8Getting Around
Sozopol is easy to get around on foot. If you need a car, there are several agencies around pl Harmanite and ul Ropotamo in the new town which can arrange car rental from about 70 lv per day.
WORTH A TRIP
BOATING IN THE ROPOTAMO NATURE RESERVE
The Ropotamo Nature Reserve ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0887767706; www.ropotamo-reserve.com; boat rides adult/child 10/5 lv; hJun-Sep) is located 10km south of Sozopol, along the main road to Primorsko. Visitors can hike or picnic, but most come for a 30- to 40-minute slow boat ride along the Ropotamo River. To get to the parkland entrance by public transport, take any bus south of Sozopol, and get off at the prominent, well-signposted bridge where the highway crosses the river. Boats leave at regular intervals throughout the day.
The reserve was established in 1940 to protect fragile landscapes of extensive marshes and the largest sand dunes in Bulgaria, as well as rare flora such as the endemic sand lily. It also protects some 257 species of birds, reptiles and mammals, including white-tailed eagles, wild boars, jackals and 10 species of bat. The reserve also encompasses Thracian megaliths and tiny Sveti Toma Island, which hosts Bulgaria’s only wild cacti.
Primorsko ПРИМОРСКО
Pop 3680
Primorsko (meaning ‘by the sea’), 52km southeast of Burgas, is in many ways the ideal seaside resort. It's pretty and clean, and laid-back enough to feel like a holiday, yet it still has plenty of places to eat and drink. The town's two beaches are among the nicest on the coast.
2Activities
The main activities in Primorsko revolve around the town's two main beaches. North Beach curls around the northern end of town and is accessible from ul Briz. South Beach stretches on for a few kilometres and is accessible from ul Cherno More. Both have life guards on duty from 9am to 6pm from June to September.
4Sleeping
Primorsko has loads of hotels and guesthouses, though the best tend to book up quickly in summer. Even if you don't have a reservation, residents offering rooms line the road into town.
Zora Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0878510406; ul Zora 2; d/apt 50/100 lv; paW)
This largish guesthouse is located in the centre of town, about equidistant (300m) for both the northern and southern beaches. The rooms are plainly furnished, but clean and well-maintained. Rooms come with a fridge and some have balconies or efficiency kitchens.
Hotel PlovdivHOTEL$$
(%0550-32 372; www.hotel-primorsko.com; ul Briz 9; d/ste 80/120 lv; aWs)
On a quiet street overlooking North Beach, the Plovdiv is excellent value. Rooms are basic but bright and perfectly comfortable. There's a restaurant and a children's pool. The hotel is open throughout the year, and prices drop considerably out of season.
Spektar PalaceHOTEL$$
(%0550-31 043; www.spektar-palace.com; ul Treti Mart 82; d/tr 60/80 lv; hMay-Oct; paWs)
This modern hotel is situated away from the beaches and closer to the town's entrance on the western end. Because of the location (300m to South Beach) it represents very good value and easy access to the bus station. Spektar has large rooms and excellent facilities, including a small pool and gym.
5Eating
Kebabs, pizzas and burgers from stalls around town seem to be standard fare for most visitors. Some of the better restaurants are on ul Cherno More.
Birariya DionisiiBULGARIAN$
(%0878656220; ul Cherno More 28, cnr ul Hristo Botev; mains 4-6 lv; h11am-11pm May-Oct)
This small, traditional tavern in the southeastern part of town, not far from the top of South Beach, serves up the usual range of Bulgarian specialities as well as pizzas, salads and locally caught fish.
Restaurant AhtamarBULGARIAN$$
(%0885888969; ul Ropotamo 26; mains 7-15 lv; h11am-11pm May-Oct)
One of the few places in town that tries to go beyond the usual range of grills and salads. The speciality here is local fish, prepared in inventive ways. The owner is friendly and can help you sort through the list of Bulgarian wines. The restaurant is located near the exact centre of Primorsko, one block north of the main street, ul Treti Mart.
ChaikaBULGARIAN$$
(%0550-32 990; ul Cherno More; mains 5-20 lv; h11am-midnight May-Oct)
Grilled octopus, mackerel and other fishy dishes feature here; other options include stuffed peppers and goulash. There's outdoor seating in the shady little park behind the restaurant. The restaurant is situated in a red stucco building near where ul Kiril & Metodii meets ul Cherno More, just at the top of South Beach.
8Getting There & Away
Primorsko’s bus station, 1km from the town centre, is where all public transport arrives and departs. From here there are buses to Kiten (1 lv, 10 minutes, roughly every hour), Tsarevo (4 lv, 30 minutes, six daily) and Sozopol (6 lv, 35 minutes, several daily). In addition, a few buses travel daily to Burgas (7 lv, one hour) and Sofia (35 lv, eight hours).
Tsarevo ЦАРЕВО
Pop 5800
Spread lazily over two small peninsulas jutting out into the Black Sea, Tsarevo is a quiet, elegant little town, once a popular holiday spot for the Bulgarian royal family. Called Vasiliko until 1934, it was renamed Tsarevo (‘royal place’) in honour of Tsar Boris III; the communists then renamed it Michurin (after a Soviet botanist) in 1950, and it reverted once again in 1991. The centre, on the larger, northern peninsula, has a calm, affluent atmosphere and feels more like a real town than some of Tsarevo’s seaside-resort neighbours.
1Sights & Activities
With two main beaches, swimming is the main activity, though quiet Tsarevo does not feel like a full-on beach resort in the same way that nearby Primorsko does.
Sea GardensPARK
Offering dramatic panoramic views across the Black Sea, these peaceful gardens overlook the northern peninsula's rocky headland at the end of the main road, ul Han Asparuh.
North BeachBEACH
(h9am-6pm Jun-Sep)
The smaller of Tsarevo's two main beaches, North Beach lies on the northern side of the northern peninsula and is accessible via a stairway that begins on ul Hristo Botev at the intersection with ul Samuil.
South BeachBEACH
(h9am-6pm Jun-Sep)
Bigger and prettier than its northern neighbour, South Beach (or Nestinarka Beach), across the wide bay, occupies a cove along the southern peninsula. Sadly, this is no hideaway beach, as it’s also shared by several modern hotels. The beach is about 2km from the town centre.
Angel DiversDIVING
(%0590-99 379; www.angel-divers.com; Lozenets; beginner dives from 100 lv)
At the heart of the Hotel Lalov Egrek complex in Lozenets, 4km north of Tsarevo, is this top-class diving centre, where there's a dedicated training pool on-site and a wide variety of diving courses on offer. PADI-certified courses are aimed at everyone from beginners to advanced divers.
4Sleeping
There are several hotels in town to suit a range of budgets. If swimming and spending time at the beach are at the top of your 'to do' list, nearby Lozenets is an attractive option.
Hotel Lalov EgrekRESORT$$
(%0590-99 379; www.hotel.lalov.net; Lozenets; s/d/apt 80/120/140 lv; pnaWs)
Around 4km north of Tsarevo, on the outskirts of Lozenets, this beachfront complex enjoys stunning sea views and has an excellent restaurant. There's access to two popular beaches and an in-house diving centre.
Hotel Ribarska SreshtaHOTEL$$
(%0590-52 455; www.hotelribarska.com; ul Kraymorska, Tsarevo Harbour; d/tr/ste 60/85/100 lv; aW)
Looking like a small, stranded cruise liner sitting on the northern side of the fishing harbour, this place has compact, attractive rooms with sea-facing balconies. There's an excellent fish restaurant downstairs, and full board is available for 40 lv per person.
Hotel ZebraHOTEL$$
(%0590-55 111; www.hotel-zebra.com; ul Han Asparuh 10; s/d 60/76 lv; paiWs)
Near the scenic Sea Gardens, on the northern peninsula, this
modern complex offers superb value. The large, comfortable rooms all have balconies and sparkling bathrooms, and there’s an outdoor pool and a restaurant.
Family Hotel DianaHOTEL$$
(%0590-54 855; ul Hristo Botev 2; r from 60 lv; paW)
The Diana is a modern affair with a good location, about 50m up from North Beach, a block north of the centre. Many rooms offer Black Sea views and terraces. There's an on-site restaurant and free parking (rare in tiny Tsarevo), though there's no lift to the third floor.
5Eating
Tsarevo has several good restaurants, including one of the country's best places for fish and seafood.
oRibarska SreshtaSEAFOOD$$
(%0590-52 451; www.hotelribarska.com; ul Kraymorska, Tsarevo Harbour; mains 8-14 lv; h11am-midnight; W)
Even if you're not staying at the hotel, consider lunch or dinner at this authentic fish restaurant. There's an extensive menu of fresh fish, including a local favourite: small bluefish (grilled or fried). Choose from a long list of appetisers and salads, and wash it down with rakia (Bulgarian brandy) as you gaze out over the harbour.
8Getting There & Away
Tsarevo’s bus station is at the top of ul Mikhail Gerdzhikov, toward the highway, about 2km west of the centre. Buses to Burgas (10 lv, 75 minutes) run roughly every 30 minutes to one hour between 6am and 8pm via Kiten (2 lv, 20 minutes) and Primorsko (4 lv, 30 minutes). There are two daily buses to Sofia (37 lv, eight hours).
WORTH A TRIP
STRANDZHA NATURE PARK ПРИРОДЕН ПАРК СТРАНДЖА
The remote Strandzha Nature Park (%05952-3635; www.strandja.bg; h9am-noon, 1-6pm Wed-Sun), established in 1995, occupies a good chunk of the country's southeast, stretching from low-lying central mountains to the southernmost strip of the Black Sea coast. At 1161 sq km, the park is Bulgaria's largest protected area. It shelters a diverse range of flora and fauna, as well as various ancient ruins.
The park is ideal for hiking, as it’s sparsely populated and relatively flat. Several short hikes (1km to 8km long), and longer treks (about 20km) between the coast and the centre of the park, are detailed in the colourful Nature Park Strandzha map (1:70,000). Strandzha is also ideal for swimming as the country's most remote stretches of sandy beach lie within the park's borders.
Malko Târnovo, a small, provincial town 80km south of Burgas, is the administrative centre of the park, and a logical base for exploring the area. Alongside the park's visitor centre and an interesting History Museum (%05952-3664; ul Konstantin Petkanov 1a, Malko Târnovo; adult/child 5/3 lv; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Sat & Sun May-Oct; 8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr), the town is also the beginning or end for many of the park's hiking and cycling paths.
Sinemorets СИНЕМОРЕЦ
Pop 300
If you have your own transport, tiny Sinemorets, with its two lovely white beaches, is a relaxing place to leave the crowds behind. The natural attractions haven't escaped the attention of the developers, sadly, but despite the presence of several modern hotels near the main beach, the atmosphere of remote, slow-paced village life remains. Sinemorets lies within the boundaries of the Strandzha Nature Park and hiking trails lead from just outside the town into the park.
2Activities
There are two public beaches: the main beach (sometimes called Butamya Beach) is located to the southeast of town (follow ul Butamya, the main drag, east and then down a steep hill); a smaller and more attractive beach lies to the north of the centre, where the Veleka River empties into the Black Sea.
4Sleeping
Hotels normally open up in May and run through September. Most places offer some kind of board option for meals. Given the shortage of good restaurants, this may make sense.
Casa DomingoHOTEL$$
(%0590-66 093; www.casadomingo.info; ul Ribarska; s/d/apt from 50/65/130 lv; Ws)
This attractive modern complex has a range of rooms, studios and apartments, set in a pretty garden with an open-air pool and restaurant. Breakfast is 6 lv extra and there are reductions for children under 12 years old. To get here, head east along the main street, ul Butamya, about halfway through the town and turn right (south).
Asti ArthotelHOTEL$$
(%0590-65 504; www.asti.bg; ul Silistar 8; d/apt 80/140 lv; hMay-Sep; paWs)
All of the Asti's 26 apartments have terraces and tiny kitchenettes, and there are also three smaller double rooms. There is a tennis court, pool, playground and restaurant, and bikes are available for rent. To find it, head east along the main street, ul Butamya, about 1km, almost to the main beach, and turn right along an unmarked street. The hotel is signposted.
Dayana Beach HotelHOTEL$$
(%0590-65 502; www.dayanabeach.com; ul Silistar; s/d 60/80 lv; hMay-Sep; paWs)
Close to the main beach, this modern family hotel has bright rooms with verandahs, TVs and fridges. The hotel sits behind the Asti Arthotel.
5Eating
The greatest concentration of places to eat is along ul Butamya, which runs west to east through the centre of town.
ZafoSEAFOOD$$
(%0888401916; www.zafosinemorec.com; ul Butamya 6; mains 8-16 lv; h11am-11pm May-Sep; W)
This pretty garden restaurant located along the main street near the centre of town offers grilled meats and fresh fish. It's popular in the evenings and gets quite festive as the rakia flows.
8Getting There & Away
Public transport to/from Sinemorets is poor. There's one daily bus leaving Burgas in summer (14 lv, two hours), otherwise you’ll need to make your way to Ahtopol and change there for one of the four daily minibuses to Sinemorets (2 lv, 15 minutes).
Central Coast
Pomorie ПОМОРИЕ
Pop 13,500
Like neighbouring Nesebâr, Pomorie sits on a narrow peninsula, and until it was ravaged by fire in 1906 it was almost as picturesque. There, however, the similarities end. The old town centre, situated on the far eastern end of the peninsula, has a lazy charm, and there's a pleasant and usually not very crowded beach. Pomorie is very much a Bulgarian resort and is almost entirely bypassed by foreign tourists.
Pomorie Lake, to the north, is a saline coastal lagoon where sea salt is produced and medicinal mud is extracted. The lake is also an important sanctuary for birds, including terns, avocets and stilts. The NGO Green Balkans (www.greenbalkans.org) is active in species conservation here and operates a visitor centre to educate the public on the lake's flora and fauna.
1Sights & Activities
The main sight for most visitors is the beach, though there are a couple of important religious buildings to see. Nature enthusiasts and birders will want to visit the Pomorie Lake Visitor Centre to see first hand the conservation efforts taking place in the region.
Pomorie Lake Visitor CentreNATURE RESERVE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0885108712; www.greenbalkans.org; adult/child 4/2 lv; h9.30am-noon & 1.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun)
This interactive visitor centre provides information on bird- and species-conservation efforts on Pomorie Lake undertaken by the NGO Green Balkans. From the terrace, visitors can see the main breeding colonies (with fieldscopes and binoculars provided). There's also an ecotrail that passes along the dyke on the side of the lake. The centre is situated along the southern edge of the lake, about 1km west of the beachfront promenade.
Salt MuseumMUSEUM
(%0596-25 344; www.saltmuseum.bg; adult/child 4/2 lv; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-May)
Pomorie Lake has been an important source of salt, via salt panning, through the ages. Visitors learn the techniques of panning as well as the history of salt extraction. The museum is located next to the Pomorie Lake Visitor Centre, along the southern edge of the lake.
Preobrazhenie Gospodne ChurchCHURCH
( GOOGLE MAP )
This most atmospheric of the town's churches is located in the oldest part of the settlement, on the far eastern end of the outcropping. The church dates from 1765.
&n
bsp; 4Sleeping
Hotel Pri AmerikanecaHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0596-22 824; www.attheamericans.com; ul Knyaz Boris I 9, cnr ul Vitosha; r 100 lv; paiW)
The curiously named 'At the Americans' is a modern seafront hotel in the old town, with its own private beach. The 12 spacious studios all have balconies and panoramic sea views, and there's a restaurant and cocktail bar on-site. It's located south of the main beachfront promenade, on the extreme southeastern end of the peninsula.
Zeus HotelHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0888866174; www.zeus-hotel.com; ul Rakovska 9, cnr ul Aheloi; s/d 65/85 lv; aW)
The town-centre Zeus has a variety of cosy rooms, all with balconies, fridges and TVs. Prices drop by up to 50% outside the summer season. To find it, follow ul Aheloj toward the centre about 200m from the main beachfront promenade (ul Kraybrezhna).
5Eating
The beachfront promenade, ul Kraybrezhna, is lined with restaurants, while better options (with multilingual menus) are found near the Preobrazhenie Gospodne Church.
Restaurant TsarevetsBULGARIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0875148517; ul Knyaz Boris I 5; mains 7-20 lv; h11am-11pm)
One of the better options in town, near the Preobrazhenie Gospodne Church on the extreme southeastern end of the peninsula, offering grilled pork, chicken and fish dishes. The back terrace looks out onto the beach of the nearby Hotel Pri Amerikaneca.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 74
