Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


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  Larousse.

  Lief, A. 1951. The Firestone Story: A History of the Firestone Tire and Rubber Com-

  pany. New York: Whittlesey House.

  Los Angeles Examiner. 1942. ‘‘Hair Style Used in Identification of Hoodlums: Sus-

  pects Must Not Change Haircut, Judge Rules,’’ October 27.

  Los Angeles Times. 1934. ‘‘New College Clothes Look Both Cheerful and Casual,’’

  September 10, A8.

  Lowrey, C. 1920. The First One Hundred Noted Men and Women of the Screen.

  New York: Moffat, Yard and Company.

  Lucie-Smith, E. 1996. Art Deco Painting. London: Phaidon.

  MacPhail, A. 1999. The Well Dressed Child. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing.

  Marc, E. 1993. Walt Disney: Hollywood’s Dark Prince. Secaucus, NJ: Carol Pub-

  lishing Group.

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  KS: University Press of Kansas.

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  D. Emblidge. New York: Carroll and Graf Publishers.

  Matanle, I. 1994. History of World War II, 1939–1945. Little Rock, AR: Tiger

  Books International.

  350

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  McKay, J. P. 1999. A History of Western Society. New York: Hougton Mifflin.

  Mendes, V. D., and De La Haye, A. 1999. 20th Century Fashion. London:

  Thames and Hudson.

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  Mizejewski, L. 1999. Ziegfield Girl: Image and Icon in Culture and Cinema. Dur-

  ham, NC: Duke University Press.

  Modell, J. 1989. Into One’s Own: From Youth to Adulthood in the United States,

  1920–1975. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.

  Mordden, E. 1978. That Jazz! An Idiosyncratic Social History of the American

  Twenties. New York: Putnam.

  Municchi, A. 1996. Ladies in Furs: 1900–1940. Modena, Italy: Zanfi Editori.

  Murrin, J. M., Johnson, P. E., McPherson, J. M., Gerstle, G., Rosenberg, E. S.,

  and Rosenberg, N. 2004. Liberty, Equality, Power: A History of the American

  People. Vol. 2 since 1863. Belmont, CA: Thomson.

  New York Times. 1910. ‘‘Marriage of Minors Legal till Annulled,’’ March 13.

  New York Times. 1912. ‘‘Spring Lingerie Changed to Suit New Gowns,’’ March 24.

  New York Times. 1913. ‘‘Concealed Marriages of Women Teachers,’’ March 23.

  New York Times. 1913. ‘ Writing the Movies: A New and Well-Paid Business,’’

  August 3.

  New York Times. 1914. ‘‘Lauds Sex Lessons in Public Schools,’’ June 16.

  New York Times. 1915. ‘‘Eugenic Marriages Urged for Jersey,’’ November 20.

  New York Times. 1915. ‘‘Latest Customs Rulings,’’ December 4.

  New York Times. 1917. ‘‘Denounce Slackers in Marriage Rush,’’ April 11.

  New York Times. 1918. ‘‘Slacker Marriage Not a Draft Excuse,’’ January 27.

  New York Times. 1923. ‘‘Egypt Dominates Fashion Show Here: Designs Copied

  from Luxor Pictures Decorate Many Suit Models,’’ February 25.

  New York Times. 1924. ‘‘Pretty Materials in Endless Variety,’’ May 11, X10.

  New York Times. 1924. ‘‘Choosing the First Party Dress,’’ December 7, X13.

  New York Times. 1926. ‘‘Styles for Young Charm,’’ December 5, X17.

  New York Times. 1928. ‘‘Modernistic Dress in the Nursery,’’ December 16, X14.

  New York Times. 1930. ‘‘Spring Styles Ban the Short Skirt,’’ January 15, 27.

  Nolan, C. Ladies Fashion of the 1940s. http://www.murrayonhawaii.com/nolan/

  fashionhistory 1940ladies.html.

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  New York: Oxford University Press.

  Olian, J., ed. 1990. Authentic French Fashions of the Twenties: 413 Costume Designs

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  Olian, J., ed. 1992. Everyday Fashions of the Forties: As Pictured in Sears Catalogs.

  New York: Dover Publications.

  Olian, J. 1995. Everyday Fashions 1909–1920: As Pictured in Sears Catalogs. New

  York: Dover Publications.

  Olian, J., ed. 1998. Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from ‘‘La Mode Illustree.’’

  Mineola, NY: Dover Publications.

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  351

  Olian, J., ed. 2003. Children’s Fashions 1900–1950: As Pictured in Sears Catalogs.

  Mineola, NY: Dover Publications.

  Parrish, A. 1934. ‘‘Clothes for Spring Baby in Traditional Style: Timely Advice

  on His Attire Given to Mothers,’’ Washington Post, February 6, 12.

  Paul, D. 1973. The Navajo Code Talkers. Pittsburgh, PA: Dorrance Publishing.

  Peacock, J. 1996. Men’s Fashion: The Complete Source Book. New York: Thames

  and Hudson.

  Peacock, J. 1998. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1940s. New York: Thames and

  Hudson.

  Peacock, J. 2000. Fashion Accessories: The Complete 20th Century Sourcebooks with

  2000 Full Color Illustrations. London: Thames and Hudson.

  Perrett, G. 1982. America in the Twenties, A History. New York: Simon and

  Schuster.

  Pointer, S. 2005. The Artifice of Beauty: A History and Practical Guide to Perfumes

  and Cosmetics. Gloucestershire, UK: Sutton Publishing Limited.

  Probert, C. 1981a. Hats in Vogue since 1910. New York: Abbeville Press.

  Probert, C. 1981b. Swimwear in Vogue since 1910. London: Thames and Hudson.

  Reeves, T. C. 2000. Twentieth Century America: A Brief History. Oxford: Oxford

  University Press.

  Richardson, D. E., ed. 1982. Vanity Fair: Photographs of an Age, 1914–1936. New

  York: Clarkson N. Potter.

  Rittenhouse, A. 1910. ‘ What the Well Dressed Women Are Wearing,’’ New York

  Times, April 10.

  Rowbotham, S. 1997. A Century of Women. New York: Penguin Books.

  Schrier, B. A. 1994. Becoming American Women: Clothing and the Jewish Immigrant

  Experience 1880–1920. Chicago: Chicago Historical Society.

  Schrum, K. 2004. Some Wore Bobby Sox: The Emergence of Teenage Girls’ Culture

  1920–1945. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.

  Seeger, R. 1932. ‘‘Lovely Colors Enhance New Things for Baby,’’ Chicago Daily

  Tribune, June 20, 13.

  Seeger, R. 1932. ‘‘Juniors Help Freshman by Their Clothes,’’ Chicago Daily Trib-

  une, August 19, 15.

  Seeling, C. 2000. Fashion: The Century of the Designer 1900–1999. English edi-

  tion. Cologne, Germany: Konemann.

  Sellars, R. W. 1997. Preserving Nature in National Parks: A History. New Haven,

  CT: Yale University Press.

  Simpson, G. E., and Yinger, J. M. 1985. Racial and Cultural Minorities: An Anal-

  ysis of Prejudice and Discrimination. New York: Springer.

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  ing. Belmont, CA: Wadsworth Publishing Company.

  The American Oil and Gas Historical Society. 2005. ‘A Crude Story of Vaseline

  and Mabel’s Eyelashes.’’ The Petroleum Age, March 1, 2:1.

  ‘ The Family Page.’’ 1924. The Youth’s Companion, June 19, 98:25.

  The Guardian. 1945. ‘‘Frank Sinatra and the ‘Bobby-Soxers,’’ January 10.


  352

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  Time Magazine. 1940. ‘‘Synthetic Sale,’’ May 27.

  Tortora, P. G., and Eubank, K. 2005. Survey of Historic Costume: A History of

  Western Dress, 4th Edition. New York: Fairchild Publications.

  U.S. Bureau of Citizenship and Immigration Services. Statistical Yearbook, Annual.

  U.S. Census Bureau. April 11, 2002. Current Population Reports, P25–311,

  P25–802, and P25–1095.

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  Sex: 1900 to 2001.

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  2000, and Projections.

  U.S. Census Bureau. 2003. No. HS-30. Marital Status of Women in the Civilian

  Labor Force: 1900 to 2002.

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  Von Schilling, J. A. 2003. The Magic Window: American Television 1939–1953.

  Binghamton, NY: Haworth Press.

  Ware, S. 1982. Holding Their Own: American Women in the 1930s. Boston: G. K.

  Hall.

  Warren, V. L. 1934. ‘‘Girls Seek a Certain Distinctive Sloppiness in Clothes for

  the Campus,’’ Washington Post, August 19, S7.

  Washington Post 1920. ‘‘Of Interest to Women,’’ January 12, 8.

  Washington Post. 1931. ‘‘Clothing for the Young Baby,’’ March 1, MF12.

  Washington Post. 1932. ‘‘College Girls’ Wardrobe Is on Display,’’ September 4, S5.

  Washington Post. 1934. ‘‘Plaids Brighten Campus Styles,’’ September 7, 14.

  Washington Post. 1935. ‘‘Rows of Buttons Decline in Favor,’’ October 17, F4.

  Watson, L. 2004. 20th Century Fashion. Buffalo, NY: Firefly Books.

  Whitaker, J. 2006. Service and Style: How the American Department Store Fashioned

  the Middle Class. New York: St. Marin’s Press.

  Willever-Farr, H., and Parascandola, J. The Cadet Nurse Corps, 1943 48. Public

  Health Reports, 109, pp. 455 457.

  Wilson, V. P. 1925. ‘‘Gowns,’’ Washington Post, December 20, X5.

  Yeager, L. 1976. International Monetary Relations: Theory, History, and Policy.

  New York: Harper Row.

  Zinn, H. 1995. A People’s History of the United States. New York: Harpers Perennial.

  F I L M S A N D V I D E O M E D I A

  1910S

  Cruel, Cruel Love. Directed by George Nichols and Mack Sennett. Keystone Film

  Company, 1914.

  Lucille Love: The Girl of Mystery. Directed by Francis Ford. Universal Film Manu-

  facturing, 1914.

  Mabel and Fatty Viewing the World’s Fair at San Francisco. Directed by Roscoe

  ‘‘Fatty’ Arbuckle and Mabel Normand. Keystone Film Company, 1915.

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  353

  The Forbidden Path. Directed by J. Gordon Edwards. Fox Film Corporation,

  1918.

  1920S

  Fine Manners. Directed by Richard Rosson. Famous Players-Lasky Corporation,

  1926.

  Head Over Heels. Directed by Paul Bern and Victor Schertzinger. Goldwyn Pic-

  tures Corporation, 1922.

  Ladies of the Mob. Directed by William A. Wellman. Paramount Famous Lasky

  Corporation, 1928.

  Rolled Stockings. Directed by Richard Rosson. Paramount Famous Lasky Corpora-

  tion, 1927.

  The Law Forbids. Directed by Jess Robbins. Universal Pictures, 1924.

  1930S

  Big Business Girl. Directed by William A. Seiter. Vitaphone Corporation, 1931.

  Curly Top. Directed by Irving Cummings. Fox Film Corporation, 1935.

  Front Page Woman. Directed by Michael Curtiz. Warner Bros. Pictures, 1935.

  Grand Hotel. Directed by Edmund Goulding. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 1932.

  It Happened One Night. Directed by Frank Capra. Columbia Pictures Corpora-

  tion, 1934.

  Mr. Deeds Goes to Town. Directed by Frank Capra. Frank Capra Productions,

  1936.

  No Man of Her Own. Directed by Wesley Ruggles. Paramount Pictures, 1932.

  Platinum Blonde. Directed by Frank Capra. Columbia Pictures Corporation, 1931.

  Storm in a Teacup. Directed by Ian Dalrymple and Victor Saville. Victor Saville

  Productions, 1937.

  The Divorcee. Directed by Robert Z. Leonard. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 1930.

  The Thin Man. Directed by W. S. Van Dyke. Cosmopolitan Productions, 1934.

  Wife vs. Secretary. Directed by Clarence Brown. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 1936.

  You Can’t Take It With You. Directed by Frank Capra. Columbia Pictures Corpo-

  ration, 1938.

  1940S

  A Song to Remember. Directed by Charles Vidor. Columbia Pictures Corporation, 1945.

  Adam’s Rib. Directed by George Cukor. Loew’s, 1949.

  Anchors Aweigh. Directed by George Sidney. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 1945.

  Casablanca. Directed by Michael Curtiz. Warner Bros. Pictures, 1942.

  His Girl Friday. Directed by Howard Hawks. Columbia Pictures Corporation, 1940.

  Hollywood Canteen. Directed by Delmer Daves. Warner Bros. Pictures, 1944.

  Lost Weekend. Directed by Billy Wilder. Paramount Pictures, 1945.

  Manpower. Directed by Raoul Walsh. Warner Bros. Pictures, 1941.

  354

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  Mildred Pierce. Directed by Michael Curtiz. Warner Bros.-First National Pictures, 1945.

  Miracle on 34th Street. Directed by George Seaton. Twentieth Century Fox Film

  Corporation, 1947.

  Notorious. Directed by Alfred Hitchcock. Vanguard Films, 1946.

  Spellbound. Directed by Alfred Hitchcock. Vanguard Films, 1945.

  Suspicion. Directed by Alfred Hitchcock. RKO Radio Pictures, 1941.

  The Bachelor and the Bobby-Soxer. Directed by Irving Reis. RKO Radio Pictures, 1947.

  The Best Years of Our Lives. Directed by William Wyler. Samuel Goldwyn Com-

  pany, 1946.

  The Great Man’s Lady. Directed by William A. Wellman. Paramount Pictures, 1942.

  The Maltese Falcon. Directed by John Huston. Warner Bros. Pictures, 1941.

  The Philadelphia Story. Directed by George Cukor. Loew’s, 1940.

  The Postman Always Rings Twice. Directed by Tay Garnett. Loew’s, 1946.

  The Well-Groomed Bride. Directed by Sidney Lanfield. Paramount Pictures, 1946.

  Woman of the Year. Directed by George Stevens. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 1942.

  M U S E U M S , ORGANIZATIONS, SPECIAL

  CO LLE C T I O N S , AND USEF UL WEBSITES

  MUSEUMS AND SPECIAL COLLECTIONS

  Bata Shoe Museum

  327 Bloor Street West

  Toronto, ON

  Canada M5S 1W7

  416-979-7799

  www.batashoemuseum.ca

  Chicago Historical Museum

  An extensive collection of more than 50,000 costume and textile artifacts,

  designed by and worn by Chicagoans from the famous (Abraham Lincoln and

  Michael Jordan) to everyday people.

  Cincinnati Art Museum

  Has an extensive costume and textile collection, searchable online.

  953 Eden Park Drive

  Cincinnati, OH 45202

  513-721-2787

  www.cincinnatiartmuseum.org

  Costume Museum of Canada

  Contains more than 35,000 artifacts from more than 400 years, including design-

  ers such as Chanel.

  109 Pacific Avenue

  Winnipeg, Manitoba

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  355

  Canada, R3B 0M1

  204-989-0072

  www.costumemuseum.com

  Elizabeth Sage Hist
oric Costume Collection

  Includes ‘ military, occupational, and sports uniforms; hand-crafted haute couture

  ensembles; ready-to-wear apparel … garments designed by Hoosier natives

  Bill Blass and Norman Norell and home sewing patterns’’ (from the website).

  Indiana University-Bloomington

  1021 East Third Street

  Bloomington, IN 47405

  812-855-5497

  www.indiana.edu/sagecoll/

  Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising

  Includes more than 10,000 costumes, accessories and textiles, from the eighteenth

  century to the present

  919 South Grand Avenue

  Los Angeles, CA 90015 1421

  213-623-5821

  www.fidm.edu/resources/museumþgalleries/index.html

  Fashion Institute of Technology

  The Museum

  One of the few museums in the world devoted entirely to fashion design, span-

  ning more than 250 years of fashion and textiles.

  Seventh Avenue at 27th Street

  New York, NY 10001 5992

  212-217-5800

  www.fitnyc.edu/aspx/Content.aspx?menu¼FutureGlobal:Museum

  Goldstein Museum of Design

  Selections from the Costume Collection are searchable online. It ‘‘features works

  from designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Issey Miyake to a Chinese Imperial Robe;

  from an assortment of beaded handbags to children’s shoes’ (from the website).

  University of Minnesota

  240 McNeal Hall

  1985 Buford Avenue

  St. Paul, MN 55108

  612-624-7434

  http://goldstein.che.umn.edu/

  Henry Ford Museum

  The Clothing and Personal Effects Collection contains more than 10,000 items

  from 1750 to the present.

  356

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  P.O. Box 1970

  Dearborn, MI 48121

  313-982-6001

  www.hfmgv.org/

  Hope B. McCormick Costume Collection

  1601 N. Clark Street

  Chicago, IL 60614

  312-642-5035

  www.chicagohs.org

  Indiana State Museum

  Features an online catalog of clothes donated to the museum, with items from

  the nineteenth century through the twentieth century.

  202 N. Alabama Street

  Indianapolis, IN 46204

  317-232-1637

  www.in.gov/ism/

  Kent State University Museum

  The museum provides an online dictionary of fashion, ‘‘Bisonnette on Costume’’ by

  Anne Bissonette, curator of the Fashion Museum at Kent State, featuring pho-

 

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