A Book of Voyages

by Patrick O'Brian

Philip Skippon was the son of Major-General Skippon, a prominent Roundhead and a vigorous pamphleteer.

  Skippon made his breakneck tour in company with Ray the botanist and Willughby the ornithologist; they both wrote accounts of the journey, rather after the same style as Skippon’s but with very much more about their own subjects. Both Ray and Willughby are published separately and in Harris’ Iterinarium Bibliotheca of 1705, but Skippon only appears in Churchill, where he occupies a great deal of space, being no less than 350,000 words long.

  Skippon’s parentage was not held against him, for King Charles II knighted him, possibly in recognition of his scientific attainments.

  APRIL 17. 1663. St. Vet. being Friday, Mr. Ray and my self took horse at Leeds in Kent, and rode to Canterbury 20 miles, and 15 miles further we arrived at Dover, where we stay’d all night, and met the rest of our company, viz. Mr. Willughby and Mr. Bacon, with two servants, who came post from Gravesend.

  April 18. In the morning we went up to the castle, seated on a high hill, garisoned by 150 soldiers, and governed by C. Stroud; without the walls is a deep trench, and within nigh 30 acres of ground; here stand the ruins of a church, and the palace, a compact building, now somewhat defaced; a broad pair of stairs make the ascent into two or three large rooms; some small impressions were made by cannon bullets in the siege 1648. Within the castle walls are three wells, one in the outward space about 60 fathoms deep; a stone let down perpendicularly into it, strikes against the sides many times. Another well at the palace in the inner space about 80 fathoms deep; it has a little house over it, where they put two asses into a great wheel which being mov’d round by them, brings up the bucket of water: the third well is near the broad stairs of the palace. In a little vault where beer is sold, we saw the brass horn call’d Julius Cæsar’s, the sound whereof gave notice to the workmen to begin and leave off their days work, when they were building this castle. Below the cliff, and under the castle, is a platform, with guns that command the sea near the shore. On the walls of the castle are many platforms, having great guns mounted, among which one we observ’d about 23 foot long, made in Flanders, 1544; the bore of it is small. In this castle we saw a Turky ram with four horns, two of the horns recurved like a goat’s, the other two hanging down by his ears, which were much larger than our ordinary sheep’s; his snout was arched, and his tail cut off because it trail’d upon the ground; the body seem’d not much bigger than our common sheep; the wooll was coarser.

  The town of Dover is large and long, situated under the cliffs; it is a corporation, and sends two parliament-men to the house of commons. The haven has a peer of wood, and not far off is a warehouse of an indifferent bigness.

  Before we entred the packet-boat, we pay’d to the clerk of the passage four-pence custom for a trunk, and two-pence a portmanteau, four shillings and ten-pence for transcribing a pass for four persons, and three shillings and six-pence for transcribing a pass for two persons. To the water-bailiff one shilling; to the master of the ferry one shilling and six-pence a man; i.e. one shilling town-custom, and six-pence for himself. To the searcher, six-pence a man for writing down our names, and we gave him two shillings and six-pence because he did not search us.

  April 18. About two in the afternoon we went aboard the packet boat; about eight in the evening we were becalm’d, and were forced to lie two leagues short of Calais till the morning, and then about five o’clock we arriv’d at Calais-shore, having sail’d eight leagues from Dover. We gave five shillings a man for our passage, and five shillings for the use of the master’s cabbin. Two French boats met us off at sea, and boarded us, and paying three-pence a-head to the master of the ferry, we enter’d one of the boats in the haven; but before they would set us ashore, after much wrangling with those brawling sharking fellows, we were forced to give them six-pence apiece. When we came to the town gate, the searchers opened our portmanteaus: they can demand nothing for searching, except any new things are found, as silk stockens, laced bands, &c. for which there a considerable custom must be paid. When we came to our inn, we repos’d our selves till noon, and then walk’d over a large square market-place, where there is a market twice a week, viz. on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The town-house (maison de la Ville) hath a fair tower; the hall for lawyers courts was burnt down 1659. We view’d Nostre Dame church, and saw many altars dress’d with pictures, &c. The high altar is curious wood-work, adorned on one side with the statue of Charlemagne, on the other side with the statue of St. Louis, and on the top the virgin Mary. To this church belong 20 priests, the chief of which is Le Doyen. On the north side of the church is a monument erected to Sir Andrew Young, an Englishman, Baron de Baume, who dy’d 1637. In the church-yard the tombs are set up on the wall, as in Scotland. While they are at their devotions, the poor will beg of strangers and others in the church. We visited the nuns of the Dominican order, they were 28 in number; their chapel is a plain building without and within; none of the nuns appear in the chapel, but their singing may be heard thro’ the wooden grates in the wall. We were brought into a little parlour, and discoursed through a wooden grate with two of them, (one could speak a little English). They sold us several things made of straw, and saints bones wrought up in wax, and made at Rome, which were impress’d with the saint’s effigies; they did not give them immediately to us with their own hands, but put the lesser thro’ the grate, and the bigger things into a cylindrical box, which having a hole in one side, they turn’d the box, and then we took the things out of it. They would not shew us their faces. Besides the grate they have a curtain within, and they have a maid that stands nigh the altar to put out some of the candles when service is done. They chuse their abbess once in three years. Another nunnery call’d the Hospital.

  At the convent of the Minnums who are of the order of St. Francis de Paolo, we saw a poor maid in the church, who (they say) was three years before miraculously cured of a palsy and asthma in a quarter of an hour’s time, by praying before St. Francis his picture, she herself telling us that she was thus suddenly restor’d to her health and use of her limbs, after she had been four years distemper’d; her picture hangs up there, praying to that saint, and underneath are her crutches. And we also observ’d a great many legs, arms, hearts, &c. of wax, being resemblances of such parts as were cur’d. The friars brought us into their parlour, where the story of St. Francis is painted in several pictures, and we were in one of their cells, where they shew’d us a piece of our Saviour’s cross brought out of England, and a piece of the spunge us’d at the passion. They have a small library, and garden; 20 monks did belong to this place, but now they are reduc’d to 12. Their cells are mark’d 1, 2, 3, &c.

  April 20. being Rogation week, we saw their procession.

  We went to the Capuchins chapel, but saw nothing there remarkable.

  Calais is populous, it hath two gates, one at the haven, and the other very handsome, call’d la Porte Royalle. The houses are much after the Scotch fashion, built of brick, and tyl’d; their windows are half glass, and the lower half is a wooden casement. The great church (Nostre Dame) and a large square stone building, were built by the English. Many of the women wear green rugs in cold weather about their heads and shoulders, like the Scotch plads; they call’d this rug une mante.

  A strong old wall made by the English encompasses the town, and a deep trench full of water round about it, and without this trench is a new wall, built about 35 years ago, with two trenches of water about it. They would not suffer us to go up any steeple to view the town, nor permit us to go into the citadel, which is large, and within the walls of Calais; two forts besides and bulwarks without the walls. The number of the soldiers in garison is sometimes 2000, sometimes 3000, more or less. The present governor’s name is Mons. Le Conte de Chano, one of the four captains of the king’s guard, mareschal de Camp, counsellor to the king, governor of Calais and le pais Conquis. Soon after we came to Calais we sent our names to him; drums and trumpets gave us their salutes. Old Calais is not far distant. Hereabout
s and in the town are 22 windmills.

  The government of Calais is by a mayor and four eschevins chosen by the freemen every year; the eldest eschevin is deputy mayor. None can be mayor except he hath first been treasurer and four times eschevin. There is a court of justice to decide controversies between merchants.

  The Hugonots or Protestants that are freemen, are not capable of the aforesaid honours; the governor can arbitrarily dispose of the town offices.

  On the sands near Calais we found growing Rhamnus Ius Diosc. and Cochlearia minor rotundifolia.

  April 21. paying first to the searchers at the gate five-pence a portmanteau, and five-pence a trunk, and five-pence for a pass through the Gate, and eleven-pence for a pass to Greveling and Dunkirk, we went into our waggon, and travelled by Oye in a fenny level. Some distance before we came to Greveling, our portmanteaus were visited by a troublesome searcher, notwithstanding the pass we procur’d in the morning; then we ferry’d over the river Aa in a boat, which was pull’d over by a rope that cross’d the water. Four leagues from Calais we arriv’d at Greveling, passing first over five draw-bridges. Many trenches, strong bulwarks, and a firm wall about this place. The houses are poorly built, being a frontier of Flanders which is divided from France by the Aa; the streets are broad and well paved; we saw Nôtre Dame church, and gave a visit to the English nuns of the order of St. Clare; the name of the abbess was Taylor; she spake very civilly to us, and told us they were in number 44. They live very strictly, and never see the face of any man; the bars were of iron that we discours’d through. They have a large house and garden. About eight years ago part of their chapel was blown up with the magazine of the town. The abbess is chosen for life by the major vote.

  Another nunnery of 14 black nuns. And a monastery for 14 recollets.

  A large market-place, where are markets on Wednesdays and Fridays.

  He that is governor of Dunkirk is governor of this place. They would not permit us to walk the fortifications.

  After dinner we pass’d in sight of Borborgh steeple, and riding a sandy way by little hills, we saw the ruins of Mardyck fort. The country hereabouts is much spoil’d by wars.

  In the evening we entred Dunkirk, and the next morning, April 22. we had drums beating at our chamber door. About five or six months before, the town was garisoned by 5000 English soldiers, but now sold to the French king for 5.000.000 livres; the governor is monsieur le Strade ambassador at the Hague, and his deputy-governor is the marquis Monpessant; there are about 3000 in garison. The soldiers have two or three streets of uniform lodgings, two stories high, three beds in the lower room and two above, and three soldiers lie in a bed. We went in a boat to the fort built lately by the English; it is on the sand, which by some winds is so driven, that you may walk over the walls. The English made two firm bulwarks which command the sea, and under them is a broad platform, and then a thick wall (not yet finish’d) and within the wall is a passage for soldiers to stand in, and shoot through; a trench round besides; beyond the fort, towards the sea, is another sand. There are three gates besides the watergate; the town is not so populous as Calais. Most of the dead are buried in a church without the suburbs, and a little chapel called St. Louis. The Stadthuys is a good stone-building; there are three market-places, one for corn, another for fish, and a third for herbs, called the green-market.

  There are three gilds of fraternities, first, of the cross bow; second, the hand-bow; third, the musket. St. George is patron to the first, St. Sebastian to the second, and St. Barbara patroness to the last.

  Dunkirk town is govern’d by 16 magistrates, who out of their own number make a yearly choice of two bailiffs and a burgomaster. The freemen elect the 16.

  The buildings are fair and uniform, and the streets broad and handsomely pav’d. St. Peter’s street is so called from his statue erected there.

  [They visit several nunneries and churches. Having viewed Nieuport they come to Ostend.]

  Having passed over three draw-bridges, we came into a neat square market-place, where one of our company went to the captain of the guard to be examined whence we came, &c. At night we sent our names to the governor’s deputy, there being no governor at present; but Don Pedro Cheval is expected; there were not above 500 or 600 soldiers that garison’d this exactly fortify’d place, and the curious bulwarks. The town is indifferently full of inhabitants, who are under the government of eight magistrates, one bailiff, and one burgomaster, who are chosen every year, two years, or three years, as the commissaries of the country please.

  There is a little square market-place for cattel. The key is handsome and broad, and the haven is large.

  The great church is indifferent; but having no chapels, the altars are set against the pillars. At the high altar is a fair picture of St. Peter fishing. At the west end hangs this inscription.

  Ab insidijs Gallorum liberavit nos Dominus. Anno 1648. 15. Jun.

  Two monuments, one of the last governor.

  The prison is well built, and hath a beautiful tower, with many chiming bells in it. The king of Spain hath granted many immunities to this town. There are but two gates, and but two monasteries, one of Capuchins, the other of Jacobin or Dominican nuns.

  April 24. we took our places in a boat that went a league, being a fourth part of the way to Bruges; and then we came to Sluces, and entred another boat, which brought us betimes in the afternoon to Bruges. In our passages the boatman pay’d something at two bridges, which were remov’d aside, to let the boats pass.

  The city of Bruges hath very fair streets, well pav’d, strait and broad, the citizens houses are handsome, five or six stories high; in the market-place, a spacious square, we saw a multitude of people about a stage, where actors entertained the company with dancing, &c. this week being a time of jollity, there being a kermes or fair. The gentlewomen in their coaches rode through the principal streets, and observe a tour as our English gallants do in Hyde-Park, and the ladies are treated with sweet-meats, &c. And yet it is reputed a great absurdity to eat apples or any thing else as one walks in the streets.

  We saw a very tall man, 27 years old, born at Schoonhoven in Holland, his name is Jeanne Taeks; I stood under his armpits with my hat on, which was two yards; from his middle finger’s end to his elbow, 25 inches and a half; the length of his hand from the tip of his finger 11 inches. His finger was as long as my hand, eight inches. He spoke English, having some years since been in England …

  In this city are five gilds or fraternities; 1. of the fences; 2, 3. Two of the cross-bows; 4. The musket; 5. The hand-bow; this last we saw, and went into a garden, where, in a long gallery, the spectators stand to see the shooting: here a high pole stands with a wooden parrot on the top, which is shot at every last Sunday in April; he that shoots it off is chosen master with a great deal of triumph; the late duke of Gloucester took it down, and under his picture in the great hall is inscrib’d.

  Henrico D. G. Duci Glocestriæ Sodalitij Sti. Sebastiani Mœcenati et Sodali.

  Our king Charles the second’s picture is in white marble with his arms.

  In the garden lies a whale’s throat-bone.

  We saw one of the cross-bow gilds. In the garden are long bowling alleys (made like Pall-malls) where they play with sphærical bowls; a chapel at this gild …

  [Having toured Bruges and Ghent with wonderful thoroughness and rapidity, they go on their way.]

  In the afternoon we rode bad way mended with wood, the country shaded with trees. Two Spanish soldiers on horse-back begg’d of us. At night we reach’d Brussels; where, on the 30th of April, we walk’d to the warrande or park, which is a pleasant place planted with many high beeches, &c. This park is between the two walls of the city; a pall-mall, many deer kept here; three fountains. We saw three gardens; in the first a corona of dancers mov’d by water; in the second garden we saw a comical cap of copper kept up by a stream of water; out of the garden knots the water sprung up in several places, and a ball playing on the top of a stream; in the third
garden we saw a Cupid shooting water, and a goose putting water out of its mouth; a summer-house supported by pillars over the water, and a water-work in the midst of a labyrinth of arbors. Near the palace lies a good statue of Mary Magdalen, the statue of Charles V. and a Hercules standing against a pillar, and another of Hercules struggling with Anteus. The riding place is just by, and a gallery where we heard our voices eccho’d ten times distinctly; the wind hindered, else we were assur’d we might have heard the eccho 15 times. Organs are here mov’d by water. We saw at this place two eagles, two white Moscovy ducks, and an ostrich which was about an ell high, the feathers of the body black, except the tail and the wings, which were white and little; great eyes and large ears, a long neck, being most of it covered with a whitish down; large nostrils, a broad head and bill; it had short thin blackish hairs on the head, long legs, both legs and thighs naked. It had two toes, and no heel or posticus.

  The palace is a stately building. In a gallery there are standing the statues of 13 emperors [follows a list].

  In the royal chapel, over the altar is written on a picture of the wisemen offering,

  Aurum, Myrrham, Thus Regique, Hominique Deoque dona ferunt.

  At the west end of the chapel is this inscription.

  Anno Domini 1553. sexto nonas Julias, Nos Hieronymus Dandinus Cæsenus titulis Mathæi S.R.E. Pbr. Cardinalis cognomento Imolensis Julii 3. Pont. Max. & sanctæ Apost. sedis ad gloriosiss. & invictiss. Principem Carolum Roman. Imp. semper Aug. universamque Germaniam Superiorem & Inferiorem, reliquasque illius ditiones Legatus à Latere. Piissis. votis desiderioque ipsius Caroli, & utriusque ejus sororis Helleonoræ Galliarum & Mariæ Hungariæ Reginarum, hoc sacellum, & summam in eo aram, Divo Philippo Apostolo, & Divo Joanni Baptistæ, consecravimus, ac omnibus Christi fidelibus, qui hodie eodemve per singulos annos die facellum hoc religionis adorationisque causâ adierent, Veniæ absolutionisque annos 7 in morem Ecclesiæ solitum condonavimus.