3 A Favourite Izakaya
Duck down a side street and look for the white door curtains that mark the entrance to Shirube (汁べゑ GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3413-3785; 2-18-2 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku; dishes ¥730-1060; h5.30pm-midnight; v; dKeiō Inokashira line to Shimo-Kitazawa, south exit), a lively izakaya (Japanese-style pub) that is pretty much always packed. You'll want to book ahead if you've got a group or are out on a Friday or Saturday night.
4 Rock Goddess
Step into Mother (マザー GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3421-9519; www.rock-mother.com; 5-36-14 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5pm-5am Fri & Sat; dKeiō Inokashira line to Shimo-Kitazawa, south exit), classic Shimo-Kitazawa and a work of art itself. The space, with undulating, mosaic walls, is definitely womb-like (the better to incubate future rock'n'rollers); the soundtrack is '60s and '70s. Don't miss the made-in-house 'mori' liquor, served from a glass skull (drinks from ¥600).
5 Shimokita Streetscape
Azuma-dōri (東通り), with its low-slung buildings, faux stained-glass street lamps and arching street signs, contains many of the elements that make up Shimokita's charmingly retro visual identity. As you turn on to the road, look to your left for the tiny shrine, Kōshindō (庚申堂), which is lovingly kept up by anonymous residents.
6 A Classic Dive
Pretty much everything at Trouble Peach (トラブル・ピーチ GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3460-1468; 2nd fl, 2-9-18 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku; cover ¥400; h7pm-7am; dKeiō Inokashira line to Shimo-Kitazawa, south exit) is chipped, frayed or torn – and none of it is artifice. This is a well-worn and well-loved bar, open for some 40-odd years, and still playing vinyl. It looks primed for demolition but has somehow managed to survive. Look for the neon sign by the tracks. Cover ¥400; drinks from ¥500.
7 Late Night Gathering
Twinkling lights mark the entrance of late-night haunt Never Never Land (ネヴァーネヴァーランド GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, 3-19-3 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku; cover ¥200 per person; h6pm-2am; dKeiō Inokashira line to Shimo-Kitazawa, north exit), a long-running Shimokita bar that's consistently smoky, loud and filled with bohemian characters. The bar serves tasty Okinawan dishes along with beer and cocktails (food and drink from ¥500; cover charge ¥200 per person).
8 A Local Legend
The Suzunari (ザ・スズナリ) is one of the neighbourhood's landmark fringe theatres. The sprawling (and rather dilapidated) building also includes a dozen or so tiny bars, including Ghetto.
Alley in Shimo-Kitazawa | EDU VISION / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
6Drinking & Nightlife
oGhettoBAR
(月灯 GOOGLE MAP ; 1-45-16 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku; h8.30pm-late; dKeiō Inokashira line to Shimo-Kitazawa, south exit)
What are the odds that the characters for 'moon' and 'light' could be pronounced together as 'ghetto'? It's not unlike the uncommon synergy that comes together nightly as musicians, travellers, and well-intentioned salarymen (and others) descend on this little bar in the rambling Suzunari theatre complex. By open until late we mean very, very late. No cover charge; drinks from ¥600.
oGood Beer FaucetsCRAFT BEER
(グッドビアフォウセッツ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://shibuya.goodbeerfaucets.jp; 2nd fl, 1-29-1 Shōtō, Shibuya-ku; pints from ¥800; h5pm-midnight Mon-Thu & Sat, to 3am Fri, 4-11pm Sun; W; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
With 40 shiny taps, Good Beer Faucets has one of the city's best selections of Japanese craft brews and regularly draws a full house of locals and expats. The interior is chrome and concrete (and not at all grungy). Come for happy hour (5pm to 8pm Monday to Thursday, 1pm to 7pm Sunday) and get ¥200 off any pint.
ContactCLUB
(コンタクト MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6427-8107; www.contacttokyo.com; basement, 2-10-12 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; ¥2000-3500; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
This is Tokyo's newest hot spot, a stylish underground club that's keen on keeping up with the times (even if that means it's a little heavy on rules): the dance floor is no smoking and no photos (so you can dance with abandon). Weekends see big international names and a young, fashionable crowd. Under-23s get in for ¥2000. ID required.
Currently the club is 'members only', so to get in you have to sign up on the website. Look for the entrance in the back of a parking lot.
Rhythm CafeBAR
(リズムカフェ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3770-0244; http://rhythmcafe.jp; 11-1 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; h6pm-2am; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
Run by a record label, fun and funky Rhythm Cafe often draws more customers than it can fit, meaning the party spills into the street. It's known for having off-beat event nights (such as the retro Japanese pop night on the fourth Thursday of the month). Drinks start at ¥700; when DJs spin, the cover is around ¥1000.
Nonbei-yokochōBAR
(のんべえ横丁 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nonbei.tokyo; Shibuya 1-chōme, Shibuya-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
Nonbei-yokochō is one of Tokyo's anomalous – and endangered – strips of old wooden shanty bars, here in the shadow of the elevated JR tracks. There's a wonderfully eclectic assortment of teeny-tiny bars, though note that some have cover charges (usually ¥500 to ¥1000). Tight (タイト MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, 1-25-10 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) is one that doesn't.
WombCLUB
(ウーム MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5459-0039; www.womb.co.jp; 2-16 Maruyama-chō, Shibuya-ku; cover ¥1500-4000; h11pm-late Fri & Sat, 4-10pm Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
A long-time (in club years, at least) club-scene fixture, Womb gets a lot of big-name international DJs playing mostly house and techno on Friday and Saturday nights. Frenetic lasers and strobes splash across the heaving crowds, which usually jam all four floors. Weekdays are quieter, with local DJs playing EDM mix and ladies getting free entry (with flyer).
Beat CafeBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/beatcafe; basement fl, 2-13-5 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; h7pm-5am; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
Join an eclectic mix of local and international regulars at this comfortably shabby bar among the nightclubs and love hotels of Dōgenzaka. It's a known hang-out for musicians and music fans; check the website for info on parties (and after-parties). Look for Gateway Studio on the corner; the bar is in the basement. Drinks from ¥600.
Shidax VillageKARAOKE
(シダックスビレッジ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3461-9356; 1-12-13 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; per person per 30min from ¥400; h11am-5am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
Shidax is a step up from the other karaoke chains, with roomier booths and hundreds of English songs. Note that prices go up by ¥50 to ¥100 on weekends and during holidays; if you stay longer than two hours (which often happens) the 'free time' plan (フリータイム; ¥1950, until 5am) is a good deal; with nomihōdai (all-you-can-drink; 飲み放題) it's ¥4950. Nonsmoking rooms available.
3Entertainment
oWWWLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www-shibuya.jp/index.html; 13-17 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; tickets ¥2000-5000; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
In a former arthouse cinema (with the tell-tale tiered floor still intact), this is one of those rare venues where you could turn up just about any night and hear something good. The line-up varies from indie pop to punk to electronica. Upstairs is the new WWW X, with more space.
UplinkCINEMA
(アップリンク MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.uplink.co.jp; 37-18 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; adult/student ¥1800/1500; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
Watching indies at Uplink feels a bit like hanging out in a friend's basement; with just 40 (comfy, mismatched) seats, it's officially Tokyo's smallest theatre. Artsy domestic and foreign films (subtitled in Japanese), including documentaries, are screened here. Uplink is also one of the few Tokyo cinemas that screens films with a political b
ent. On weekdays students pay just ¥1100.
Setagaya Public TheatrePERFORMING ARTS
(世田谷パブリックシアター GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5432-1526; www.setagaya-pt.jp; 4-1-1 Taishidō, Setagaya-ku; tickets ¥3500-7500; dTōkyū Den-en-toshi line to Sangenjaya, Carrot Tower exit)
The best of Tokyo's public theatres, Setagaya Public Theatre puts on contemporary dramas as well as modern nō (a stylised Japanese dance-drama, performed on a bare stage) and sometimes butoh (an avant-garde form of dance). The smaller Theatre Tram shows more experimental works. Both are located inside the Carrot Tower building connected to Sangenjaya Station, a five-minute train ride from Shibuya.
Club QuattroLIVE MUSIC
(クラブクアトロ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3477-8750; www.club-quattro.com; 32-13-4 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; tickets ¥3000-4000; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
This small, intimate venue has the feel of a slick nightclub and attracts a more grown-up, artsy crowd than the club’s location – near Center-gai – might lead you to expect. Though there’s no explicit musical focus, emphasis is on rock and world music, with many an indie darling passing through.
HOT SPOT TOMIGAYA
Just a 15-minute walk away from the brash teen culture of Shibuya Center-gai, is Tomigaya, a fashionable enclave known for its bistros and cafes. Follow the Kamiyama shōtengai towards Yoyogi-kōen subway station.
Some of our favourite stops:
Camelback (キャメルバック GOOGLE MAP ; www.camelback.tokyo; 42-2 Kamiyama-chō, Shibuya-ku; sandwiches ¥410-900; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; v; bChiyoda line to Yoyogi-kōen, exit) The speciality at this sandwich counter run by a former sushi chef is tamago-yaki (the kind of rolled omelette that you get at sushi shops) served on a fluffy roll with mayonnaise and a hint of hot mustard.
Fuglen Tokyo ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fuglen.com; 1-16-11 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku; coffee from ¥360; h8am-10pm Mon & Tue, to 1am Wed-Sun; W; bChiyoda line to Yoyogi-kōen, exit 2) This Tokyo outpost of a long-running Oslo coffee shop serves Aeropress coffee by day and some of the city's most creative cocktails (from ¥1000) by night.
Shibuya Publishing Booksellers (SPBS; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shibuyabooks.co.jp; 17-3 Kamiyamachō, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Open-late hangout with a decent offering of English-language books and a fine collection of artsy, photo-heavy Japanese magazines.
7Shopping
oTokyu HandsDEPARTMENT STORE
(東急ハンズ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://shibuya.tokyu-hands.co.jp; 12-18 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; h10am-8.30pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
This DIY and zakka (miscellaneous goods) store has eight fascinating floors of everything you didn’t know you needed, including reflexology slippers, bee-venom face masks and cartoon-character-shaped rice-ball moulds. Most stuff is inexpensive, making it perfect for souvenir- and gift-hunting. Warning: you could lose hours in here.
Fake TokyoFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5456-9892; www.faketokyo.com; 18-4 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-10pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
This is one of the best places in the city to discover hot underground Japanese designers. It's actually two shops in one: downstairs is Candy, full of brash, unisex streetwear; upstairs is Sister, which specialises in more ladylike items, both new and vintage. Look for the ‘Fake Tokyo’ banners out front.
Shibuya 109FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(渋谷109; Ichimarukyū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shibuya109.jp/en/top; 2-29-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
See all those dolled-up teens walking around Shibuya? This is where they shop. Nicknamed marukyū, this cylindrical tower houses dozens of small boutiques, each with its own carefully styled look (and competing soundtrack). Even if you don’t intend to buy anything, you can’t understand Shibuya without making a stop here.
Shibuya 109 | GYRO PHOTOGRAPHY / A. COLLECTIONRF / GETTY IMAGES ©
LoftDEPARTMENT STORE
(ロフト MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3462-3807; www.loft.co.jp; 18-2 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
This emporium of homewares, stationery and accessories specialises in all that is cute and covetable. The 1st floor, which stocks seasonal stuff and gifts, is particularly ripe for souvenir-hunting.
Apparel shop, Shimokitazawa | WIENNAT M / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
REIMAGINING SHIBUYA
Shibuya is right now undergoing a massive redevelopment. Shibuya Hikarie (渋谷ヒカリエ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hikarie.jp; 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, east exit), completed in 2012, was just the first of several planned towers. By the time you read this, Shibuya Station South District (projected completion: 2018) and East Tower (projected completion: 2019) might already be open. Also in the works are a revitalisation of the Shibuya-gawa (currently mostly cloaked in concrete). The 11th-floor 'Sky Lobby' of Shibuya Hikarie has a scale model of what Shibuya will look like when everything is completed in 2027; there are good views from here, too.
2Sports & Activities
Purikura no MeccaARCADE
(プリクラのメッカ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3rd fl, 29-1 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; purikura ¥400; h24hr; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
It's easy to see why teens get sucked into the cult of purikura ('print club', aka photo booths): the digitally enhanced photos automatically airbrush away blemishes and add doe eyes and long lashes for good measure (so you come out looking like an anime version of yourself). After primping and posing, decorate the images on screen with touch pens.
Note that all-guy groups aren't allowed in.
Shibuya Center-gai | SEAN PAVONE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Harajuku & Aoyama
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Harajuku & Aoyama
Neighbourhood Top Five
1Meiji-jingū Leaving the city behind as you pass through the towering cedar torii (gate), which marks the entrance to the abode of the gods, and following the wooded, gravel path to Tokyo’s most impressive Shintō shrine.
2Omote-sandō Gawking at the contemporary architecture, the work of Japan's leading architects, and the eyebrow-raising consumerism along this wide, tree-lined boulevard.
3Yoyogi-kōen Stretching out on the grassy lawn or catching a food festival at the city's most popular park, which buzzes with life on weekends.
4Takeshita-dōri Scouting new looks while strolling through Harajuku's famous teen fashion bazaar.
5Nezu Museum Retreating into the calm galleries and gardens of this excellent antiquities museum.
Explore Harajuku & Aoyama
Harajuku is a neighbourhood that rewards an early start: grab a coffee at Little Nap Coffee Stand and walk through Yoyogi-kōen to the shrine, Meiji-jingū – you'll beat the crowds this way. Then make your way up Omote-sandō, before the shopping starts in earnest (the better to see the striking contemporary buildings that line this boulevard). For a retreat, step into the hushed environs of one of the excellent art museums here, like the Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Museum of Art, for woodblock prints, or the Nezu Museum, for antiquities.
Harajuku is Tokyo's real-life catwalk, a world-renowned shopping destination where the ultra-chic (and chic-in-training) come to browse and be seen – a sight in and of itself (and a must if shopping is on your itinerary). Work your way back through the snaking side alleys of Ura-Hara (the nickname for the side streets on either side of Omote-sandō, where the fashion is edgier than on the main drag), to Takeshita-dōri. This trendy shopping strip, beloved by teens all over, should be heaving by now.
Once the shops close, Harajuku becomes eerily quiet. Aoyama too, though there are some swanky establishments here that fuel the well-heeled after hours. There are some excellen
t (and not unreasonable) dinner options here, if you've planned for a splurge night.
Local Life
AHang-outs On sunny weekends, Yoyogi-kōen draws crowds of picnicking families, frisbee-tossing students and amateur musicians and dancers using the grassy lawn as free practice space.
AStreet Fashion Photographers for street-fashion magazines line Omote-sandō looking for the next big thing. Teens and 20-somethings know it and dress for a shot at their 15 minutes of fame.
AMarkets On weekends the most popular lunch spot is the cluster of food trucks at Aoyama's farmers market.
Getting There & Away
ATrain The JR Yamanote line stops at Harajuku Station.
ASubway The Chiyoda line runs beneath Omote-sandō, stopping at Meiji-jingūmae (for Harajuku) and Omote-sandō (for Aoyama). The Fukutoshin line stops at Meiji-jingūmae and Kita-Sandō. The Ginza and Hanzōmon lines both stop at Omote-sandō Station.
Lonely Planet Tokyo Page 15
