Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

8BulevardC3

  9Central MarketB1

  10Sport Pub DorofteiB2

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  11Dublin PubB2

  1Sights

  Clock MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Ceasului; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-542 861; Str Nicolae Simachei 1; 8 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  The city’s unique Clock Museum has a collection of historical timepieces owned by several famous Romanians, including King Carol I, and an 18th-century rococo Austrian clock that belonged to Wallachian prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza. There's also a small collection of vintage gramophones.

  Museum of OilMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Naţional al Petrolului; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-597 585; Str Dr Bagdasar 8; 5 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  This modest museum highlights the important role of oil in the economic development of both the city and the country, especially in the 19th century when Romania was a petroleum pioneer. The technical nature of the displays will likely not appeal to all.

  Art MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul de Artă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-522 264; www.artmuseum.ro; B-dul Independenţei 1; adult/child 8/2 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  The collection at this art museum, housed in a grand Empire-style mansion, is strong on Romanian greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

  SynagogueSYNAGOGUE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Basarab 12)

  Ploieşti’s synagogue dates from 1901 and was lavishly restored in 2007. It's not open to the public, but there's a good view of the exterior from the street.

  Cathedral of St John the BaptistCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Republicii; h8am-6pm)

  Ploieşti's impressive cathedral dates from the early 19th century. The 55m bell tower, visible from around the city, was finished in 1939 as a memorial to Romanian soldiers who fought in WWI.

  4Sleeping

  Ploieşti is geared for business travel and has several decent three- and four-star hotels. There's a group of cheaper pensions north of the city, along B-dul Republicii, about 3km north of the centre and 4km north of the Southern Train Station.

  oPensiunea Casa SimoniPENSION$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-010 310; www.pensiunea-casa-simoni.ro; B-dul Republicii 224; s/d 120/140 lei; nai)

  This beautifully maintained, family-owned pension is one of the best-value options in town, with only one drawback: it's about 4km north of the centre. Rooms are clean and spacious, with terraces looking out over the front of the property. Though the address is B-dul Republicii, the pension is located 200m off the main road, on an unmarked road (look for the sign).

  Hotel NordHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-516 774; www.nordhotelploiesti.com; Sos Vestului 31; s 130-200 lei, d 160-240 lei; pnaW)

  There's nothing fancy here at this boxy business hotel 2km northwest of the centre, but the rooms are clean and good value. The Nord has two- and three-star rooms, which aren't much different, except the latter have air-conditioning.

  Hotel CentralHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-526 641; www.thr.ro; B-dul Republicii 1; s 220-360 lei, d 320-420 lei; pnaiW)

  This beautifully restored landmark hotel sits in the dead centre of town. It offers both three- and four-star rooms, though there is not really much of a difference in quality. Some of the cheaper three-stars come without air-conditioning.

  Hotel Prahova PlazaHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-526 850; www.hotelprahova.ro; Str C-tin Dobrogeanu Gherea 11; r 350-400 lei; pnaiW)

  This communist-era hulk has been given a thorough makeover into one of the city's nicest business hotels, and prices have been adjusted upwards accordingly. Rooms are divided into 'economy' and 'deluxe', with the latter being larger and with updated furnishings. The location couldn’t be better, just a couple of minutes’ walk from the central square.

  5Eating & Drinking

  Stock up on fruit, bread and cheese for your train journey at the monster-sized central market (Halele Centrale; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Unirii; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat).

  oTaverna DionysosGREEK$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-338 835; Str Anul 1907 2; mains 30-40 lei; h10.30am-11pm)

  One of the most popular restaurants in Ploieşti, Dionysos offers very good, authentic Greek food, including excellent grills and fresh fish, in a lively party atmosphere. The owner is Greek and takes special pride in the food. Dine on the terrace in summer.

  BulevardROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0723-617 654; Str Goleşti 25; mains 25-40 lei; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun; W)

  This attractive restaurant is located within easy walking distance of the Clock Museum and other major sights. The eclectic menu is strong on Romanian cuisine, with the addition of a long list of grilled meats and fish. There's a classy dining room and an elegant summer terrace.

  Sport Pub DorofteiPUB FOOD$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-544 112; Piaţa Victoriei 4; mains 20-30 lei; h11am-1am; W)

  Don’t be put off by the name, this ‘sports’ pub has great food and a fun 2nd-floor terrace that overlooks Piaţa Victoriei. After dinner, it does double duty as, well, a sports pub.

  Dublin PubPUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-352 089; B-dul Republicii 19; h10am-11.30pm; W)

  A popular spot to grab a beer (although there's no Irish beer, despite the name) or occasionally see some live music or even stand-up comedy. The location is smack in the centre, an easy walk from the Hotel Central.

  8Information

  There’s no tourist information office in Ploieşti.

  There are banks and ATMs all around the centre, with most on the main drag of B-dul Republicii and Piaţa Victoriei.

  Banca Transilvania ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bancatransilvania.ro; B-dul Republicii 15; hMon-Fri 9am-5pm) Convenient full-service bank and ATM close to the centre.

  Post OfficePOST

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Victoriei 10; h7am-1pm & 1.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

  The central post office is located on Piaţa Victoriei, just south of the Hotel Central following B-dul Republicii.

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  Ploieşti has several bus stations. The main station is the southern bus station (Autogara Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-522 230; www.autogari.ro; Str Depoului 9-11), 200m west of the southern train station. From here, you can catch buses to Bucharest (16 lei, one hour, several daily), Câmpina (6 lei, 30 minutes, eight daily) and Târgovişte (10 lei, 90 minutes, seven daily). For other destinations, consult the website www.autogari.ro.

  Train

  The city has two main passenger train stations, so always ask which station your train departs from. Many domestic trains, including those to Bucovina and Moldavia, leave from the southern train station (Gara de Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-594 799; www.cfr.ro; Strada Depoului). For trips to Transylvania and international destinations such as Budapest and Vienna, use the western train station (Gara de Vest; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-557 191; www.cfr.ro; Str Domnișori 95). Bucharest trains arrive at and depart from either station, so consult the timetable.

  Destinations for fast Inter-City trains include Bucharest (20 lei, 45 minutes, 15 daily), Braşov (35 lei, two hours, 10 daily) and Cluj-Napoca (100 lei, eight hours, two daily).

  WORTH A TRIP

  THE NICOLAE GRIGORESCU MUSEUM, CâMPINA

  If you’ve visited the art museums in Bucharest, Constanţa or Ploieşti, you’ve likely developed a taste for the talented and underrated (at least outside of Romania) 19th-century painter Nicolae Grigorescu (1838–1907). Best known locally for his starkly beautiful landscapes, his work ranges from portraiture to reportage (he was a war painter in the Romanian War of Independence). Grigorescu studied in Paris with Pierre Auguste Renoir and his later works were highly innovative, anticipating more modern styles, such as Impressionism, that were well in vogue by the end of his life.

  The Nicolae Grigorescu Museum (Muzeul Nicolae Grigorescu; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-335 598; http://grigorescu.artmuseum.ro; B-dul Carol I 166, Câmpina;
adult/child 8/2 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a modest tribute to the painter’s life, with collections on two floors in a traditional wooden village house where he lived during the last seven years of his life.

  From Ploieşti’s southern bus station there are several daily buses to Câmpina, 32km north of Ploieşti. There are also daily trains from Ploieşti’s western station to Câmpina.

  Târgovişte

  Pop 79,600

  The small city of Târgovişte, 50km northwest of Bucharest, has played an outsized role in Romanian history. It served as the royal capital of Wallachia from 1418 until well into the 16th century, when the capital was moved to Bucharest. The ruins of the former royal court remain the town’s leading attraction. During the 15th century, Vlad Ţepeş, of impaler fame, held princely court here. In more recent times, the city made international headlines as the site where dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu and his wife, Elena, were executed on Christmas Day, 1989.

  1Sights

  oMilitary BarracksMUSEUM

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Carol I 48; adult/child 7/3.50 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  This small, spare museum just outside the train station contains the military barracks where former Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu and his wife Elena were tried and executed by firing squad on Christmas Day in 1989. Three rooms are open, showing where the trial took place and where the couple spent their last nights. Outside in the back, visitors can see the wall where the couple were shot. There's helpful signage in English and the modest setting adds to the powerful effect.

  Before entering, take a moment to read the large bulletin board outside, which explains in detail the dramatic and terrifying days in December 1989 that lead to Ceauşescu's downfall and execution. The Târgovişte location was purely coincidental: when the couple fled Bucharest, they were captured near the city and brought here because the military barracks were well fortified.

  Princely CourtMUSEUM, RUINS

  (Curtea Domnească; GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-613 946; www.muzee-dambovitene.ro; Calea Domnească 181; adult/child 10/5 lei; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun)

  The Princely Court was built in the 14th century for Mircea cel Bătrân (Mircea the Old) and remained a formal residence for Wallachia’s princes, including Vlad Ţepeş, until the reign of Constantin Brâncoveanu (r 1688–1714). Much of the court lies in ruin, though the 27m-high Sunset Tower (Turnul Chindiei) – the symbol of the city – has a museum exhibition. Another highlight is the cathedral.

  Just north of the Sunset Tower is a lovely park for strolling. Each of the Wallachian princes gets his own bust here, but the biggest prize is reserved for Vlad Ţepeş, who merits a big, suitably dramatic statue in the centre of the park – a great photo op.

  ZooZOO

  (Grădina Zoologică; GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-616 558; www.zootargoviste.ro; Zona Calea Domnească, Parcul Chindia; adult/child 7/4 lei; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; c)

  Târgovişte's small zoo, in the park just north of the Princely Court, is surprisingly comprehensive, with some large cats, a hippo, lots of chimps and a variety of other animals. The zoo shows obvious signs of wear and tear, but the animals appear adequately cared for. Kids will love how close you can come to the animals.

  Târgu ChurchCHURCH

  (Biserica Târgului; GOOGLE MAP ; Str Ion Rădulescu; h8am-6pm)

  Near the restaurants on Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza is the beautiful, partially frescoed Târgu Church. Dating to 1654, it was painted during the 17th and 18th centuries, but destroyed during an earthquake in 1940. Extensive renovations followed in 1941 and in the 1970s, and were still ongoing at the time of research. The church is especially pretty when lit at night.

  CathedralCHURCH

  (Catedrala Metropolitana; GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Mircea cel Bătrân; h8am-7pm)F

  Târgovişte's main church occupies a prominent position in the town's central Parcul Mitropoliei. The church is built of red brick in Byzantine style and dates from the early 20th century.

  Museum of Printing & Old Romanian BooksMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Tiparului şi al Cărţii Româneşti Vechi; GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-613 946; www.muzee-dambovitene.ro; Str Calea Domnească 181; 5 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  Housed in a 17th-century palace built by Constantin Brâncoveanu for his daughter Safta, this museum is filled with original books from the beginning of Romania’s printing age and manuscripts by 17th- and 18th-century Romanian writers.

  4Sleeping

  There are a couple of acceptable hotels in town, but Târgovişte generally lacks decent places to stay.

  Pensiunea ChindiaPENSION$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-355 514; www.cazaretargoviste.ro; Calea Domenască 200; s/d/tr 70/80/120 lei; pnW)

  A good-value pension located directly across the street from the entrance to the Princely Court.

  Hotel DâmboviţaHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-213 370; www.hoteldambovita.ro; B-dul Libertăţii 1; s/d 130/170 lei; paiW)

  If you’re going to spend the night in Târgovişte, make it here, the nicest place in town. While the modern high-rise building doesn't look encouraging from the outside, the rooms are clean and quiet; some have balconies with views overlooking the central park. Breakfast (included in the room price) is served à la carte, a welcome relief from tired buffet spreads.

  5Eating

  Most of the best restaurants as well as a dozen cafes and bars are clustered along Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza in the historic centre.

  Bistro AlexoPIZZA$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-125 396; Calea Domenască 179; pizza 16-20 lei; h9am-11pm; W)

  The inviting garden terrace is a welcome spot for coffee or pizza before or after a visit to the nearby Princely Court. The salads are enormous; one is enough for the whole table. They also serve good espresso.

  oQueen's CornerROMANIAN$$

  (Belvedere; GOOGLE MAP ; Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza 22a; mains 25-40 lei; h11am-midnight; W)

  Grab an upper-level terrace table overlooking the pedestrian street and enjoy excellent Romanian and international dishes, including well-executed grilled meats and steaks. They also have very good wood-fired pizzas and a menu page of traditional Romanian dishes. The wine list is the best in town, but service can be slow.

  San MarcoITALIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0723-363 635; Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza 22; mains 25-40 lei; h10am-11pm; W)

  Arguably the most attractive of several restaurants along the city's small pedestrianised strip. The focus here is pasta, risotto, pizza and salad, and there's a decent wine list on hand. There are several outside tables and a warm, inviting dining room inside.

  8Information

  There is no tourist information office. The Hotel Dâmboviţa stocks city maps.

  Arena InternetINTERNET

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Independenţiei 2-4; per hr 2.50 lei; h7am-10pm; W)

  Banca Comercială RomânăBANK

  (BCR; GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Independenţiei 6; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

  Full-service bank with a row of ATMs in the centre of town on the eastern end of the large central park.

  Central Post OfficePOST

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Dr Marinoiu 2; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  Târgovişte has several bus stations. The main bus station (Autogara; GOOGLE MAP ; www.autogari.ro; Str Gării) is located 2km south of the city centre and about 200m northwest of the train station. Buses to Bucharest (15 lei, two hours, five daily) depart from here.

  Buses to Ploieşti (10 lei, one hour, several daily) leave from a small stop at Str Tudor Vladimirescu 86, about 200m south of the central Parcul Mitropoliei.

  Buses to Braşov (27 lei, three hours, five daily) leave from a stop at B-dul Eroilor 38, about 1km north of the Princely Court.

  For other destinations, check www.autogari.ro.

  Train

  Târgovişte's sleepy train station (Gara Târgovişte; GOOGLE MAP ; www.cfr.ro; Piața Gării) is 2km south of the city centre, at the end of
B-dul Carol I. There are regular departures throughout the day to Bucharest Nord (10 lei, two hours, four daily). For other destinations, you're better off taking the bus.

  Piteşti

  Pop 164,380

  Piteşti is a pleasant, medium-sized city with a pretty, pedestrianised centre lined with cafes, bars and a handful of decent hotels. If you’re planning an overnight stay in this neck of the woods it’s a strong candidate – not so much for the sights (they are strictly second-tier), but for the energy and lively atmosphere.

  1Sights

  The city's pride and joy is an enormous stretch of green that runs west of the centre called Trivale Park.

  Art MuseumMUSEUM

  (Rudolf Schweitzer Cumpăna Art Gallery; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-212 561; www.muzeul-judetean-arges.ro; B-dul Republicii 33; adult/child 5/2 lei; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun)

  This central museum showcases the best of modern and contemporary Romanian art, including works from Nicolae Grigorescu, Nicolae Tonitza and other luminaries of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

  Princely ChurchCHURCH

  (Biserica Domnească; GOOGLE MAP ; www.bisericadomneascapitesti.ro; Str Victoriei; h8am-6pm)

  The unusual St George’s Church (Biserica Sfântul Gheorghe), more commonly known as the Princely Church, was built by Prince Constantin Şerban and his wife Princess Bălasa between 1654 and 1658. The church is located on the southern end of Str Victoriei, about 200m south of the Hotel Argeş.