HINTS, TIPS + SHOPPING
For recipes that are hopefully everyday, the ingredients should be easy to get hold of, while still being interesting and inspiring.
I spent a lot of time browsing the aisles of supermarkets when writing this book, as it felt important that the recipes I wrote were accessible and achievable. As I like to cook quite spontaneously according to how I feel, I tried to reflect that with ingredients everyone can pick up easily despite busy lives. There may be a handful of recipes where you’ll need to search a little harder for things, depending on where you live. But I have tried to make sure that this has been kept to a minimum, and that worst case scenario, everything is available online.
FRUIT AND VEG
Fruit and veg It’s obvious, but of course fruit and veg tastes better when it’s in season; why have bland strawberries in winter that have travelled thousands of miles, when you can have flavourful, locally grown ones in the summer? I try to cook seasonally as much as I can – it means I get the best out of my meals and look forward to what’s in season. Visit your local market or greengrocer to see what’s in and plan your meals around that; you’ll be rewarded with tasty produce that is less expensive too.
Lemons I always buy unwaxed lemons, as I love using their zest. If you buy waxed ones, simply pop them into a colander and pour over very hot or boiling water to remove the wax. You can do this for any waxed citrus fruit.
Salad Try to stay away from the pre-packed mixed salad bags – they are over-priced and lack flavour. Invest in a salad spinner, and buy heads of lettuce where possible.
Herbs You’ll find that bunches tend to be larger and cheaper at your greengrocer’s, so shop locally when you can. Also, my mum swears that soft herbs bought from greengrocer’s and continental shops taste better and have more flavour than from the supermarkets and, dare I say it, I think she may be right.
Chillies One of my favourite tips my boss taught me is to store chillies in the freezer so I like to buy in bulk. They’re an ingredient I use in abundance. Frozen, they become incredibly versatile; you can finely grate them over salads, eggs, veg – almost anything – to add a wonderful well-distributed heat.
MEAT AND FISH
Meat I firmly believe that the better the quality of meat you buy, the better your dish will taste. Of course buy the best you can afford, but with so many butchers and supermarkets stocking higher-welfare produce now you’d be hard pushed not to find good meat at a decent price. I like to know where my meat has come from and that it has had a good life, and if this means eating less of it but better quality, then that’s fine by me. Also, if possible, try to buy locally, as opposed to imported.
Cheaper cuts of meat Keep an eye out for special offers on things like beef shin, lamb shoulder, lamb shanks, pork shoulder, chicken thighs… anything that requires slow cooking; they will freeze perfectly well for a few months, without losing flavour.
Fish Try to buy fish with an MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) logo, as you can be assured it has been responsibly sourced. If in doubt ask your fishmonger, as s/he’ll be up to date with which fish are endangered and which are in abundance. The list is ever changing! So it is always good to ask.
EGGS
All eggs listed in this book are large – this is especially important if you are following any of the baking recipes. And ideally they should be free-range organic. I store my eggs at room temperature – they’re better for baking with and are less likely to crack when boiling.
DRY INGREDIENTS
When you first start cooking it can seem overwhelming how much you need to buy, but once you have a well-stocked store cupboard up and running, it becomes a lot more manageable and you won’t have to run to the shops for everything. My store cupboard consists of a range of oils (extra virgin olive oil, groundnut oil and rapeseed oil are my heroes) and vinegars (white wine, red wine and cider). Tinned items such as tomatoes (always plum), coconut milk and lentils are a must. Dry produce such as a range of pastas, rice, lentils and beans. And much to the despair of my husband I also have a lot of condiments. I love chutneys, pickles, jams and mustards. There is a place for all of them in my cooking.
Then there are the dried herbs and spices. One tip I highly recommend is to buy these from continental and ethnic shops, as they will be a fraction of the price compared to those you buy in little glass jars in supermarkets. They come in large bags and are easily stored in your own storage jars, or just resealed at the top once opened.
I have a whole range of flours and sugars, but if you aren’t a keen baker these are less important – plain flour is all you need. I just like to be prepared, as you never know when you’ll need to whip up a batch of blondies at the last minute.
Salt This hero ingredient deserves its own paragraph, just as a note with regard to my recipes. I use flaked sea salt in all my cooking, and where a specific amount is given this is to be taken into account. If you are using a fine sea salt you will need less – the salt grains are much smaller and you will therefore get more for your measure. Halve the amount given and season to taste from there.
OVEN
All recipes have been tested in a conventional electric oven. If you are using a fan or convection oven, adjust the temperature according to the instruction guide. Better yet, place an oven thermometer inside – this will give you the most accurate reading possible.
EQUIPMENT
I take pride in my ‘kit’, having spent years accumulating pots, pans and the like; however, it is surprisingly gadget-less. You don’t need a million gadgets to be a good cook; spend your money on quality equipment and you’ll instantly be in a better place. A sharp set of knives is a must. Using a sharp knife after having a blunt one feels like putting on a pair of glasses with the right prescription – it suddenly all makes sense. Wooden or plastic chopping boards only – the glass ones make me weep a little. A large, solid mortar and pestle is a thing of beauty (ours is rarely empty), as is a good peeler – I still can’t peel potatoes quite like my yiayia, with just a little kitchen knife. A selection of saucepans and frying pans, in a range of sizes. Sometimes I am cooking for one, often for many – my collection reflects that. A good cast-iron casserole dish is fantastic – these can be used on the hob or in the oven and look gorgeous at the table. And one of my favourites – a good grater. Box graters are fine for coarse grating, but the hand-held fine graters that are available are just brilliant, they make grating citrus and hard cheese an absolute joy. Then there are measuring spoons, tongs, whisks, wooden spoons – the list goes on. Just be weary of faddy items; chances are they’ll end up shoved to the back of your cupboard gathering dust in no time.
In terms of electrical kit, I don’t have much. I have just four things. Two blenders (upright and hand-held), a food processor and a free-standing mixer. The selection of ‘must-have’ gadgets out there is overwhelming, but I guarantee you there isn’t much else you really need. A good upright blender for smoothies, sauces and purées. A stick/hand-held blender for hot soups – hot soup in an upright blender is an accident waiting to happen. A food processor for chopping and blitzing is a must – breadcrumbs, veg, even cake mixes. Also, depending on the type you go for, they often come with slicing and grating attachments, which I love. Never has making a gratin or slaw been so easy. And lastly a free-standing mixer. They aren’t cheap, but an electric hand whisk is a great and inexpensive alternative. If you really are a keen baker, though, it’s definitely an item worth investing in.
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A SUNNY START TO THE DAY
I used to be more of a breakfast avoider than a breakfast lover, but now it has become the reason I get out of bed most mornings. No matter how busy life gets, there is always time to sit at the table with a pot of coffee, juice and a proper breakfast; I love our morning ritual. Here I have included recipes for quick and nutritious weekday breakfasts, prepare-ahead ideas, and long leisurely brunches. Because breakfast really is the most important, and exciting, meal of the day.
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ECIPE LIST
SLOW-COOKED PINHEAD PORRIDGE
QUICK FLAPJACK CHERRY GRANOLA
GRIDDLED FRUIT SALAD WITH HONEY GINGER DRESSING
CARAMELISED APPLE, RICOTTA AND HAZELNUT PANCAKES
WHOLEGRAIN NASI GORENG WITH SPINACH
BOMBAY OMELETTE
MENEMEN WITH LEMON-ROASTED FETA AND OLIVES
KIPPER HASH WITH WATERCRESS YOGHURT AND GRIDDLED CUCUMBER
GIN-CURED SALMON WITH CREAMY SCRAMBLED EGGS
CHORIZO, TOMATO AND CHICKPEAS ON TOAST
REFRIED LENTILS WITH CRISPY SAUSAGE, PEPPER SALSA AND AVOCADO
ROAST SWEET POTATO, PANCETTA AND MAPLE LOAF
COURGETTE, COCONUT AND CARDAMOM LOAF WITH HONEY BUTTER
BREAKFAST ON THE RUN
SLOW-COOKED PINHEAD PORRIDGE
This is porridge but on another level. It is insanely creamy, to the point where you’ll think there has to be butter or cream in it, but there is nothing naughty in this addictive breakfast bowl. What you do need is time – you can’t rush it, this is literally meant to be stirred slowly. However, a great tip is to make a large batch of this on a Sunday, when most of us have more time (I do not have 45 minutes to spare on a weekday morning, you’re lucky if I brush my hair), as it keeps really well. Just cool it down, store it in the fridge and reheat it with a splash of milk and water – works a treat. You can obviously serve it how you like – straight up with a little brown sugar is heavenly – but here is the way I like to eat mine.
SERVES 4
75g rolled oats
50g pinhead oatmeal
700ml milk (please use full-fat or semi-skimmed, skimmed is too watery)
½ teaspoon sea salt
2 bananas
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
3–4 tablespoons honey or light soft brown sugar
Place the oats and oatmeal in a large saucepan with the milk, salt and 300ml of water. Pop on to a medium heat and slowly bring to the boil. As soon as it starts to boil, turn the heat down to a simmer and leave the porridge to gently bubble away for around 35-40 minutes, stirring often so it doesn’t stick, and becomes thick and creamy. If it feels like it is thickening up too much, add a splash more water or milk.
Peel and slice the bananas. Finish the porridge by stirring in the cinnamon and poppy seeds, and ladle into bowls. If I’m using honey I like to drizzle it into the bowl before ladling in the porridge; if I’m using sugar I sprinkle it over the porridge and leave it to melt into a pool of caramel, swirl it in, then scatter over the sliced bananas.
Slow-Cooked Pinhead Porridge
QUICK FLAPJACK CHERRY GRANOLA
As with many great things in life, this recipe was created by accident, and stemmed from curiosity and a little bit of laziness. My husband, Pete, has a nut allergy, which means that most shop-bought granolas and mueslis are out of the question, so I’ll often make him a batch with just seeds and dried fruit. However, after much promising but not much making, one morning we found ourselves with an abundance of fresh fruit and some delicious yoghurt but no granola (fruit and yoghurt alone is just not enough in this house) – so I got playing and this pan-fried quick granola was created. And you know what? It’s delicious: chewy like a flapjack and a little crunchy like a granola, it’s easy to make and a great alternative to the oven-made stuff.
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon olive oil (or any flavourless oil)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
125g rolled porridge oats
50g dried cherries or cranberries
50g dried figs (or any other dried fruit you like – dates and apricots work well)
2 tablespoons mixed seeds (pumpkin, sesame, poppy, sunflower)
a pinch of sea salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 tablespoons runny honey
a punnet of your favourite mixed berries, to serve
homemade yoghurt, to serve (see here)
Drizzle the oil and vanilla extract into a medium-size non-stick pan with a splash of water and place it on a medium heat. Scatter in the oats and stir it all together. Pop on the lid and leave the oats to cook for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, roughly chop the cherries and chop the figs (or whichever fruit you are using) into similar-size pieces.
When the oats have had a chance to soften, remove the lid and add the seeds to the pan. Turn the heat up a little and toast the oats and seeds for a couple of minutes. Sprinkle in the salt and add the chopped dried fruit and cinnamon. Toss everything together and drizzle over the honey. Cook for 2-3 minutes until you have a golden chewy granola that’s a little crisp around the edges.
Leave in the pan for a few minutes to cool, then spoon over fresh fruit and yoghurt or leave to cool completely, and store in a sealed jar until needed.
Quick Flapjack Cherry Granola
GRIDDLED FRUIT SALAD WITH HONEY GINGER DRESSING
I love serving fruit this way. It’s great on its own, with yoghurt, granola or even as a pud (it looks wonderful when served on a platter with a bowl of whipped cream and meringues). Also, you can treat the recipe as a guide and use whatever fruits you have to hand – you can griddle any firmer fruits successfully.
SERVES 2 (multiply as needed)
1½ teaspoons sesame seeds
a 1cm piece of ginger
2 tablespoons honey
1 lime
1 nectarine or peach
1 apricot
1 pear
¼ of a pineapple
a handful of blueberries
Place a griddle pan on a high heat, and leave to get hot while you prepare the dressing. Scatter the sesame seeds into a small saucepan or frying pan and toast until lightly golden over a low heat, then remove from the pan and leave to one side.
Peel the ginger. Squeeze the honey into the frying pan, finely grate in the ginger and the lime zest, and squeeze in the lime juice. Place on a medium-low heat, and gently stir it all together. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from the hob and leave to one side.
Prepare your fruit for griddling. Halve the nectarine or peach, remove the stone and cut each piece in half again. Halve the apricot and remove the stone. Trim the pear and cut in half, then in half again, so you have 4 wedges. Peel the pineapple, cut away the core and chop into rough pieces, around 2–3cm in size.
Place all the cut fruit on the hot griddle (you will probably have to do this in two batches), and turn them so they get charred on all sides. Transfer to a bowl or platter and scatter over the blueberries. Drizzle over the honey ginger dressing, gently toss through, and finish by scattering over the toasted sesame seeds. Serve straight away.
Griddled Fruit Salad with Honey Ginger Dressing
CARAMELISED APPLE, RICOTTA AND HAZELNUT PANCAKES
Pancakes are a big weekend hit in our house, with toppings and mixes constantly being tweaked depending on what’s in season. Berries in the summer, citrus in the winter, savoury any time. But one of my favourites is this tarte Tatin-style pancake, because it (kind of) makes it acceptable to eat one of my favourite puddings for breakfast. And it isn’t as naughty as it tastes.
SERVES 4
50g toasted hazelnuts
2 nice eating apples (I like Cox’s or Braeburn, nothing with a waxy skin)
1 orange
250g ricotta
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
175ml milk
125g wholemeal flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
a pinch of salt
groundnut oil
4 tablespoons maple syrup
Greek yoghurt, to serve
Place the nuts in a food processor and blitz to a slightly coarse consistency. Slice each apple into 6 thin slices, then place in a bowl and finely grate over the orange zest. Spoon the ricotta into a sieve and press out any excess liquid, then transfer it to a large mixing bowl. Separate the eggs, placing the whites into a clean mixing bowl a
nd the yolks in with the ricotta. Beat the vanilla and milk in with the ricotta. Then add the flour, baking powder, salt and most of the chopped hazelnuts. Mix until just combined.
Whisk the egg whites with an electric whisk (or elbow grease) until you have stiff peaks. Fold one spoonful into the ricotta to loosen, then fold through the rest of the egg whites, keeping the mixture as light as possible.
Using a pastry brush or some kitchen paper, rub a large non-stick frying pan with an thin, even layer of groundnut oil. Pop on to a medium heat and lay out 6 of the apple slices. Halve the orange and squeeze over the juice from one half. Lightly cook the apples for 2-3 minutes then flip them all over. Top each slice with a large spoonful of the ricotta batter, using half of the batter between 6 slices. Reduce the heat a little and gently cook the pancakes for 6-8 minutes, giving the batter enough time to set. Carefully flip the pancakes over and cook for a further 4-5 minutes, until cooked through.
Finish by drizzling with 2 tablespoons of maple syrup, flipping them back over for a minute so the apples become caramelised. Serve straight away, with a dollop of yoghurt, a sprinkle of the reserved chopped hazlenuts and extra maple syrup on the side. Wipe the pan clean then repeat with the remaining apple slices and batter.
Caramelised Apple, Ricotta and Hazelnut Pancakes
WHOLEGRAIN NASI GORENG WITH SPINACH
On honeymoon in Indonesia this was our breakfast of choice. Nasi goreng is a cracking start to the day, it’s a good source of protein, and the ingredients I have used here mean it releases energy slowly. (Think kedgeree and you’re on the right page.) Tastes even better after a slightly late night, too… Heck, it’s great at any time.
Stirring Slowly Page 2
