Enjoy well-made cocktails in the open air at this secluded bar and club, just a couple of blocks east of bul Vitosha. Early evenings and through the week the vibe is relaxed, but weekend nights after 9pm can be more crowded as DJs bring out the clubbers.
PerotoCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-916 6411; www.ndk.bg; pl Bulgaria 1, National Palace of Culture; h24hr; W; mNDK)
This nonstop library and coffeehouse, situated in the National Palace of Culture (NDK), is an oasis of calm and good coffee. The perfect place, day or night, to relax with friends, surf the web or browse the books, though the latter are only in Bulgarian. To find it, enter the NDK and ask the guard to direct you to Peroto.
MottoCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-987 2723; www.motto-bg.com; ul Aksakov 18; h10am-1pm; W; mSofiyski Universitet)
By day, a pleasant place to stop for a coffee, beer and homemade lemonade in the tree-covered back garden. By night, a more raucous mood takes over, as stylish clubbers cram the bar for cocktails against a throbbing DJ beat.
Chucky's Coffee & CultureCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0884068869; www.chuckys.bg; ul Hristo Belchev 29; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; mNDK)
Locals claim this tiny stand-up in the trendiest part of the city centre does Sofia's best coffee, and that may certainly be true. Carefully chosen beans and blends, prepared using the latest filters, presses and vacuum packs.
JJ Murphy’sPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 2870; www.jjmurphys.bg; ul Kârnigradska 6; h10am-2am; W; mSerdika)
Popular city-centre Irish pub frequented by expats, with live music at weekends.
Ale HouseBEER HALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0884320400; www.alehouse.bg; ul Hristo Belchev 42; h11am-midnight; mNDK, j9)
No need to queue at the bar at this convivial beer hall – the tables have their own beer taps. Food is also served, and there's live music on Fridays and Saturdays.
Veda HouseTEAHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882108108; www.vedahouse.bg; ul William Gladstone 2; teas from 3 lv; h10.30am-11pm; j1, 6, 7)
This sociable, vaguely Indian-themed teahouse has a lengthy (Bulgarian-only) menu of black and green teas, served in pretty little teapots. Light vegetarian and vegan meals are available, too.
Nightclubs
SwitchCLUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0877122890; bul Bulgaria 2; h10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W; mNDK)
High-dance club situated behind the National Palace of Culture (NDK). Draws the best local and international DJs and live music. The club is sprawling, with lots of outdoor seating, though the dance floor is tiny and at 1am on a Saturday night is jammed to capacity.
ID ClubCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898200000; www.idclub.bg; ul Kârnigradska 19b; hmidnight-7am Tue & Thu-Sat; W; mSerdika)
Centrally located ID is a late-night dance club that draws a mix of gay and straight clientele for dancing, various theme nights and cabaret.
YaltaCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0897870230; www.yaltaclub.com; bul Tsar Osvoboditel 20; h9am-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm & 11pm-6am Fri, 11pm-6am Sat; W; mSofiyski Universitet)
Shake it with Sofia's trendy types and local and international DJ stars at this hip, hyper spot that's been going strong since 1959 (it was Bulgaria's first modern nightclub).
CherviloCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888111999; bul Tsar Osvoboditel 9; h10.30pm-6am Tue-Sat; mSofiyski Universitet)
This popular, upscale venue – the name translates as ‘Lipstick’ – is situated in Sofia's Military Club. The guest DJs, themed party nights and live acts draw Sofia’s young and fashionable set at night. There's also a pleasant terrace for sitting out with a drink or two.
3Entertainment
If you read Bulgarian, or at least can decipher some of the Cyrillic, Programata is the most comprehensive source of entertainment listings; otherwise check out its excellent English-language website, www.programata.bg.
You can book tickets online at www.ticketpro.bg.
Cinemas
As well as a couple of modern multiplexes, Sofia has several smaller cinemas dotted around town. Most screen recent English-language films with Bulgarian subtitles, although cartoons and children’s films are normally dubbed into Bulgarian.
Cultural Centre G8CINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-995 0080; www.g8cinema.com; ul William Gladstone 8; tickets 6-8 lv; h9am-11pm; j1, 6, 7)
This trendy, art-house cinema does triple duty as a contemporary art gallery and secluded, garden drinking spot.
Euro CinemaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 4161; bul Stamboliyski 47; tickets 5-8 lv; h12.30-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun; mSerdika)
Cute retro cinema, close to the heart of the city, features the best in European and international art-house film.
Dom Na KinotoCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 7838; http://domnakinoto.com; ul Ekzarh Yosif 37; tickets 5-8 lv; j20, 22)
Shows a varied program of Bulgarian-language, independent and vintage foreign films.
Kino OdeonCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-989 2469; bul Patriarh Evtimii 1; tickets 4-6 lv; mNDK)
Legendary cinema from communist days specialising in smaller European and art-house movies. Hosts several small film festivals throughout the year.
Cultural Centres
National Palace of CultureCONCERT VENUE
(NDK; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-916 6300; www.ndk.bg; pl Bulgaria; hticket office 10am-8pm; W; mNDK)
The NDK (as it’s usually called) has 15 halls and is the country’s largest cultural complex. It maintains a regular program of events throughout the year, including film screenings, trade shows and big-name international music acts.
Red HouseARTS CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 02-988 8188; www.redhouse-sofia.org; ul Lyuben Karavelov 15; hbox office 3-9pm; W; mVasil Levski National Stadium, j10)
Occupying a unique early 20th-century mansion, this avant-garde institution hosts everything from political and cultural debates (in various languages) to poetry readings and dance performances. Many events are free; check the website for the current program. There’s also a B&B here.
Live Music
Sofia Live ClubLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0886661045; www.sofialiveclub.com; pl Bulgaria 1; h8pm-7am; mNDK)
This slick venue, located in the National Palace of Culture (NDK), is the city's largest live-music club. All swished up in cabaret style, it hosts local and international jazz, alternative, world-music and rock acts.
Club Terminal 1LIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889219001; ul Angel Kânchev 1; tickets 6 lv; h9pm-6am Thu-Sat; W; j10, 12, 18)
Live music on two floors, with several adjoining bars, marks this as the centre's best-known and most popular alternative music venue.
Mixtape 5LIVE MUSIC
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0889838348; www.mixtape5.com; pl Bulgaria 1, NDK, Galleria Underpass; h9pm-3am; mNDK)
The best in Bulgarian and international live rock and alternative acts play here in two good-sized halls located behind the National Palace of Culture (NDK).
RockITLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888666991; ul Georgi Benkovski 14; h9pm-4am Mon-Sat; mSerdika, j20, 22)
If you're into rock and metal, get your horns up here. This huge two-level building shakes beneath the weight of heavy live bands, DJs, and lots and lots of hair.
Swingin’ HallLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0896840161; www.swinginghall.bg; bul Dragan Tsankov 8; h9pm-4am; mNational Stadium Vasil Levski)
Long-standing club offering an eclectic program of live music each night. The acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and folk pop, typically attract audiences of all ages.
Spectator Sports
Football (soccer) is Bulgaria’s main sporting passion, and Sofia alone has several teams. The main clubs are CSKA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 02-866 8903; www.cska.bg
; bul Dragan Tsankov 3; mVasil Levski National Stadium), which plays at the CSKA Stadium in Borisova Gradina, and PFC Levski ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-847 7958; www.levski.bg; ul Todorini kukli 47), based at the Georgi Asparoukhov Stadium.
Vasil Levski National StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nsb.bg; Borisova Gradina; mNational Stadium Vasil Levski)
This 43,000-seat stadium is the home of the Bulgarian national football team, and is the main venue for international matches, athletics and other big sporting events. It also stages big concerts for visiting rock acts.
Theatre & Music
Ticket prices for theatre and live music vary enormously. For shows at the Opera House or the Ivan Vazov National Theatre, you might pay anything from 10 lv to 30 lv; shows at the National Palace of Culture (NDK) vary much more, with tickets costing from 30 lv to 80 lv for international acts and around 10 lv to 30 lv for local ones.
Bulgaria HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 02-987 7656; www.sofiaphilharmonie.bg; ul Aksakov 1; hbox office 9.30am-2.30pm, 3-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat; mSerdika)
Home of the excellent Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra.
Ivan Vazov National TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-811 9219; www.nationaltheatre.bg; ul Dyakon Ignatiy 5; hticket office 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-7.30pm Sat & Sun; mSerdika)
One of Sofia's most elegant buildings, the Viennese-style National Theatre opened in 1907, and is the city's main stage for Bulgarian drama.
National Opera HouseOPERA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 02-987 1366; www.operasofia.bg; bul Dondukov 30; hbox office 9am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; j20, 22)
Opened in 1953, this monumental edifice is the venue for classical opera and ballet performances, as well as special concerts for children. Enter from ul Vrabcha.
7Shopping
Bul Vitosha is Sofia’s main shopping street, mostly featuring international brand-name boutiques interspersed with restaurants. The Ladies' Market (Zhenski Pazar; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Stefan Stambolov; hdawn-dusk; mLavov most, j20, 22) feels like a little piece of the Middle East, with stalls selling all manner of fresh produce, meats, fish, cheeses and spices. Scattered around the city are also a few big modern shopping malls, housing international fashion chains, cinemas and supermarkets.
Vino OrendaWINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0889623606; www.vinoorenda.com; bul Makedonia 50a; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; j4, 5)
Small, knowledgeable wine shop offering products from a variety of independent producers around the country. The engaging owner is more than happy to guide you through your options.
Rose of BulgariaCOSMETICS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0893356418; www.biofresh.bg; bul Vitosha 4; h10am-8pm; mSerdika)
This small boutique on bul Vitosha sells a range of locally made, rose-scented beauty products, including rosewater, perfume, colognes, soaps and shampoos.
Centre of Folk Arts & CraftsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-989 6416; www.craftshop-bg.com; ul Parizh 4; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, by appointment Sun; mSerdika, j20, 22)
Typical Bulgarian souvenirs such as hand-woven rugs, pottery, silver jewellery, woodcarvings and CDs of Bulgarian music are available in this crowded shop, though prices are rather high. There's another branch inside the Royal Palace, at the exit from the Ethnographic Museum.
Tsum Retail CentreSHOPPING CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-926 0700; bul Maria Luisa 2; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; mSerdika)
The monumental former state department store, built in 1956, is now a confusing warren of stalls selling clothing, jewellery, perfume and candles. It's eerily quiet, often seeming to have more staff than customers, but it does have free public toilets.
Mirella BratovaCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-943 5420; http://mirellabratova.com; ul Ivan Shishman 4; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; mSofiyski Universitet)
Stylish women's fashions designed by Sofia couturier Mirella Bratova are on display at this little shop, including knitwear, jewellery and accessories.
Greenwich Book CenterBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-950 8337; www.greenwich.bg; bul Vitosha 37; h9am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun; W; mSerdika, j10)
Offers a small selection of foreign-language souvenir books about Bulgaria, as well as guidebooks, maps and music CDs. There's a cafe in the basement.
StenataSPORTS & OUTDOORS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 5491; www.stenata.com; ul Bratia Miladinovi 5; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; mSerdika)
The best place in town to buy hiking, climbing and camping equipment, including backpacks, tents and sleeping bags.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
Artists sell paintings, mainly of traditional rural scenes, near the Mineral Baths and around pl Aleksander Nevski, where you’ll also find stalls ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Aleksander Nevski; hdawn-dusk) selling reproduction religious icons, jewellery, souvenirs and embroidery. But be wary of the ‘antiques’: there are some genuine items here, but much of it’s fake, and prices are very much aimed at tourists. The underpass below pl Nezavisimost has souvenir shops selling the usual array of postcards, paintings and books.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sofia is a relatively safe city and there are few specific dangers and annoyances. Watch for traffic when crossing the street, as drivers seem oblivious to pedestrian crossings; note that while bul Vitosha is pedestrian-only, the cross streets are not and cars still zip across.
As always, be careful with bags, wallets and purses on crowded public transport and particularly in busy areas such as the Ladies’ Market and around pl Sveta Nedelya.
Emergency
Ambulance (%150)
Fire (%160)
Mountain Rescue (%0881470, 02-963 2000; www.redcross.bg)
Police (%166)
Traffic Police (%165)
Internet Access
Most cafes, restaurants and bars offer free wi-fi for customers. Simply ask your waiter for the password. Nearly all hostels, guesthouses and hotels have free in-room wi-fi for guests. Larger hotels will also have a computer or 'business centre' for guest use.
Internet cafes have largely died out in central Sofia, though you may occasionally find a hanger-on, identified by the sign 'Internet'.
Media
Programata (www.programata.bg) A useful, widely available weekly listings magazine, with details of cinemas, restaurants and clubs. It’s only in Bulgarian, but the website is in English.
Sofia City Info Guide (www.sofia-guide.com) Published monthly, this includes basic practical information and reviews of hotels, restaurants and clubs and comes with a free city map. Available at hotel reception desks.
Sofia – The Insider’s Guide (www.insidesofia.com) A pleasingly opinionated quarterly publication featuring background information and advice for visitors, as well as restaurant and entertainment reviews. Available at some hotels and travel agencies.
Medical Services
Dr Ivan Dimitrov Dental PracticeDENTIST
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-952 2328; www.drivandimitrov.com; ul Dragshan 5; j4)
English-speaking dentist.
International Medical CentreMEDICAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-944 9326; www.imc-sofia.com; ul Gogol 28; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; g9, 306)
The IMC has English- and French-speaking doctors who will make house calls at any time. It also deals with dental care.
Neomed PharmacyPHARMACY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-951 5539; bul General Totleben 2, entrance B; h24hr; j4, 5)
Twenty-four-hour pharmacy.
Pirogov HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %emergency 02-915 4411; www.pirogov.bg; bul General Totleben 21; j4, 5)
Sofia’s main public hospital for emergencies.
Money
Banks and ATMs are ubiquitous in the centre, and there are several f
oreign-exchange offices on bul Vitosha, bul Maria Luisa and bul Stamboliyski.
Unicredit Bulbank ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.unicreditbulbank.bg; cnr ul Lavele & ul Todor Alexandrov; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri; mSerdika)
United Bulgarian Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 2235; www.ubb.bg; ul Sveta Sofia 5; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri; mSerdika)
Post
Central Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul General Gurko 6; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun) Centrally located bank branch and 24-hour ATM.
Tourist Information
National Tourist Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-933 5826; www.bulgariatravel.org; pl Sveta Nedelya 1; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; mSerdika) Helpful, English-speaking staff and glossy brochures for destinations around Bulgaria. The office is a little hard to find, hidden near a small side street, a few steps southwest of pl Sveta Nedelya.
Sofia Tourist Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-491 8344; www.info-sofia.bg; Sofiyski Universitet metro underpass; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mSofiyski Universitet) Lots of free leaflets and maps, and helpful English-speaking staff.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 55
