet rice flour, millet flour, tapioca flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Scatter the butter pieces over the top, sprinkle over the vanilla and pulse until the mixture begins to form large, coarse crumbs and holds together when squeezed, about 30 seconds. Dump the mixture into the lined pan, and use your hands to press it into an even layer. Bake the crust until golden and puffed, 25–35 minutes. Remove from the oven and gently press the hot crust down with the back of a spoon or the bottom of a flat measuring cup; this will help it hold together when sliced.
Decrease the oven temperature to 325°F (165°C).
To make the filling, wipe the food processor clean. Add the goat and cream cheeses, sugar, sweet rice flour, vanilla bean seeds, lemon zest and salt and blend just until smooth, 5–10 seconds. Add the eggs one at a time, processing until just smooth after each egg, and scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl to prevent lumps. Add the cream and process briefly just until smooth. Scrape once more, and blend again if at all lumpy, taking care not to overprocess the mixture.
Scatter the berries evenly over the cooled crust, and pour the filling over, distributing it evenly. Bake the cheesecake until the edges are set and the center wobbles very slightly when you give the pan a gentle shake, 30–45 minutes. Remove to a cooling rack and let cool for 1 hour, then cover and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight, until firm and cold.
Gently loosen the sides of the cheesecake with a thin knife or offset spatula, and use the parchment paper handles to carefully lift the cheesecake out of the pan and onto a cutting board. Fill a pitcher with hot tap water and have some paper towels handy, or an old (but clean) dishtowel that you don’t mind getting stained. With a large, sharp chef’s knife dipped in the hot water and wiped completely dry between each cut, cut the cheesecake into bars.
Place each bar in a paper muffin liner if you like, arrange on a platter, and top with a pistachio, a halved raspberry and a blueberry. Cover and chill until needed. The bars are best within a day or two of baking when the crust is crisp, but extras store well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 4 days.
MEYER LEMON BARS WITH VANILLA-ALMOND CRUST
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, MILLET}
Few baked goods get me grumpy like a bad lemon bar. At their worst, the crust is pale, bland and pasty. The topping is often a thin, gummy gel of overcooked curd. Since lemon curd needs sugar to help it set, the whole thing can be unbearably sweet to boot. These bars, on the other hand, boast a buttery-crisp crust laced with almond flour and vanilla, with a bit of added flavor from millet and vanilla bean seeds. A creamy, softly set topping bursts with the sunny flavor of Meyer lemons, a tangerine-lemon hybrid that grows abundantly throughout California. Meyers have a thinner, brighter skin that smells like flowers and sunshine, and their plentiful juice tastes sweeter than that of regular (Eureka) lemons. If you’re Meyer-less, I’ve included a version of these bars made with regular lemon and orange juices below. And if you’re lucky enough to possess a fresh bergamot, its zest and juice will make for the most fragrant lemon bars you’ve ever tasted.
Do note that the soft topping means that these bars need to be kept refrigerated, and be sure to allow a few hours for the initial chilling before cutting and serving the bars. You will need approximately 5 large Meyer lemons for this recipe.
MAKES 16 SMALL BUT RICH BARS
CRUST
½ cup (60 g) almond flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) millet flour
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean (or 1 tsp vanilla extract)
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
5 tbsp (70 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
LEMON CURD
8 tbsp (113 g) cool, unsalted butter, in ½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
2½ tsp (10 g) firmly packed finely grated Meyer lemon zest (from 2–3 large Meyer lemons)
1 cup plus 2 tbsp (225 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
¾ cup plus 2 tbsp (205 ml) strained Meyer lemon juice (from 4–5 large Meyer lemons)
Powdered sugar, for dusting (optional)
To make the crust, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossed pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil, leaving an overhang on each side. This will help you lift the bars out of the pan after baking, making cutting easier.
In the bowl of a food processor, whizz together the almond, sweet rice and millet flours with the vanilla bean seeds, sugar, salt and cold butter until it begins to form large clumps, about 30 seconds. Dump the crumbs into the lined baking pan and pack it firmly and evenly with your hands or a flat-bottomed glass. Bake the crust until light golden all over and toasty smelling, 20–25 minutes. Use the back of a spoon to press the crust down firmly; this will help it hold together when the bars are cut.
Decrease the oven temperature to 325°F (165°C).
To make the curd, set a mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl or large measuring cup and set aside. Place the cool diced butter and lemon zest in a small bowl and set aside.
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the sugar, eggs and egg yolks to combine. Whisk in the lemon juice. Place the pot over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof silicone spatula, until the mixture thickens slightly and reaches 160°F (71°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 5–10 minutes. As you stir, be sure to scrape the entire bottom and corners of the pan, so that the mixture heats as evenly as possible. It will start out thick and cloudy from the undissolved sugar, then will turn thin and translucent and finally begin to thicken and turn cloudy again as the eggs cook. If the mixture starts to curdle or bubble, immediately remove it from the heat and proceed to the next step.
Immediately pour the curd through the strainer and into the bowl to stop the cooking. Whisk in the butter pieces and zest until combined.
Pour the cooked curd over the warm, baked crust. Bake the bars until the sides are barely puffed and the center wobbles like firm Jell-O when you give it a gentle shake, 18–25 minutes. It should not be wet or watery looking (underbaked), nor should it be puffed in the center or cracking (overbaked). Remove the bars from the oven and let cool for about 30 minutes, then chill until firm, 2–3 hours.
Grasp the parchment and lift the bars from the pan and onto a cutting board; peel away the sides of the parchment. Trim away the outer edges of the bars, then use a large chef’s knife to cut the bar into 16 squares, wiping the blade clean between cuts. Just before serving, dust the tops with a bit of powdered sugar.
The bars keep well, refrigerated, for up to 3 days, though the crust is the crispiest within the first 1–2 days.
VARIATIONS
BERGAMOT AND MEYER LEMON BARS
Fresh bergamots are becomin
g easier to find in specialty grocers when they come into season during the winter months, and their zest and juice make for a spectacularly unique lemon bar.
Use 1½ teaspoons (5 g) lemon zest and ½ teaspoon bergamot zest. Use ¾ cup (180 ml) Meyer lemon juice and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) bergamot juice. Make the recipe as instructed.
NO-MEYER LEMON BARS
A mix of orange juice and zest added to regular lemon juice and zest makes superb lemon bars, for those who don’t have Meyers readily available. Do be sure to use freshly squeezed juice from regular (Eureka) lemons and a Valencia or navel orange.
Omit the Meyer lemon zest and juice, using instead 1 teaspoon each lemon and orange zests, ½ cup (120 ml) lemon juice, and ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 ml) orange juice.
SWEET POTATO BOURBON CHEESECAKE BITES WITH MESQUITE-PECAN CRUST
{SORGHUM, SWEET RICE, MESQUITE }
Mesquite’s uniquely warm, earthy flavor pairs seamlessly with roasted sweet potatoes and freshly grated nutmeg, all rolled up in these dainty cheesecake bites. Keeping with the Southern theme, I add a splash of bourbon to the filling, and pecans and sorghum flour to the crust, which, when baked, reminds me of really amazing graham crackers. They make an ideal treat for holiday parties and potlucks. In fact, the nutmegy filling reminds me a little of eggnog crossed with pumpkin pie. These are deceptively simple to make, as the crust and filling can both be done in a food processor, with the sour cream whipped just before serving. Do be sure to allow a few hours for the bars to chill in the fridge to a sliceable consistency. They keep well for up to 3 days; in fact, they just seem to get better and better.
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) SQUARE CHEESECAKE, 25 BITE-SIZED SERVINGS
CRUST
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) sorghum flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (35 g) mesquite flour
½ cup (55 g) pecan halves
6 tbsp (70 g) packed organic light brown sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
5 tbsp (70 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
FILLING
1 cup (235 ml) packed roasted sweet potato flesh (see Notes)
8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
½ cup (100 g) packed organic light brown sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp packed freshly grated nutmeg
2 large eggs
2 tbsp (30 ml) sour cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp (30 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)
TOPPING
½ cup (120 ml) sour cream
½ cup (120 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp (10 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)
A handful toasted pecans, for garnish
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan—or a 9-inch (23-cm) pan for slightly thinner bars—with a large piece of parchment paper or heavy-duty aluminum foil, leaving a 1-inch (2-cm) overhang on every side.
To make the crust, in the bowl of a food processor, whizz together the sorghum, sweet rice and mesquite flours with the pecans, brown sugar, salt and butter until it begins to clump together and looks like damp sand, about 30 seconds. Dump the crumbs into the lined baking pan and pack it firmly and evenly with your hands or a flat-bottomed glass. (No need to wash the food processor bowl—you’ll use it again in the next step.) Bake the crust until golden and toasty smelling, 15–20 minutes.
Decrease the oven temperature to 325°F (165°C).
Meanwhile, to make the filling, in the bowl of the food processor, puree the sweet potato smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl a few times. Add the cream cheese and puree smooth, then blend in the brown sugar, salt and nutmeg, pulsing until just smooth and combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl a few times. Add the eggs one at a time, pulsing until just combined after each addition. (Be careful not to overwork the cream cheese—doing so can break down the proteins and cause the mixture to become thin and watery.) Add the sour cream, vanilla and bourbon, pulsing to just combine. Remove the blade from the bowl, and give the mixture a final stir with a flexible spatula to make sure it’s thoroughly combined.
Spread the cheesecake batter evenly over the hot crust and rap the pan on the counter a few times to pop any large air bubbles. Place the cheesecake in the oven on the lower rack. Bake for 25–35 minutes, until the sides are gently puffed and the cheesecake is set when you give it a shake. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the center should register 165°F–170°F (74°C–76°C). Let cool completely, then chill until firm, at least 3 hours and up to 1 day.
To cut the bars, grab the parchment paper handles and pull the whole thing out of the pan and onto a cutting board; it’s okay if the crust cracks a little. Peel away the sides of the parchment. Use a large, sharp chef’s knife, wiped clean after each cut, to trim away the edges, then cut the cheesecake into 25 squares. Cover and chill until ready to serve.
To make the topping, in a large bowl with a balloon whisk (or with a handheld blender or stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment), whip together the sour cream, heavy cream and sugar until it holds soft peaks. Add the vanilla and bourbon, and whip until it holds soft peaks again.
Serve small squares of the cheesecake topped with dollops of the whipped cream and pecan pieces.
NOTES
• To roast the sweet potatoes, place 2 medium garnet or jewel sweet potatoes on a small, rimmed baking sheet, prick them a few times with the tines of a fork and bake them in a 375°F (190°C) oven until very soft when squeezed with a pair of tongs, about 45 minutes. Let cool completely, then scoop the flesh out of the skin and into a measuring cup. (Extra sweet potato is delicious warm with a dollop of sour cream—a little treat for the baker.)
• If you or your cheesecake biters are highly sensitive to trace amounts of gluten, be sure to source a GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie). Otherwise, I like a tipple of Bulleit bourbon here. You can also leave off the booze altogether, or substitute GF brandy or dark or spiced rum.
BASICS AND ACCOMPANIMENTS
Sauces and toppings can take a dessert from good to amazing. Here are a few favorites that are a snap to make at home, as well as some DIY guidelines for turning out thick crème fraîche, potent vanilla extract and perfectly browned butter. Caramel is demystified with a few easy techniques that thwart crystallization. Making ice cream at home is as simple as churning a basic stirred custard in an ice cream maker; frozen yogurt is even simpler. And you’ll never accidentally overwhip cream again with one simple trick. Read on!
HOW TO BROWN BUTTER
Brown butter, called beurre noisette in French for its hazelnut-like flavor, is simply butter that’s been cooked until the milk solids caramelize. I like to add vanilla bean to the mix; as it cooks, it gives off the intoxicating aroma of baking cookies, and it adds incredible depth of flavor to anything you put it in. The first time I browned butter, I burned butter. So here’s a bit of instruction to keep that from happening to you. Each recipe will have its own quantities, so none are given here.
Butter (see individual recipes)
Vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped (see individual recipes)
Place the butter and vanilla pod and scrapings in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Place the pan over medium-low heat and cook, swirling occasionally, to melt the butter. Continue cooking the butter. After 3–5 minutes, the butter will foam up, turn golden and smell nutty, with brown flecks mingling with black vanilla bean seeds on the bottom of the pan. It may be hard to see the color of the butter beneath the foam and in the pan, so if you’re unsure, spoon a little of the butter into a white, heatproof bowl; it should be golden in color and the milk solids on the bottom of the pan should be chestnut brown from caramelization, with black specks fr
om the vanilla bean. The butter should smell so delicious that you could eat your own arm from hunger. At this point, remove the pan from the heat and immediately pour the butter into a heatproof measuring cup to stop the cooking. When ready to use, remove the vanilla bean and discard. Brown butter can be cooled and refrigerated airtight for up to a week or two.
NOTE: If you don’t have vanilla beans on hand, leave the vanilla out of the browning butter and add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract for every bean called for to the batter or dough with other liquid ingredients.
VANILLA EXTRACT
I pity the fool who utters the phrase “plain vanilla” in my presence. Vanilla is truly one of the more exotic flavorings that we have access to. It takes months to grow a single seedpod from the tropical vanilla orchid, and each pod must be harvested by hand and undergo a lengthy curing process. Vanilla beans are costly when purchased in single form at most grocers, but they can be ordered in bulk for a vastly lower price. (See Sources, I save the pods to stick in a jar of alcohol (inexpensive brandy is my favorite) to make an ongoing batch of vanilla extract. I’m not very scientific about it, but I wanted to share my method here.
Inexpensive neutral-tasting alcohol (such as brandy, vodka or rum)
Vanilla beans
Put some booze in a bottle or canning jar; I usually use a 1-quart (1-L) jar as I go through a lot of beans, but you may wish to start smaller if you have only a few beans. Split a few vanilla beans lengthwise and add them to the jar to get this party started. When you end up with a stray vanilla pod, or one that you’ve steeped in a custard or brown butter, rinse it, let it dry and add it to the jar. Keep doing this, adding more booze to cover the beans if you need, and storing the jar in a dark place, such as a cupboard, for several months. Give it a shake occasionally when you think of it. When the liquid turns a dark brown after a few months, it’s ready to use. Strain some of the liquid off and place it in a small bottle to use in your baking. Top off the jar with more booze. Continue this process indefinitely. After a few years, your beans will be spent of their flavor and you’ll want to start the process over, decanting the extract and discarding the spent beans, to make room for fresh beans.
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