History
Chefchaouen was originally known as Chaouen, meaning ‘peaks’. Under Spanish occupation the spelling changed to Xaouen, and in 1975 the town was renamed Chefchaouen (Look at the Peaks). These days the names are used interchangeably.
Moulay Ali ben Rachid founded Chaouen in 1471 as a base for Riffian Berber tribes to launch attacks on the Portuguese in Ceuta. The town expanded with the arrival of Muslim and Jewish refugees from Granada in 1494, who built the whitewashed houses, with tiny balconies, tiled roofs and patios (often with a citrus tree in the centre), that give the town its distinctive Spanish flavour. The pale-blue wash prevalent today was introduced in the 1930s – previously windows and doors had been painted a traditional Muslim green.
The town remained isolated and xenophobic – Christians were forbidden to enter on pain of death – until occupied by Spanish troops in 1920. When the Spanish arrived they were surprised to hear the Jewish inhabitants still speaking a variant of medieval Castilian. The Spanish were briefly thrown out by Abd al-Krim during the Rif War in the 1920s, but they soon returned and remained until independence in 1956.
Chefchaouen
1Sights
1Art GalleryC3
2Bab el-AnsarF1
3Ethnographic MuseumC3
4Grande MosquéeC3
5KasbahC3
6Plaza Uta el-HammamC3
7Ras el-MaaF1
8Sidi Ali ben Rachid MosqueA3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
9Chaouen RuralD3
10Douches BarakatD2
Lina Ryad & SpaC2
4Sleeping
11Casa HassanC2
12Casa PerletaB2
13Dar BarakaB3
14Dar Ech-ChaouenF2
15Dar GabrielB2
16Dar MezianaB1
17Dar MounirC3
18Dar TerraeD2
19Dar ZmanC4
20Hostal GernikaD2
21Hotel BarcelonaC2
22Hotel KoutoubiaD2
23Hotel MarrakeshC3
24Hotel SalamC3
25Hotel SouikaB3
26Lina Ryad & SpaC2
27Pension MouritaniaC3
28Pension YasminaB3
5Eating
29AssaadaB3
30Bab el-Ansar CaféE1
31Chez AzizB3
32Chez HichamC2
33La Lampe MagiqueC2
34Lala MesoudaC2
35MandalaD3
36Plaza Café-RestaurantsC3
37Restaurant Les RaisinsB4
Restaurant TissemlalC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
38Bar Oum-RabiáB4
39Hotel ParadorD3
7Shopping
40Ensemble ArtisanatD2
1Sights
Chefchaouen is split into an eastern half (the medina), and a western half (the ciudad nueva, or new city). The heart of the medina is Plaza Uta el-Hammam, with its unmistakable kasbah. The medina walls have recently been repaired, with Spanish funding. The principal route of the new city is Ave Hassan II, which stretches from Plaza Mohammed V, a leafy square designed by artist Joan Miró, past the western gate of Bab el-Ain, around the southern medina wall and into the medina itself. Here it dead-ends at Pl el-Majzen, the main drop-off point. The bus station is a steep 1.5km hike southwest of the town centre. The falls of Ras el-Maa lie just beyond the medina walls to the northeast.
Medina
Chefchaouen’s medina is one of the loveliest in Morocco. Small and uncrowded, it’s easy to explore, with enough winding paths to keep you diverted, but compact enough that you’ll never get too lost. Most of the buildings are painted a blinding blue-white, giving them a clean, fresh look, while terracotta tiles add an Andalucian flavour.
KasbahLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 63 43; Plaza Uta el-Hammam; museum & gallery Dh10; h9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Wed, Thu & Sat-Mon, 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm Fri)
The kasbah is a heavily restored walled fortress that now contains a lovely garden, a small ethnographic museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; museum & gallery Dh10; h9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Wed, Thu & Sat-Mon, 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm Fri), and an even smaller art gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The ethnographic museum contains some fascinating views of old Chefchaouen, including the plaza and the kasbah; the gallery promotes the work of local artists. The views from the kasbah tower over the medina are a delight.
Plaza Uta el-HammamPLAZA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The heart of the medina is the shady, cobbled Plaza Uta el-Hammam, which is lined with cafes and restaurants, all serving similar fare. This is a peaceful place to relax and watch the world go by, particularly after a long day of exploration.
Grande MosquéeMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Uta el-Hammam)
Noteworthy for its unusual octagonal tower, the Grande Mosquée was built in the 15th century by the son of the town’s founder, Ali ben Rachid, and is closed to non-Muslims.
Outside the Medina
Ras el-MaaRIVER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The waterfall of Ras el-Maa is just beyond the far northeastern gate of Chefchaouen medina. It’s here, where the water comes gushing out of the mountain, that local women come to do their washing. The sound of the water and the verdant hills just beyond the medina wall provide a sudden, strong dose of nature.
Talassemtane Eco-MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; near Camping Azilane)
This museum at the entrance to the Talassemtane National Park is well worth a visit. It has info on the park, maps of treks and an extensive display of the flora and fauna found in the park. Registration here is essential if you intend to camp during your trek.
DON'T MISS
THE SPANISH MOSQUE
Looking east, you’ll easily spot the so-called Spanish mosque ( GOOGLE MAP ) on a hilltop not far from the medina. It’s a pleasant walk along clear paths and well worth the effort. Start at the waterfall Ras el-Maa, just beyond the far northeastern gate of the medina. Continuing over the bridge, you can walk to the Spanish mosque following the hillside path. The mosque was built by the Spanish in the 1920s, but never used.
The mosque has been newly restored (by the Spanish, again) and there are plans for it to open as a cultural centre. From the hilltop minaret you'll have a grand view of the entire town sprawling over the green hills below.
2Activities
Hammams
Lina Ryad & SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0645 06 99 03; www.linariad.com; Ave Hassan I; gommage Dh300, 1hr relaxation massage Dh300; h10am-8pm)
The spa at this riad has a hammam and various forms of massage, and a candlelit oriental bath for two. Finish with a facial to complete the picture.
Douches BarakatHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Onsar; hammam Dh20; hmen 8am-noon, women noon-8pm)
The local hammam is the traditional way to get clean – and cheap with it.
CLIMBING JEBEL EL-KELAâ
Looming over Chefchaouen at 1616m, Jebel el-Kelaâ might initially appear a daunting peak, but with an early start, it can easily be climbed in a day if you’re in reasonably good shape.
The hike starts from behind Camping Azilane, following the 4WD track that takes you to the hamlet of Aïn Tissimlane. Rocks painted with a yellow- and white- stripe indicate that you’re on the right path. The initial hour is relatively steep as you climb above the trees to get your first views over Chefchaouen, before cutting into the mountains along the steady piste (track). You should reach Aïn Tissimlane within a couple of hours of setting out, after which the path climbs and zigzags steeply through great boulders for nearly an hour to a pass. Turn west along the track, which leads to the saddle of the mountain, from where you can make the final push to the summit. There’s a rough path, although you’ll need to scramble in places. The peak is attained relatively quickly, and your exertions are rewarded with the most sublime views over this part of the Rif.
It’s straightforward and quick to descend by the same route.
Alternatively, you can head north from the saddle on a path that takes you to a cluster of villages on the other side of the mountain. One of these villages, El-Kelaâ, has 16th-century grain stores and a mosque with a leaning minaret. From here, a number of simple tracks will take you back to Chefchaouen in a couple of hours.
Trekking
The Talassemtane National Park starts just outside Chefchaouen, and has numerous hiking options. If you're camping, you must register at the park entrance, where there's also an informative eco-museum.
The Bouhachem Regional Nature Reserve lies between Tetouan, Chefchaouen and Larache, and has a number of treks of various lengths visiting local villages and exploring the mountains, forests and waterfalls. There are a several gîtes (trekkers' hostels) for overnight stays. The park is exceptionally beautiful and covers an enormous area of 80,000 sq km. Designated a Site of Biological and Ecological Interest, it is, along with the nearby Talassemtane National Park, one of the core areas of the Intercontinental Biosphere Reserve of the Mediterranean shared between Andalucia (southern Spain) and Morocco. The forest has various species of oak, maritime pine and cedar. The park is home to an important number of birds (99 species), mammals (32 species including the Barbary macaque) and reptiles (17 species).
Abdeslam MoudenTREKKING
(%0661 46 39 05; [email protected]; groups of up to 10 half-/full day Dh250/400, lunch per person in gîte Dh85)
Abdeslam Mouden and his team of 13 trained guides lead treks lasting from half a day to several days in both parks, with optional visits to honey production, cheese-making and organic vegetable farming projects.
Chaouen RuralTREKKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 72 67; www.chaouenrural.org; Pl el-Mazjen)
Chaouen Rural offers treks in Talassemtane National Park, some with a focus on medicinal plants.
DON'T MISS
STROLLING THE RIVERSIDE
Exit the medina at Bab el-Ansar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and head downhill a few metres until you cross the river. Turn right after the bridge and follow the path on the eastern side of the river, Oued Ras-el Maa. The route has been prettily landscaped, and meanders alongside the water. There are spectacular views of the medina, and it all makes a very pleasant downhill saunter of around half an hour. The path meets Ave Allal ben Abdallah, where you can hail a taxi to take you back to the medina.
4Sleeping
Chefchaouen has a large number of accommodation options. As the medina is what you’ll come to Chefchaouen for, it’s best to stay here, though there are some good options outside the walls. Some hotels have heating; if not, you will be sleeping beneath plenty of blankets during cold winter nights. Most other accommodation options are clustered along Ave Hassan II, which runs south of the medina alongside the old city walls.
Medina
oDar BarakaGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0614 68 24 80; www.riad-baraka.com; 12 Derb Ben Yacoub; d with/without bathroom Dh275/Dh220, dm Dh100; W)
English-owned Dar Baraka is a bright and cheery place to rest your backpack. The rooms are comfortable and share spotless facilities, and there's a convivial terrace with good views for meeting fellow travellers. There are a handful of private rooms or dorms for four, with bunk beds. Map murals help orientate yourself in the medina.
Breakfast and laundry service are available on request.
Dar TerraeGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 75 98; www.darterrae.com; Ave Hassan I; s/d Dh480/600, d/tr without bathroom Dh280/380, all incl breakfast; W)
This cute guesthouse has funky, cheerfully painted rooms, some with their own bathroom and fireplace, hidden up and down a tumble of stairs and odd corners. There's a good breakfast spread every day served on a small terrace, tea and coffee throughout the day and dinner on request. Also known locally as the ‘Hotel Italiano’.
Hostal GernikaGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 74 34; [email protected]; 49 Onssar; d/tr Dh250/350)
This is a warm and charming place, with a very caring and attentive owner, near the Pl el-Majzen. Most rooms are large and bright, and face the mountains. There's a fire in winter and books to read. The terrace has spectacular views. Reservations are advisable in summer, Easter and December. Breakfast not included, plus a heating supplement in winter.
Hotel KoutoubiaGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 84 33; [email protected]; Calle Andalouse; r with medina/mountain views Dh250/350; W)
This hotel does quality budget accommodation well, with friendly and attentive management, a central location, traditional decor, spotless rooms and a closed-in roof terrace where you can have breakfast on those cold mornings.
Hotel SouikaHOSTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 68 62; www.hotelsouika.com; Derb Hadi Alami; dm Dh60)
A hostel by any other name, Souika has a series of dorms with bunk beds, plus a couple of double rooms. The shared showers and toilets are adequate, and the decorator got so carried away with them he covered half the hostel with bathroom tiles. Hard to beat on value for the rock-bottom price.
Hotel BarcelonaGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 85 06; [email protected]; 12 Rue Targhi; d with/without bathroom Dh300/156; W)
A good budget option in bright Chefchaouen blue. The fixtures and fittings are pretty basic, but the hotel is well maintained, and the rooftop terrace is wonderful. The en-suite rooms have their own semi-private terrace area.
Pension YasminaGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 88 31 18; [email protected]; 12 Zaida al-Horra; r per person Dh100; W)
For the price bracket, this place sparkles. Rooms are bright and clean, though avoid the ones without windows. All bathrooms are shared. The location is a stone’s throw from Plaza Uta el-Hammam, and the roof terrace is very welcoming. This bargain doesn’t have many rooms, though, so it can fill up quickly.
Pension MouritaniaHOSTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 61 84; [email protected]; Derb Hadi Alami; dm Dh70)
Basic hostel with extremely simple dorms and a roof terrace that's been part of Chefchaouen's travel scene for as long as we can remember. Pleasant courtyard and helpful staff.
oCasa PerletaGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 89 79; www.casaperleta.com; Bab Souq; d incl breakfast Dh500-900; W)
This lovely house offers rooms sleeping two or three, and one suite for four. It's full of wonderful local fabrics and furniture and white walls that soothe after the blue medina. The cosy sitting room has a fireplace for chilly nights, and there's central heating in all rooms. Topping it off is a terrace with great views.
Dar GabrielGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Spain 00 34 952 11 74 86; www.dargabriel.com; Bab Souq; s/d incl breakfast Dh350/500; W)
The warmth of natural brick teamed with lots of local rugs and fabrics make this a comfortable option. The cosy lounge has a fireplace, there are three roof terraces and meals can be provided. Rooms are simple and individually decorated. Excursions into the mountains are on offer.
Dar MezianaGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 78 06; www.darmezianahotel.com; Rue Zagdud; r incl breakfast & dinner Dh648-933; aW)
Beautifully decorated, this boutique hotel has a unique angular courtyard, lush plantings, lots of light, the highest quality furniture and extraordinary ceilings. On the edge of the medina and not well signposted, but lovely.
Dar MounirGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 82 53; www.hotel-darmounier.com; Derb Hadi Alami; r Dh520-620; W)
A cute guesthouse with helpful staff and a series of nicely presented rooms in tradtional style, piled on several floors leading up to a terrace with fine views. A few rooms are dark with internal windows only; others are much brighter and fresher. All come with a surfeit of horseshoe-shaped doorways and windows.
oCasa HassanGUESTHOUSE€€€
(Dar
Baibou; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 61 53; www.casahassan.com; 22 Rue Targhi; s/d with half-board from Dh700/850; a)
Don't be confused by the signs: Casa Hassan is now across the street from its sister restaurant of the same name. The move has much improved this long-established guesthouse – knocking together a couple of properties has provided airy, well-laid-out rooms, a couple of courtyards and a pleasant patio garden, as well as the obligatory roof terrace. A great choice.
Lina Ryad & SpaGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0645 06 99 03; www.linaryad.com; Ave Hassan I; s/d incl breakfast Dh1200/1400; Ws)
The upmarket Lina Ryad is opulent and impeccably turned out – a brand-new building made to look traditional. It has large, comfortable rooms with TV (and free movies) and friendly staff. The roof terraces have fabulous views. An internal courtyard holds a delightful heated pool that's surprisingly private, and there's a restaurant serving mostly Moroccan cuisine (mains Dh100, no alcohol).
Outside The Medina
Hotel MarrakeshHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 98 77 74; [email protected]; 41 Ave Hassan II; s/d incl breakfast Dh150/220, d/tr with shower Dh250/300; W)
Slightly outside the medina but with good access, the Marrakesh is a hotel with a bit of cheer. Bright pastel rooms invite the fresh air in, bathrooms have good showers, the common room attracts with its central fireplace, and the roof terrace offers fine views over the valley. All rooms share toilets; the more expensive rooms have a shower.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 49
