A half hour later, Graham’s eyes widened as the van passed by a pull-off area with a sign indicating Mud Volcano Trailhead. He recalled Redfield said the Dragon’s Mouth was near the Mud Volcano. He noted the location of this trailhead on the Grand Loop road along the Yellowstone River and made a mental note to find it on a park map.
The van pulled up to the Yellowstone Hotel just before four o’clock. The summer employees climbed out and were directed into the hotel, where they were given room assignments by an administrator. While his fellow passengers would have hotel rooms, Graham was informed he and a roommate would stay in the housing units across the road. The key he was given was attached to a brown oval fob with “Room 21” embossed on red plastic tape. Everyone was scheduled to have breakfast at the employee cafeteria in the morning, then attend an orientation in the hotel.
Graham shouldered his framed pack, grabbed the handle of his day pack, and walked across the road behind the hotel toward the housing complex. The cluster of rustic single-story buildings was situated at the base of a hill covered with sagebrush and a few pine trees. Rooms were strung together in a motel arrangement with small windows and exterior wooden doors. Three wings of rooms were constructed in a U shape with the open end of the building layout facing the lake. A square building twenty feet long on each side was situated in the center of the U. The barracks had been built in the early part of the century when the army was commissioned to oversee management of Yellowstone.
Graham walked along the left wing and surveyed the shoddy condition of the building. Peeling paint revealed the chocolate-colored siding was previously an ivory color. Caulking beads around the windows were cracked or missing, and the wooden steps in front of each unit were warped and partially separated from their pressure-treated stair stringer supports. He located room 21 near the end of the wing, climbed the five steps to a small landing, and inserted his key into the slot of the doorknob. To his surprise, the door was unlocked and swung open when he turned the knob.
He stepped through the door, closed it behind him, and let his eyes adjust for a few seconds while he scanned the room. The unit was twelve by twelve with gray, wooden plank flooring and walls constructed of tongue-in-groove paneling. An old two-drawer pine chest with brass finish pulls sat immediately inside the door to his right. A black wrought iron bed frame supported a twin mattress and sat against the right back wall.
Another chest of drawers with faded varnish and supported by short cabriole legs was pushed into the far left corner. A second twin bed with four corner wooden posts was placed on the left wall. A large, faded green duffel bag with a shoulder strap and snap-hook closure was lying on the bed. Clearly Graham’s roommate had already arrived and claimed the furniture on the left side of the room. A square, cream-colored writing table and a high-backed wooden chair sat under the front window.
Placing his day pack on the wrought iron bed and his framed backpack on the floor, Graham started to remove his personal belongings and place them into the chest of drawers. The door swung open abruptly, and a man walked in with a towel draped over his shoulder carrying a leather zippered bag.
“Hello there!” the young man said cheerfully. “Looks like we’re roommates. I’m Kevin.”
“Graham. Pleased to meet you.”
“I just arrived a few hours ago. The wash house is the building in the center. Everyone shares the toilets, sinks, and showers. It’s not too bad. But I was never able to get much hot water for my shower.” Kevin sat on his bed and used the towel to dry his sandy-blond hair. “Where are you from?”
“Pennsylvania. I grew up near Gettysburg. How about you?”
“Oregon. Near Corvallis. I’m majoring in fisheries and wildlife science at OSU.”
“Seems like we have similar interests. I’m a forestry major at Penn State.”
“What job did you sign up for?” Kevin asked as he combed his wet, tousled hair.
“Dock helper. I didn’t want to be stuck with a job where I had to spend most of my time inside. How ’bout you?”
“Fishing guide,” Kevin replied. “I’m fortunate to get that position. I’ve been fishing the streams and rivers all over Oregon and Washington state since I was a small boy. I think my experience helped me land the job.”
Graham felt a twinge of jealousy. The dock-helper job was superior to a waiter or cook. But a fishing guide? He didn’t even remember seeing that opportunity on the list of seasonal jobs. He quickly reminded himself he wasn’t qualified to be a guide—unless occasionally using worms to catch sunfish, bluegills, and bass in the family pond could be considered fishing experience.
“The employee dining hall opens for dinner soon. Would you like to walk over with me?” Kevin asked.
“Sure. Just let me unpack a few more things, and we can go. I’m pretty hungry.”
The roommates walked across the road to the Yellowstone Lake Hotel and were directed by the front desk to the employees’ dining area, which was a cafeteria with several rows of wooden tables placed end to end. Graham talked with other college students over dinner and learned they hailed from all parts of the country. One of the students at his table named Mike had also signed up to be a dock helper, but neither of the young men knew how many others had been hired for the same job.
After dinner, Graham walked to the front of the four-story, yellow clapboard hotel and stood under one of the Ionic column porticoes to admire Yellowstone Lake. The surface of the lake was placid despite a slight evening breeze that prompted Graham to zip his jacket. He leaned against the white railing and surveyed the eastern sky, where white-capped mountains provided a spectacular backdrop. An island protruded from the lake about two miles south of the hotel.
As dusk settled over the lake, Graham shook himself from his reverie and started walking back to his room. This was a vast and magnificent land. A sacred land. He couldn’t wait to explore the lake, hike the trails, and discover the myriad of thermal features in the park—including the Mud Volcano and the Dragon’s Mouth.
Chapter 8
June, 1971
Name tags were arranged in neat rows on a table outside the first-floor conference room of the hotel. The first name and home state of each employee were embossed on a red label and attached to a white plastic badge with the company logo. Graham and Kevin waited in line with two dozen other seasonal employees to register and receive a packet of information about employment with the Yellowstone Park Company.
The new employees chatted and introduced themselves as they gathered in the room with rows of chairs facing a white screen. After reviewing administrative details about work hours, pay checks, and human-resource policies, the director for seasonal employment introduced a park ranger.
“Hello, folks. Welcome to Yellowstone—America’s first national park! My name is Merrill Beech, and I have been a full-time ranger in Yellowstone for twenty-six years. This morning, I want to briefly share information on three topics: the history of the park, thermal activity, and how to stay safe while living and working here. My goal is to give you an appreciation of the wonderland we call Yellowstone. I encourage you to read more about these topics in the small library here or by picking up the free materials at any ranger or park information station.”
The ranger switched on the light of an overhead projector and placed the first transparency film on the glass. It was a photograph of the Obsidian Cliff located between Mammoth Hot Springs and Norris. Merrill explained obsidian is found in volcanic areas where the magma is rich in silica. When the lava cools, it creates black, glass-like rock that can be shaped into objects with thin edges.
He handed samples of smooth obsidian arrow tips to employees sitting in the front row and asked them to share with everyone. “The black, brown, and gray colors of the pieces you are holding are typical of the Obsidian Cliff. A small amount of obsidian collected from this area has a green color. These arrow tips represent archaeological evidence humans have been present in the Yellowstone region for at least eleven thousand years.
“You may wonder which Native American tribes are associated with this area. Quite a few. They include the Kiowa, Crow, Lakota Sioux, Shoshone, Blackfeet, Bannock, and many others.” Merrill displayed a grainy photo of a Crow family posed in front of a tepee. Graham gazed at the photo on the screen and found it inspiring to be in the land of Redfield’s ancestors.
“Some historians speculate these tribes feared the geysers and hot springs because native people believed these thermal features were the work of angry spirits. More recent research indicates this land has always been respected and revered by native people. Most consider it sacred.”
The ranger spoke briefly about some notable historical events including the first trappers and fur traders in the 1700s, a gold strike northwest of Yellowstone in 1862, and the Washburn expedition in 1870.
“I want to spend a little more time discussing the Hayden Expedition in 1871 because of its significance in the formation of the park. One hundred years ago, Congress appropriated forty thousand dollars for an expedition led by Ferdinand Hayden of the US Geological Survey. His survey team was given three principal objectives. The first goal was to secure scientific and practical information regarding the geological, zoological, botanical, and agricultural resources of the territory. The expedition was also instructed to prepare a geological map and send any collected specimens to the Smithsonian Institution. Finally, congressional sponsors requested Hayden collect or create as many paintings, illustrations, sketches, and photographs as possible.
“Thirty-five men were recruited for the Hayden Expedition from a wide variety of scientific disciplines. These included botany, meteorology, zoology, ornithology, geology, topography, and entomology. The large survey team required a tremendous amount of practical and logistical support. Team members were enlisted as cooks, mule-team drivers, hostlers, hunters, and guides. It required twenty-seven horses, twenty-one mules, five mule wagons, and two horse-drawn ambulances. The party relied upon a large military escort to guard against hostile Indians, and this group of men from the Second Cavalry nearly doubled the size of the expedition.” Merrill displayed a photo of a long pack train traveling along the edge of Mirror Lake in August 1871.
“There were many significant accomplishments of this expedition, which spent thirty-six days exploring the region that is now the park. Among the most politically impactful achievements were the numerous paintings of Thomas Moran.” The park ranger displayed a transparency of Moran’s majestic seven-feet-by-twelve-feet oil-on-canvas painting currently displayed at the Smithsonian Museum of American Art.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone by Thomas Moran
“The collection of photographs by William Henry Jackson was also invaluable.” A crisp black-and-white photograph of Mammoth Hot Springs was illuminated on the projector.
“These visual depictions of Yellowstone brought to life natural wonders that had previously been described only verbally or with rough sketches. As a result, just six months after the conclusion of the Hayden Expedition, President Grant signed the Yellowstone National Park Protection Act into law on March 1, 1872. Next year will mark Yellowstone’s one-hundredth birthday!”
The crowd in the room clapped, and someone started singing “Happy Birthday.” Soon everyone joined in.
Merrill placed a classic photo of Old Faithful on the projector. “Okay, now let me say a few words about thermal activity in the park. Over ten thousand thermal features, including twelve hundred geysers, are in the Yellowstone region. The hydrothermal system that supplies the geysers with hot water sits within an ancient active caldera formed over six hundred thousand years ago with a giant volcanic explosion.
“Yellowstone Park is one of the most seismically active areas in the United States. Thousands of earthquakes occur each year in the Yellowstone area. Most of these are small and tend to occur close together in time and space. Every couple of years, a larger-magnitude earthquake occurs that can cause significant damage.
“Visitors come to see the unique thermal features in the park. But please be careful. Boardwalks and trails protect you and the thermal formations. Hot water from springs can cause severe or fatal burns, and scalding water underlies most of the thin crust around hot springs. Let me remind you of a few safety rules when walking near or around any of these geysers, fumaroles, hot springs, or mud pots.” The park ranger put a list of rules on the projector.
Always walk on boardwalks and designated trails.
Don’t touch thermal features or runoff.
Swimming or soaking in hot springs is prohibited.
Pets are prohibited in thermal areas.
Toxic gases may accumulate to dangerous levels in some hydrothermal areas. If you begin to feel sick while exploring one of the geyser basins, leave the area immediately.
“Take these rules seriously. More than twenty people have died from burns suffered after they fell into Yellowstone’s hot springs. Any questions about thermal-feature safety?”
No one raised his or her hand. Graham wondered whether this response meant the people in the room understood the rules or were simply indifferent.
“The last thing I want to discuss is wild animals. We have some unique mammals residing in the park year round. You are probably aware of most of them. I want to specifically comment on our bear population. Most visitors want to see a bear, but this animal’s behavior is unpredictable. All of Yellowstone is bear habitat, even the developed areas. So, here are some bear safety tips.” The ranger put another slide on the overhead.
Never pursue a bear to take its picture. When viewing bears along roads, stay in or near your car.
Keep all food, garbage, and other scented items stored in bear-proof containers.
If a bear approaches your car, honk your horn and drive away to discourage this behavior.
Follow best practices for hiking in bear country. Be alert, make noise, hike in groups, do not run.
“I want to add something about their food. Bears are omnivores; they eat almost anything. But they especially love huckleberries and seeds from whitebark pine cones. These plants provide high-energy food sources. If you are hiking in an area where either of these plants or trees is prevalent, be alert.
“I will be glad to answer any questions you have,” Merrill concluded as he turned off the projector.
A hand shot up from a young man in a flannel shirt sitting in the front row. “Can you explain why you should not run from a bear?”
“Sure. If a bear notices you, talk calmly so the bear knows you are a human and not a prey animal. Remain still. Stand your ground but slowly wave your arms. Help the bear recognize you as a human. Most bears do not want to attack you. They usually want to be left alone. Running or a sudden movement could trigger an attack. By the way, no one can outrun a bear.”
Another young man spoke up. “But what if the bear does attack? What then?”
The park ranger cleared his throat before speaking. “You should recognize a bear sometimes bluffs an attack. These types of charges are meant to scare or intimidate. When a bear ‘bluff-charges,’ it will have its head and ears up and forward. The bear will puff itself up to look bigger. It will bound toward you on its front paws but stop short. Often, bears retreat after a bluff charge or make loud noises.
“If you see a bluff charge is about to occur, slowly back away while waving your arms above your head and speak to the bear in a calm voice. When the bear charges you, hold your ground and stay calm. After the bear charges, walk slowly backward while watching the bear. Continue to speak to the bear in a calm voice. Do not run during a bluff charge. It may trigger the bear to attack. Stand your ground.
“On the other hand, aggressive charges are dangerous. If the bear clacks its teeth and pounds its front paws on the ground while huffing, these behaviors indicate it is stressed. These are signs the bear may be getting ready to charge. It will have its head down and ears pointed back. When the bear charges, it will run fast and directly at you.
“If a
ttacked, your best strategy depends on the type of bear. If it is a black bear, try to escape to a secure place such as a car or building. If escape is not possible, try to fight back using anything available. Concentrate your kicks and blows on the bear’s face and muzzle.
“If you are attacked by a grizzly, leave your pack on and play dead. Lie flat on your stomach with your hands clasped behind your neck, or curl into a ball on your side and protect your head with your hands. Remain still until the bear leaves the area. Fighting back usually increases the intensity of the attack. Fight back only as a last resort.
“If any bear attacks you in your tent, or stalks you and then attacks, do not play dead. Fight back! This kind of attack is rare. But it can be serious. It means the bear is looking for food and sees you as prey.”
“Look, here’s the bottom line. The best way to avoid a serious encounter with a bear—or bison or moose—is to be smart around these animals,” the park ranger concluded.
Graham heard echoes of the cowboy’s initial words of advice. Don’t be stupid around animals.
* * *
Wispy white clouds scudded across a deep-blue sky as the van drove along the lakeshore toward Bridge Bay Marina a few miles from the Yellowstone Lake Hotel. Graham climbed from the van along with seven other passengers and joined another group clustered together in the parking lot.
A middle-aged man wearing a Western-style shirt, jeans, vest, and a wide-brimmed cowboy hat was holding a clipboard. He called out names and checked them off before addressing the group.
“My name is Jeff Martindale, and I’m the director of marina operations. Welcome to Bridge Bay. You twelve are my dockhands. First order of business is getting the boats ready for the season. We have twenty rental boats and three scenicruisers that need to be prepped before the marina opens to the public in three days. Let’s get to work. Follow me,” he said, walking toward a blue prefab steel building on the north side of the marina.
Burning Ground Page 10
