If you don’t have enough space in your home or would like additional growing space for your year-round vertical garden, you can build or buy a green house. This will keep your plants warm enough during the winter to keep them growing.
You’d be surprised at how many plants you could fit into a greenhouse using vertical gardening setups, compared to what would be allowed with in-the-ground gardening. You can produce a large yield of fruits, vegetables and herbs that can be plucked year-round. You may just fall in love with a vertical garden greenhouse!
Grow Annuals, Perennials and Vines
These types of plants grow fast and don’t need much help to do so. Even without much light and human intervention, they grow rapidly and produce lots of flowers. You can grow these on your walls in pots or frames.
Make sure to keep the dead wood and leaves trimmed off so that the plant will continue to grow. Keep in mind that annuals grow faster than perennials - if you are going to start seeds indoors, you want to time it correctly.
CHAPTER 7. COMPOSTING FOR YOUR VERTICAL GARDEN
When I was a kid growing up, my parents had a big “compost pile” in our back yard. It was always my chore every week to take out the “compost bucket” underneath our sink.
We always had a very strict policy – if we were going to throw something away and it was food scraps, we had to throw them in the compost bucket. If it was plastic or paper trash, we had to throw it in the trash can. I just thought it was normal to always be composting!
I remember playing out in our big compost pile as a kid. I would always have fun using a pitchfork to toss the fresh food scraps in with the rich, dark compost. Of course, there were times when the smell was so bad taking out the compost bucket… but I do have very fond memories of composting as a young kid!
Above is a picture of my compost pile at my parents’ home where I grew up. That’s good compost!
Compost isn’t just for fun though – it’s one of the best forms of fertilizers that you can use for your vertical garden. If you are looking for a sure way to give your vertical garden plenty of nutrients, and cheaply, composting is definitely the way to go.
The great thing about composting is that you can create it on your own. You can start off with a store-bought package of compost, but you won’t have to keep buying it. Compost is simple to make and affordable – in fact, it can be totally free!
COMPOSTING THE CHEAP WAY
First, we’ll talk about the frugal way to create compost on your own. Before we get into that, let’s talk about what compost is...
Compost is a mixture of organic matter that has begun to decompose, transitioning into awesome fertilizer for your soil. Some people even grow their fruits, vegetables and herbs directly in compost without any soil. Compost can be made up of dirt, scraps of veggies, grass, flowers, leaves, fruits, mushrooms and other scraps that grow from the ground.
You can place this in a wooden box or container with earth worms, scraps of cut grass, leftover veggies and fruits, then cover it up and let it sit to begin decomposing. If there’s a dry spell or drought, you should water the compost pile a little to keep it damp and so that the earthworms don’t dry out. The water will also help the bacteria decompose the organic matter – they can’t do it if there’s no moisture!
Place your compost box in a warm place in your home or outside (preferably outside because of the smell, but there are indoor composting units you can buy that seal tightly and keep the smell at a minimum). You should stir or mix your compost every now and then to allow oxygen to penetrate through the bottom layers.
Once your compost is ready, you can begin using it in your garden. There are soil tests that you can use to see how much nutrients are in your compost. You should try using nutrient-rich organic matter for your compost such as mushrooms, peat moss and scraps of veggies. Of course, to keep things affordable, you can stick with composting the scraps of yard and food scraps that you commonly produce.
COMPOST PILES (ALSO CALLED COMPOST HEAPS)
Another cheap way to create compost on your own is to create heaps of scraps. This is probably the most cost effective because it doesn’t require you to buy or build any structures. You simply throw all your old food scraps into a contained pile somewhere in your yard.
A small compost pile could be about five feet wide and three feet tall. The length and size of your compost pile will vary based on how much food scraps and organic material you throw in and how quickly you use it in your garden.
Heaps should be used if you have sufficient space in your yard. Simply add scraps to the pile that you accumulate daily, or keep them in a container and dump them into a heap once you have generated enough. By creating a heap in the fall, your compost will continue to decompose throughout the winter months.
If space allows, you should try to create two heaps of compost. Once the first heap is large enough, then allow it to decompose, while you work on building the second heap. It’s not required for you to turn the compost in your heaps, it is entirely up to you. But keep in mind that the decomposition process will take longer if you don’t.
Avoid throwing food scraps onto a heap of compost that has not been turned because it will attract insects (mostly flies). Wood can also be added, but make sure that they are chopped up, so that the pile doesn’t become brush. Wood takes longer to decompose, sometimes up to a couple of years – but it will make a richer compost when you combine as many kinds of compostable organic material as you can find.
SHEET COMPOSTING
If building heaps of compost isn’t something you want to do, you can use this method instead. All you have to do is spread a thin layer of organic materials on an area of your garden – this can be materials like leaves, food and garden scraps and cut grass, all of which should be shredded or chopped before being added. Once this is done, you will then till the layer of materials using a spade, hoe or other tool.
One issue with sheet composting is that it tends to release carbon residues, which will pull nitrogen from the soil to help with decomposition. Also, if you have items in your compost that are high in nitrogen and could end up releasing nitrogen too fast; this could slow down the decomposition process.
The best time to do sheet composting is in autumn. The compost should be spread out in a two inch by four inch layer. The best tool to use for tilling is a rotary tiller, if you’re planting a vegetable garden. A garden fork or hoe would be best if you’re planting perennial or bulb flowers.
Sheet composting in action.
TRENCH COMPOSTING
Trench composting is known to be one of the easiest ways to create compost from food scraps. All you need to do is dig a hole in your yard that is about a foot deep, then simply chop up and mix the food scraps with the soil you dug up. Afterward, you will place about eight inches of additional soil on top. If the temperature is warm enough, the compost will take between one month and a year to decompose.
There are some people who randomly make trenches of compost, while others create an organized system. One system that is commonly used is to bury food and garden scraps inside of holes that were dug near the drip line of bushes and trees.
Trench composting in action.
In England, they use a trench composting system that involves a three-season rotation, known as vertical composting. The garden is divided up into rows that are three inches wide. Here is how the system works:
Year One – A hole is dug that is a foot wide and then filled with compostable materials. Once the compost is an inch high, the hole is covered with soil. A one inch section is left open as a path right next to it. Next in line is another one inch strip that is used to plant your garden items. In all there are three rows.
Year Two – Unlike with year one, the third section is the one used for the trench. The same steps are used to create the compost. Your garden is planted in the second row and the first row is now the walking space.
Year Three – The section that was used for the trench in yea
r one and the walking path in year two now becomes the planting area, which should be rich because the compost should be fully decomposed. The second space is now the trench and the third space is now for walking.
MORE ADVANCED COMPOSTING SUPPLIES
There are other different methods of composting that you can use that require certain equipment. Some equipment is cheap, while others are more on the expensive end. First on the list are holding units, which are bins that are used to throw your kitchen scraps into.
Little maintenance is needed with most models and they’re small enough to be used on of apartment and condo balconies. You should use non-wood materials for your compost in holding units. Just throw in the scraps as you get them, instead of trashing them.
Holding bins are easy to use, but require time to generate ready compost. They don’t require you to turn them at all, which is why the process is a lot slower – sometimes taking as long as six months to two years. The process will work much faster if you add earth worms to your compost bins!
Portable units can be purchased that can be turned and aerated. They can be moved about easily. These usually come in the form of plastic, wire fencing / hardware cloth, wood with wire frames or snow fencing.
You can try increasing the aeration of the compost in the holding units by poking holes into the soil and placing ventilating stacks in the center. It will look like pipes sticking out of the middle of the dirt which will allow oxygen into the soil, further decomposing the organic matter.
You will have to place the pipes down before pouring in the compost. The pipes can be made out of wire mesh or even grouped together sticks that are tied together loosely. If you decide to use PVC pipes, make sure that they are about an inch in diameter or bigger. Drill holes throughout the sides of the pipes to give more aeration to your pile.
Some people place down a plastic aeration mat or wooden pallet before dumping in the compost. Since you will be continually placing in new organics into your compost, the finished compost will usually be found near the bottom of the pile.
When needed, you can remove the compost at the bottom of the heap for your garden. Some holding bins have removable doors at the front or bottom, so that this can be easily done. If you want, you can remove the completed compost and place it in a separate bag.
Keep in mind that holding units that are heavier or permanent and have no removable doors will require more effort to create the compost. You will have to remove the finished compost to another container. It’s a good idea to have about three of these bins – one could be for finished compost, another for maturing compost and the third for fresh compost.
You have the choice of buying a holding bin that is made of plastic or wood, or building one yourself using hardware cloth, pallets, metal barrels, limber and tires. These permanent structures can also be made with bricks, rocks and concrete blocks.
If you decide to build one yourself using wood, avoid using those that are penta, creosote or copper arsenate (CCA). Don’t use these types of wood around your edible gardens either! These heavy metals can leak into your soil and go straight through your skin, giving you heavy metal toxicity or poisoning! I highly recommend you use wood that is naturally resistant to decay, such as cedar or pine that hasn’t been treated.
TURNING UNITS
Unlike typical compost bins, the turning units are made specifically for aeration. You are able to spin this to keep oxygen flowing through your compost. If you’re looking to create compost faster then turning units are the kind you’ll love. All of the aeration forms bacteria that decompose the compost quicker.
You will find two different types of turning units available – a series of bins or a rotating barrel. By turning the bins every five to ten days and within two months or less, your compost will be ready – if your compost has a good mixture of carbon, nitrogen and moisture.
By heating up the compost between 90 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, it will kill diseases, fly larvae and weed seeds. This is also a good environment for the compost to decompose. Turning units will cost a bit more than holding units. If you decide to build one on your own, it will take a little more effort upfront.
A small compost turning unit.
Those who buy the turning bins that have multiple bins and rolling balls sometimes find it hard to operate, especially if they have problems with their back or physical limitations. There are some turning bins that are created to have easier use and maintenance. Barrel turning units are smaller in size than the other types of bins, so if you don’t require too much compost, then this could be the option for you.
With the turning units, make sure to accumulate your food waste in a container so that when you place it into the bin it is filled to the prescribed level. The container you save it in should be pest-proof.
If you’ll be keeping the compost container indoors, there’s a neat trick you can use to reduce the smell – just throw a light layer of saw dust on top of the scraps.
WHAT COMPOST SHOULD LOOK LIKE
You want your compost to be rich, dark and earthy like in the picture below from my compost pile at home. It shouldn’t have any bad smell from food scraps – the bacteria should have broken all that down by the time you use it for your garden.
CHAPTER 8. HOW DO YOU START SEEDS FOR A VERTICAL GARDEN?
Starting seeds for your vertical garden is just like with starting seeds for traditional gardening methods. If you are new to gardening and starting seeds, then this chapter will teach you what you need to know!
You can either start seeds yourself or you can purchase plants that have already started to grow. Here are a couple of reasons why starting seeds is a great idea:
It’s affordable
You can do this for any type of plant you want to grow
The plants usually are of higher quality
You’ll know they’re organic
In order for your seed starting to succeed, you’re going to need to have the right environment for them to germinate. It’s a good idea to start with seeds that start to germinate quickly.
For beginners, it’s a good idea to limit the variety of plants that you are trying to create seedlings for. You don’t want to work with too many types because you could end up getting frustrated with certain types of plants that take longer or require too much effort to get started.
Just to give you an example, strawberry seeds can take up to 4 weeks to sprout whereas lettuce can sometimes sprout in a day or two.
Starting seeds on your own can be a lot of fun. If you want to bypass this step, you can just go buy starter plants at your local gardening store.
Picking Containers for Your Seeds
You’re going to need containers to start your seeds. The type of container you choose is up to you, but should be at least two to three inches deep and contain holes at the bottom for drainage. Some people take the easy route and purchase a seed starting system. If you’re going to be growing tomatoes and peppers, you can buy a seed starting system and then transport them into a pot.
Starting Seeds Without Soil
When starting seeds, sometimes you don’t even need soil at all. In fact, I recommend sprouting seeds without soil in most cases. This will enable you to avoid problems with insects and diseases. The medium should consist of a blend that is spongy, fine-textured and moist. When sprouting seeds for my aeroponic vertical garden, I use rock wool cubes. You can buy them at any hydroponics supply store or online. More on that in Chapter 11.
You can find ready-mixed blends readily sold at gardening centers in your area or online. These blends consist of vermiculite, milled sphagnum moss and perlite. Since these blends don’t have a lot of nutrients, if any, so you will need to add a liquid fertilizer to the mix. This should be done a few weeks after your seeds start to germinate. Once you transplant the seeds into the garden, you can discontinue the fertilizer.
The transplantation of your seedlings should take place after six to eight weeks. They can then be tran
splanted into a larger pot. It should contain coarser materials with the vermiculite, perlite and sphagnum, such as garden soil or compost. Usually a 1/3 of each item is used in the blend. This mixture will get your transplants prepared for a life out in your garden.
Starting Your Seeds at the Right Time
Certain plants grow faster than others, which is why you should try and time your seed starting accurately. You don’t want to start seeds that grow too fast to where you can’t transplant them out to your garden right away.
You will need to time rapid growing plants closer to planting time and those that grow a lot slower can be planted earlier, so that they are ready by the time you want to transport them outdoors.
For instance, you can begin growing leeks and celery 12 weeks before you want to transplant them outside into your garden. Then there are sunflowers and cucumbers, which only need between three and four weeks to be transplanted to your outside garden. Most seed packets give directions for seedling and how long it takes before they’re ready for transplantation. To better organize your seed starting, you can create a schedule for all of the different plants you decide to grow this season.
If you will be starting your seeds inside of a greenhouse or a room that is very warm, then you can subtract a week or so from the planting date. When starting seeds in very warm temperatures, it can cause the plant to grow faster, which will leave you with a big plant that is ready to be transplanted sooner than you expected.
Some seedlings will have to be transplanted into larger pots after they’ve been growing for about three to four weeks. If you’re growing your seeds in flats instead of individual plant cells, then this is especially so. These plants will need space to allow their roots to grow before being transplanted outdoors.
Starting and Maintenance of Seedlings
The Vertical Gardening Guidebook: How to Create Beautiful Vertical Gardens, Container Gardens and Aeroponic Vertical Tower Gardens at Home Page 4
