Entering the structure, pass through two gates and veer left (northeast) for the fortress walls – some were once 12m high and 10m thick. Further along the walls are the unrecognisable remains of a 12th-century monastery, various dwellings and workshops and two churches. To the north lie remains of a 13th-century monastery, and Execution Rock, from which traitors were pushed into the Yantra River. Alleged traitor Patriarch Joachim III was the most famous figure to take the plunge, in 1300.
The complex’s eastern path is less remarkable; return to the middle, using the hilltop Patriarch’s Complex as a landmark. Past one of several modern bells (used in the Sound and Light show) are a ruined nobleman’s dwelling and two churches to the left (east).
Below the Patriarch’s Complex are the foundations of the Royal Palace, from where 22 successive kings ruled Bulgaria. Once covering 4500 sq metres, the palace included an appropriately enormous throne (measuring about 30m by 10m) and Roman columns, probably transferred from nearby Nikopolis-ad-Istrum.
From the palace, head west to the main path and up the steps to the Patriarch’s Complex, also called the Church of the Blessed Saviour. Once about 3000 sq metres in size, it was probably built around 1235 and has been extensively restored. The city views from the front steps are more impressive than the modern murals inside, depicting 14th- and 15th-century Bulgarian history.
Returning towards the main entrance, veer left along the path hugging the southern wall. At its end is the restored Baldwin Tower, where Baldwin I of Flanders – the perfidious Crusader who led the sacking of Christian Byzantium in 1204 – got his just deserts, imprisoned and executed after his defeat by the Bulgarians a year later. There are great views from the top.
Sarafkina KâshtaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul General Gurko 88; adult/student 6/2 lv; h9am-6pm Tue & Thu-Sat, noon-6pm Wed)
Built for a wealthy banker in 1861, this National Revival–style house-museum spans five storeys (when viewed from the river). Within, 19th-century earrings, bracelets and other delicate silverware are on display, alongside antique ceramics, woodcarvings and traditional costumes and jewellery.
Sarafkina Kâshta offers insights into the wigged world of Veliko Târnovo's society women, a ball-frequenting, fashioned-focused crowd devoted to following the latest point-lace techniques from Western Europe. It's a tantalising glimpse of moneyed Veliko Târnovo society during its 19th-century golden age.
Asenevtsi MonumentMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
In the shape of a sky-piercing sword and dominating Veliko Târnovo's river views, this 1985 monument celebrates medieval Bulgarian might. The horsemen flanking its central column are Asenevtsi brothers Asen, Petar and Kaloyan and Asen's son Ivan, under whom Bulgaria flourished in the 12th and 13th centuries. The surrounding greenery is a popular place for summer live-music events.
Samovodska CharshiyaAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
During its 19th-century heyday, this lane hosted dozens of vendors from local villages, carefully laying fruit and vegetables, butter and cheeses onto small carpets laid on the cobbled ground. Inns, blacksmiths and craft shops helped Samovodska Charshiya grow into Veliko Târnovo's biggest market square in the 1880s. Today it retains the nostalgic feel, with handicrafts, traditional sweets and leatherware on offer from numerous boutiques.
Ulitsa GurkoHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The oldest street in Veliko Târnovo, ul Gurko is a must-stroll with arresting views towards the Yantra River and Asen Monument. Its charmingly crumbling period houses – which appear to be haphazardly piled on one another – provide a million photo ops and conversations that start with 'Imagine living here…' Sturdy shoes a must.
Forty Martyrs ChurchCHURCH
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.st40martyrs.org; ul Mitropolska; adult/student 5/1 lv; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Nov-Mar)
The Forty Martyrs Church, in the old Asenova quarter, was built in 1230 to celebrate Tsar Asen II’s victory over the Byzantines. It was used as a royal mausoleum and then as a mosque by the Turks, before its reuse as a church after Bulgaria's liberation in 1878.
Multimedia Visitors CentreMUSEUM
(Tsarevgrad Tarnov Wax Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Nikola Pikolo 6; adult/child 10/5 lv; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun, noon-7pm Mon)
Eerily lifelike wax figures of medieval characters are the main attraction of this museum en route to Tsarevets Fortress. Between waxy visages of peasants and kings, multimedia panels give multilingual rundowns of Veliko Târnovo's history. Kids will get a kick out of eyeballing citizens of yore, especially the throne room featuring an intensely concentrating Tsar Asen, or playing dress-up in period costumes. Less-youthful travellers might find the entrance fee a little steep.
Church of Sveti Petar & PavelCHURCH
(Church of St Peter & St Paul; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Mitropolska; adult/student 4/2 lv; h9am-6pm)
North of Tsarevets Fortress and the Forty Martyrs Church, this sturdy little church mingles elements of Byzantine and classic Bulgarian styles and houses fragments of murals from the 13th to 17th centuries.
Church of Sveti DimitârCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Patriarh Evtimii)
Across the river, enclosed by a high wall, is Târnovo’s oldest church, the beautifully proportioned Church of Sveti Dimitâr. Built in the so-called Târnovo style, it was named after St Dimitrios, patron saint of Thessaloniki (Greece). During its 1185 consecration, Tsars Asen and Petâr proclaimed an uprising against Byzantine rule, which would create the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185–1396).
State Art MuseumGALLERY
(Boris Denev Gallery; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Asenovtsi Park; adult/student 4/2 lv; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Named for an early 20th-century Veliko Târnovo artist, this gallery is housed in a grand neoclassical building near the Asen Monument, in a tight bend of the Yantra River. Spread across two floors, displays comprise 19th- and 20th-century art, mostly religious icons and local landscape paintings. Entry is free on Thursdays.
Museum of National Revival & Constituent AssemblyMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ivanka Botev; adult/student 6/2 lv; h9am-6pm Wed-Mon, noon-6pm Tue)
Within a former Turkish town hall built in 1872, this is where Bulgaria’s first National Assembly was held to write the country’s first constitution in 1879. The ground floor charts administrative and daily life in Veliko Târnovo from the 15th to 19th centuries, using costumes, books and photos, building up to the Bulgarian National Revival. The former assembly hall, upstairs, displays portraits of local personalities, while the basement has old photos and some valuable icons.
Veliko Târnovo Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-638 841; http://museumvt.com; ul Ivanka Boteva 2; adult/student 6/2 lv; hnoon-6pm Mon & 9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar)
Housed in a grand old building with a courtyard full of Roman sculptures, the museum contains Roman artefacts and medieval Bulgarian exhibits, including a huge mural of the tsars, plus some ancient gold from nearby Neolithic settlements.
2Activities
Hiking and mountain biking are the most popular ways to work up a sweat in Veliko Târnovo's surrounds; the best months are May to October.
Free Veliko Turnovo Walking ToursWALKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0887199921; www.facebook.com/freevtwalk; tourist information centre; h11am daily Apr–mid-Nov)F
Engaging walking tours lead visitors around Veliko Târnovo's highlights, with plenty of history and humour between the statue photo ops and restaurant plugs. Check the Facebook page or email ahead, and consider the less-regular 6pm 'alternative tours', which explore the city's seamier side. Tours last up to three hours, but you can skip out early if short on time.
The VT FoodiesCULTURAL TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; [email protected]; htours at 11.30am weekdays May–mid-Nov by request)F
Guided by charming food enthusiast Mila, nibble your way from traditional bakeries
to markets and dizzyingly sugary desserts. Tours are free, though tips are welcome; food providers hope you'll return for another taste (often with 10% off). Tours usually begin from the corner of ul Stambolov and ul Rakovski. Email at least 24 hours ahead, and mention any dietary requirements.
DON'T MISS
THE SOUND & LIGHT SHOW
Marvel as Veliko Târnovo's medieval skyline is bathed in multiple sounds and colours at the Sound & Light Show ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0885080865; www.soundandlight.bg; ul N Pikolo 6; admission 20-25 lv). This 40-minute audiovisual display uses choral music and flashes of light in a homage to the rise and fall of the Second Bulgarian Empire.
Historical insights are few, but it's an undeniably impressive spectacle: Tsarevets Hill is awash in crimson and green, while strings, cymbal clashes and traditional song swell to a crescendo.
The starting time is anywhere from 8pm to 9.30pm, depending on the time of year, so check the website or ask at the tourist information centre. Otherwise, simply listen for the bells and look for the laser beams.
zFestivals & Events
International Folklore FestivalCULTURAL
(%062-630 223; www.cioff.org; hlate Jun–mid-Jul)
The city's most popular festival brings acts from Bulgaria, the Balkans and beyond for a program of folk music, dancing and street parties. Details and exact dates available from mid-April.
4Sleeping
High utility costs put the squeeze on smaller guesthouse and hotel owners, who struggle to make ends meet. But while hotels come and go, Veliko Târnovo's accommodation scene suits all budgets. Higher-end hotels are comfortable, though impersonal, while hostels have plenty of personality but tend to be bare-bones. The best balance is found at family-run guesthouses and apartments, especially near Samovodska Charshiya in the Varosha district, and along the lower (southeastern) end of ul Gurko.
oCamping Veliko TarnovoCAMPGROUND$
(%0619-42 777; www.campingvelikotarnovo.com; ul Vasil Levski 70, Dragizhevo; per tent/campervan/adult/child 6/16/7/6 lv; hApr-Oct; pWs#)
This friendly campground snoozes among green meadows in Dragizhevo village, a 15km drive east of Veliko Târnovo. Efficiently run by cheerful British couple Nick and Nicky, the camping area draws a mix of families and adventure travellers. There's laundry service (12 lv), bike hire (15 lv) and a pool for kids to splash in.
Hotel AnheaHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-577 713; www.anheabg.com; ul Nezavisimost 32; s/d/tr from 30/45/55 lv; aW)
This superb budget hotel in an early 1900s building has a restful air, despite its central location. Crisp beige and cream rooms are arranged across two buildings, between which lies a peaceful courtyard and breakfast area – this secret garden is decorated with pretty iron railings, fountains and overseen by resident rabbit Emma.
Slavianska DushaGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-625 182; www.slavianska-dusha.com; ul Nikola Zlatarski 21; s/d/tr/apt from 30/40/50/70 lv; paW)
This jolly guesthouse is a real family affair, with the father as builder, son as chef and mother managing daily operations. Rooms are simple, spacious and ultraclean, with some enjoying heavenly views over Veliko Târnovo's terracotta rooftops.
Kâshata Private FlatsAPARTMENT$
(The House; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-604 129, 0887253693; www.thehouse-bg.com; pl Slaveikov 4; 2/4-person apt from 50/90 lv; aW)
Live like a local at these city-centre apartments. All are plain, though well maintained with comforts such as TVs and little sofas. Most have balconies and they are occasionally enlivened by original features (such as the 100-year-old wooden beams in the attic flat). The English- and Russian-speaking host is a garrulous soul and very flexible to accommodating travellers' needs.
Hostel MostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0897859359; www.hostelmostel.com; ul Iordan Indjeto 10; campsites/dm/s/d incl breakfast 18/20/46/60 lv; iW)
The famous Sofia-based Hostel Mostel has a welcoming branch in Târnovo, with clean, modern dorm rooms and doubles with sparkling bathrooms. It's just 150m from Tsarevets Fortress – good for exploring there, but a long walk from the city centre. Service is cheerful and multilingual, and there's barbecue equipment out back.
Hikers HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889691661; www.hikers-hostel.org; ul Rezervoarska 91; dm/d from 14/52 lv; iW)
Târnovo’s most laid-back hostel, Hikers has an unassuming location high in Varosha's old quarter (a 10-minute walk from the city centre) with lovely, lofty views. Dorms are spartan but clean, as are the two private rooms (one is without windows). Laundry facilities cost 4 lv.
oHotel-Mehana GurkoHISTORIC HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0887858965; www.hotel-gurko.com; ul General Gurko 33; s/d/apt incl breakfast from 70/90/130 lv; paiW)
Sitting pretty on Veliko Târnovo's oldest street, with blooms spilling over its wooden balconies and agricultural curios littering the exterior, the Gurko is one of the best places to sleep (and eat) in town. Its 21 rooms are spacious and soothing, each individually decorated and offering great views.
Hotel ComfortHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0887777265; www.hotelcomfortbg.com; ul P Tipografov 5; d 40-140 lv, apt 100 lv; paW)
With jaw-dropping views of the fortress and surrounding hills from most rooms, plus a stellar location just around the corner from the Samovodska Charshia market square, this family-owned hotel is a winner. Room prices vary enormously, depending on their view and floor. English is spoken by the amiable staff.
Hotel PremierHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-615 556; www.hotelpremier-bg.com; ul Sava Penev 1; s/d 76/96 lv, ste from 210 lv; paWs)
Hotel Premier is a smart and central option, located on a side street near the post office. Amenities are geared at business travellers, though there is plenty of scope for pampering with its rooftop pool, sauna (14 lv) and comprehensive menu of spa treatments (19 lv to 117 lv).
Hotel BolyarskiHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-613 200; www.bolyarski.com; ul Stefan Stambolov 53a; s/d/ste incl breakfast from 70/130/180 lv; paWs)
The schmick Bolyarski roosts on the bluff on ul Stambolov, with magical views of the town and river. Its modern, well-kept rooms are pitched at business travellers. The fitness centre, pool and sauna will suit anyone seeking a follow-up workout to marching around Tsarevets Hill.
5Eating
Bulgarian and Italian restaurants dominate Veliko Târnovo's dining scene, with good options for all budgets. Ul Stefan Stambolov has abundant choice (the best restaurants have terraces overlooking the river) but folksy, family places on ul Gurko and around Samovodska Charshiya are most atmospheric.
StratilatINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-635 313; ul Rakovski 11; mains 5-9 lv; h9am-11pm; W)
It's certainly touristy, but a large outdoor terrace perched above hectic ul Stambolov makes this cafe-restaurant enormously popular among visitors to the historic Samovodska Charshiya quarter. It's best for coffees and cakes, but Stratilat also churns out grills and salads day and night.
oShtastlivecaBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-606 656; www.shtastliveca.com; ul Stefan Stambolov 79; mains 10-20 lv; h11am-1am; W)S
Inventive dishes and amiable service have solidified the ‘Lucky Man’ as a favourite among locals and expats. Sauces pairing chocolate and cheese are drizzled over chicken, while strawberry and balsamic vinegar lend piquancy to meaty dishes, and there is a pleasing range for vegetarians.
The nod to vintage style in its floral decor gives it a calming feel, and downstairs tables enjoy the best views.
Ivan AsenBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882650065; www.ivan-asen.com; pl Tsar Asen 1; mains 8-15 lv; h10am-11pm)
Don't be deterred by its touristy location near Tsarevets Fortress. Stone walls and pillars infuse it with a commanding air, while dishes are as robust as you'd expect from a restaurant named after the Bulgarian Empire's bolshiest ruler. Fill up on
satch (a stew served on a hotplate), roasted pork, or trout with prosciutto. Risottos and pizza also served.
Hotel-Mehana GurkoBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-627 838; ul General Gurko 33; mains 7-15 lv; W)
This traditional-style mehana (tavern) at the Hotel Gurko is a cosy place with great views and tasty Bulgarian specialities. Portions are hearty and service is prompt and friendly.
oHan Hadji NikoliINTERNATIONAL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %062-651 291; www.hanhadjinikoli.com; ul Rakovski 19; mains 17-30 lv; h10am-11pm; W)
Countless Veliko Târnovo inns were ransacked under Ottoman rule, as they were popular meeting places for revolution-minded locals. Fortunately Han Hadji Nikoli survived, and today the town's finest restaurant occupies this beautifully restored 1858 building with an upstairs gallery. Well-executed dishes include Trakia chicken marinated in herbs and yoghurt, mussels sautéed in white wine and exquisitely prepared pork neck.
Popular with tour groups.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oTamBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889879693; ul Marno Pole 2A; h4pm-3am Mon-Sat)
Open the nondescript door, and up the stairs you'll find the city's friendliest, most-open-minded hang-out. Tam is the place to feel the pulse of VT's arty crowd. You might stumble on art installations, movie screenings, or language nights in English, French or Spanish. Punters and staff extend a genuine welcome and drinks flow late.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 66
