( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0671 11 35 28; www.darseffarine.com; 14 Derb Sbaalouyat, R’cif; incl breakfast r from €75, ste €110-130; aW)
A short walk from Pl Seffarine, this classy dar stands on high ground, meaning it's filled with light and blessed with plenty of external-facing windows – the lovely roof terrace towers over much of the rest of the medina. Its owner is an Iraqi architect and graphic designer whose talents are reflected in the understated room interiors. Dinner (Dh200) and alcohol can be served in-house.
One of the suites is positively palatial, with a painted domed ceiling.
Ryad SalamaGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 57 30; www.ryadsalama.com; 4 Derb el Tadla, Talaa Seghira; r incl breakfast €70-110; aWs)
Well located between Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, this is a true riad with a lovely courtyard garden, inviting plunge pool and winter salon with an open fireplace. Upstairs rooms have delightful balconies to play Fassi Romeo and Juliet from. Rooms are finished to a very high standard, but the roof terrace is disappointingly small and basic. Alcohol is served.
Dar Fes MedinaGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0673 31 41 07, 0535 63 83 92; www.darfesmedina.com; Derb Mokri, Ziat; s/d incl breakfast Dh550/660; aW)
There’s a clever trick being played here: walk through the 17th-century doors and you'll think you're in a restored medina townhouse, but this dar is a recent build. You'll get the best of both worlds – slightly more spacious and modern rooms, but a pleasingly traditional veneer. The Fassi owners have expertly decorated the dar with antiques from their father's shop in Fez.
And its location near Bab Ziat provides another medina rarity: taxis can drop you right outside the front door. Nearby, the brothers who own this place have recently completed a more traditional restoration (Riad Mazar, from Dh770), but given it the same modern spin with orthopedic mattresses and high-tech temperature controls throughout.
Dar BensoudaGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 89 49; www.riaddarbensouda.com; 14 Zqaq Labghal, Qettanine; r incl breakfast from €85; aW)
A converted palace, Dar Bensouda is one of the most impressive medina restoration projects in Fez. There's a large column-flanked traditional courtyard plus a more modern side annexe hosting a small but lovely pool with loungers. The scale here is grand without being overwhelming, and the service excellent. The only downside is its location: right at the heart of the labyrinthine medina.
That said, the staff are more than happy to collect you from, or guide you to, wherever you wish to go, and can even furnish you with a local phone.
Dar el MeniaGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 31 64; www.darelmeniafez.com; 7 Derb el Menia, Talaa Kebira; standard/superior d incl breakfast €60/75; W)
Dar el Menia is a compact townhouse with four rooms tucked off the main drag. It's relatively restrained in its decor, giving an air of calm the moment you close the door. At the time of writing, the riad was under new management and upgrades such as luxury bedding and air-con were being installed. Cooking lessons and meals can be provided in-house.
Dar FinnGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0655 01 89 75, 0535 74 00 04; www.darfinn.com; 27 Zqaq Rowah; r Dh850-1300; aW)
Fassi houses often surprise as they open up after passing through a dark medina doorway. Dar Finn manages the trick twice over, going from high Fassi style in the main house to an adjoining annexe with walled garden, plunge pool and a variety of patios. There's a lovely view from the multilevel roof and two rooms are suites with private terraces.
Of the five rooms, two lack air-con – no fun in Fez' sweltering summers.
Riad Lune et SoleilGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 45 23; www.luneetsoleil.com; 3 Derb Skalia, Batha; r incl breakfast €65-90; aW)
Each room at this French-owned riad is a cornucopia, filled with the evidence of a lifetime of collecting, from old postcards and embroidery to carvings and metalwork. It’s not a museum, though; there’s plenty of comfort too, and some rooms have their own Jacuzzi. There's also a good kitchen, a rooftop salon for colder weather and parking around the corner (Dh20 per night).
Hôtel BathaHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 74 10 77; [email protected]; Pl Batha; s/d incl breakfast Dh350/500; as)
The great location, room capacity and pool keep the Batha permanently busy, and is popular with tour groups. It’s a reasonably modern set-up, with fair rooms and a tranquil courtyard to retreat from the hustle of the medina. There's a convenient bar and nightclub next door for those looking for a drink in the medina.
Dar AttajaliGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 77 28, 0677 08 11 92; www.attajalli.com; Derb Qettana, Zqaq Rommane; r incl breakfast Dh950-1300; aW)
Dar Attajali is a magnificent testament to the art of patient and sympathetic restoration. Everything has been done to maintain the building’s integrity, using a minimum of modern techniques, while producing a supremely comfortable guesthouse. Days kick off with organic, locally sourced breakfasts, and the guesthouse is known for its vegetarian and vegan food. Discounts of 20% are available July and August.
oRyad MabroukaGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 63 45; www.ryadmabrouka.com; 25 Derb el-Mitter, Ain-Azleten; incl breakfast d Dh1150-1450, ste Dh1300-2000; aWs)S
An old favourite, Mabrouka is a large, meticulously restored Arab-Andalucian townhouse whose owners go the extra mile for guests and strive to employ sustainable practices. There are eight rooms, all with little extras to make your stay more special: bathrobes and bathrooms equipped with traditional olive-pitt soap and scrubbing gloves are lovely touches. The courtyard opens onto a lush garden with medium-sized pool.
Enjoy a simple breakfast or an all-out Moroccan feast (set menu Dh130 to Dh240) on the view-tastic verandah overlooking the medina, or in bad weather there's a pretty 1st-floor, window-fronting tiled terrace – wherever you desire. Massages can also be arranged and the owners will happily furnish you with a wealth of information on the city. Mabrouka's location is good for taxi drop-offs, too.
Riad IdrissyGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0649 19 14 10; www.riadidrissy.com; 13 Derb Idrissi; d incl breakfast €85-140; aW)
This magnificently restored townhouse wins extra points for its adjoining garden, a quirky green haven of huge papyrus and banana trees that has taken root in next door's crumbling foundations – now cleverly converted into one of Fez' best restaurants, the Ruined Garden. Bedrooms are beautifully done, bathrooms have welcome modern flourishes and there's a lovely little Evita Balcony peeping over the garden.
Central African crafts and old Arabic vinyl records add an interesting decorative twist. The riad operates an informal room service and here's a nice touch: the friendly staff will put a basket of tea and coffee outside your door before 8am, so you can have drinks in bed before facing the world.
Riad FèsGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 94 76 10; www.riadfes.com; 5 Derb ben Slimane, Zerbtana; d incl breakfast from Dh2100; aWs)
This labyrinthine riad has knocked together several houses to create a spacious hotel with stylish lounge areas, blending ancient and modern with impressive panache. The newer quarters wouldn’t look out of place in a Parisian boutique hotel yet remain unmistakably Moroccan. Its location is also good: not too far from taxi drop-offs in Pl Batha, but also close to Talaa Seghira action.
The most recent renovations have gobbled up an adjoining house to create a unique hammam ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 94 76 10; www.riadfes.com; Derb Zerbtana; hammam from Dh350; hnoon-8pm) spectacularly sited around a riad courtyard, plus an enlarged pool area. If you can't afford to stay here, it's still worth coming for a drink.
Riad LaaroussaGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0674 18 76 39; www.riad-laaroussa.com; 3 Derb Bechara, Talaa Seghira; d incl breakfast Dh1200-2200, ste from Dh
2700; aWs)
Entering through Laaroussa's cavernous dark entrance hall, it comes as a surprise to be greeted by such a large green space, with orange trees and a softly playing fountain. Indeed, there's loads of space here and the joy continues in the fine rooms, decorated with modern art and eclectic furniture, and the outstanding (large!) dedicated pool annexe. One of Fez' best riad experiences.
There's also a hammam and restaurant (dinner Dh280) serving alcohol. Discounts available low season (July and August).
Riad Maison BleueGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 74 18 73; www.maisonbleue.com; 33 Derb el-Mitter, Ain-Azleten; d/ste incl breakfast from Dh1900/2800; paWs)
You have to be careful not to get lost in this riad – it's four houses knocked together and even extended across the street. Start in the orange-tree-clad, Andalucian-style courtyard, then find your way to any of the 18 rooms, possibly stopping en route at the private spa, fashionably dark and plush Blue Lounge, or chic terrace restaurant-bar (nonguests welcome) with views to Borj Nord.
The latest addition to the stable is a kitted-out, in-house cooking school – Maison Cordon Bleue – on the ground floor, offering a variety of culinary experiences (half-day class Dh850).
Palais FarajHERITAGE HOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 53 56; www.palaisfaraj.com; 16-18 Quartier Ziat, Derb Bensouda, Bab Ziat; d incl breakfast from €180; paW)
It took four years to reinvent this 19th-century palace as the bells-and-whistles heritage hotel that stands today. The Faraj retains some beautiful original features, but mixes them with edgy modern updates such as mirrored walls. There's an air of openness and calm, thanks to its location abutting a quiet wall of the medina, which also means it's a cinch to access by taxi.
The hotel is home to a recommended restaurant, L'Amandier.
Riad Les OudayasGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0669 10 94 90; www.lesoudayas.com; 5/6 Derb el-Hamiya, Ziat; r incl breakfast from Dh900; aWs)
The Moroccan owner is a Paris-based designer, something that certainly shows in this riad's careful blend of traditional styles and modern design aesthetic, in everything from the downstairs salons to the chic but comfortable bedrooms. There's a plunge pool in the courtyard garden and a private hammam leading off it. Alcohol is served in the ground-floor honesty bar.
Up top there's a large roof terrace, but if you crave privacy, two of the five rooms have private terraces.
Ville Nouvelle
In the ville nouvelle, room rates drop considerably compared with the more popular medina, so much of the time you can get midrange accommodation at budget prices. Although there are exceptions, note that hotels in this area of town can lack character and often allow smoking.
Hôtel SplendidHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 62 21 48; [email protected]; 9 Rue Abdelkarim el-Khattabi; s/d incl breakfast Dh353/432; aWs)
Although in the budget category, this 69-room hotel makes a good claim for three stars and has bags more personality than many of its competitors. There's original art-deco character on the outside, while the rooms are modern and clean on the inside. The large courtyard pool is a bonus, though it's a little overlooked. There's also a restaurant (dinner Dh150).
Hôtel CentralHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 62 23 33; 50 Rue Brahim Roudani; s/d without shower Dh200/250, d with shower Dh300; W)
A bright and airy budget option conveniently located just off busy Blvd Mohammed V. Most rooms have bathrooms, but even those without a shower have their own sinks. It’s clean and good value, and many rooms come with petite wooden-shuttered balconies.
Hôtel OlympicHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 93 26 82; www.hotelolympicfes.com; Rue Houman el Fatouaki, off Blvd Mohammed V; s/d Dh310/420; aW)
A handy choice near the central market, this hotel has nondescript but modern and comfortable rooms, equipped with bathrooms and TVs. Its central location means it’s often heavily booked (it’s popular with tour groups), so call in advance. Breakfast is Dh35.
Youth HostelHOSTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 62 40 85; www.hihostels.com; 18 Rue Abdeslam Serghini; dm incl breakfast Dh75, d without bathroom Dh170; hcheck-in 8am-9pm, gate open 24hr; W)
One of the better youth hostels in Morocco, the Fez branch is a surprising leafy retreat where local Fassi pottery adds extra charm to a series of zellij-splashed patios. Tidy rooms and facilities (including Western-style toilets) are superbly clean, there's a communal kitchen and the staff can wrangle you discounts on official guides and tours. There's hot water mornings and evenings.
Across HotelHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 94 06 12; www.acrosshotels.com; 76 Bvld Chefchaouni; s/d incl breakfast Dh1050/1350; paWs)
A sparkling modern hotel in a convenient location, the Across ticks all the boxes for its four stars. Rooms are as you'd expect, there's a gym, a hammam, a bar, a restaurant and a rooftop pool with amazing 360-degree views over the city and (wait for it!) a bar. Prices shown here are rack rates; you can bag a 40% discount if you book online.
Hôtel MouniaHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 62 48 38; www.hotelmouniafes.ma; 60 Blvd Zerktouni; s/d incl breakfast Dh551/702; aW)
A zellij lobby guides you into this modern hotel that’s popular with tour groups. Rooms are bright and tidy, with satellite TV. There’s a smoky bar as well as a nightclub (midnight to 3am). Rooms along corridors near the bar can be noisy. Staff are helpful, and good discounts are often available. There's a lift.
oHotel SahraiDESIGN HOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 94 03 32; www.hotelsahrai.com; Dhar el-Mehraz; standard/deluxe ste incl breakfast from Dh2000/2500; paWs)
This smart hotel venture from the owners of Riad Fès blends the comforts of a modern luxury stay with all the charm of Fez' Moroccan heritage. Oversized Fassi pottery and brass lanterns set the tone in the communal areas, while understated rooms feature sumptuous sunken baths and Acqua di Parma products. Deluxe rooms and junior suites have wonderful infinity-pool views.
High on the southern hills overlooking the medina, the Sahrai feels like it's in a world of its own – but there's still a convenient shuttle bus to ferry guests to the medina and back. That's if you can tear yourself away from the Givenchy spa, two restaurants and gorgeous rooftop cocktail bar.
Hotel Barceló Fès MedinaHOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 94 88 00; www.barcelo.com; 53 Ave Hassan II; r Dh1760, ste from Dh1900; aWs)
One of Fez' chicest hotels, the 134-room Barceló sweeps elegantly around a corner opposite Pl de la Résistance, affording it excellent views of the medina. Despite its name, it is in the ville nouvelle. Rooms are well designed and spacious, with chic decor. There's a spa and a bar (serving alcohol – nonguests welcome), as well as a restaurant. Book online for discounts.
WHAT'S ON IN THE VILLE NOUVELLE
Compared to the sensory overload provided by the medina, the ville nouvelle can seem boring: very modern, but with little actually going on. But for most Fassis, the ville nouvelle is where it’s at and, far more interesting and progressive than crumbling Fès el-Bali. In the past few years, huge amounts of money have been poured into the area, the benefits of which can best be seen along the long boulevard of Ave Hassan II, with its manicured lawns, palm trees, flower beds and fountains. This is the 'real' Morocco as much as any donkey-packed lane in the old city. That said, Fez' ville nouvelle still lacks the panache of its equivalents in Marrakesh and Casablanca, and there's very little of interest here for visitors.
5Eating
Dining in Fez is something to be taken seriously. Fassi cuisine is famed across Morocco, and there are plenty of places in the medina to choose from. One of the most intimate experiences can be had dining at a riad, many of which are open to nonguests and offer excellent fare. A good range of cheaper places can be found around Bab Bou Jeloud. The ville nouvelle has more non-Moroccan opti
ons.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
FEZ PRODUCE MARKETS
R’cif MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; inside Bab R’cif; h8am-8pm Sat-Thu; v)
Those who shop for fresh produce in the medina know that R’cif is the best place to go – its traders always have the freshest fruit, vegetables and meat.
Talaa Kebira MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-8pm Sat-Thu)
Tucked inside Bab Bou Jeloud, this market is easy to access and regularly enthralls tourists with its animal heads, live chickens, street-food stalls and local hagglers. It is home to Fez' two famed camel-meat vendors.
Central MarketMARKET
(Marché Municipal; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V; h8.30am-noon)
If you’re in the ville nouvelle and in need of fresh fruit and veggies, spices, nuts, olives or a parcel of delicious dates, you can’t beat the new town’s central market. It also has a couple of good cheese stalls.
Medina
oCafé ClockCAFE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 63 78 55; www.cafeclock.com; Derb el-Mergana, Talaa Kebira; mains Dh55-95; h9am-10pm; Wv)
This trendy place is a hive of activity laid out over a series of comfy rooms and terraces, and a hub for creative types involved in the cafe's culture program. Its refreshing menu mixes Moroccan and Western flavours: grilled sandwiches such as herbed chicken with preserved lemon mayo sit alongside interesting vegetarian options, a signature camel burger, and ras el hanout wedges.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 59
