When it comes to choosing a stock or broth in which to simmer the tōfu and vegetables, there seems to be little consensus. Some versions, such as this Celebration Hot Pot I offer are shōjin (temple vegetarian) and depend upon drawing deep flavor from kombu (kelp) and dried shiitaké mushrooms. Other versions make use of dried scallops, chicken, herring, sardines, or bonito fish.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
4 cups Sankai Dashi (Kelp and Dried Shiitaké Stock) made with 2 large dried shiitaké, setting aside the softened caps
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
6 to 8 ounces of root and tuber vegetables (a combination of carrot, daikon, and lotus root cut ichō-giri style, and burdock root (gobō), cut sasagaki style
Pinch of salt
Splash of saké
2 to 3 teaspoons mirin, plus more as needed
2 to 3 teaspoons usukuchi shōyu (light-colored soy sauce)
2 tsuto tōfu “sausages,” each cut into 10 or 12 slices
Slice the softened mushroom caps into 6 or 8 wedges each.
Heat a deep heavy skillet over medium-high heat and drizzle in the sesame oil. When the oil becomes aromatic, add the mushrooms, daikon, lotus and/or burdock root (hold off on the carrots; they will be added later). Stir-fry to coat the vegetables with oil. Add a pinch of salt; jiggle the skillet to distribute. Add a splash of saké to deglaze any browning bits, then add the stock. Stir and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. If froth forms on the surface or around the rim of the pot, skim it away. When the root vegetables are tender (test with a toothpick inserted into the thickest section of a chunk; there should be little or no resistance), add the carrots and cook for 5 minutes. As new froth appears, skim away.
Season the broth with 2 teaspoons each of mirin and usukuchi shōyu and cook for 1 minute. Taste, and adjust with more mirin and soy sauce, if necessary. Add the tsuto tōfu pieces to the pot and simmer for another 2 or 3 minutes to allow them to absorb the flavor of the broth. Serve hot.
Straw-Wrapped, Brine-Simmered Tōfu
TSUTO TŌFU
The Japanese mindset of mottenai (“nothing goes to waste”) evidences itself in many ways. In rice-farming communities, the no-waste approach includes a variety of uses for wara, the straw that is a by-product of harvesting rice: zōri sandals, mino rain capes, and warabuki yané thatched rooftops. In a culinary context, rice straw is used to wrap food—perhaps the best-known item is nattō (fermented soybeans). A health-promoting bacterium that naturally lives in the straw, nattō-kin, is responsible for producing nattō’s distinctive (heady) aroma and (sticky) texture. Wara is also used to wrap tōfu before simmering it in salted water to make a sausage-like dish called tsuto tōfu. Although tsuto tōfu is not unique to the Tohoku, Fukushima’s Aizu district is known for its stews and hot pots that include tsuto tōfu as an ingredient. Tsuto, by the way, means “straw-wrapped bundle.”
Brine-simmering tōfu after wrapping it in straw has many advantages: the straw imparts a subtle grassy aroma, the brine makes tōfu more porous (and therefore better able to absorb other flavors), less likely to crumble, and it extends tōfu’s otherwise short shelf life. For those who have chosen to consume only plant-based foods, you will find thick slices of tsuto tōfu dipped in wasabi-spiked soy sauce a terrific (meatless) beer or saké nibble.
The classic method for preparing tsuto tōfu calls for wrapping the tōfu in rice straw. But, unless you or someone you know farms rice, it is unlikely you can source it. Alternatively, you can use 2 takénokawa (dried bamboo leaves), 2 sudaré (slatted bamboo mat), 2 oni sudaré (monster mat with deep ridges), 2 (10-inch-square) sheets of heavy-duty cooking parchment, or 2 banana leaves or sets of corn husks, which was suggested to me by my (wonderfully creative!) volunteer recipe testers.
MAKES 2 “SAUSAGES,” EACH YIELDING ABOUT 10 (¾-INCH) SLICES
1 block firm tōfu (momen-dōfu), about 14 ounces, drained of packing liquid
5 to 6 cups water
½ teaspoon salt
Slice the tōfu in half lengthwise. Each rectangular piece will be used to make one sausage. In a shallow pot or deep skillet that is wide enough to hold both mats (or bundles of bamboo leaf or parchment-wrapped tōfu) side-by-side in a single layer, combine the water and salt to make brine. Set the pot on your stove and bring the brine to a simmer as your shape your sausages.
Set up your mats, leaves, or pieces of parchment next to each other on your kitchen work surface. It is easiest to make both sausages simultaneously. If you are using bamboo mats, line each mat with a piece of cloth. The Japanese use a fine woven muslin called sarashi, but you can use a lint-free kitchen towel or several layers of cheesecloth. If you are using bamboo leaves, be sure to wipe each leaf on the smooth, speckle-free side, with a clean, damp sponge. If you are using parchment paper, spread out two pieces next to each other.
Place a single rectangular piece of tōfu on each rolling setup. As you place the tōfu, apply gentle pressure to crumble it slightly. You want to introduce irregularities in shape and consistency. If you are using bamboo mats, flip the cloth over the tōfu to cover it lightly, then roll as you would to make sushi rolls or a jellyroll cake. Tie each of the rolls closed with kitchen twine at both ends. If you are using bamboo leaves, flip the ends in toward the center to cover the tōfu, tapered end on top. Apply gentle pressure to reshape the mass into a log. Tie each of the rolls closed with kitchen twine at both ends. If you are using heavy-duty cooking parchment, flip and roll to encase the tōfu as though you were making a jelly-roll cake. Snugly twist the ends closed: don’t be afraid of mashing the tōfu a bit; an irregular log shape is fine. Secure the ends with tightly tied twine.
Place your rolls in the simmering brine. Raise the heat slightly to bring the brine to a steady but not especially vigorous boil. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes (the longer time for parchment-encased tōfu; the simmering liquid does not circulate as easily as cloth or mat-covered rolls). It is best to use an otoshi-buta, a dropped wooden lid that sits directly on the simmering tōfu rolls; it will ensure they stay submerged as they cook.
Remove the rolls with tongs or long chopsticks. When they are cool enough to handle comfortably (about 10 minutes), remove the strings, unroll the tōfu sausages, and place them in a bowl of fresh cold water.
If you are not using them right away, refrigerate in fresh cold water to cover for up to 4 days (change the water daily). When you are ready to use them, drain and slice.
RICE STRAW (WARA)
If you are able to obtain real rice straw, from either a farmer or, more likely, by purchasing artisan-made, straw-wrapped nattō, you can use the straw to make classic tsuto tōfu. Nattō leaves a tacky, sticky film on the straw that needs to be rinsed away, however, before the straw can be used. Soak the straw in warm brine for 10 minutes. Rinse the straw in fresh cold water and lightly scrub with a bottlebrush. Set to drip-dry before using to wrap the tōfu.
BANANA LEAVES AND CORN HUSKS
Other food cultures use the different food wrappers that nature provides: banana leaves (Thai and other Southeast Asian cuisines) and corn husks (Mexican and other Central and South American cuisines). I am indebted to several of my creative-thinking volunteer recipe testers for suggesting these alternatives. Each works well, and each provides a slightly different aroma to the final tōfu sausage.
Fish Sausage Patties
SASA KAMABOKO
Good kamaboko (fish sausage) is all about texture. For the Japanese, that means a certain degree of danryoku or “springiness,” a texture that remains largely unappreciated in Western food cultures, unless you’re speaking of chewing gum.
Sasa kamaboko can be served piping hot (and slightly puffed up) from the grill, at room temperature (it deflates as it cools), or chilled (the outer “crust” may separate a bit from the center when you slice through). Soy sauce, with either wasabi (horseradish) or mustard to mix in it, is served on the side. Mayonnaise is also served, especially in home settings. A popular beer snack, it’s also tasty paired wi
th saké.
Reading through the recipe you may be tempted to reduce the amount of salt. Do not. Proportion (of salt to fish flesh) is critical to success, as is the timing of when to add it. Sugar is needed to balance the quantity of salt. For superior results, use a food processor fitted with a metal blade.
MAKES 8 SMALL SAUSAGE PATTIES; SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER
8 ounces mild-flavored fish fillet, such as cod, flounder, halibut, shark (or a combination of these), skinned
1 egg white (about 2 tablespoons)
1½ teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons saké
1 scant teaspoon kosher salt (2 percent of the fish, by weight)
2 scant teaspoons sugar (4 percent of the fish, by weight)
Begin by trimming away any bones, scales, or other unwanted matter from the fillets. Cut the fish into small chunks and place them in a bowl of ice water. Soak for 1 hour. This will remove excess oil and any unwanted odor. Drain, blot dry with paper towels, and put the fish pieces in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse in short spurts, scraping down the sides as needed to get the mixture of an even consistency. Do not be concerned with the lack of cohesiveness at this stage. As soon as the salt is added and absorbed, chemical “magic” will change that.
Add the egg white, cornstarch, and saké. Pulse to incorporate completely. The mixture should now be somewhat loose but smooth (think thick cake batter). Add the salt and process continuously for 20 seconds; the mixture will come together as a mass. Add the sugar and pulse until all the fish is caught in the mass, about 7 or 8 seconds. Carefully remove the fish paste from the processor bowl.
With hands dipped in a bowl of water, divide the fish paste mixture into 8 small portions. With damp hands, shape each of the portions of fish paste into a flat oval about the size of your palm, then coax one end to a point. With a dull butter knife (or the back of a sharp knife), trace a line down the center. The Japanese word sasa means “young bamboo leaf,” and this shape (pointed oval with rib down the center) is thought to resemble it (it may look more like an arrowhead to you).
The sausage patties can be grilled or broiled. If you are grilling outdoors, grill over low embers. If you are using an indoor broiler unit or salamander, set it to the lowest setting possible. If you are using a toaster oven, line the tray with foil to make removal and cleanup easier. Place the patties 2 inches from the flame or heat source. Broil or grill for 3 minutes.
The sausage patties will begin to puff and color lightly. Flip the patties and continue to cook for another 3 to 4 minutes.
When the patties are golden brown with just a few darker streaks—what the Japanese call kistuné iro or “fox colored”—remove from the heat. Because of the high salt and sugar content, the sausages will scorch easily and must be monitored carefully.
Slicing sasa kamaboko patties slightly on the diagonal will make eating them with chopsticks easier.
FISH SAUSAGES
Many food cultures enjoy sausage made from kitchen scraps—bits and pieces of meat or fish salvaged from other dishes. In a food culture such as Japan’s, which is based on the sea, it’s not surprising that fish sausages are plentiful. Suri, from the verb suru (“to grind” or “to mash”), and mi (literally “flesh”) combine to describe the basic paste—surimi—from which various dumplings and sausages are made.
Sometimes the surimi is formed into a loaf and steamed (most kamaboko is of this sort), sometimes fried (Satsuma agé, named after the port in Kyushu where this type is thought to have originated), sometimes grilled, as it is in this recipe. Most grilled fish sausages are called chikuwa, literally “bamboo pole,” and are formed into cylinders—the fish paste molded around the outside of a bamboo pole leaves a hollow center when removed. But Sendai’s pride, sasa kamaboko is different—it is a flat, tapered fish sausage patty resembling the young bamboo leaves (sasa) that adorn the Daté Clan’s family crest. Regional ruler Daté Masamuné (September 5, 1567, to June 27, 1636) is credited with establishing the city of Sendai.
Miso-Seared Scallops
HOTATÉ NO MISO YAKI
The Tohoku’s fishing industry has been hit hard. Oyster and scallop beds along the Sanriku coast of Miyagi and Iwate were physically destroyed by earthquake and tsunami and environmentally harmed by the nuclear accident. The economic impact of this damage is huge. It will be a long and difficult road to recovery.
Prior to the Disaster, the Sanriku had developed a winning repertoire of dishes showcasing the region’s fabulous, impeccably fresh seafood. This scallop recipe—one that you can recreate with seafood locally available to you—celebrates the delightful pairing of pungent Sendai miso with ocean-sweet, silky textured scallops. Enjoy!
SERVES 2 AS A MAIN COURSE, 4 AS AN APPETIZER.
12 meaty, sashimi-quality scallops, about 10 ounces total, freshly shucked
Saké, for rinsing
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
¼ cup Neri Miso (Stirred Miso Sauce)
Lime or lemon wedges
Dip the scallops quickly in cold water, then immediately rinse in saké. Pat the scallops dry with paper towels. This dip-and-rinse procedure ensures that no bits of shell, or bacteria, cling to the scallop meats. This can be done when you first bring the scallops into your kitchen after purchasing them. If you will not be cooking them immediately, cover and refrigerate (for up to 4 hours).
Pour the sesame oil into a skillet large enough to hold the scallops in a single layer. Heat over high heat until the oil is very aromatic, but not smoking. Place the scallops in the skillet and let them sear, undisturbed, for about 1 minute, until lightly crusted. The meat near the bottom crusted edge will gradually become opaque. Jiggle the skillet to see if the scallops come loose. If not, slide a spatula underneath to nudge the scallops free. Flip the scallops, and scrape up any browned bits.
Place a spoonful of the neri miso sauce on top of each scallop. Flip the scallops so that the surface with miso sauce is now face down, in the skillet. A wonderful aroma will waft up. Lower the heat to avoid scorching and allow the scallops to cook for another 40 seconds, until the meat is firm when pressed lightly.
Remove from the stove and serve miso side up on light-colored dishes for the most dramatic visual effect. Scrape up any miso left in the skillet and add it to the miso-topped scallops. Garnish with lime or lemon wedges.
Squid Jerky and Carrot Strips
IKA NINJIN
Ocean-rinsed, air-dried fish and seafood jerky is part of the culinary heritage of the Tohoku, in much the same way that beef jerky is historically linked to America’s pioneering west. Indeed, if you find the (frankly) funky flavor and aroma of dried squid a bit much, you might try either of the variations I offer in the sidebars: one uses beef jerky, the other burdock root.
Ika ninjin is a classic Tohoku dish, enjoyed from late autumn through the New Year holidays. In Fukushima, ika ninjin finds its way into jūbako (multilayered, stacked lacquered boxes) displays (see photo).
MAKES 1 GENEROUS CUP; SERVES 4 TO 6 AS AN APPETIZER
1½ cups water
½ cup thinly shredded dried squid (shred across the grain) (about 1 ounce)
1 cup julienned carrot strips (about 4 ounces)
MARINADE
¼ cup regular soy sauce
2 teaspoons packed dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons saké
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
½ dried hot red chili (tōgarashi), seeds removed
Bring the water to a rolling boil in a small pot. Add the squid strips, stir to ensure all have been briefly submerged in the scalding hot liquid and continue to cook until the water returns to a boil (less than 1 minute). Remove the pot from the stove and add the carrot strips. Stir to be sure all are submerged in the scalding water and let them sit for about 45 seconds (they will wilt ever so slightly). Strain the squid and carrot strips, reserving the liquid in a heat-resistant glass jar. This flavor-packed broth will be used shortly. Do not refresh the squid and/or carrots in cold wate
r. Do not rinse out the pot; it will be used to make the marinade and lingering flavor from the blanching will add to, not detract from, the final flavor.
Transfer the drained squid and carrots to a nonreactive container, one that has a tight-fitting lid. Glazed ceramic ware, enamel-lined metal (what the Japanese call horo ware), or glass (mason jar) is best. Avoid metal or plastic.
To make the marinade, combine the soy sauce, brown sugar, and saké in the same pot you used to blanch the squid and carrots. Return the pot to the stove over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pot from the stove once the sugar has melted. Add the vinegar, chili, and 1 tablespoon of strained broth and stir. Pour the marinade over the drained squid and carrots, jiggling to make a flat layer barely covered with marinade. If need be, add more broth to barely cover the squid and carrots. To ensure that the food is completely moistened throughout the marinating process, it is best to cover with a layer of cheesecloth or sturdy paper towel (the cloth or towel soaking in marinade will become stained). If you have a piece of kombu left from stock making that could also be used as a lid.
Kibo ( Brimming With Hope ): Recipes and Stories From Japan's Tohoku Page 4
