Seneca AnticafeCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0720-331 100; www.senecanticafe.ro; Str Arhitect Ion Mincu 1; per hr 8 lei; h9am-10pm; W; j24, 42, 45)
A perfect spot to mix coffee with a little work. Seneca is something like a cross between a cafe and a shared co-office workspace, where you pay 8 lei per hour for unlimited coffee as well as wi-fi and a desk to work on. It's also a bookshop and cultural centre, and the staff couldn't be friendlier or more welcoming.
Piua Book BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-108 1011; Str Dionisie Lupu 76; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat & Sun; mPiaţa Romană)
Piua is a real gender-bender: part used bookshop, part ultracool cocktail bar, and occasionally a live music venue as well. It's situated in a renovated old mansion, and the polished floors and rickety stairs still squeak as you move from room to room. Plenty of old chairs and beanbags to lounge around on.
3Entertainment
Bucharest has a lively night scene of concerts, theatre, rock and jazz. Check the weekly guide Şapte Seri (www.sapteseri.ro) for entertainment listings. Another good source for what’s on is the website www.iconcert.ro. To buy tickets online, visit the websites of the leading ticketing agencies: www.myticket.ro and www.eventim.ro.
DON'T MISS
ARCUB CULTURAL CENTRE
Situated in the renovated former Gabroveni Inn, ARCUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-669 928; www.arcub.ro; Str Lipscani 84-90; hticket office 3-8pm Tue-Fri, 6-8pm Sat & Sun; mPiaţa Unirii) is a multidisciplinary cultural centre, with a regular line-up of art exhibitions, happenings, performances and occasional film screenings. Check the website to see if something interesting is on during your visit. Buy tickets at the venue box office.
Cinemas
Most films are shown in their original language. Check www.cinemagia.ro for film information.
Cinemateca EforieCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 0483; Str Eforie 2; tickets 12 lei; mPiaţa Unirii)
Plays an eclectic and often amusing mix of art-house, kitsch and Romanian films.
Cinema ProCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-824 1360; www.cinemapro.ro; Str Ion Ghica 3; tickets 10-16 lei; mUniversitate)
Shows first-run features from Romania and big films from around the world.
Classical Music
The Romanian Athenaeum is the heart of Romania’s classical music tradition and home to the George Enescu Philharmonic. It offers a wide array of classical music concerts from September to May as well as a number of one-off musical shows and spectacles throughout the year. Buy tickets at the venue box office.
Bucharest National Opera HouseOPERA
(Opera Naţională Bucureşti; GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 021-310 2661; www.operanb.ro; B-dul Mihail Kogălniceanu 70-72; tickets 10-70 lei; hbox office 9am-1pm & 3-7pm; mEroilor)
The city's premier venue for classical opera and ballet. Buy tickets online or at the venue box office.
Nightclubs & Live Music
Expect to pay a cover at the door of anywhere from 5 to 25 lei, which may or may not include a drink.
ControlLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733-927 861; www.control-club.ro; Str Constantin Mille 4; hnoon-4am; W; mUniversitate)
This is a favourite among club-goers who like alternative, turbo-folk, indie and garage sounds. Hosts both live acts and DJs, depending on the night.
Club ALIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 0744-517 858; www.cluba.ro; Str Blănari 14; h9pm-5am Thu-Sun; mPiaţa Unirii)
Run by students, this underground club is a classic and beloved by all who go there. Most weekends bring live music, with anything from rock and pop to blues and alternative.
Green Hours 22LIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %bar reservations 0751-772 275; www.greenhours.ro; Calea Victoriei 120; h9am-4am; mPiaţa Romană)
This old-school basement jazz club runs a lively programme of jazz and experimental theatre most nights through the week, and hosts an international jazz fest in May/June. There's also a popular bar, bistro and garden terrace. Check the website for the schedule during your trip and book in advance by email.
Spectator Sports
Bucharest is home to several local football (soccer) clubs; the two main ones are rivals Steaua Bucureşti and Dinamo Bucureşti. Both play in the country’s top division, Liga I. The football season runs from the end of July through the following May, and catching a match during your visit is easy. With the exception of grudge matches between the two, the games rarely sell out. Steaua plays its matches at the National Arena, (Arena Națională, Steaua FC; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-410 2082, tickets 0752-120 171; www.steauafc.com; B-dul Basarabia 37-39; tickets 20-100 lei; hticket office 10am-5pm Mon-Fri; j40, 56) while Dinamo normally plays at Dinamo Stadium ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fcdinamo.ro; Şos Ştefan cel Mare 7-9; tickets 10-35 lei; hbox office noon-7pm match day; mŞtefan cel Mare). Buy tickets for both teams in advance at their respective stadium box offices or at the ticket window before matches. Most international matches, including those involving the Romanian national team, are played at the National Arena.
Theatre
Bucharest’s theatres offer a lively mix of comedy, farce, satire and straight contemporary plays in a variety of languages, though they're normally in Romanian. Tickets usually cost no more than 40 lei. Theatres close in July and August.
National Theatre of BucharestTHEATRE
(Teatrul Naţional Bucureşti; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 021-314 7171, theatre 021-313 9175; www.tnb.ro; B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 2; hbox office 10am-4pm Mon, to 7pm Tue-Sun; mUniversitate)
The National Theatre is the country's most prestigious dramatic stage. The building is a 1970s-era big box that's gotten a long-overdue facelift; the facilities inside are excellent. Most dramatic works are performed in Romanian. Check the website for the programme during your visit. Buy tickets online or at the box office.
Jewish State TheatreTHEATRE
(Teatrul Evreiesc de Stat; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 0721-313 736; www.teatrul-evreiesc.ro; Str Iuliu Barasch 15; tickets 12-30 lei; hbox office 10am-noon Mon-Thu; mPiaţa Unirii)
Plays in Romanian and Yiddish.
7Shopping
oAnthony FrostBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-311 5136; www.anthonyfrost.ro; Calea Victoriei 45; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, to 2pm Sun; mUniversitate)
Serious readers will want to make time for arguably the best small English-language bookshop in Eastern Europe. Located in a small passage next to the Creţulescu Church, this shop has a carefully chosen selection of highbrow contemporary fiction and nonfiction.
VinexpertWINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-481 307; www.vinexpert.ro; Calea Victoriei 155; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat, noon-10pm Sun; mPiaţa Victoriei)
Beautiful, well-stocked wine shop with a comprehensive selection of Romanian and foreign wines, plus knowledgable salespeople to help you sort it out. In addition to selling wine by the bottle, they also dispense wine by the glass, paired with delicious cheese plates for tastings.
Cărtureşti VeronaBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0728 828 916; www.carturesti.ro; Str Pictor Verona 13-15, cnr B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu; h10am-10pm; mPiaţa Romană)
This bookshop, music store, tea room and funky backyard garden is a must-visit. Amazing collection of design, art and architecture books, as well as carefully selected CDs and DVDs, including many classic Romanian films with English subtitles. Also sells Lonely Planet guidebooks.
Târgul Vitan-BârzeștiMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Șos Vitan-Bârzești, cnr Splaiul Unirii; h8am-4pm Sun; g123)
A sprawling flea market operates here, southeast of the centre, on Sundays till 4pm. Come early to get the best deals on everything from antique jewellery, books and knick-knacks to used cars. Even if you're not in the mood to buy, the energy is infectious.
Ethic WineWINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-367 2283; www.ethicwine.ro; Str Banul Ant
onache 55; h1pm-9pm Mon, 10am-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; g135)
Impressive wine shop and tasting room, featuring some of the best Romanian wines as well as a carefully chosen list of international producers. Labels here to look out for include Bauer, Avincis and Prince Știrbey from Drăgășani and Chateau Vartely from neighbouring Moldova.
Cărtureşti CaruselBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0728-828 922; www.carturesti.ro; Str Lipscani 55; h10am-midnight; mPiaţa Unirii)
This impressive branch of the Cărtureşti chain of books and gifts is located in an opulent, restored early-20th-century shopping emporium in the Historic Centre. Books are on several levels and there's a decent selection of English-language titles.
Str Hanul cu TeiGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-8pm; mPiaţa Unirii)
The little courtyard Str Hanul cu Tei is a hidden passageway in the Historic Centre with a few art galleries and art supply and antique shops. Enter from Str Blănari 5 or Str Lipscani 63.
8Information
Emergency
AAmbulance, Fire & Police (112) Some operators know a smattering of English.
Internet Access
Best Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-312 4816; www.best-cafe.ro; B-dul Mihail Kogălniceanu 19; per hr 5 lei; h24hr; W; mIzvor)
Seneca Anticafe
Media
International newspapers can usually be found at newsagents in major hotels.
Bucharest In Your Pocket (www.inyourpocket.com) Bimonthly guide to Bucharest (there's a cover price, though you can usually find it free at big hotels). Opinionated and often-funny entertainment and restaurant listings.
Nine O’Clock (www.nineoclock.ro) Informative English-language news website with sections on politics, economics and culture.
Şapte Seri (www.sapteseri.ro) Weekly publication and website with entertainment listings; find it at bars and clubs around town.
Medical Services
You'll find pharmacies all over the centre. Sensi-Blu is a highly recommended chain with branches around town, including on Calea Victoriei ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-303 0267; www.sensiblu.com; Calea Victoriei 12a; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; mUniversitate).
Emergency Clinic Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-599 2300; www.scub.ro; Calea Floreasca 8; h24hr; mŞtefan cel Mare) The first port of call in any serious emergency. Arguably the city's, and country's, best emergency hospital.
Medicover ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-9896, 021-310 1599; www.medicover.ro; Calea Plevnei 96; h8am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; mEroilor) Good, but expensive, private clinic.
Prodentcare ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0724-873 551; www.prodentalcare.ro; Calea Rahovei 251-253; h24hr; j23, 32) Offering dental care.
Money
Bank branches and ATMs are widespread in the centre. Credit cards are widely accepted, so there's no need to withdraw and carry large amounts of cash.
Most banks have a currency-exchange office and can provide cash advances against credit or debit cards. Always bring your passport, since you will likely have to show it. Most banks operate only on weekdays, though some may have limited Saturday morning hours.
Outside of normal banking hours, you can change money at private currency booths (casa de schimb). There is a row of these along B-dul Gen Gheorghe Magheru, running north of Piaţa Universităţii. We generally don’t recommend using these, as the rates they offer tend to be the same as or lower than the banks', often with higher commission fees. If you do exchange money at a private booth, before you surrender your cash, tell the cashier exactly what you want to exchange and ask him or her to write down the amount you will receive in lei. You'll usually have to show a passport here as well.
Post
Branch Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.posta-romana.ro; Str Gării de Nord 6-8; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; mGara de Nord)
Central Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315 9030; www.posta-romana.ro; Str Matei Millo 10; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; mUniversitate)
Tourist Information
Bucharest Tourist Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %ext 1003 021-305 5500; http://seebucharest.ro; Piaţa Universităţii; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun; mUniversitate) This small, poorly stocked tourist office is the best the city can offer visitors. While there's not much information on hand, the English-speaking staff can field basic questions, make suggestions and help locate things on a map.
Mr Tripp Private travel agency that doubles as an informal tourist information office, handing out free maps and advice, even if you're not booking one of their tours.
8Getting There & Away
Bucharest is the country's leading air gateway, and major international and European carriers fly here from around Europe and large cities in the Middle East. It's also the country's main road and rail hub.
Air
All international and domestic flights use Henri Coandă International Airport (OTP, Otopeni; GOOGLE MAP ; %arrivals 021-204 1220, departures 021-204 1210; www.bucharestairports.ro; Şos Bucureşti-Ploieşti; g783), often referred to in conversation by its previous name, ‘Otopeni’. Henri Coandă is 17km north of Bucharest on the main road to Braşov. Arrivals and departures use separate terminals (arrivals is to the north). The airport is a modern facility, with restaurants, newsagents, currency exchange offices and ATMs. There are 24-hour information desks at both terminals.
The airport is the hub for the national carrier Tarom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %call centre 021-204 6464, office 021-316 0220; www.tarom.ro; Spl Independenţei 17, City Centre; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; mPiaţa Unirii). Tarom has a comprehensive network of internal flights to major Romanian cities as well to capitals and big cities around Europe and the Middle East. At the time of writing, there were no direct flights from Bucharest to North America or Southeast Asia.
Bus
Domestic Destinations
Several coach companies, large and small, dominate the market for travel from Bucharest to cities around Romania. One of the cleanest and cheapest is Memento Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0317-105 518; www.mementobus.com; Gara de Nord; h9am-7pm; mGara de Nord), a low-cost carrier that runs between major cities for as little as 5 lei per trip.
The best bet for finding a connection is to consult the websites www.autogari.ro and www.cditransport.ro. Both keep up-to-date timetables and are fairly easy to manage, though www.cditransport.ro is only in Romanian. Be sure to follow up with a phone call just to make sure a particular bus is running on a particular day. Another option is to ask your hotel to help with arrangements or book through a travel agency.
Bucharest has several bus stations and they don’t seem to follow any discernible logic for which station should serve which destination. Even Bucharest residents have a hard time making sense of it. When purchasing a bus ticket, always ask where the bus leaves from.
The chief bus ‘stations’ – some are lots or spaces by a curb – include the following:
Autogara Diego ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-311 1283; www.autogaradiego.ro; Spl Independenţiei 2; mPiaţa Unirii) Near the intersection with Calea Victoriei. Destinations include Iaşi, Piatra Neamţ and Suceava, as well as several international destinations in Western Europe.
Autogara Filaret ( GOOGLE MAP ; %buses to Bulgaria 021-335 3290, buses to Greece 021-336 6780, domestic bus services 021-336 0692; www.acfilaret.ro; Piaţa Gării Filaret 1; j7, 47) Three kilometres south of Piaţa Universităţii; take bus 7 and 232 from Piaţa Unirii. Daily service to several Romanian cities as well as points south in Greece. Buses to and from Sofia also use this station.
Autogara Militari ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0725-939 939; www.autogari.ro; Str Valea Cascadelor 1; mPăcii) Eight kilometres west of the centre. Destinations include Curtea de Argeș, Târgu Jiu and Timişoara.
CDI ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722-418 886, reservations 0723-187 789; www.cditransport.ro; Str Ritmului 35; j69, 85) Located about 3km east of Piaţa Romană, and four blocks north of metro station Piaţa Iancului. Regular services to Braşov, Tulcea, Pitești and Craiova, among other destinations.
International Destinations
> Bucharest is a hub for long-haul coach services to Western Europe as well as parts of southeastern Europe and Turkey.
Atlassib ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-222 8971, call centre 080-10 100 100; www.atlassib.ro; Str Gheorghe Duca 4; mGara de Nord) One of the country's biggest long-haul coach companies.
AEtap Grup (www.etapgroup.com) Based in Sofia, Bulgaria, this bus company runs daily between Bucharest and Sofia (about 130 lei per person one way, seven to eight hours). In Bucharest, buses depart from Autogara Filaret.
Murat Turism & Transport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0735-515 081; www.muratturism.ro; Şos Viilor 33; g173) Runs long-haul buses daily, except Saturday, to İstanbul (160 lei per person one way, about 11 hours).
Car & Motorcycle
Driving in Bucharest is sheer lunacy and you won’t want to do it for more than a few minutes before you stow the car and use public transportation. If you’re travelling around the country by car and just want to visit Bucharest for the day, it’s more sensible to park at a metro station on the outskirts and take the metro into the city.
In theory, hourly parking rates apply in the centre, particularly off Piaţa Victoriei and Piaţa Universităţii – look for the wardens in yellow-and-blue uniforms – or there's paid metered parking. In many places, though, you can just pull on to the pavement like everyone else. Petrol costs around 5 lei per litre.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 7
