by Janine Marsh
Also by Janine Marsh
My Good Life in France
First published in Great Britain in 2020
by Michael O’Mara Books Limited
9 Lion Yard
Tremadoc Road
London SW4 7NQ
Copyright © Janine Marsh 2020
All rights reserved. You may not copy, store, distribute, transmit, reproduce or otherwise make available this publication (or any part of it) in any form, or by any means (electronic, digital, optical, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the publisher. Any person who does any unauthorized act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN: 978-1-78929-047-9 in paperback print format
ISBN: 978-1-78929-048-6 in ebook format
www.mombooks.com
Cover illustration by Emma Block
To Mark, who made me take a leap of faith.
‘We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.’
Contents
Prologue
JANUARY: Oh, Là Là Land
FEBRUARY: Nouveau city slickers
MARCH: Party like it’s spring
APRIL: Never quit your dream
MAY: The house where the pigs live
JUNE: The first rule of Wood Club is you don’t talk about Wood Club
JULY: All hail – it’s a disaster
AUGUST: Half full, or half empty?
SEPTEMBER: Fifty-two ducks and one Ducasse
OCTOBER: To bise or not to bise …
NOVEMBER: Happiness is homemade
DECEMBER: Winter isn’t a season, it’s a feeling and a feast
Prologue
IT ALL BEGAN on a freezing February day in 2004. My husband Mark and I had embarked on a day trip to Calais to buy wine with my dad, Frank, who had taken to drinking way too much whisky in order to drown his sorrows after my mum died a couple of years earlier. He was utterly lost without the love of his life and had taken to counting every day he had been without her. Whenever we spoke, he would say, ‘You know, it’s been four hundred days since your mother died,’ and so on. It was so clear to me how much he thought of her and missed her every day, and I worried about him constantly. I thought that wine would be an improvement for him over the hard stuff, and that a trip with us might cheer him up a bit. And where better to pick up some wine than in France?
That morning, we picked up Dad from his home, not too far from ours in south-east London, and drove down to Dover, where we boarded a ferry to France under a wretched, ominously grey sky. The miserable weather certainly didn’t improve when we reached Calais, with a gale coming in from the English Channel and buffeting the coast. After we had bought our wine, we decided to head inland from the coast to find somewhere cosy for lunch. We stopped off in the little town of Hesdin in the Seven Valleys, which, judging by the map, looked like it would be big enough to offer a grand choice of restaurants. Cobbled streets glistened under a steady stream of sleet as, wrapped up against the chilly wind, we searched for a place to eat. Alas we were too late. We didn’t know it then, but restaurants in France are generally not an all-day affair and arriving at 1.30 p.m. will likely result in a ‘non’ when you want a table.
‘Blimey,’ said Dad, ‘you wouldn’t want to live here, would you?’
En route back to the car, soggy and fed up, we passed many cafés and bistros that looked teasingly tempting, with their warm glowing lights and oh-so-French menus. As we stopped to look at houses for sale in an estate agent’s window, the agent inside must have spotted our miserable, frozen faces and so he invited us in for coffee. It was too much of an enticement for my coffee-loving dad, and we trotted in behind him.
We were warmed by his generosity and the cosy interior of the shop, so the agent seized his chance: ‘Ow much moanee are you looking to spend?’ he asked.
I choked on the strong French coffee and assured him we had no money and we weren’t looking for a house in France. Refusing to accept that we weren’t interested in buying, the agent used every ounce of charm he could muster, and after realizing we were too poor to buy a house that didn’t need completely doing up, he pulled out his three cheapest properties. He worked so hard to persuade us that I gave in and, thanking him for the coffee, took the details and bade him au revoir, certain we would never see him again.
Back in the car, we considered going straight home. ‘Or … we could just take a look at these houses. They’re all under a hundred thousand euros,’ I said. Buying a house in France wasn’t something I’d considered. But, a whole house for less than £60,000 – you couldn’t get a garage in London for that. I was intrigued. And the agent was a good salesman, piquing my interest with his descriptions of vaulted cellars, wood-panelled lounges and ‘bedrooms suitable for a queen’.
My suggestion was met with silence in the car. I wasn’t sensing a great deal of enthusiasm from either of them. ‘They’re all in towns close to Hesdin. There might be a café open in one of them, and it’s on the way back to Calais anyway, via the scenic route,’ I continued.
Tempted by the prospect of a local café that might serve hot food, the unhappy men caved in to my suggestion. We drove for thirty minutes and arrived in a town that had a single road and a town hall, but no café. The house for sale was in a semi-derelict state.
In the next town, there were just a few houses on a single road. On peering through the windows of the apparently ‘fit for royalty’ house we could see that the walls, ceilings and even the doors were covered in hideous 1970s linoleum. It looked like a serial killer’s den.
The last house was in a tiny village with no shops, no bars and no sign of life. I was starting to think that driving here to view a house we didn’t want and couldn’t afford, even though it cost less than a Hermès handbag, was probably a bit mad. By now, both Dad and Mark were seriously fed up.
I got out of the car to peer through a broken gate set into an unattractive concrete wall. Behind the wall was a very long and low detached farmhouse-style building with drab grey walls and a concrete-block extension. Paint was peeling from the windows and door, and the rain, pelting down on the moss-covered roof, spilled over gutters and gushed from a broken drainpipe. The rain-sodden front garden was filled with piles of broken bricks and rubble. The house looked abandoned.
‘Let’s just go,’ said Dad. But, just as I turned to get into the car, the rain stopped and a beam of sunlight broke through the dark clouds. A man came out of the house and asked in English if he could help us. The church bells in the village started to ring and I heard ducks quacking loudly close by. I didn’t know it then, but it was the sound of fate.
The Englishman told us that the house was his daughter’s and he was there to check it wasn’t leaking too much. He invited us in for a cup of tea and to look around what was essentially a shell of a house. The wind howled through holes in the bare concrete walls and roof, and the floors had a strange tackiness to them. The house was dank, cold and smelled stale. The ‘bathroom’ was nothing more than a filthy shower cubicle on the hall landing, and the loo was in a corner of the kitchen. ‘This house is not fit to live in,’ Dad declared as he pulled at a bit of rotting wood on the kitchen doorframe.
But, as I peered out of the kitchen window that looked over a huge garden with wild birds flitting about, I saw fields beyond that stretched out as far as the eye could see and a church spire in the distance. I felt a pull on my heartstrings. I had a vision of myself growing vegetables and fruit. I could see beyond the ugly rooms to admire the beautiful old oak beams that held up the cei
lings and the ancient flintstone wall that ran across one of the downstairs rooms.
I realized that I’d been hit by what the French call a coup de foudre – a lightning bolt, or love at first sight. I could feel my heart beating wildly. I just knew that this neglected old dump had huge potential and was waiting for the right family to come along and bring it back to life. I also knew, then and there, that the family would be me and Mark. I went home in a daze.
Mark was unsure about taking on such a huge project, and we discussed for hours what it would mean to buy the house and whether we could really afford it. As we talked more about the building’s potential and what we could do to restore it, Mark’s builder instincts kicked in. A week later we put in an offer and it was accepted.
We sold Mark’s beloved Jaguar to pay the deposit, and adjusted to a reality of no holidays or treats while we poured everything into a fund for the necessary building work and repairs. Four months after we first set eyes on it, the French farmhouse was ours. And we have been renovating ever since.
Quite why I fell head over heels for a house with metal doors that flapped in the wind and rattling windows sometimes mystifies me. I’m not sure how I managed to block out the state of the building and focus on the fact that it had an acre of garden (admittedly unkempt and complete with a sheep). I’d watched those TV shows, the ones where they take a rundown old house and turn it into a beautiful and desirable home, but that sort of thing always felt like a distant dream and something I’d never do. But when I walked into the farmhouse that day, it just felt like I had been struck by fate, although sometimes, when we’re up to our elbows cleaning out the septic tank or mending our roof for the umpteenth time, it feels more like we might have been struck by something altogether less pleasant.
For almost ten years we spent most of our weekends and all of our holidays turning our hovel into a home. We explored the local area, met the neighbours and fell under the spell of a tranquil way of life until we were so in love with the village, the amazing street markets, the delicious French cakes and the friendly locals, that we could hardly bear to leave at the end of our visits.
We felt more and more torn between our lives in London and our feelings about this wonderful corner of France. I was about to be appointed as a director at the bank where I worked – it had taken eighteen years of hard slog to get there and I knew I deserved it. I loved my job and I felt far too young to retire. My dad said I was an idiot to even consider giving it all up. But I knew Mark was sick of never seeing me because of the long hours I worked during the week and sometimes at weekends, too.
When his beloved younger sister passed away from cancer, the loss hit him hard. She loved spending time with us in France and often talked about wanting to buy a house in the village. For Mark, being able to spend time with the people you love became more important than anything and he knew that we could make a different life in France together. In all honesty, it was a tough decision. I am not comfortable with risk. But I do believe in fate and love. There were obstacles along the way – at work there was a big project to which I was committed, and then Dad got diagnosed with cancer. I was devastated and I knew I couldn’t abandon him when he needed me most. I went back and forth between France and the UK for two years, going to appointments, sitting with him through treatments, or just being there to make a cup of tea and listen when he wanted to talk. His death was a huge blow and left me reeling for a long time afterwards. But the words he’d said to me a thousand times echoed in my head: ‘Life is for living. Don’t waste one single precious moment.’ And, so, one warm September day, almost ten years after we had been so sure we would never want to buy a house in France, we piled our belongings into a trailer and drove them to a little rural French village to begin a new life.
This is the tale of one year in France, a romp through the four seasons in the lives of two frequently baffled but determined expat Brits.
Janine Marsh
JANUARY
Oh, Là Là Land
ON THE FIRST day of the new year a heavy, freezing fog descended on the village and decided it was going to stay. The air hung, silent and cold, blanketing the houses and making the smoke from the chimneys hover over the rooftops in the absence of a breeze. Nothing much moved, except for a few hardy farmers taking food to cows hiding in warm barns and some hungry chaffinches looking for berries in the hedgerows. The houses had their shutters closed tight against the chill. Except for a few short hours when they were swung open to let in the day, they would remain like this throughout January, preserving the warmth from the wood fires and creating a semi-twilight world for those inside. It has been this way for centuries in the Seven Valleys. That was fine by me. I wasn’t going anywhere after a New Year’s Eve dinner the night before at the home of our neighbours Guillaume and Constance. We had feasted like kings and drunk like lords, and moving much today was out of the question.
At 8 p.m. the night before, a customary thirty minutes later than the time we were asked to arrive, Mark and I had set off from our house halfway up a hill in the middle of the lush Seven Valleys, rural northern France. It’s been almost fifteen years since we – the only Brits in the village – bought our ramshackle old farmhouse, so we knew perfectly well that arriving later than asked is an unspoken law. Nobody seems to have a clue why this is so, and I have had many discussions with my French friends about how much easier it would be if they could just tell us what time they really want people to arrive. ‘But this is how we’ve always done it,’ they say. ‘Our parents did it this way and their parents before them.’ And, as everyone knows, in France, if it has always been that way, then it will stay that way whether it makes sense or not.
A five-minute walk down a country lane and alongside fields encircled by frost-kissed hedges brought us to our friends’ home, a fortified, stone-built farmhouse typical of the area. We pushed open the gate, which squealed loudly in protest, making dogs howl and an owl hoot somewhere above our heads. Other than that, it was silent and pitch-black. We made our way to the front door via a slippery cobbled path and pulled a long chain, which set off a ringing that we could hear faintly through the heavy wooden door.
Ushered into a wood-fire-warmed dining room, we were somehow still the first to arrive, but at least we weren’t too early. There had been occasions in the past when, not knowing the drill, we had turned up at the right time to find the hosts not even dressed. Thankfully the rest of the guests, all of whom we knew, arrived just minutes after. Jean-Claude and his wife Bernadette are (whisper it) our favourites. They welcomed us to the village from day one and Jean-Claude, especially, became our mentor and, at times, saviour. He frequently visits us, offering advice and explaining how things work around here. It was Jean-Claude who came to the rescue when we ran out of firewood in our first winter, apparently the coldest in years, and I was considering divorcing Mark due to the fact that it was his fault. I felt as if I was slowly freezing to oblivion because he had persuaded me that coming to France to live permanently was a good idea. Pushing back the flat cap that might just be glued to his head as I’ve never seen him not wearing it, Jean-Claude had pursed his lips while thinking about who might have wood for sale in winter and then ordered it for us. He told us where the best boulangeries were, the best time to plant potatoes, how to cut hedges properly and how to make crow pâté, which to tell the truth is not something I wanted to learn and can’t honestly recommend.
Constance and Guillaume, who during the week live and work in the city of Lille, the capital of the region, inherited their village house. They love to cook and to teach me about French cuisine. We became good friends after we met at a party where everyone was required to make and bring a tart to be judged. That is considered fun in these parts, unless you are called ‘flop chef, not top chef’, as I am. Constance had baked a strawberry tart that everyone agreed was the best they had ever tasted. Delicate, light golden pastry, creamy and sweet crème pâtissière topped with strawberries macerated in Grand Marnier an
d dusted with icing sugar – it was heaven on a plate. She won first prize. I had made a rather sad cheese tart that no one had wanted to eat, and came last, which was not in the least bit surprising. Constance offered to teach me how to cook, and despite several people in the village over the years already trying and failing, I can now create a passable tart thanks to her gentle patience and encouragement.
Madame Bernadette (always called Madame Bernadette so as not to be confused with Bernadette, wife of Jean-Claude), a white-haired widow who lives alone in the corner house at the bottom of our hill, was sitting at the table. Next to her was old Monsieur Martel, who also lives alone. Both in their seventies, they have lived in the village and known each other all their lives, and bicker as if they were married. Jean-Claude, who is a terrible gossip, says that there has never been a romance between them and there is hardly likely to be as Monsieur Martel is a little rustic in his ways, whereas Madame Bernadette loves art and classical music. He keeps pigs, goats and ornamental chickens, and she has reproduction Monet paintings all over the house. According to Jean-Claude, this is the sort of clash that can’t be overcome even though I’ve told him that he might be wrong. I had read that Monet apparently loved chickens. In fact, he was fanatical about them.
The final guests to arrive were Paul, who is Constance’s cousin, and his partner Delphine. Paul is a maths teacher and sports a permanent hangdog expression, which gives the impression he might be quite sensible, whereas he is quite bonkers. He once had to choose between his beloved pet chicken Cherie, which lived permanently in his house and accompanied him in the car when he went to the shops, and nubile girlfriend of the time Sylvie, who refused to share a pillow with poultry. He chose Sylvie – he’s not that bonkers – but the relationship was never quite the same. Paul pined for Cherie for months until Sylvie lost her temper and dumped him for a baker from Béthune. Delphine, with her calm and placid nature, is perfect for Paul. They bonded, she says, after meeting at a flea market and spotting at the same time a book about mushrooms that they both wanted, revealing their shared love of mushroom foraging. She allowed Paul to buy the book and he took her to a secret forest to find fungi. One fungi led to another and their wedding was planned for October.
