LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
MULTICULTURAL MEALS
Northwest Tokyo is home to several foreign communities. If you need a break from Japanese food, you'll find some tempting options in these 'hoods. Here are a few local favourites:
Shin-chan (辛ちゃん MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-2-9 Hyakunin-chō, Shinjuku-ku; dishes from ¥980; hnoon-5am; dJR Yamanote line to Shin-Ōkubo) Spicy fried chicken in Shin-Ōkubo's Koreatown.
Ruby (ルビー GOOGLE MAP ; 3-8-5 Takadanobaba, Toshima-ku; mains ¥750-1000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 5pm-5am Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Takadanobaba, Waseda exit) Noodles and more in Takadanobaba's Little Myanmar.
Yong Xiang Sheng Jian Guan (永祥生煎館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, Sun City Hotel, 1-29-2 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; 4 dumplings for ¥400; h11.30am-10pm; dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west exit) Shanghai street food in Ikebukuro's Chinatown.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oBenFiddichCOCKTAIL BAR
(ベンフィディック MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6279-4223; 9th fl, 1-13-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-3am Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit)
Step into the magical space that is BenFiddich. It's dark, it's tiny, and vials of infusions line the shelves, while herbs hang drying from the ceiling. Classical music simmers and soars. The barman, Kayama Hiroyasu, in a white suit, moves like a magician. There's no menu, but cocktails run about ¥1500; service charge is 10%.
oZoetropeBAR
(ゾートロープ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://homepage2.nifty.com/zoetrope; 3rd fl, 7-10-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h7pm-4am Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit)
A must-visit for whisky fans, Zoetrope has some 300 varieties of Japanese whisky behind its small counter – including hard-to-find bottles from cult favourite Chichibu Distillery. The owner speaks English and can help you pick from the daunting menu. Cover charge ¥1000; whisky by the glass from ¥400 to ¥19,000, though most are reasonable.
SamuraiBAR
(サムライ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://jazz-samurai.seesaa.net; 5th fl, 3-35-5 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-1am; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, southeast exit)
Never mind the impressive record collection, this eccentric jazz kissa (cafe where jazz records are played) is worth a visit just for the owner's overwhelming collection of 2500 maneki-neko (beckoning cats). Look for the sign next door to Disc Union and take the elevator. There's a ¥300 cover charge (¥500 after 9pm); drinks from ¥650.
Bar GoldfingerLESBIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6383-4649; www.goldfingerparty.com; 2-12-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-late; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8)
Goldfinger has long been a ladies' haven in Shinjuku-nichōme, though these days just Saturdays are still women-only. It's got a lowbrow-chic decor – designed to look like a '70s motel – and a friendly vibe. Drinks from ¥700; no cover unless there's a special event.
Aiiro CafeGAY & LESBIAN
(アイイロ カフェ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://aliving.net/aiirocafe/; 2-18-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-2am Mon-Thu, 6pm-5am Fri & Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8)
Occupying the former spot of Ni-chome institution Advocates (and many old-time regulars still call it that), Aiiro is the best place to start any night out in the neighbourhood (thanks to the all-you-can-drink beer for ¥1000 happy-hour special). The bar itself is teeny-tiny; the action happens on the street corner outside, which swells to block-party proportions in the summer.
New York BarBAR
(ニューヨークバー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5323-3458; http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com; 52nd fl, Park Hyatt, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat; dŌedo line to Tochōmae, exit A4)
Head to the Park Hyatt's 52nd floor to swoon over the sweeping nightscape from the floor-to-ceiling windows at this bar (of Lost in Translation fame). There’s a cover charge of ¥2400 if you visit or stay past 8pm (7pm Sunday); go earlier and watch the sky fade to black. Cocktails start at ¥2000. Note: dress code enforced and 20% service charge levied.
Arty FartyGAY & LESBIAN
(アーティファーティ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.arty-farty.net; 2nd fl, 2-11-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-1am; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8)
A fixture on Tokyo's gay scene for many a moon, Arty Farty welcomes all in the community to come shake a tail feather on the dance floor here. It usually gets going later in the evening.
RenBAR
(蓮 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-10-10 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-6am; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)
An over-the-top lounge bar brought to you by the folks behind the equally over-the-top Robot Restaurant. After midnight, there's a ¥1000 table charge for groups with men and a 20% service charge added to the bill. Drinks start at ¥500.
DEPARTMENT STORE FOOD COURTS & ROOFTOPS
Should you want to grab a quick bite to eat – without having to brave the crowded streets – head to one of the food courts on the top floors of the shopping centres in and around Shinjuku Station. Takashimaya Times Square (高島屋タイムズスクエア MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; h11am-11pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, New South exit), reached via the New South exit, has the nicest one, though it is also the priciest, with meals starting around ¥2000 per person. Lumine (ルミネ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lumine.ne.jp/shinjuku; Shinjuku Station, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-11pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, south exit) and Mylord (ミロード MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shinjuku-mylord.com; Shinjuku Station, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-11pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, south exit), at the South exit, are cheaper, catering to young shoppers.
Within Shinjuku Station, before you reach the New South exit ticket gates, there are a number of good takeaway vendors – perfect when you're catching the Narita Express or a long-distance bus; you can also sit and eat on the terrace outside the ticket gates, adjacent to the NEWoMan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.newoman.jp; 4-1-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-10pm, food hall 8am-10pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south exit) mall.
From Shinjuku-sanchōme subway station you can directly access Isetan, which has a fantastic basement food hall, with bentō, fresh bread and more. The department store also has a little known, free rooftop garden where you can sit and eat.
3Entertainment
Tokyo Opera City Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(東京オペラシティコンサートホール GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5353-9999; www.operacity.jp; 3rd fl, Tokyo Opera City, 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; ¥3000-5000; dKeiō New line to Hatsudai)
This beautiful, oak-panelled, A-frame concert hall, with legendary acoustics, hosts the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra among other well-regarded ensembles, including the occasional bugaku (classical Japanese music) group. Free lunchtime organ performances take place monthly, usually on Fridays. Information and tickets can be acquired at the box office next to the entrance to the Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery.
Robot RestaurantCABARET
(ロボットレストラン MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3200-5500; www.shinjuku-robot.com; 1-7-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; tickets ¥8000; hshows at 4pm, 5.55pm, 7.50pm & 9.45pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)
This Kabukichō spectacle is wacky Japan at its finest, with giant robots operated by bikini-clad women and enough neon to light all of Shinjuku – though it's become more family-friendly in recent years. Reservations aren't necessary but are recommended: the show's popularity is evinced by the ever-creeping ticket price. Look for discount tickets at hotels around town.
If the price makes you think twice, you can still swing by for a photo-op with two of the robots parked outside. You can also grab a drink (and a taste of Robot Restaurant's signature gilded plastic, game-show-set aesthetic) at new sister bar Ren around the corner.
Shinjuku Pit InnJAZZ
(新宿ピットイン MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3354-2024; www.pit-inn.com; basement, 2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; from ¥3000; hmatinee 2.30pm, evening sho
w 7.30pm; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C5)
This is not the kind of place you come to talk over the music. It's the kind of place you come to sit in thrall of Japan’s best jazz performers (as Tokyoites have been doing for half a century now). Weekday matinees feature up-and-coming artists and cost only ¥1300.
GOLDEN GAI
Golden Gai, a warren of tiny alleys and narrow, two-storey wooden buildings, began as a black market following WWII. It later functioned as a licensed quarter, until prostitution was outlawed in 1958. Now those same buildings are filled with more than a hundred closet-sized bars. Each is as unique and eccentric as the ‘master’ or ‘mama’ who runs it. That Golden Gai – prime real estate – has so far resisted the kind of development seen elsewhere in Shinjuku is a credit to these stubbornly bohemian characters.
The best way to experience Golden Gai is to stroll the lanes and pick a place that suits your mood. Bars here usually have a theme – from punk rock to photography – and draw customers with matching expertise and obsessions (many of whom work in the media and entertainment industries). Since regular customers are their bread and butter, some establishments are likely to give tourists a cool reception. Don’t take it personally. Japanese visitors unaccompanied by a regular get the same treatment; this is Golden Gai’s peculiar, invisible velvet rope. However, there are also an increasing number of bars that expressly welcome tourists (with English signs posted on their doors). Note that many bars have a cover charge (usually ¥500 to ¥1500).
7Shopping
Pokemon Center Mega TokyoTOYS
(ポケモンセンターメガトウキョー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5927-9290; www.pokemon.co.jp/gp/pokecen/english/megatokyo_access.html; Sunshine City, 3-1-2 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am-10pm; bYūrakuchō line to Higashi-Ikebukuro, exit 2)
Japan's largest Pokémon centre sells every piece of the series' merchandise. You can also pose with several large statues around the store, including the one that is the store's mascot: Pikachu riding on the back of a Mega Charizard Y.
BeamsFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(ビームス MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.beams.co.jp; 3-32-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)
Beams, a national chain of boutiques, is a cultural force in Japan. This multistorey Shinjuku shop is particularly good for the latest Japanese streetwear labels and work from designers giving traditional looks a modern twist (including men, women and unisex fashions). Also sometimes available: crafts, housewares and original artwork (the line-up is always changing).
IsetanDEPARTMENT STORE
(伊勢丹 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.isetan.co.jp; 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-8pm; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exits B3, B4 & B5)
Most department stores play to conservative tastes, but this one doesn’t. For an always changing line-up of up-and-coming Japanese womenswear designers, check out the Tokyo Closet (2nd floor) and Re-Style (3rd floor) boutiques. Men get a whole building of their own (connected by a passageway). Don’t miss the basement food hall, featuring famous purveyors of sweet and savoury goodies.
Shinjuku | ALEXANDER SPATARI / GETTY IMAGES ©
BingoyaARTS & CRAFTS
(備後屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.quasar.nu/bingoya; 10-6 Wakamatsu-chō, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun, closed 3rd Sat & Sun of the month; bToei Ōedo line to Wakamatsu-Kawada)
Bingoya has five floors of quality, unpretentious crafts sourced from all over Japan. There’s a particularly good selection of folksy pottery and textiles. Since it’s a little out of the way, it's better for buyers than browsers; the store can help arrange shipping overseas. It’s just in front of Wakamatsu-Kawada Station; look across the main street, to the right.
KinokuniyaBOOKS
(紀伊國屋書店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kinokuniya.co.jp; Takashimaya Times Sq, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; h10am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, south exit)
The 6th floor here has a broad selection of foreign-language books and magazines, including many titles on Japan and English-teaching texts. Note that the rest of the store is currently closed for renovation.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
OTOME ROAD
Ikebukuro's Otome Rd, literally 'Maiden Road', has many of the same anime and manga stores that you see in Akihabara – but they're full of goods that girl geeks love. One of our favourites is Acos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.acos.me; 3-2-1 Higashi Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, east exit), otaku superstore Animate's cosplay speciality shop, which stocks a mesmerising selection of reasonably good-quality wigs (in all the colours of the rainbow), coloured contact lenses and accessories (including stick-on tear drops). Otome Rd is across the street from the west edge of the enormous Sunshine City shopping complex, just beyond the highway overpass.
2Sports & Activities
Thermae-yuONSEN
(テルマー湯 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5285-1726; www.thermae-yu.jp; 1-1-2 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; weekdays/weekends & holidays ¥2360/2690; h11am-9am; W; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)
The best (and most literal) example to date that red-light district Kabukichō is cleaning up its act: the 2016 opening of this gleaming onsen complex. The tubs, which include several indoor and outdoor ones (sex-segregated), are filled with honest-to-goodness natural hot-spring water. There are several saunas, including a hot-stone sauna (ganbanyoku, ¥810 extra). Sorry, no tattoos allowed.
Kōrakuen & Akihabara
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Kōrakuen & Akihabara
Neighbourhood Top Five
1Koishikawa Kōrakuen Slipping into the beautiful verdant world of this classic traditional garden with its central pond, charming bridges and seasonal flowerings.
2Akiba Kart Experiencing the blazing neon and wacky otaku (geek) vibe of 'Akiba' while taking a go-kart for a spin dressed in a Super Mario cosplay outfit.
33331 Arts Chiyoda Encountering dinosaurs made from old plastic toys amid the contemporary art galleries in this former school turned arts-and-culture centre.
42k540 Aki-Oka Artisan Browsing a choice selection of Japanese crafts at this beneath-the-train-tracks mall between Akihabara and Ueno, as well as sister malls Chabara and mAAch ecute.
5Akagi-jinja Threading your way through the narrow, stone-flagged streets of Kagurazaka, with its atmospheric shops and bars, to find this thoroughly modern shrine.
Explore Kōrakuen & Akihabara
Kōrakuen has two big hitter sights: the traditional garden Koishikawa Kōrakuen and the entertainment complex Tokyo Dome City. South of Kōrakuen, in Kudanshita, are two controversial attractions: the shrine Yasukuni-jinja and its adjacent museum Yūshū-kan, which covers Japan's warring past. Anyone with an interest in Japanese history (or Asian geopolitics) should make a stop here. On a lighter note, there are also some pleasant strolls nearby, along the Imperial Palace moats, Hanzo-bōri and Soto-bōri. Also worth a detour: the neighbourhood of Kagurazaka, with its narrow cobblestone lanes, presents a charming alternative picture of Tokyo.
Heading east, the neighbourhood of Kanda, has an interesting trio of religious buildings: the Shintō shrine Kanda Myōjin, the Confucian shrine Yushima Seidō and the Russian Orthodox Nikolai Cathedral. Then throw yourself headfirst into 21st-century Tokyo in Akihabara, the electronics district that has become synonymous with otaku (geeks) and their love of anime (Japanese animation), manga (Japanese comics) and J-pop culture. Akiba, as it's popularly known, also has artisan-goods shopping malls and the contemporary arts centre 3331 Arts Chiyoda.
Local Life
ACosplay Catch anime fans dressed as their favourite characters along Akihabara's Chūō-dōri on Sundays (1pm to 6pm April to September, to 5pm October to March), when it becomes a pedestrian zone.
AFestivals The area bursts with extra creativity during Trans Arts Tokyo (www.ka
nda-tat.com), a contemporary arts fest held in autumn.
AVideo Games Go old-school and join enthusiasts playing Pac-Man and Street Fighter at Super Potato Retro-kan.
Getting There & Away
ATrain The JR Sōbu line runs east–west, stopping at Iidabashi (for Kagurazaka), Suidōbashi (for Kōrakuen), Ochanomizu and Akihabara. Rapid-service JR Chūō line trains stop at Ochanomizu and Kanda. Kanda and Akihabara are stops on the JR Yamanote line.
ASubway Many lines converge in Iidabashi (Nanboku, Yūrakuchō, Tōzai and Ōedo lines). The Hibiya line stops in Akihabara, while the Ginza line stops at Suehirochō and Kanda.
Lonely Planet's Top Tip
Check electronics prices in your home country online before buying big-ticket items in Akihabara; they may or may not be a good deal. If you do buy, have your passport handy since travellers spending more than ¥10,000 in a single day at selected shops can get a refund of the consumption tax (8%). For a list of duty-free shops offering this service, see www.akiba.or.jp.
Lonely Planet Tokyo Page 20
