by Timothy Egan
Great Saint Bernard Pass, 186, 192–93, 196, 201, 202–4, 205–6
Greece, 101, 150, 308
Greenblatt, Stephen, 90
Gregory I, Pope, 15, 90–91
Gregory VII, Pope, 94
Guinigi Tower, Lucca, 264
Gutenberg, Johann, 168–69
Gutenberg Bibles, 46, 168–69
Hadrian, Emperor of Rome, 321–23
Hamel, Jacques, 62
Harari, Yuval Noah, 223
Hautvillers, France, 112, 114
Hawking, Stephen, 229, 231, 321
hazelnuts, 303, 306
Helena, Saint, 109, 318
Henry II, King of England, 10, 11, 17, 24, 171
Henry VIII, King of England, 17, 18, 45, 182, 305
History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, The (Gibbon), 102
Hitchens, Christopher
on faith’s inferiority to reason, 144, 320–21
on miracles, 48, 75
on pilgrimages, 25
on sexuality, 90
Hitler, Adolf, 317
Holocaust, 21, 171
Holy Ampulla, 98, 100–101, 104, 105, 107
Holy Prepuce, 318–19
Homo sapiens, 223, 229
homosexuality
and Calvinism, 178
Catholic doctrine on, 217
as criminal offense, 37, 215
Pope Francis on, 32, 217
Savonarola on, 282
and Wilde, 37, 215, 217
Hoppe, Leslie J., 89
Hôtel de l’Univers, Arras, 68
Hôtel Le Cheval Blanc, Langres, 136
House of Savoy, 219–20
Hugo, Victor, 45, 49, 148–49, 169
Huguenots, 122, 124–25, 126–27, 128, 175
Hunchback of Notre-Dame, The (Hugo), 149
Hungary, 150
Ignatian Method, 211
Ignatius of Loyola, Saint, 312, 323–24
illegitimacy, 22–23
illness, Saint Augustine on, 240
Importance of Being Earnest, The (Wilde), 215
incorruptibles, 78, 212
function of miracle of, 297–98
Saint Rose of Viterbo, 299–300
See also Filippini, Saint Lucia
Index of Prohibited Books, 140
Innocent III, Pope, 103, 268
Innocent VIII, Pope, 281
Inquisition
Catholics’ support for, 105
execution of Bruno, 320
intolerance associated with, 33
and Pope Innocent VIII, 281
Pope John Paul II’s apology for, 127
and Saint Ignatius of Loyola, 323
International Museum of the Reformation, 165, 167, 169
Ireland
ascetics’ preservation of books in, 44
Book of Kells, 45–46
Christianity established in, 15
and England, 24
and Saint Brigid of Kildare, 91
and Saint Patrick, 15
and wandering of the Irish, 261–62
ISIS, 36
Islam
European intolerance of, 150
and Frederick II, 257
and Jerusalem, 257
and Pope Innocent III, 268–69
and Saint Francis of Assisi, 269
Islamic fundamentalists, 36, 62, 127
Italy, 196
aging population of, 242
Alps in, 196, 218
American-style restaurant in, 248
author’s family’s residence in, 253, 275–76, 279, 283, 294
Autogrills in, 246
and bella figura, 247–48
Bonfire of the Vanities in, 282, 283–84
driving in, 245–46
economic difficulties of, 150
emergence as nation state, 220
hazelnuts of, 303, 306
impact of Via Francigena on northern towns in, 246–47
and Lateran Treaty (1929), 316–17
olive trees of, 302–3
ruins of, 308
Stele Statues of, 256
sunsets in, 292
and testaroli, 256, 258
trash dumped in, 311, 313
and Via Francigena, 220
Wilde’s sonnet to, 215
work lives of modern Italians, 259
Ivrea, Italy, 196, 232
James, Saint, 98
Jefferson, Thomas, 68, 137, 140
Jerome, Saint, 88–89, 94, 167
Jerusalem, 123, 257, 269
Jesuit House, Gonzaga University, 53, 60–61
Jesuit priests, 49, 323. See also Francis, Pope
Jesus
on charity, 275
and Church of England, 7
contemporary perspectives on, 200
cross and crucifixion relics, 109, 317–18
and Gnostic Gospels, 86
and Holy Prepuce, 318–19
and Mary Magdalene, 86, 87
message of, 44
and message of Easter, 173, 319
in Michelangelo’s Pietà, 260–61
and miracle of blood dripping from host, 287
miracles of, 48, 75–76
and the poor, 275
Resurrection of, 44, 319
and sexuality, 83–85
and “unlearned” pre-Christians, 256–57
virgin birth of, 84–85
Jews
and afterlife, 301
Catholic Church’s treatment of, 103–4, 127
Christians’ role in furthering hatred of, 13
expulsions, 13, 103
and Frederick II, 257
and Luther’s anti-Semitism, 171
massacre by Crusaders, 123
Pope John Paul II’s apology to, 127
and women rabbis, 301
Joan of Arc, Saint, 82–83, 92–94, 95, 232
Jobs, Steve, 114
John the Baptist, 222
John of Flavigny, Father, 211–13, 214, 230–31, 327
John Paul II, Pope, 18, 105, 127, 159, 321
Johnson, Paul, 20, 43
Joseph (Mary’s husband), 85
joy as sign of God’s presence, 177
Julian, Emperor of Rome, 102
Julius II, Pope, 281, 305
Julius III, Pope, 324
Kennan, George, 67
Knights Templar, 74, 99, 257
knowledge, universal access to, 143
Knox, John, 182
La Storta, Italy, 196, 311–12, 320
La Verna, Italy, Franciscan sanctuary at, 266–67, 270–73
Labre, Saint Benoît, 39–40, 64, 232, 328
labyrinths
at Abbey of San Caprasio, 258, 259–60
at Cathedral of San Martino, 264
Greek mythology roots of, 264–65
message of, 265
at pilgrimage’s end, 322
in Pontremoli, 255–56
in Vatican City, 326
Lake Bolsena, 196, 301
Lake Viverone, 196, 239, 240
Langres, France, 131, 132, 136, 138–39, 145
Laon, France, xvi, 81, 200
author’s arrival in, 72
author’s attempted confession in, 78–79
Cathedral of Notre-Dame, 73, 78–80
miracles of, 73, 74, 78, 81, 324
Last Judgment (Taddeo di Bartolo), 274–75, 276, 277
Lateran Treaty (1929), 316–17
Laurenzi, Carlo, 59, 96–97, 113, 200, 250, 311–13
blog of, 200
; goals for pilgrimage, 25–26, 250
spiritual belief of, 313–14
Lausanne, Switzerland, 132, 164, 166, 184–85
Lawrence, D. H., 283–84
Lazio, 303, 310
Leo III, Pope, 318
Leo X, Pope, 167, 169
Les Misérables (Hugo), 130, 149
liberty, 141
listening on pilgrimages, 213
literacy, 44–45
loneliness of pilgrimage, 96, 193
Lorenzetti, Ambrogio, 277
“Lost Monument,” Geneva, 176
Lourdes, France, 75
Lucca, Italy, 196, 261–62, 264
Lucia (Filippini), Saint. See Filippini, Saint Lucia
Lunigiana region, 255
Luther, Martin
on abstinence/celibacy, 94, 169
anti-Semitism of, 171–72
Bible translated by, 167, 170
and Calvin, 179
democratization of Christianity, 167
and Erasmus, 124
excommunication of, 169
in exile, 170
and Gutenberg’s printing press, 169
marriage and family of, 170
modern perspectives on, 172, 173
95 theses of, 163–64, 167, 168
and Peasants’ War, 170–71
and Reformation, 182
and Saint Augustine, 234
trial of, 169–70
Lutheranism, 170, 172–73
Macron, Emmanuel, 39, 54
Malik al-Kamil, Sultan of Egypt, 269
Manchester, William, 116, 180
marble quarries, 260
marriage, 88, 288–90
Martigny, Switzerland, 193, 203
Martin (of Tours), Saint, 56
Mary, Virgin
and Gnostic Gospels, 86
in Michelangelo’s Pietà, 260–61
and Palio horse race, 279
virgin status of, 84–85, 88–89, 91, 94
Mary I, Queen of England, 17
Mary Magdalene, 85, 86–87, 90–91
Massacre of Wassy, 122, 124–25, 126–27, 128
Maurice, Saint, 189–90, 192
McCrae, John, 71
Meagher, Thomas Francis, 49
Medici, Giovanni de’, 167, 169
Medici family, 281, 284
medieval era, 8, 29–31, 44
Mencken, H. L., 182
Mensah, Alexis, 153
Mercury, Freddie, 187
Metaxas, Eric, 170
Michelangelo, 260–61, 315
military-miracle converts, 77
mindfulness, 259
miracles
author’s hopes for, 81, 324
and author’s rationality, 287
effected by relics, 18
Father John of Flavigny on, 212
guidelines for reviewing, 77–78
Hitchens on, 48, 75
of Jesus, 48, 75–76
of Jesus’ blood dripping from host, 287
of Laon, 73, 74, 78, 81, 324
at Lourdes, 75
military-miracle converts, 77
Miracle of Orléans, 92
people’s search for, 48–49
and Pope Francis, 77
as recruiting tool, 48
Saint Augustine on, 74–75, 78, 287
of Saint Christina, 287
of Saint Paul’s conversion, 76–77
at Saint Thomas Becket’s tomb, 11
and sainthood, 77–78
sight restored to the blind, 14
stigmata, 270, 271, 272
undecayed bodies of saints. See incorruptibles
Mitterrand, François, 205
Moët & Chandon, 109–10, 111–12
monarchs
as anointed leaders, 104–5
conversion of Clovis, 77, 100, 104, 105
and Divine Right of Kings, 101, 104
and droit du seigneur, 105
and Holy Ampulla, 98, 104, 107
Queen Victoria’s descendants, 69–70
See also specific monarchs
money, modern emphasis on, 259–60
Mont-Saint-Michel, France, 56
Monte dei Paschi di Siena, 279–80
Monte Mario park, Rome, 314–15
Montecassino, Benedictine monastery at, 56
Montefiascone, Italy, 196, 286, 287, 294–95
Montmollin, Gabriel de, 171–72
Montreux, Switzerland, 132, 186–87
Monument to the Dead, Péronne, 70
Moore, Tim, 123
motivations for pilgrimage, 6–7
Mount Fogliano, 303, 304
Musée Protestant de la Grange de Wassy, 121
Museum of the Great War, Péronne, 70–71
Muslims
in France, 143
and Frederick II, 257
and Saint Francis of Assisi, 267, 269
See also Crusades
Mussolini, Benito, 316–17
mysticism, 285
myths, function of, 222–23
Napoleon. See Bonaparte, Napoleon
nationalism, 68, 150, 246
nature, duty to protect, 153
Neanderthals, 223
Nero, Emperor of Rome, 318
New Orleans, 190
New Testament scriptures, 75–77
Noah’s Ark, 305
Norsemen, 57–58
Norway, 58, 170
Notre-Dame church, Calais, 39
Odoacer, King of Italy, 261
O’Donnell, Patrick G., 141, 154–59, 160
olive trees, Italy, 302–3
On the Errors of the Trinity (Servetus), 180
On the Jews and Their Lies (Luther), 171
On the Nature and Dignity of Love (William of Saint-Thierry), 97
O’Neill, Michael, 78
Orsières, Switzerland, 132, 201–2
Our Lady of Miracles, Saint-Omer, 48
pagans, eternal fate of, 256–57
Paine, Thomas, 137
Palace of Tau, Reims, 107
Palio horse race, 277, 279, 284
Pancras, Saint, 5, 311
Pantheon, Rome, 260
parenthood, 217–18
Paris, 103, 119, 125
Pas-de-Calais, 31, 126
Pascal, Blaise, 230
“Pascal’s Wager,” 230
Passo della Cisa, 196, 254
Path to Rome, The (Belloc), 99–100
Patrick, Saint, 15
Paul, Saint, 76–77, 87–88, 260, 316, 318
Pavia, Italy, xv, 196, 234, 242–43, 244
Peasants’ War, 170–71
Pérignon, Pierre (Dom), 109–10, 111–12, 145, 310
Perini, Giovanni, 258–60
Péronne, France, xvi, 70–71
Peter, Saint, 252–53, 316, 327
Peters, Julia, 28
Petrarch, 322
Philip Augustus, King of France, 103
Philosophical Thoughts (Diderot), 137
Piacenza, Italy, 196, 245–49
Picture of Dorian Gray, The (Wilde), 215
Pietà (Michelangelo), 260–61
pigeons and dovecotes, 130–31
pilgrimage of author
commencement of, 3–4, 9
and digital cleanse, 54
effect on cluttered thinking, 259, 276
end of, 319–20
and footwear, 247–48, 249, 278
goals and expectations for, 238, 243–44
halfway point of, 186
hydration on, 96–97, 223
>
injuries, 139, 201, 221, 224, 232, 237, 238–39, 240, 271, 328
loneliness of, 96, 193
mishaps and misadventures on, 51–52, 115, 193, 306–7, 308
motivations for, 6–7
nearing Rome, 309, 314–15
outcome of, 320
pilgrim passport for, 9, 297, 326
preparations for, 3
provisions on, 201, 235
and rental car, 245–46, 251, 253, 271, 285, 286
route to Rome. See Via Francigena
spiritual progress on, 113–15, 287, 319, 323, 327–28
and summer heat, 186, 199, 200–201
Testimonium for completion of, 9, 319, 326
time required for, 8, 326
wife’s encouragement of, 302
pilgrims
and absolution, 320
and benefits of pilgrimage, 11, 259, 304
critics of, 25
eleventh-century depiction of, 252
at Great Saint Bernard Hospice, 208–10
and labyrinths, 265
in medieval era, 8, 30, 252, 253–54
motivations of, 8–9, 25, 30, 259, 288
offerings left in Berceto, 253–54
on road to Saint James’s tomb, 98
searching by, 259–60
spiritual changes in, 313
starting in Canterbury, 19
and time to think, 259
Pittet, Daniel, 250
Pius XI, Pope, 316–17
Pius XII, Pope, 33
Piverone, Italy, 237
plagues, 29, 274, 278
planetary movement, 320
Poland, 150
Pontremoli, Italy, 196, 255–57
Poor Clares, 270
popes (Pontifex Maximus), 103, 228
kissing shoes of, 324
and Medici family, 284
and papal seat in France, 278
and Saint Augustine’s relics, 244
in Viterbo, 299
See also Vatican; specific popes, including Francis, Pope
Porte de Mars, Reims, 98
Portugal, 104
poverty
freedom afforded by, 268, 270
of Saint Francis of Assisi, 268, 270
and treatment of the poor, 275
prayer
author’s, for sister-in-law, 81, 107, 192, 200, 276, 324
nature of, 313
unceasing prayer at Abbey of Saint-Maurice, 187–88, 190
predestination, 178, 180, 239–40
Presbyterian Church, 182
Pretini, Alessandro, 267
Primavera (Botticelli), 280–81
printing press, 46, 47, 123, 168–69
Protestants and Protestant movement
doctrines of, 127–28
and Edict of Nantes (1598), 125
founding narrative of, 163–64
in France, 124
Massacre of Wassy, 122, 124–25, 126–27, 128
Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, Paris, 125
