When the brisket is ready, remove the meat from the pot and leave on a board to rest for 15 minutes. Place the pan on the hob and boil the adobo sauce over a high heat, until reduced and thickened – you want a dense, dark gravy to dress the brisket. Transfer the meat back to the casserole dish or to a serving dish, untie the string, and pour over the thickened adobo sauce. Shred the meat with two forks and serve alongside the pineapple salsa. Perfect with steamed rice and griddled tortillas.
Adobo Brisket with Griddled Pineapple Salsa
SPICED LAMB WITH DATES AND HERB-DRESSED FARRO
I made this recipe recently for my yiayia, as she hadn’t been very well, and I wanted to make sure she was getting some rest while keeping her strength up. It feels like the perfect comforting get-well dish, full of warming spices, without being spicy.
SERVES 6
2 red onions
4 garlic cloves
2 sticks of celery
olive oil
800g lamb neck fillet
4 medjool dates
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ tablespoon ras el hanout
1 orange
1 × 400g tin of plum tomatoes
350ml chicken stock
75g red lentils
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE FARRO
1 onion
2 garlic cloves
a large knob of butter
1 cinnamon stick
300g farro
1 litre boiling water
½ a bunch of coriander
½ a bunch of mint
Greek yoghurt, to serve
Preheat your oven to 170°C/gas 3. Peel and finely slice the onions and garlic and finely slice the celery. Place a large casserole-style pan or ovenproof saucepan on a medium-low heat and pour in a glug of olive oil. Add the sliced veg and sauté for around 10 minutes, until everything is soft and sticky, but not coloured.
While the veg are cooking, cut the lamb into 2½cm chunks. Remove the stones from the dates, then chop them as finely as you can. When the veg are ready, add the ground coriander, ground cumin and ras el hanout to the pan and fry for about a minute, then add the meat. Turn the heat up a little and fry the meat for around 5–10 minutes, until it is browned all over. Add the chopped dates to the pan, finely grate in the zest of half of the orange, and squeeze in all the juice. Add the tinned tomatoes and chicken stock and gently bring everything to the boil. Once it starts to bubble, remove from the heat and pop a lid on the pot. Place it in the oven for an hour, so that the meat is on its way to being deliciously tender, then take it out and stir in the red lentils. Cover with the lid, put back into the oven and cook for a further hour, until the meat is falling apart and the stew is deliciously thick. Season to taste.
Once the lentils have been stirred through the stew, start making the farro. Peel and finely chop the onion and garlic. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat and add the chopped veg. Sauté for 12–15 minutes, until soft and sticky, then add the cinnamon and farro. Stir for a minute, then add the litre of boiling water and season well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer for 15 minutes, until cooked perfectly.
Pick the coriander and mint leaves, discarding the stalks, and finely chop. Stir through the farro just before serving. Serve alongside the slow-cooked lamb with a pile of flatbreads and some thick tangy Greek yoghurt.
Spiced Lamb with Dates and Herb-Dressed Farro
CINNAMON-BRAISED LAMB SHANKS
Slow-cooked and tender, these shanks are rich, warming and fragrant. They are perfect for entertaining, as they need little attention, or just if you fancy a change to your Sunday roast. Also cinnamon is believed to be full of health benefits, including cholesterol-reducing and anti-inflammatory properties.
SERVES 4
4 garlic cloves
a 4cm piece of ginger
100g golden raisins
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
2 red chillies
2 teaspoons ground coriander
200ml natural yoghurt
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 lamb shanks
8 shallots
groundnut or vegetable oil
1 cinnamon stick
2 star anise
1 fresh bay leaf
500ml chicken stock
Peel and roughly chop the garlic and ginger and blitz in a food processor with the raisins, ground cinnamon, chillies and ground coriander. Add the yoghurt, and a good pinch of salt and pepper, and pulse until just mixed. Make incisions in the lamb shanks and place in a bowl. Rub the marinade into the meat, then cover and marinate for a few hours, or even for a day if possible.
When you are ready to cook the meat, peel and finely slice the shallots. Pour a drizzle of groundnut or vegetable oil into a deep, heavy-based casserole – one large enough to hold all the shanks – and fry the cinnamon stick, star anise and bay leaf for a minute. Add the shallots, then turn the heat right down and sauté for 10 minutes, until soft and sticky. Spoon the mixture into a bowl and leave to one side.
Drizzle a little more oil into the casserole and turn up the heat. Brown the lamb shanks in batches, reserving any marinade left in the bowl. When the meat is brown on all sides, return it all to the pan with the softened shallots and any reserved marinade. Pour in the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid, then cook over a low heat for 3 hours, turning the shanks regularly and adding more stock if it gets too dry. The lamb should be tender and falling off the bone. Remove the shanks from the pan and cover with foil to keep warm. Turn up the heat and let the sauce bubble away for around 10 minutes, until thickened and rich.
Return the lamb shanks to the pot and serve. Perfect with mashed potato or creamed cauliflower and greens, or even steaming basmati rice.
Cinnamon-Braised Lamb Shanks
VENISON, WILD MUSHROOM AND CELERIAC TOPPED PIE
I felt pretty nervous presenting this beast of a pie to my right-hand woman, Isla, as she is a true Scotswoman, and married to Angus, a true Scotsman. However, their feedback was amazing, Angus devoured the lot, and that’s good enough for me.
SERVES 8
1kg venison shoulder or neck fillet
1 tablespoon juniper berries
2 tablespoons plain flour
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ a bunch of rosemary
500g wild mushrooms
2 garlic cloves
2 onions
2 sticks of celery
olive oil
2 fresh bay leaves
100ml sloe gin (if you don’t have it you can use a good ale)
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
400ml beef stock
2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
1 large celeriac (around 650g)
800g Maris Piper potatoes
50g butter
a splash of milk
Cut the venison into 3–4 cm pieces. Crush the juniper berries in a mortar and pestle. Spoon into a bowl with the meat, sprinkle with the flour and a good pinch of salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Finely chop the rosemary leaves. Wipe the mushrooms clean and tear into bite-size pieces. Peel and finely slice the garlic and onions. Trim and slice the celery. Pour a good drizzle of oil into a large pan over a medium heat. Brown the meat, in batches if necessary, then set to one side. Put the pan back on a medium heat, add the garlic and the mushrooms and fry for a few minutes until they begin to soften, then add the onion, celery and rosemary and reduce the heat to low. Sauté for about 10 minutes, until softened, then return the meat to the pan.
Add the bay leaves and the sloe gin or ale, then bring to the boil and cook for a couple of minutes until reduced slightly. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce, and add enough beef stock to cover. Return to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook gently for 2½–3 hours, or until the meat is incredibly tender a
nd shreds easily, and the gravy is rich and thick. Finish by stirring in the redcurrant jelly, then season to taste.
When your meat is almost ready, preheat the oven to 180°C/gas 4. Peel the celeriac and potatoes and cut into even-size chunks. Place the potatoes in a large pan of salted water, bring to the boil, and cook for around 10–15 minutes, until cooked through. Drain and steam dry. At the same time do the same with the celeriac, but cook it for around 8–10 minutes. When all the veg are ready, mash with the butter and a splash of milk, then season to taste.
Ladle the venison into a large ovenproof dish, then carefully spoon on the creamy celeriac. Use a fork to encourage the mash to the edges of the dish and give it a little texture. Drizzle with a little olive oil, then pop the dish into the oven and bake for around 40 minutes, until golden and bubbling. Serve straight to the table with a mound of lemon-dressed greens.
Venison, Wild Mushroom and Celeriac Topped Pie
ROASTED GUINEA FOWL AND PUMPKIN PASTILLA
No trip to Morocco is complete without some form of pastilla. Traditionally filled with pigeon or even chicken, this delicious savoury and slightly sweet pie is a thing of beauty. The icing sugar finish may feel strange but don’t skip it – it makes the dish.
SERVES 4–6
1 × 1–1.2kg guinea fowl
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground coriander
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
700g pumpkin or squash
3 red onions
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ a bunch of coriander
½ a bunch of flat-leaf parsley
40g flaked almonds
60g butter
270g filo pastry
2 tablespoons icing sugar
250g Greek yoghurt
2 tablespoons harissa
Preheat your oven to 180°C/gas 4. Place the guinea fowl in a large roasting tray and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of ground cinnamon, the ground coriander, a good pinch of salt and pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil, and rub into the meat. Place in the oven and roast for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile peel the pumpkin or squash and chop into 2½–3cm pieces. Peel and trim the red onions and cut into 1cm wedges. When the guinea fowl has had 20 minutes in the oven, remove the tray and scatter the prepared veg around the bird. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of ground cinnamon and the allspice. Drizzle the veg with olive oil, toss it all together and return the tray to the oven for a further 45–50 minutes, until the meat is cooked through and the veg are soft and a little caramelised. Remove from the oven, but don’t turn the oven off.
Leave the tray and meat to cool for 15 minutes, then shred the meat off the carcass and straight into the tray. Mash the pumpkin lightly with a potato masher, keeping some of it a little chunky but using the rest to bring together the meat and onions. Finely chop the coriander and parsley, stalks and all, and stir into the filling with two-thirds of the almonds.
Melt the butter in a small pan and use a pastry brush to brush the inside of an ovenproof frying pan or pie dish, around 26cm in diameter. Layer the filo into the pan, brushing with butter as you go and leaving plenty hanging over the sides so you have enough to cover the top. Fill the filo with the guinea fowl mixture, then gather the excess pastry over the top, covering the pie completely. Brush with a little more melted butter and sprinkle with the remaining almonds.
Place the pan in the bottom of the oven and bake for 35–40 minutes, until golden and crisp. Remove from the oven, and leave the pie in the pan for 5 minutes. Dust with the remaining cinnamon and icing sugar. Serve sliced into wedges, with the harissa rippled through the yoghurt on the side.
Roasted Guinea Fowl and Pumpkin Pastilla
5
VERSATILE VEG
This chapter is a celebration of beautiful veg. These recipes make wonderful sides, but equally many of them are fantastic on their own, or as part of a group for a lighter meal. There isn’t anything much better than a table filled with platters of beautifully and respectfully prepared vegetables and leaves.
RECIPE LIST
GRIDDLED APRICOT, LETTUCE AND FETA
GARDEN SALAD WITH BUTTERMILK DRESSING AND CARAMELISED SEEDS
A VERY SPRINGTIME SALAD
GRIDDLED RADICCHIO WITH HAZELNUT AND ROSEMARY
CHARRED BRASSICAS WITH TAHINI YOGHURT AND SUMAC
KHICHDI
INDULGENT POLENTA WITH ROASTED GARLIC BUTTER
WHOLE ROASTED MISO AUBERGINE
TOMATO, BREAD AND ROASTED RICOTTA SALAD
HONEYMOON CORN ON THE COB
APPLE, PEAR AND TARRAGON SLAW
STICKY HARISSA CARROTS AND BEETS WITH DATES
KILLER DRESSED ROAST POTATOES
GREEN CHILLI GREENS WITH CASHEWS
GRIDDLED APRICOT, LETTUCE AND FETA
This is such a pretty little dish – the salty feta and sweet apricots work in perfect harmony. A simple summertime salad at its best.
SERVES 4
3 little gem lettuces
6 apricots, or 4 apricots and 2 peaches
1 tablespoon runny honey
½ a bunch of mint
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
125g feta
a good pinch of dried oregano
a punnet of micro cress (optional)
Preheat a griddle pan on a high heat. Trim the little gems, discard the outer leaves and cut into halves and then into quarters. Griddle the wedges, turning as you go so they are charred on all sides. When they’re ready, take them off the griddle and put them on to a platter.
Cut the fruit in half and any large pieces in quarters, and remove the stones, then put them on the griddle, cut side down. You want to lightly caramelise the fruit, but be careful not to cook them for too long or they’ll fall apart. As soon as they are ready, drizzle with a little honey and leave to one side while you make the dressing.
Pick the mint leaves and roughly chop. Put them into a bowl and whisk with the white wine vinegar, extra virgin olive oil and a good pinch of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Dot the griddled fruit around the little gem wedges on the platter. Drizzle with the mint dressing, and crumble over the feta. Finish with a scattering of dried oregano, snip over the micro cress if using, and serve straight away.
Griddled Apricot, Lettuce and Feta
GARDEN SALAD WITH BUTTERMILK DRESSING AND CARAMELISED SEEDS
A simple green salad, with a creamy yet light mustardy dressing. The sweet and salty seeds are an absolute must.
SERVES 6
50g pumpkin seeds
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
50g sunflower seeds
100g caster sugar
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 soft round lettuces
2 little gem lettuces
2 red chicory
1 teaspoon English mustard
zest and juice of 1 lemon
rapeseed oil
150ml buttermilk
a bunch of chives, finely chopped (flowers too, if you can get them)
Line a tray with greaseproof paper. Place a non-stick frying pan on a medium heat and toast all the seeds until lightly golden. Sprinkle in the sugar and a generous pinch of salt and gently caramelise until all the sugar has dissolved. Don’t stir or it will form large crystals. Gently swirl the pan until you have a gorgeous golden caramel, then pour the mixture on to the prepared tray. Leave to one side to cool.
Cut off the lettuce leaves, wash and spin dry. Alternatively cut the lettuces and endives into large wedges, through the stem so that the wedges stay in one piece. Rinse, if needed, and dry with kitchen paper. Arrange them over a serving platter and leave to one side.
To make the dressing, spoon the mustard into a jam jar, season well and finely grate in the lemon zest. Squeeze in the lemon juice and add a couple of drizzles of rapeseed oil.
Shake well until thoroughly mixed, then pour in the buttermilk and shake again.
In a mortar and pestle crush the caramelised seeds so you have a mixture of fine and chunky pieces. Finely chop the chives. Drizzle the buttermilk dressing over the salad, and scatter over the chives and the crushed seeds. Finish with any chive flowers, if you have them.
Garden Salad with Buttermilk Dressing and Caramelised Seeds
A VERY SPRINGTIME SALAD
This recipe does exactly what it says on the tin: delicious springtime ingredients, with little pops of creamy spiced labneh. Heaven.
SERVES 4, as a side or light lunch
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon nigella seeds
2 teaspoons sesame seeds
1 lemon
1 teaspoon English mustard
extra virgin olive oil (rapeseed or avocado oil work well too)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 courgettes
4 spring onions
75g rocket
50g watercress
a handful of freshly podded peas
a handful of freshly podded broad beans, slipped out of their skins (or just use more peas if you can’t find them)
a bunch of mixed soft herbs, such as parsley, mint, chervil, tarragon
150g labneh (see here, or for a quicker alternative you can use a soft goat’s cheese)
Place a frying pan on a medium heat and scatter in the coriander, nigella and sesame seeds. Toast for a few minutes, until they’re smelling great, then remove from the heat. Leave to cool, then coarsely grind in a mortar and pestle and leave to one side.
Stirring Slowly Page 11
