Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  zFestivals & Events

  Bucharest International Film FestivalFILM

  (www.b-iff.ro; hApr)

  Bucharest's international film festival focuses on offbeat, art-house fare from up-and-coming directors.

  Bucharest PrideLGBT

  (www.bucharestpride.ro; hJun)

  The city's annual gay pride festival, with events, films and dance nights around Bucharest.

  Balkanik Music FestivalMUSIC

  (www.balkanikfestival.ro; hSep)

  Outdoor festival of world music, drawing top acts and singers from across Europe over several days in early September.

  George Enescu Music FestivalMUSIC

  (www.festivalenescu.ro; hSep)

  Prestigious classical music festival, attracting some of the best orchestras and performers from around the world to perform at the Romanian Athenaeum.

  International Theatre Festival for ChildrenTHEATRE

  (www.teatrulioncreanga.ro; hOct)

  Bucharest's Ion Creangă Theatre is the host organisation for this International Children's Festival (www.fitc.ro) that brings troupes from around the world.

  4Sleeping

  Hotels in Bucharest are typically aimed at business people, and prices are higher than in the rest of the country; booking in advance may help secure a discount. Room rates can drop by as much as half in midsummer (July and August), which is widely considered low season. The situation with hostels continues to improve and Bucharest now has some of the best cheap lodging in the country.

  Historic Centre & Around

  oLittle Bucharest Old Town HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0786-329 136; www.littlebucharest.ro; Str Smârdan 15; dm 50-60 lei, r 250 lei; niW; mPiaţa Unirii)

  Bucharest's most central hostel, in the middle of the lively Historic Centre, is super clean, white walled and well-run. Accommodation is over two floors, with dorms ranging from six to 12 beds. Private doubles are also available. The staff is travel friendly and youth oriented and can advise on sightseeing and fun. Book over the website or by email.

  Pura Vida Sky Bar & HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0786-329 134; www.sky.puravidahostels.ro; Str Smârdan 7; dm 50-60 lei; mUniversitate)

  Stylish, well-run hostel, situated on the edge of the city's historic centre. Accommodation is in four-, six- or eight-bunk dorms. Beds are standard-issue pinewood, but the walls have been given a dash of colour. The main drawcard is the rooftop bar, with awesome views out over the centre. Even if you're not staying here, stop by for a drink.

  oRembrandt HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 9315; www.rembrandt.ro; Str Smârdan 11; s/d tourist 180/230 lei, standard 260/300 lei, business 350/380 lei; naiW; mUniversitate)

  It’s hard to say enough good things about this place. Stylish beyond its three-star rating, this 16-room, Dutch-run hotel faces the landmark National Bank in the Historic Centre. Rooms come in three categories – tourist, standard and business – with the chief difference being size. All rooms have polished wooden floors, timber headboards and DVD players. Book well in advance.

  Hotel OperaHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-312 4855; www.hotelopera.ro; Str Ion Brezoianu 37; s/d 400/500 lei; pnaW; mUniversitate)

  Set on a backstreet corner, this 33-room, faintly art deco hotel plays on the early-20th-century theme with historic artwork on the walls and porcelain and brass decorative objects in the rooms. Rooms come in 'standard' and slightly more-expensive 'executive' flavours, though in practice there's little difference between the two. Ask about lower weekend rates available most weeks throughout the year.

  Hotel AmzeiHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 9400; www.hotelamzei.ro; Piaţa Amzei 8; s/d 450/550 lei; naW; mPiaţa Romană)

  This tastefully reconstructed villa just off Calea Victoriei has 22 rooms on four floors. The wrought-iron atrium in the lobby lends a refined feel. The rooms are in a more restrained contemporary style, but everything about the place says quality.

  Outside the Historic Centre

  Don’t be put off by choices that aren’t near the historic core of Bucharest. Many of the city’s best options – including hostels – are just outside the centre.

  Midland Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314 5323; www.themidlandhostel.com; Str Biserica Amzei 22; dm 40-60 lei; naiW; mPiaţa Romană)

  A happening hostel, with an excellent central location not far from popular Piaţa Amzei. Accommodation is in four-, eight- or 12-bed dorms. There’s a common kitchen too.

  DoorsHOSTEL$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-336 2127; www.doorshostel.com; Str Olimpului 13; dm 45-60 lei, d 150 lei; niW; mPiaţa Unirii)

  One of the better hostels in Bucharest is a 15-minute walk southwest of Piaţa Unirii, with a quiet, residential location and a beautiful garden set up like a Moroccan tea room. There are four-, six- and eight-bed dorms, and one private double. Friendly and welcoming staff.

  Vila ArteBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-210 1035; www.vilaarte.ro; Str Vasile Lascăr 78; s/d 260/320 lei; naiW; mPiaţa Romană, j5, 21)

  A renovated villa transformed into an excellent-value boutique hotel stuffed with original art that pushes the envelope on design and colour at this price point. The services are top drawer and the helpful reception makes every guest feel special. The ‘Ottoman’ room is done in an updated Turkish style, with deep-red spreads and fabrics, and oriental carpets.

  Berthelot HotelHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-425 5860; www.hotelberthelot.ro; Str General Berthelot 9; s/d 360/450 lei; naiW; mPiaţa Romană)

  This modern boutique hotel offers bright and clean rooms, with air-conditioning and LCD TVs. The location, just off the Calea Victoriei, is in the heart of the city’s fashion and boutique quarter, and is excellent for shopping. The rack rates put this property between midrange and top end, but look out for discounts that practically put it in the budget category.

  Gara de Nord & Around

  Though the area around the Gara de Nord is not the most appealing, there are several decent accommodation options within an easy walk of the station.

  Puzzle HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733-128 887; www.puzzlehostel.ro; Calea Griviței 32; dm 30-40 lei, d from 120 lei; naiW; mGara de Nord)

  Cheap, clean and within easy walking distance of the train station are three solid reasons for choosing one of the city's better hostels. Puzzle offers high-quality mattresses in multibunk (16-, eight- and six-bed) dorms as well as good-value private doubles. There are the usual hostel amenities, including a lounge where you can get a pre-party drink.

  Vila 11GUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722-495 900; www.vila11bucharest.com; Str Institutul Medico Militar 11; dm 45 lei, s/d 90/120 lei; nai; mGara de Nord)

  Run by a welcoming expat family, this homey pensiune is on a backstreet a few minutes' walk from the main train station. There are good-value six-bed dorms as well as private singles and doubles – some with en suite baths. Ask for a top-floor room, with pretty views and air-conditioning, but watch the narrow stairways.

  Hotel ElizeuHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-319 1734; www.hotelelizeu.ro; Str Elizeu 11-13; s/d 160/240 lei; aiW; mGara de Nord)

  This 54-room hotel within easy walking distance of the main train station is comfortable and modern, with quiet rooms, minibar and decent buffet breakfast (included).

  SHORT-TERM APARTMENT STAYS

  A short-term apartment rental makes sense if you’re planning to stay longer than three days. Prices are generally cheaper than hotels, and you get a functioning kitchen and washing machine so you can regain control over your diet and dirty clothes at the same time. Note that you’ll usually have to pay cash up front (sometimes in euros), so make sure you get a good look at the place before turning over your money. Most of the apartments are a little worn, but serviceable. The longer your stay, the more negotiating power you have ove
r price. Two reputable renters include Cert Accommodation (%0720-772 772; www.cert-accommodation.ro; apt 250-500 lei) and RoCazare (%0721-430 000; www.rocazare.ro; apt from 225 lei).

  5Eating

  Bucharest has the country's most varied dining scene, with excellent restaurants featuring mostly Romanian cuisine supplemented by very good Italian, Middle Eastern and contemporary international places. The Historic Centre is crammed with restaurants, though the best places to eat tend to be scattered in neighbourhoods outside of the immediate centre. Dress is mainly casual, with the exception of a small number of high-priced, fine-dining establishments.

  Historic Centre

  oCaru’ cu BereROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 7560; www.carucubere.ro; Str Stavropoleos 3-5; mains 20-45 lei; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  Despite a decidedly touristy-leaning atmosphere, with peasant-girl hostesses and sporadic traditional song-and-dance numbers, Bucharest’s oldest beer house continues to draw in a strong local crowd. The colourful belle-époque interior and stained-glass windows dazzle, as does the classic Romanian food. Dinner reservations are essential.

  Women in Romanian traditional dress | Salajean / Shutterstock ©

  Les BourgeoisBISTRO$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720-132 994; www.lesbourgeois.ro; Str Smârdan 20; mains 20-65 lei; h9am-2am; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  French bistro–styled place with a mouth-watering range of salads as well as chicken, fish and beef dishes. The lamb chops will not disappoint. It also serves a handy bacon-and-egg breakfast (29 lei). Eat on the terrace along a bustling corner of the Historic Centre.

  St GeorgeHUNGARIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0787-605 900; www.saint-george.ro; Str Franceză 44; mains 20-45 lei; h10.30am-midnight; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  A festive and popular restaurant offering Hungarian and Transylvanian specialities on a lively strip in the old town. The cuisine – mainly flavourful stews and pork dishes – tends towards the heavy side, but you can wash it down with some very good wine. There's a big terrace out front.

  oLacrimi și SfințiROMANIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0725-558 286; www.lacrimisisfinti.com; Str Șepcari 16; mains 30-50 lei; h12.30pm-2am Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am Mon; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  A true destination restaurant in the Historic Centre, Lacrimi și Sfinți takes modern trends such as farm-to-table freshness and organic sourcing and marries them to old-school Romanian recipes. The philosophy extends to the simple, peasant-inspired interior, where the woodworking and decorative elements come from old farmhouses. The result is food that feels authentic and satisfying. Book in advance.

  Outside the Historic Centre

  ModelierBURGERS$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0799-630 693; www.facebook.com/modelierbar; Str Duzilor 12; burgers 18-25 lei; h1pm-2am; j70, 79)

  Artisanal burgers, some of the city's best French fries and homemade lemonade served in oversized carafes are a few of the main draws at this hipsterish, culture-centre-cum-restaurant located in a residential neighbourhood east of the centre. Warm summer evenings draw DJ and movie nights.

  Shift PubINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-211 2272; www.shiftpub.ro; Str General Eremia Grigorescu 17; mains 25-40 lei; hnoon-2am; mPiaţa Romană)

  Great choice for salads and burgers as well numerous beef and pork dishes, often sporting novel Asian, Middle Eastern or Mexican taste touches. Try to arrive slightly before meal times to grab a coveted table in the tree-covered garden.

  Lente PraporgescuINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-310 7424; www.lente.ro; Str Gen Praporgescu 31; mains 25-40 lei; h11.30am-1am; W; mPiaţa Romană)

  The main branch of three 'Lente' restaurants scattered around the city centre. The recipe for all three is broadly the same: inventive soups and salads, an eclectic design of mismatched chairs and old books, and a relaxed, vaguely alternative vibe. A terrific choice for lunch or a casual dinner. The garden terrace offers respite on a hot day.

  Gargantua In The ParkITALIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-555 688; www.restaurantgargantua.ro; Str Jean-Louis Calderon 69; mains 30-55 lei; h9am-midnight; mPiaţa Romană)

  The peaceful setting, at the tip of Icoanei Park, is the perfect perch from which to enjoy well done Italian and international dishes, including the requisite pizza and pasta, but also delicious lamb chops, steaks and seafood. The wine list draws from some of the best local producers, and on a warm evening the terrace is a nice spot to enjoy it.

  BurebistaROMANIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0756-717 649; www.restaurantvanatoresc.ro; Str Batiştei 14; mains 40-60 lei; hnoon-midnight; mUniversitate)

  This is a touristy, traditional grill restaurant, where the staff don 19th-century peasant-wear and everything feels kind of forced. On the other hand, the traditional food is excellent and the terrace is a relaxing spot for a beer and some grilled meats.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Drinking options can be roughly broken down into cafes and bars, though there's little distinction in practice. The Historic Centre has more places to drink (and more clubs) than one could visit in a month. In summer, look for a terrace, usually in a secluded spot under a canopy of trees.

  Historic Centre

  Old CityBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0729-377 774; www.oldcity-bucharest.ro; Str Şelari 14; h10am-4am; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  This remains one of the favourite go-to bars in the old town; most nights, especially weekends, bring big crowds and themed dance parties. There's a large, handsome bar area and plenty of pavement seating in nice weather.

  Fire ClubBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-166 604; www.fire.ro; Str Gabroveni 12; h10am-4am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  A crowded student-oriented bar and rock club that's much less flash and more relaxed than some of the other venues around the Historic Centre town.

  St PatrickPUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 0336; www.stpatrick.ro; Str Smârdan 23-25; h11am-2am; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  This popular pub has the authentic Irish bar look down, with dark woods and a green ceiling. Grab a table on busy Str Smârdan and settle back with a pint of Guinness or cider. They also do good renditions of standards such as steak and kidney pie (29 lei) and Irish breakfast (29 lei).

  Grand Cafe Van GoghCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-107 6371; www.vangogh.ro; Str Smârdan 9; h8.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun; W; mUniversitate)

  This well-positioned and lively cafe stands at the entrance to the old town. Very good coffee and other drinks. It also prepares light meals such as breakfasts and burgers as well as daily luncheon specials.

  Outside the Historic Centre

  oGrădina VeronaCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-003 060; www.facebook.com/GradinaVerona; Str Pictor Verona 13-15; h9am-midnight May-Sep; W; mPiaţa Romană)

  A garden oasis hidden behind the Cărtureşti bookshop, serving standard-issue but excellent espresso drinks and some of the wackiest iced-tea infusions ever concocted in Romania, such as peony flower, mango and lime (it’s not bad).

  M60CAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-410 0010; www.facebook.com/m60cafeamzei/; Str Mendeleev 2; h10am-1am; W; mPiaţa Romană)

  M60 is a category-buster, transforming through the day from one of the city's preeminent morning coffee houses to a handy lunch spot (healthy salads and vegetarian options) and then morphing into a meet-up and drinks bar in the evening. It's been a hit since opening day, as city residents warmed to its clean, minimalist Scandinavian design and living-room feel.

  OrigoCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0757-086 689; https://origocoffee.ro; Str Lipscani 9; h7.30am-8pm Mon, to midnight Tue-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W; mPiaţa Unirii)

  Arguably the best coffee in town and the best place to hang out in the morning, grab a table and check your email. Lots of special coffee roasts and an unlimited number of w
ays to imbibe. There are a dozen pavement tables for relaxing on a sunny day.

  Grădina EdenBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/gradinaeden107; Calea Victoriei 107, Palatul Știrbey; h4pm-midnight May-Sep; mPiaţa Romană)

  A delightful summertime drinking garden hidden behind the derelict Știrbey Palace. To find it, enter the gate to the palace and follow a worn footpath that runs along the palace's right side. The garden is tucked away behind some trees at the back. Line up at the bar for beer, wine or fresh lemonade, find a table and chill.

  Dianei 4CAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-208 186; www.dianei4.translucid.ro; Str Dianei 4; h10am-11pm; mUniversitate)

  Popular cafe and drinking garden, just off busy B-dul Carol 1. Choose from a broad menu of well-pulled espressos as well as breakfasts (around 20 lei) until noon, and salads and sandwiches throughout the day. The garden has the feel of a well-tended squat, lending a welcome alternative vibe.