There are three campgrounds at Cliff and Wade Lakes. Wade Lake and Cliff Point Campgrounds are in proximity to the lakes, with some sites adjoining the water. Hilltop Campground sits on a ridge between the lakes. While there are no water views from Hilltop, the higher elevation affords pleasant breezes. “While the campgrounds at Cliff and Wade place you in the wilderness, you’re within striking distance of some pleasant small towns,” Mike said. “The classic little fly-fishing–centric town of Ennis is thirty-seven miles away. There are some great restaurants there and you can grab a shower. West of Ennis you’ll find the historic towns of Virginia City and Nevada City. They’re well preserved, ‘not quite’ ghost towns. Here you can plug into a living history of the region, like a Williamsburg of Montana. If you’re looking for a more woodsy, remote base camp, you can use Cliff and Wade as a staging ground to visit Yellowstone.
“Montana is a land of wide-open spaces and untrammeled landscapes,” Mike reflected. “Being able to connect with such landscapes is something I’ve dubbed ‘visual Prozac.’ Yet some of these landscapes become over-loved. A bit of the magic is lost when you have to make a reservation a year in advance. Cliff and Wade Lakes are busy on the Fourth of July and Labor Day and most weekends in between. But roll in on a Monday morning, and you’re likely to find a campsite.”
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MIKE HARRELSON began working in backpacking shops and guiding white water in his teens. He headed to Jackson, Wyoming, after completing his BA in English at Virginia Tech. There he became kayaking buddies with Yvon Chouinard, founder and owner of Patagonia. His friendship with Chouinard led him to Ventura, California, where he began a fifteen-year career with the burgeoning outdoor clothing company. During those years, Mike led Patagonia’s public relations efforts, served on their creative team, and became the product line/brand director for the company’s snow-sports division. Mike has since run his own successful travel PR firm and cut his teeth in both outdoor and travel journalism, writing for outlets like Outside, Backpacker, POWDER, Bomb Snow, and Islands. Based in Bozeman, Montana, Mike and his wife Cindy have two boys, Clyde and Mason, who share their love for rock climbing, skiing, and far-flung adventure.
If You Go
Getting There: Cliff and Wade Lakes are roughly fifty miles from West Yellowstone, which is served by Delta (800-221-1212; www.delta.com); it’s two hours from Bozeman, which is served by Alaska Airlines (800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com), Delta, and United (800-864-8331; www.united.com).
Best Time to Visit: Cliff and Wade Lakes are open to camping year-round, though most visit from late spring to early fall.
Campgrounds: There are three campgrounds at Cliff and Wade Lakes: Wade Lake, Cliff Point, and Hilltop. All are first come, first served; fees are $12. Pit toilets and potable water are provided.
Activities: Fishing, hiking, boating, wildlife viewing, and swimming.
Montana—Flathead County
TOBACCO VALLEY
RECOMMENDED BY Tracy McIntyre
Montana attracts a fair share of summertime tourists seeking a chance to take in the state’s big sky, trout-filled rivers, and rugged, mountainous terrain. Many visitors land in the southwest section of the state, where many of its famed rivers run and Yellowstone is in easy reach. Others will make the college town of Missoula a base for their travels. A few more choose to explore the expansive and majestic territory of Glacier National Park and the increasingly chic but still inviting ski town of Whitefish, just outside the park. Very few make it to the far northwestern corner of the state, the sparsely populated region east of the Idaho panhandle, west of Whitefish and abutting the Canadian border.
But more probably should.
“I like to joke that the town where I live is named Eureka because once you land here, you realize you’ve found the perfect spot,” Tracy McIntyre enthused. “Here in the Tobacco Valley, you have the best of both worlds. You have primitive wilderness where you can get lost with vistas as beautiful as those in Glacier, without the touristy elements. If you get lonely, there are more-developed campgrounds where you’ll find other campers. And there are small communities that give you a taste of friendly, small-town Montana.”
The Tobacco Valley sits between the Whitefish Range to the east in Flathead National Forest and the Purcell Mountains in the Kootenai National Forest. The Tobacco River flows through Eureka, but the region’s more significant body of water is Lake Koocanusa, a reservoir (formed by the impoundment of the Kootenai River at Libby Dam) that stretches ninety miles, extending some forty miles above the border into British Columbia. The rugged country here—mountains dotted by deep cirques and rim-rocked basins—was scoured by glaciers, much like the valleys in Glacier National Park. Most of the animals that one could encounter in Glacier—including grizzly bears, lynx, black bears, moose, wolverines, mountain lions, bighorn sheep, elk, mule deer, white-tailed deer, coyotes, and wolves—are found here as well.
There are many different camping options in the greater Tobacco Valley, suited for different camping styles. The most developed (and largest) campground is Rexford Bench, on the shores of Lake Koocanusa. Popular with water-sports enthusiasts (for obvious reasons), Rexford also offers easy hiking in the nearby forest; the Hoodoo Trail leads to eponymous impressive sandstone formations not far from camp. The species of choice for anglers at Rexford Bench is kokanee, a form of landlocked sockeye salmon. Kokanee tend to travel in schools; once you locate them in the water column, you’re likely to catch more than one . . . and they’re a favorite on the grill or in the smoker for fish lovers. Local ospreys and bald eagles also enjoy kokanee, and you’ll often have the chance to watch these winged fishers at work while you cast. (The Kootenai below Libby Dam is celebrated as a blue-ribbon trout fishery.) If you’d prefer a smaller, less developed lake setting, consider North Dickey Lake Campground near the center of the valley. North Dickey offers picnic tables and fire grates, as well as vault toilets and potable water. There’s also a nice swimming beach.
If you’re seeking more solitude, you might consider a hike into the backcountry of the Ten Lakes Scenic Area. Here in the Whitefish Range, peaks climb to more than 7,500 feet, and a number of glacial lakes offer opportunities for cooling swims. In addition to pack in/pack out backcountry sites, there are two lakeside campgrounds in Ten Lakes—Big and Little Therriault—which provide basic amenities. “I lead a very complex professional life, running two businesses while working full-time,” Tracy ventured. “Getting up into a place like the Ten Lakes area is about rejuvenation, about becoming me again. When I come out of the mountains on Sunday evening, I’m ready to face the week.”
Though part of the reason for camping in the Tobacco Valley is the chance to evade the crowds of Glacier, visitors will do well to make a day trip to the park. You’ll want to spend some time on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, which cuts across the center of the park in a west-to-east direction. The fifty-two-mile highway is frequently ranked as one of the most beautiful roads in the world, and many of the park’s totem characteristics—from glacial lakes to windswept passes—are on display from its macadam. As it turns out, Going-to-the-Sun Road is also the launching point for one of Glacier’s most noteworthy day hikes, the Highline Trail, which parallels the Continental Divide for seven miles. The hike is all above tree line, providing for wide-open, grand vistas. The high vantage point, unbroken by trees, makes the Highline an excellent wildlife viewing trail. Hikers almost always see mountain goats and bighorn sheep on the trail. It’s also a good trail to see grizzlies from—at a comfortable distance! As you leave the park, be sure to swing into Lake McDonald Lodge for a libation, or a ride around the lake in a historic wooden tour boat.
* * *
TRACY MCINTYRE was raised in beautiful northwest Montana, spending her summers working the family farm and fishing the mountain streams. After brief stints in Wisconsin and Washington, D.C., she returned to Montana in 2004 and became the director of Eureka Rural Development Partners. In addition to her role at ERDP, T
racy recently launched her own consulting company, Rural Economic Designs, LLC. Rural Economic Designs, LLC, has given Tracy the vehicle to work across the state and Pacific Northwest in community and leadership development. She has also started Montana Memories and Events (www.mtmemories.com), a full-service event-coordination company, and is actively engaged with her father’s Elk Camp Arts Gallery and Showroom (www.elkcampart.com), a western gallery. Tracy graduated from Montana State University–Bozeman with a BA in history, with an emphasis in social history.
If You Go
Getting There: The Tobacco Valley area is roughly an hour northwest of Kalispell, which is served by Alaska Airlines (800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com) and United (800-864-8331; www.united.com).
Best Time to Visit: Mid-June through September; October can be beautiful, but winter weather can blow in at any time.
Campgrounds: There are a number of campgrounds around the Tobacco Valley. These include Rexford Bench (reservations through ReserveAmerica [www.reserveamerica.com], sites from $12); Big Creek (reservations through National Recreation Reservation System at www.recreation.gov, sites from $13); North Dickey Lake (reservations through National Recreation Reservation System, sites from $12); and Big and Little Therriault Lakes (first-come, first-served sites from $5, more information at www.forestcamping.com). Only basic services are available at the latter four campgrounds.
Activities: Boating, fishing, hiking, wildlife viewing, and swimming.
Some of the dunes you’ll traverse in the Namib Desert approach heights of nearly 500 feet.
Namibia
NAMIB DESERT
RECOMMENDED BY Hein Truter
“The Namib Desert is a tough place, but a beautiful place,” Hein Truter ventured. “It’s the kind of landscape that can bring you to your knees, but then it brings you back up again. It’s the oldest desert in the world, according to the people with the big brains, and has some of the highest dunes in the world. When you think about the amount of time it’s been here [it’s estimated to have been formed fifty-five million years ago], you’re reminded what a small bit of sand you are in the scope of things. I’ve seen grown men in tears at the grandeur of the place . . . then again, it could have been because their vehicles were broken!”
The Namib Desert stretches along the entire coast of Namibia (some 1,200 miles), a large, sparsely populated nation on the southwest coast of the African subcontinent, bordered by Angola to the north, Botswana to the east, and South Africa to the south. It covers 30,000 square miles of the country and is one of the driest places on earth; in parts, less than an inch of rain falls annually. A number of hardy plants and animals have evolved to withstand the aridity, soaking up moisture from the fog that blows in from the Atlantic. One of the most curious of these is Welwitschia mirabilis, a low-growing shrub with only two leaves that can live more than 1,000 years.) The park is also home to oryx, jackals, baboons, and hyenas. (Conditions in most of the desert are too arid to support lions and elephants, however they are occasionally found in the more northern area known as the Skeleton Coast.)
There are no resorts or campgrounds—or for that matter, roads—in the Namib. The only way to experience the desert is via 4x4. Hein’s favorite route begins in Namibia’s south-central region and makes its way west to the Atlantic. “When you get to the sea after all this dryness, you can’t help but be struck by the contrasts,” he continued. “Much of the land we cross is controlled by the Topnaar community, the indigenous people who traditionally lived here before Europeans arrived. They now offer a finite number of concessions to tour operators to bring visitors through the desert.”
The adventure through the Namib begins in Namib–Naukluft National Park (famous for the grueling seventy-two-mile Naukluft Hiking Trail) and follows the path of the German settlers that came to Namibia in the late 1800s. These settlers came in search of minerals, especially diamonds. In the Kuiseb River Canyon, red sand dunes are separated by strips of grassy plains. Combined with the white of the empty river bottom and the black of surrounding formations, the Kuiseb is a kaleidoscope of natural shades. “We pitch our first camp in the river canyon,” Hein described, “and guests enjoy their first Namib dinner—a somewhat meat-oriented affair. Our guides are some of the best field cooks I’ve ever encountered. They’ll make a braai (barbecue) of beef steaks, eland (a large member of the antelope family), lamb, or pork; they bring the wood in. (Guides can accommodate vegetarians and other food preferences.) On the northern side of the canyon you will find some of the most southern-growing Welwitschia mirabilis. This area is also a good spot to see oryx, a large antelope that’s evolved to be able to survive in this harsh climate. It’s amazing how fat and healthy they are, given there seems to be so little to eat. One of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen was a pair of oryx running up the dunes.”
After breaking down camp, your little four-wheel-drive caravan continues west, leaving an arid environment for an even drier dune experience. “As we make our way into the dunes, you begin experiencing the vastness of the desert,” Hein continued. “We’re often traveling in straits—the place between tall dunes, a highway of sorts. Many dunes are nearly five hundred feet tall. As we’re pushing along, there may be more sightings of oryx. Jackal are frequently observed too. Part of the thrill of this adventure is negotiating the dunes. Our guides are seasoned drivers and will show you how it’s done. Many visitors who want to bail out after climbing the dunes on day one will be very comfortable by the end. If adult visitors would like, they can try their hand at driving. The first challenge is learning to get over the lip of the dunes. Your instinct is to press the brake as you reach the top since you don’t know what’s on the other side. Do that, you’ll get stuck on the belly of the vehicle. You have to get the timing just right to keep the car moving and just drop over the other side. When you’re heading down, the idea is to let the car brake itself by keeping it in low gear. If you press the brakes, the back of the car will slide out, and the only way you can right it is to go faster. The night camping in the dunes is very special. The sunset is incredible; the depth and shades really shine through. We host a few photography groups each year, who come to get these shots . . . though one leading photographer who’s been here has said that there’s no way a camera can take in the experience.”
As the caravan moves toward the coast, you’ll reach the deserted diamond-mining settlements of Holsatia, Charlottenfelder, and Grillenberger. “These settlements are in one of the more inhospitable areas to live in the world,” Hein mused. “No water, no supplies. Everything had to be brought in from the coastline by ox cart for the first fifteen years of exploration. It’s a testament to the hardships people will endure to chase their dreams and lady luck. I don’t think the land met their expectations.” You’ll finally reach the coast near Sandwich Harbour and Conception Bay. The wind here is stronger, and this is evidenced by the wreck of the Eduard Bohlen. The ship ran aground on a sand bank in the ocean. Today, it’s a few hundred yards inland. “The desert is a living, evolving thing,” Hein added. “A dune that’s passable today may not be passable in two weeks.” The braais of the previous evenings are replaced by a potjie (stew made in cast-iron pots) as the wind makes barbecuing less practical. But the wind also brings cooler temperatures.
The last day’s drive toward Walvis Bay holds some of the adventure’s most memorable moments. You’ll pass large flocks of flamingoes and pelicans and vast colonies of fur seals. “There will usually be jackals standing among the seals, waiting for weaker ones to expire,” Hein described. “It’s a strange symbiosis.” You’ll also experience some of the trip’s most intrepid driving, including Lange Wand—or “Death Acre.” “Lange Wand is a very narrow stretch of beach where the dunes come right down to the sea,” Hein described. “You can only pass at low tide, and it’s barely two meters wide. Many have had their calculations wrong and their vehicles lost.”
Hein’s team have yet to lose a vehicle in Lange Wand.
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HEIN TRUTER is the CEO of Live the Journey’s branch in Namibia. A seasoned traveler, he has lived many years in Southeast Asia and the Middle East, however his love for the outdoors finally brought him back to Africa. Hein firmly believes that there is more to traveling than just seeing landscapes from the inside of a vehicle. “Living locally,” even just for a week, is the only way to appreciate what a country and its people are about. Live the Journey (www.livethejourney.co.za) is a Southern Africa–based Destination Management Company (DMC) that offers more than thirty unique destinations to the more adventurous traveler. This includes gorilla trekking in Rwanda, snow golf in Mongolia, driving monster trucks in Iceland, or tracking desert lions in Namibia!
If You Go
Getting There: International travelers generally enter Namibia via the capital, Windhoek, which is served from Europe by Air Namibia (+264-61-2996000; www.airnamibia.com) and from South Africa by British Airways (800-247-9297; www.britishairways.com) and South African Airways (800-722-9675; www.flysaa.com).
Best Time to Visit: Tours of the Namib are offered year-round. Hein recommends that you avoid Easter season and June/July, as this is high season for South African vacationers. Spring and fall are a bit cooler, though temperatures are not as extreme as you’d imagine.
Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die Page 12
