Vrachanski Balkan Nature ParkNATIONAL PARK
Numerous species of birds, 700 types of trees and about 500 caves distinguish this nature park of 288 sq km, southwest of Vratsa. Although some of the rocky outcroppings are fragile, they’re still open to rock climbers and hang-gliders.
Ledenika CaveCAVE
(%0888245509; www.vratza.bg; guided tours per person 6 lv; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar)
The 'ice' cave, as its Bulgarian name translates to, is 16km west of Vratsa, within the Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park. It's sheathed in ice for much of the winter, but thaws in summer, when visitors on guided tours arrive to explore it. There's no public transport, so you'll have to hike (three hours from Vratsa) or take a taxi (15 lv).
Sveti Sofronii Vrachanski Ethnographical & Revival ComplexMUSEUM
(%092-624 573; www.vratsamuseum.com; ul Targovska; adult/child 3/1 lv; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
This interesting museum complex consists of four National Revival–era buildings displaying traditional costumes, instruments, toys, domestic interiors and silk-weaving apparatus. There's also a collection of vintage vehicles, including a sleigh and 19th-century carriages. The gardens are free to wander around in; buy a ticket at the Vaznesenie School building and ask them to open the other buildings for you.
2Activities
Within Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park there are relaxed hiking trails in the forested hills southwest of the main square and tougher treks along the river road towards Ledenika Cave, where several marked hiking trails exist. Rock climbing – for the truly fearless – is performed on the sheer mountain cliffs that straddle the road.
4Sleeping
Hotel HemusHOTEL$$
(%092-624 150; www.hotelhemus.com; pl Hristo Botev 1; s/d 55/70 lv; pWs)
This high-rise hotel on the main square remains the best accommodation option in town, though the rooms and corridors have a mustiness about them that cries out for renovation. Room prices are reasonable for the central location, and there's a small pool and a pleasant terrace restaurant on the premises.
Hotel ChaikaHOTEL$$
(%092-621 369; www.chaika.net; d 45-65 lv, ste 70-160 lv; pW)
This traditional inn with a very good garden restaurant is located 1km south of town, along the road to Ledenika Cave. The gorge setting is spectacular, though the plain rooms are just okay. Room prices reflect size and views, and several have terraces. Walk 20 minutes from the centre, or take a taxi (4 lv from the train or bus station).
5Eating & Drinking
Trakiiska PrintsesaINTERNATIONAL$
(%0888099966; bul Nikola Voyvodov 12; mains 4-9 lv; h8am-midnight; Wv)
On Vratsa's main pedestrian street, this is a pleasant place for a coffee or a variety of light meals. Salads, risottos, fish and pasta dishes are served. The chicken fettuccine is very good.
PintataBULGARIAN$$
(%092-621 873; ul Sofroniy Vrachanski 17; mains 8-15 lv; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat; v)
A good choice for dinner, this is arguably the best restaurant in the centre. The little garden lies behind an unpromising street and feels like an oasis. There's a nice list of rakia (Bulgaria brandy) and wine, and some very good salads and meat dishes. It's located in the northern end of the centre, about 300m north of pl Hristo Botev.
8Information
Some 200m south of Vratsa town centre heading to the gorge, the Natura Information Centre (%092-660 318; www.vr-balkan.net; ul Pop Sava Katralfilov 27-29; h9am-noon & 1-5pm Apr-Oct, closed Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) is the first port of call for information on hiking and sights in the Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park. You'll recognise the unusual building on sight: a former mosque from Ottoman times.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The bus station (%092-622 558; bul Vasil Kanchev 98) is 200m east of the train station. Buses travel hourly to/from Sofia (10 lv, two hours) and even more frequently between 6am and 9am. One or two buses daily serve Pleven (10 lv, 2½ hours) and three or four to Vidin (13 lv, 2½ hours).
Train
Services from the oversized train station (%092-624 415; bul Vasil Kanchev) include Sofia (8 lv, two hours, five daily), Montana (3.60 lv, one hour, six daily) and Vidin (10 lv, three hours, four daily); the latter passes through Gara Oreshets, from where you can get a taxi to Belogradchik.
For more distant destinations, connect to nearby Mezdra train station, 20 minutes to the south, and change there. From Mezra four daily trains serve northern Bulgarian destinations such as Pleven (6.50 lv, one to two hours), Ruse (15.30 lv, four hours) and Varna 20 lv, six to nine hours).
WORTH A TRIP
CHEREPISH MONASTERY
Founded in the 14th-century, Cherepish Monastery was torched, toppled and rebuilt repeatedly during the Ottoman period. Like many other monasteries, it was used by rebels as a hiding place before and during the Russo-Turkish War (1877–78). The museum displays icons and has Bulgarian-language books about the monastery and local history. There's basic guesthouse accommodation (20 lv per person) if you want to stay.
The monastery is 30km southeast of Vratsa on the Mezdra–Zverino route. Buses from Sofia heading toward Mezdra, Vratsa, Montana or Vidin pass the monastery; disembark at the Zverino turn-off and walk west 6km. If driving from Sofia, the most aesthetically appealing approach is the slower but scenic road through the stunning Iskâr Gorge, via Novi Iskâr.
Chiprovtsi ЧИПРОВЦИ
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Famous for its traditional carpets and quaint monastery, Chiprovtsi is little more than a rather quiet village tucked into the foothills of the Stara Planina (Balkan Range) mountains. It has a fascinating history as a mining town and a bastion of Catholicism in Orthodox Bulgaria. In more recent years, it's become a popular weekend destination for Sofia city dwellers but, truth be told, there's not much to see or do (and that may be part of the appeal).
1Sights
Chiprovtsi MonasteryMONASTERY
(%0878970388; h8am-8pm)F
Founded in the 10th century, this working monastery, dedicated to Sveti Ivan Rilski (St John of Rila), was destroyed and rebuilt several times over the years – what you see today dates largely from the early 19th century. It's roughly 7km northeast of Chiprovtsi village; take any bus between Montana and Chiprovtsi.
Historical MuseumMUSEUM
(%095-542 168; ul Vitosha 2; 2 lv; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat-Sun)
This small museum, situated in the centre of Chiprovtsi above a small stream, tells the story of the village, focusing on its gold- and silver-mining traditions and its unusual (for Bulgaria) history as a Catholic and Saxon enclave. Also on display are period weapons, traditional costumes and colourful examples of the local Chiprovtsi carpets.
4Sleeping & Eating
Chiprovtsi has one very nice hotel and a handful of acceptable guesthouses. Reserve in advance.
Pavlova KâshtaGUESTHOUSE$
(%095-542 242; ul Pavleto 17; r 35 lv)
The Pavlova Kâshta is a dusty white-stone building offering basic, though airy and clean, rooms. The adjacent mehana (tavern) does good Bulgarian meals.
oHotel KiprovetsHOTEL$$
(%0886853311; ul Ivan Stanislavov 4; r/apt 45/65 lv; pW)
Far and away the nicest accommodation option in town. The room decor blends modern elements such as tiled floors and flat-screen TVs with old-fashioned touches like wood-beamed ceilings. The family owners couldn't be nicer, and there's an excellent restaurant and barbecue onsite. Worth keeping in mind for lunch or dinner even if you're not sleeping here.
8Information
Chiprovtsi Tourist Information Centre (%0885258405; bul Petar Parchevich; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Located in the municipal administration building in the centre of town. Don't expect much in the way of maps or information, though the staff may be able to answer basic questions.
8Getting There & Away
Several daily buses and minibuses connect Montana and Chiprovtsi (5 lv, one hour). By car, Chiprovtsi is about 50
km from Belogradchik (one hour).
WORTH A TRIP
LOPUSHANSKI MONASTERY
Some 21km west of Montana, near the village of Georgi Damyanovo, Lopushanski Monastery (%0887-397 301; www.lopushanski-monastery.domino.bg; Georgi Damyanovo; h8am-6pm), completed in 1853, enjoys a serene setting and holds icons painted by brothers Stanislav and Nikolai Dospevski. During the periodic rebellions against Ottoman rule, Lopushanski (also known as St John the Precursor) provided a safe haven for revolutionaries.
The Lopushanski Monastery Guesthouse (Balova Shouma Inn; %0887-397 301; www.lopushanski-monastery.domino.bg; Georgi Damyanovo; r from 25 lv; a) is situated within the grounds of the monastery. The attached cafe has indoor and outdoor seating in a peaceful location and serves decent food.
Belogradchik БЕЛОГРАДЧИК
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The crisp mountain air and the weird and wonderful rock formations that rise from a lonely horizon of hills are what draw visitors to little Belogradchik, on the eastern edge of the Stara Planina mountain range. Although rather remote, Belogradchik’s charms are starting to attract more visitors.
1Sights
Belogradchik RocksROCK FORMATIONS
The massive Belogradchik sandstone and limestone rock formations cover an area of around 90 sq km and tower over the town. The rocks, standing up to 200m high, were sculpted over millions of years by natural compression. Several hiking trails of varying difficulty lace through the rocks. The tourist information centre has a map of the routes.
The 'Monks', the 'Bear', the 'Shepherd Boy' and 'Adam and Eve' are just some of the named formations.
Kaleto FortressFORTRESS
(%093-653 001; www.muzeibelogradchik.com; ul Tsolo Todorov; 6 lv; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep, to 5pm Oct-May)
Almost blending in with the surrounding rocks, the Kaleto Fortress was originally built by the Romans and later expanded by the Byzantines, Bulgarians and Turks. Most of what you see today was completed in the 1830s. You can wander round three courtyards and explore the defensive bunkers; accessing the highest rocks involves a precarious climb up steep ladders.
The fortress lies about 1km west of the centre. The location is signposted. To find it, follow ul Tsolo Todorov uphill to the end of the street.
Museum of Nature and ScienceMUSEUM
(%093-653 231; www.muzeibelogradchik.com; adult/child 3/2 lv; h9am-noon, 2-5pm Apr-Oct)
Affiliated with Belogradchik's history museum, the nature department displays unusual local flora and fauna. To get here, proceed from the large, modern Hotel Skalite in the centre up ul Vasil Levski, turn right, and follow the path for 600m. From here there are great views over the Belogradchik rocks.
LEGENDS OF THE ROCKS
For centuries the Belogradchik rock formations have fired the imaginations of local people. These twisting, contorted pillars of stone seem to take on the most curious shapes, both human and animal.
One legend tells the tragic tale of Valentina, a young nun renowned for her beauty. One day, during a holy festival, a young nobleman came along and was immediately smitten. The two began an illicit affair, which was only discovered when Valentina gave birth to a child in the convent. The Mother Superior and a council of monks decided to expel her. As she left, in tears, her lover came riding towards her on his white horse. At this moment, the sky turned black and terrifying thunder rent the air. The ground opened up and consumed the convent and everyone was turned to stone where they stood – including Valentina, who was transformed into the rock known today as the 'Madonna'.
2Activities
Not far from Belogradchik, visitors have the chance to combine two usually unrelated but enjoyable activities: caving and wine-tasting. The Magura Cave (%089-448 1955; Rabisha; adult/child 5/3 lv; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) is one the largest in Bulgaria, with a total length of about 3km. It's known for the size of its stalagmites and stalactites, as well as surviving cave art going back several thousand years.
After tramping around, indulge in something a tad more refined: a tasting at the nearby Magura Winery (%head office 02-857 0015, winery 093-296 230; www.magurawinery.bg; Rabisha; tasting packages per person from 25 lv). Check the winery website for several different tasting options. Both the cave and winery are about 20km north of Belogradchik.
4Sleeping
Drakite GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%093-653 930; www.drakite.com; ul Treti Mart 37; r from 30 lv; pW)
This modest guesthouse is located in the western part of the town, about 400m down from the entrance to the Kaleto Fortress. There are five rooms, some with balconies and en suite bathrooms. The property is run by a helpful English-speaking local who also organises fishing trips and transport. The whole house can be rented for 175 lv per day.
Guesthouse GetoGUESTHOUSE$
(%093-653 388; http://getobelogradchik.alle.bg; ul Treti Mart 47; r from 30 lv; paW#)
This cosy guesthouse is located in the western part of the town, about 400m down from the entrance to the Kaleto Fortress. Modest rooms come with balconies and private baths, and some have separate kitchens. There's a communal kitchen and a hot tub as well. Guests can hire bikes for around 10 lv per day.
oHotel SkaliteHOTEL$$
(%0884514154, 094-691 210; www.skalite.bg; pl Vazrazhdane 2; s/d from 80/100 lv; pais)
This modern four-star place in the town centre has the best rooms and facilities in Belogradchik, including a spa, a gym, a restaurant and an appealing terrace bar. Prices rise slightly at weekends.
5Eating
Mislen KamakBULGARIAN$
(%0879830207; mains 6-10 lv; h10am-2am)
Magnificent views over the Belogradchik rocks make up for mediocre food at this terrace restaurant located just south of the centre. The menu features salads and grilled meats, and a long list of rakia (Bulgarian brandy) drinks. On summer weekends, arrive before traditional meal times to snag an outdoor table. To find it, follow the uphill path that starts behind the Hotel Skalite.
Restaurant Pri IvanBULGARIAN$$
(%0879207712; www.priivan.com; ul Yuri Gagarin 3; mains 10-15 lv; h8am-midnight)
Pri Ivan is arguably the best of a tiny number of restaurants in town and offers a variety of traditional Bulgarian and Balkan dishes, including lots of salads and grilled-meat specialities. To find the restaurant, proceed past the large, modern Hotel Skalite up ul Vasil Levski about 200m and then turn left.
8Information
The tourist information centre (%0877881283; ul Poruchik Dvoryanov 1a; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) can help with information on local accommodation, and supplies free maps and leaflets.
8Getting There & Away
Belogradchik's bus station (bul Saedinenie 1) has a couple of daily departures to Vidin (5 lv, one hour) and a 6am service to Sofia (16 lv, four hours) via Montana.
The nearest train station is 9km away at Gara Oreshets, but there are no public buses that make the trip there. The only option is to take a taxi (about 8 lv). Several daily trains from Gara Oreshets serve Vidin (5 lv, 30 minutes), Vratsa (7 lv, 20 minutes) and Sofia (10 lv, 3½ hours).
WORTH A TRIP
VIDIN ВИДИН
Resting on a bend in the Danube in the far northwest of Bulgaria, the town of Vidin feels a long way from anywhere, and unless you're crossing into Romania, there seems little obvious reason for you to wend your way here. But don’t dismiss it so easily. Vidin does enjoy some fine riverside views and its one major attraction, the majestic Baba Vida Fortress ( GOOGLE MAP ; %094-601 705; www.museum-vidin.domino.bg; Kraidunavski Park; adult/child 4/2 lv, combined ticket with Archaeological Museum 5 lv; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat-Sun), is one of the best preserved Ottoman fortresses in the country.
Baba Vida is a marvellously intact 17th-century Turkish upgrade of 10th-century Bulgarian fortifications. These in turn were built on the ruins of a 3rd-century Roman fort called Bononia. You’ll find it at the northern end of Vidin’s pretty riverside park.
Vidin makes a convenient overnight if you’r
e coming over the bridge from Romania. The Old Town (Hotel Staryat Grad; GOOGLE MAP ; %094-600 023; www.oldtownhotel.dir.bg; ul Knyaz Boris I 2; s/d/tr 60/80/100 lv; aW) is a charming boutique hotel situated in a renovated townhouse. For a meal, try the central Classic Pizzeria ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0878656402; www.vidinrestaurants.com; ul Knyaz Al Battenberg 23; mains 8-15 lv; h11am-11pm; W). Its big menu includes grilled meats and fish.
Ruse РУСЕ
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One of Bulgaria's most elegant cities, Ruse, sometimes written 'Rousse', has more than a touch of Mitteleuropa (Central Europe) grandness not seen elsewhere in the country. It's a city of imposing belle époque architecture and neatly trimmed leafy squares, as if a little chunk of Vienna had broken off and floated down the Danube. Its past is abundantly displayed in several museums and in its ruined Roman fortress, standing guard high over the Danube.
Ruse is also a base for visiting the nearby rock monasteries and other attractions at Rusenski Lom Nature Park.
History
Named Sexaginta Prista or the 'Port of Sixty Ships' by the Romans, the fortress at Ruse once stood guard over the Danube. The town declined under the Byzantines and Bulgarians, but its fortunes revived under the Turks, who called it Roustchouk. It developed great economic and cultural importance and, in 1866, became the first station on the first railway line in the entire Ottoman Empire, which linked the Danube with the Black Sea at Varna.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 78
