SushikuniJAPANESE¥¥
(鮨國 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3545-8234; 4-14-15 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; seafood rice bowls from ¥3000; h10am-3pm & 5-9pm Thu-Tue; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exit 1)
Specialising in bowls of sushi rice topped with seafood, this low-key spot is the place to indulge in the freshest of melt-in-the-mouth uni (sea urchin) and the salty pop of ikura (salmon roe) straight from the market. It's also open in the evenings.
Yūrakuchō Sanchoku InshokugaiJAPANESE¥¥
(有楽町産直飲食街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sanchoku-inshokugai.com/yurakucho; International Arcade, 2-1-1 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; cover charge per person ¥400, dishes from ¥500; h24hr; dJR Yamanote line to Yūrakuchō, Yūrakuchō exit)
Stalls dishing up yakitori (charcoal-grilled meat or vegetable skewers) have long huddled under the tracks here. This red-lantern-lit alleyway is a modern collective, which sticks to the cheap, cheerful and smoky formula, but uses quality ingredients sourced direct from producers around the country. Sample steak from Hokkaidō and seafood from Shizuoka.
Yūrakuchō Sanchoku Inshokugai | ANDRES GARCIA MARTIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
MaruJAPANESE¥¥
(銀座圓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5537-7420; www.maru-mayfont.jp/ginza; 2nd fl, Ichigo Ginza 612 Bldg, 6-12-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1100/4800; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A3)
Maru offers a contemporary take on kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) fine dining. The chefs are young and inventive and the appealing space is dominated by a long, wooden, open kitchen counter across which you can watch them work. Its good-value lunches offer a choice of mainly fish dishes.
Maru's Harajuku branch is only open for dinner.
oKyūbeySUSHI¥¥¥
(久兵衛 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3571-6523; www.kyubey.jp; 8-7-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥4000/10,000; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to Shimbashi, exit 3)
Since 1936, Kyūbey’s quality and presentation has won it a moneyed and celebrity clientele. Even so, this is a supremely foreigner-friendly and relaxed restaurant. The friendly owner Imada-san speaks excellent English as do some of his team of talented chefs, who will make and serve your sushi, piece by piece.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oTurret CoffeeCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://ja-jp.facebook.com/turretcoffee; 2-12-6 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exit 2)
Kawasaki Kiyoshi set up his plucky indie coffee shop next to Starbucks. It takes its name from the three-wheeled delivery trucks that beetle around Tsukiji Market – there's one on the premises. Ideal for an early-morning espresso en route to or from the outer market area.
oCafe de l'AmbreCAFE
(カフェ・ド・ランブル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3571-1551; www.h6.dion.ne.jp/~lambre; 8-10-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; coffee from ¥650; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; dGinza line to Ginza, exit A4)
The sign over the door here reads 'Coffee Only' but, oh, what a selection. Sekiguchi Ichiro started the business in 1948 and – remarkably at the age of 100 – still runs it himself, sourcing and roasting aged beans from all over the world. It's dark, retro and classic Ginza.
oCha GinzaTEAHOUSE
(茶・銀座 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3571-1211; www.uogashi-meicha.co.jp/shop/ginza; 5-5-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-5pm, shop to 6pm Tue-Sun; bGinza line to Ginza, exit B3)
At this slick contemporary tea room, it costs ¥800 for either a cup of perfectly prepared matcha (green tea) and a small cake or two, or for a choice of sencha (premium green tea). Buy your token for tea at the shop on the ground floor, which sells top-quality teas from various growing regions in Japan.
Bistro MarxCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6280-6234; www.thierrymarx.jp; 7th fl, Ginza Place, 5-8-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-11pm, bar to 2am; W; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)
As well as French chef Thierry Marx' restaurant here, there's his casual bistro-bar where the outdoor terrace has a dress-circle view across to Ginza's iconic Wako department store. It's a fancy spot for an afternoon coffee and dessert above the throng, or a romantic setting for a drink later at night when it morphs into a bar.
JugetsudoTEAHOUSE
(寿月堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6278-7626; www.jugestudo.fr; 5th fl, Kabuki-za Tower, 4-12-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-5.30pm; bHibiya line to Higashi-Ginza, exit 3)
This venerable tea seller's main branch is closer to Tsukiji, but this classy outlet in the Kabuki-za Tower has a Kengo Kuma–designed cafe where you can sample the various Japanese green teas, including matcha, along with food. Book for its tea-tasting experience (¥4000), which covers four different types of tea and runs from 10am to noon.
KagayaPUB
(加賀屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3591-2347; http://kagayayy.sakura.ne.jp; B1 fl, Hanasada Bldg, 2-15-12 Shimbashi, Minato-ku; h7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shimbashi, Shimbashi exit)
It is safe to say that there is no other bar owner in Tokyo who can match Mark Kagaya for brilliant lunacy. His side-splitting antics are this humble izakaya's star attraction although his mum's nourishing home cooking also hits the spot. Bookings are essential.
Town House TokyoGAY
(タウンハウス東京 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3289-8558; http://townhousetokyo.web.fc2.com; 6th fl, Koruteire Ginza Bldg, 1-11-5 Shimbashi, Minato-ku; cover incl 1 drink from ¥1000; h6pm-midnight, to 4am Fri; bGinza line to Shimbashi, exit 3)
This long-running joint is friendly to gaijin (foreigners; literally ‘outside people’) and has been serving a wide-ranging crowd for years. It provides plenty of space and even a long balcony for a breather. It has karaoke on Fridays and the occasional underwear-only party on Saturday.
WORTH A DETOUR
TSUKUDA-JIMA & TSUKISHIMA
Where Harumi-dōri meets Kachidoki-bashi, there's a pleasant riverside walkway that runs past St Luke's International Hospital (聖路加国際病院; Seiroka Kokusai Byōin GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3541-5151; http://hospital.luke.ac.jp; 9-1 Akashi-chō, Chūō-ku; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exits 3 & 4) to Tsukuda Ohashi (佃大橋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bŌedo line to Tsukishima, exit 6). Across this bridge, on the left side, is Tsukuda-jima (Island of Cultivated Rice Fields), a charming neighbourhood with traditional shops such as Tenyasu Honten (天安本店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3531-3457; http://tenyasu.jp; 1-3-14 Tsukuda, Chūō-ku; h9am-6pm; bTsukishima, exit 6) selling tsukudani (seafood, seaweed and meat preserved in a mixture of soy sauce, salt and sugar). There's also a small, old Shintō shrine, Sumiyoshi-jinja (住吉神社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3531-3500; 1-1-14 Tsukuda, Chūō-ku; hdawn-dusk; bŌedo line to Tsukishima, exit 6), and the attractive red-railed Tsukudako-bashi (佃小橋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bŌedo line to Tsukishima, exit 6) over a tidal inlet that is a popular filming location for TV shows and movies.
South of the Tsukuda Ohashi is Tsukishima, where the main shopping street – Monja-dōri – and the surrounding side streets are famous for their many restaurants serving the savoury dish monjayaki. Similar to the pancake okonomiyaki, monjayaki is a Tokyo original with a looser, scrambled-egg-like texture. Monja Kondō (もんじゃ近どう MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3533-4555; 3-12-10 Tsukishima, Chūō-ku; monjayaki from ¥1000; h5-10pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-10pm Sat & Sun; bŌedo line to Tsukishima, exit 8), in business since 1950, is said to be the area's oldest dedicated monja restaurant. It offers some 90 different toppings you can add to the basic mix, and the staff will help you get the hang of making monjayaki at your own table grill.
3Entertainment
oKabukizaTHEATRE
(歌舞伎座 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3545-6800; www.kabuki-bito.jp/eng; 4-12-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; tickets ¥4000-21,000, single-act tickets ¥800-2000; dHibiya line to Higashi-Ginza, exit 3)
The flamboyant facade of this venerable theatre, which was completely reconstructed in 2013 to incorporate a tower block, makes a strong impression. It is a good indication of the extravagant dramatic flourishes that are integral to the traditional performing art of
kabuki. Check the website for performance details and to book tickets; you'll also find an explanation about cheaper one-act, day seats.
A full kabuki performance comprises three or four acts (usually from different plays) over an afternoon or an evening (typically 11am to 3.30pm or 4.30pm to 9pm), with long intervals between the acts. Be sure to rent a headset (single act ¥500) for blow-by-blow explanations in English, and pick up a bentō (boxed meal) to snack on during the intervals.
If four-plus hours sounds too long, 90 sitting and 60 standing tickets are sold on the day for each single act. You'll be at the back of the auditorium but the views are still good. Some acts tend to be more popular than others, so ask ahead as to which to catch, and arrive at least 1½ hours before the start of the performance.
Tokyo Takarazuka TheatreTHEATRE
(宝塚劇場 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5251-2001; http://kageki.hankyu.co.jp/english/index.html; 1-1-3 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; tickets ¥3500-12,000; bHibiya line to Hibiya, exits A5 & A13)
If you love camp, this is for you. The all-female Takarazuka revue, going back to 1914, stages highly stylised musicals in Japanese (English synopses are available) where a mostly female audience swoons over actresses, some of whom are in drag.
It's massively popular so shows often sell out. Fear not: there are 49 standing tickets (¥1500) sold daily for each show.
7Shopping
oDover Street Market GinzaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(DSM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6228-5080; http://ginza.doverstreetmarket.com; 6-9-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-8pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)
A department store as envisioned by Kawakubo Rei (of Comme des Garçons), DSM has seven floors of avant-garde brands, including several Japanese labels and everything in the Comme des Garçons line-up. The quirky art installations alone make it worth the visit.
oAkomeyaFOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6758-0271; www.akomeya.jp; 2-2-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; hshop 11am-9pm, restaurant 11.30am-10pm; bYūrakuchō line to Ginza-itchōme, exit 4)
Rice is at the core of Japanese cuisine and drink. This stylish store sells not only many types of the grain but also products made from it (such as sake), a vast range of quality cooking ingredients and a choice collection of kitchen, home and bath items.
oTakumiARTS & CRAFTS
(たくみ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3571-2017; www.ginza-takumi.co.jp; 8-4-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to Shimbashi, exit 5)
You're unlikely to find a more elegant selection of traditional folk crafts, including toys, textiles and ceramics from around Japan. Ever thoughtful, this shop also encloses information detailing the origin and background of the pieces if you make a purchase.
oItōyaARTS & CRAFTS
(伊東屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ito-ya.co.jp; 2-7-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A13)
Nine floors (plus several more in the nearby annexe) of stationery-shop love await visual-art professionals and seekers of office accessories, with both everyday items and luxury such as fountain pens and Italian leather agendas. You'll also find washi (fine Japanese handmade paper), tenugui (beautifully hand-dyed thin cotton towels) and furoshiki (wrapping cloths).
Ginza SixMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://ginza6.tokyo; 6-10 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-10pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)
Opened in April 2017 is Ginza's largest mixed-use development dedicated to maintaining and improving the area's luxury cachet. It includes international and local top-brand shops, restaurants, a superior food hall, a 4000-sq-metre rooftop garden and the Kanze Nōgakudō, a theatre specialising in nō dramas. Digital and contemporary art will feature in the public areas.
MatsuyaDEPARTMENT STORE
(松屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3567-1211; www.matsuya.com; 3-6-1 Ginza; h10am-8pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exit 12A)
One of Ginza's top department stores is packed with designer brands. Look out for the section on the 7th floor showcasing household products chosen by the Japan Design Committee, a group of leading designers, architects and critics.
Sanrioworld GinzaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(サンリオワールド ギンザ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3566-4060; www.sanrio.co.jp/english/store/sh1703100; Nishi Ginza Department Store 4-1 Saki, Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-8.30pm Mon, Tue & Sat, to 9pm Wed-Fri, to 8pm Sun; bGinza line to Ginza, exit C5)
Sanrio's flagship store is piled high with all the Hello Kitty merchandise your heart could desire, including some pretty blinged-up items of the famous feline fashion icon.
UniqloFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(ユニクロ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.uniqlo.com; 5-7-7 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-9pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)
This now-global brand has made its name by sticking to the basics and tweaking them with style. Offering inexpensive, quality clothing, this is the Tokyo flagship store with 11 floors and items you won't find elsewhere.
MitsukoshiDEPARTMENT STORE
(三越 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mitsukoshi.co.jp; 4-6-16 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-8pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exits A7 & A11)
One of Ginza's grande dames, Mitsukoshi embodies the essence of the Tokyo department store. Don't miss the basement food hall.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
GINZA BATHHOUSE
Join salarymen and women freshening up at Komparu-yu (金春湯 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3571-5469; www002.upp.so-net.ne.jp/konparu; 8-7-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; ¥460; h2-10pm Mon-Sat; dGinza line to Shimbashi, exit 1 or 3), a simple bathhouse that's been located on a Ginza side street since 1863. Tile art includes old-school koi (carp) and the traditional Mt Fuji motifs.
2Sports & Activities
Tokyo Cooking StudioCOOKING
(東京クッキングスタジオ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://tokyo.cookingstudio.org; Hins Minato #004, 3-18-14 Minato, Chūō-ku; classes for up to 3 people from ¥30,000; bYūrakuchō line to Shintomichō, exit 7)
Genial English-speaking chef Inoue Akira is a master of soba – noodles made from nutty buckwheat flour. He's taught how to make and eat this classic Tokyo dish to chefs who have gone on to win Michelin stars for their cooking. Classes are held in a compact kitchen overlooking the Sumida River.
Tokyo Sushi AcademyCOOKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3362-2789; http://sushimaking.tokyo; 2nd fl, Tsukiji KY Bldg, 4-7-5 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; per person ¥5400; h9am-3pm Sat; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exit 1)
English-speaking sushi chefs will give you a 30-minute crash course in making the vinegared rice speciality, after which you'll have an hour in which to make (and eat) as much of your favourite type of sushi as you like. Classes are held on Saturday (and sometimes Sunday) in a modern kitchen a stone's throw from the Tsukiji Outer Market.
Tsukiji Market Information CentreWALKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3541-6521; www.tsukijitour.jp; 4-7-5 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; tour per person from ¥8800; h9am-3pm market days; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exit 2)
This popular 2½-hour tour of Tsukiji Market for a minimum of two people starts with a video and finishes up with a sushi lunch in the area. When the market moves, it will continue tours in the Outer Market area and likely include a sushi-making class at a local restaurant.
Roppongi, Akasaka & Around
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Roppongi, Akasaka & Around
Neighbourhood Top Five
1Mori Art Museum Enjoying contemporary art and Tokyo's urban panorama from this gallery that occupies the top of Mori Tower along with the observatory Tokyo City View.
221_21 Design Sight Pondering cutting-edge art, architecture and design ideas at the Andō Tadao–designed building in the park behind Tokyo Midtown.
3Zōjō-ji Walking through the massive entrance gate to this venerable temple and seeing Tokyo Tower in the background.
4National Art Center Tokyo Digging the very curvy architecture
and top-notch exhibitions at this Kurokawa Kishō–designed building.
5Hotel New Ōtani Gardens Strolling around this serene 400-year-old Japanese garden, which hides within the grounds of this 1960s hotel.
Explore Roppongi, Akasaka & Around
Long one of Tokyo’s prime nightlife districts, Roppongi has diversified over the last decade, with the successful mixed-use real-estate developments Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown bringing arts, culture and high-end shopping to the neighbourhood.
You can easily spend a day exploring the Roppongi Art Triangle, its points anchored by the Mori Art Museum, the Suntory Museum of Art and the National Art Center Tokyo. As night falls, Roppongi Crossing becomes a magnet for an international crowd of hedonistic party-goers and club touts. Head downhill towards Nishi-Azabu or Azabu-Jūban for more sophisticated dining and drinking options.
Akasaka's proximity to the National Diet, Japan’s parliament, defines it as establishment Tokyo. Attractions include Hie-jinja, an important Shintō shrine; the Hotel New Ōtani's beautiful 400-year-old garden; and the National Theatre, the state-sponsored home of traditional performing arts. Further south, in and around Shiba-kōen (Shiba Park), you can ascend or just admire the retro-glam Tokyo Tower and pace the grounds of the grand Buddhist temple Zōjō-ji.
Lonely Planet Tokyo Page 10
