Moosewood Restaurant Simple Suppers

by Moosewood Collective

  GREEN PEPPERCORNS are harvested when they’re unripe, soft, and aromatic. Green pepper can be sprinkled directly onto food or first mashed into a paste.

  BLACK PEPPERCORNS are picked green and then turn black when dried. Black pepper has a more complex, hotter, sweeter taste than green.

  WHITE PEPPERCORNS are picked when fully ripened, soaked to remove their red outer skins, and then dried. White pepper has a mild flavor and is used in creamed soups and sauces where its color is preferable.

  cumin salt

  Cumin salt is a handy seasoning for all sorts of dishes. Crisp crudités are delicious dipped into it, or you can use it to season as you would plain salt. Sprinkle into scrambled eggs or on plain rice, potatoes, fish, corn on the cob, or sliced fresh vegetables, such as tomatoes and cucumbers.

  YIELDS ¼ CUP

  TIME: 5 MINUTES

  2 tablespoons cumin seeds

  2 tablespoons salt

  Toast the cumin seeds until aromatic, a couple of minutes, in a toaster oven or in a hot, dry skillet while stirring or shaking continuously. Allow to cool before grinding.

  Grind the cooled, toasted cumin seeds and the salt in a spice grinder.

  Store at room temperature, tightly covered.

  Red Pepper Butter Sauce

  blender tomato hot sauce

  This is the hot sauce we make regularly at the restaurant to ladle over burritos, enchiladas, tostadas, casseroles, and stuffed vegetables. Cooking the onions and peppers quickly on high heat brings out flavor with less simmering time.

  YIELDS 2 CUPS

  TIME: 20 MINUTES

  1 tablespoon vegetable oil or olive oil

  1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

  1 small or ½ large bell pepper, chopped

  1 teaspoon ground cumin

  1 teaspoon ground coriander

  ¼ teaspoon cayenne or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

  1 15-ounce can of tomatoes

  ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

  In a heavy saucepan or skillet, heat the oil until it is almost smoking. Stir in the onion and bell peppers and sprinkle with salt. Cook on high heat, stirring often, until the peppers are blistered and beginning to brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in the cumin, coriander, and cayenne or red pepper flakes and remove from the heat.

  In a blender, purée the cooked onions and peppers with the tomatoes. Return the sauce to the pan, add the cilantro, and salt to taste. Simmer uncovered for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. (If the simmering sauce splatters, partially cover the pan.)

  This sauce will keep in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks.

  INGREDIENT NOTES If you use red bell pepper, the sauce will be a brighter red.

  Substitute a fresh chile, seeded for a milder “hot,” for the cayenne; cook it with the onion. For a smoky flavor, use 1 or 2 tablespoons of canned chipotles in adobo sauce in place of cayenne.

  serving & menu ideas

  Simmer vegetables such as onions, peppers, and zucchini in the sauce and serve over cornbread. Try it on Mexican Polenta-Stuffed Peppers or to cook the eggs in Poached Huevos Rancheros.

  creamy caper sauce

  A rendition of creamy white sauce—capers, herbs, and lemon make it different.

  YIELDS 2 CUPS

  TIME: 20 MINUTES

  ¼ cup butter

  ¼ cup unbleached white flour

  2½ cups hot milk

  ⅓ cup dry white wine (optional)

  2 tablespoons drained capers

  ½ teaspoon dried tarragon or dill

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  ⅛ teaspoon black pepper

  1 tablespoon lemon juice

  In a heavy saucepan on low heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly. Whisk in the hot milk, adding it in a slow, steady stream. Cook, stirring often, until the sauce is thickened, 4 to 5 minutes.

  Stir in the wine, capers, tarragon or dill, salt, and pepper and continue to cook for 5 minutes.

  Stir in the lemon juice and add more salt and pepper to taste. (If you don’t add the wine, you may need to add a little extra milk.)

  serving & menu ideas

  This sauce is delicious on fish. Try it on pasta, too; it’s especially pretty on spinach fettuccine topped with chopped tomatoes and grated Parmesan cheese. We sometimes add chunks of cooked salmon or steamed broccoli or cauliflower florets as well. Make extra to ladle on your favorite vegetable on a bed of couscous, rice, or noodles.

  sauce niçoise

  This pungent, quickly cooked sauce studded with olives and capers imparts the zesty flavors of southern France.

  YIELDS 2 CUPS

  TIME: 15 MINUTES

  1 cup finely chopped tomatoes

  ½ cup chopped pitted kalamata olives

  ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

  2 tablespoons capers, drained

  2 tablespoons lemon juice

  black pepper

  1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

  2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  ½ teaspoon dried thyme

  In a bowl, mix together the tomatoes, olives, parsley, capers, and lemon juice. Sprinkle generously with black pepper.

  Warm the oil in a saucepan on low heat, add the garlic and thyme, and cook for a minute. Add the tomato mixture, increase the heat to medium-high, and simmer, stirring frequently, just until the tomatoes soften and become saucy, about 5 minutes.

  INGREDIENT NOTE Dried thyme varies in freshness and potency, so use more or less depending on the strength and flavor of yours. If you have fresh thyme, use about 2 teaspoons.

  serving & menu ideas

  Grill, broil, pan-fry, or poach your favorite fish, and top it with Sauce Niçoise. It’s also good on shrimp or scallops. Stir some into Potato Salad with Green & White Beans to transform it into a fresh new dish.

  red pepper butter sauce

  This beautiful sunset-red sauce with flecks of green herbs turns pasta, vegetables, potatoes, or fish into a work of art. Leftover sauce keeps in the refrigerator for a week or two.

  YIELDS 1½ CUPS

  TIME: 10 MINUTES

  ½ cup olive oil

  6 garlic cloves

  ½ cup butter, at room temperature

  1 cup canned roasted red peppers (more or less is fine)

  1 tablespoon lemon juice

  ½ teaspoon salt

  2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or basil (optional)

  In a small skillet on medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic cloves and cook for about 3 minutes, until the garlic is golden. Remove from the heat.

  In a blender on medium speed, purée the butter, roasted red peppers, lemon juice, and salt. Pour in the oil and garlic and whirl until smooth. Taste and add more lemon juice or salt if needed. If using dill or basil, stir it in by hand.

  INGREDIENT NOTE To make the sauce with fresh bell peppers, stem, seed, and chop a large red bell pepper or 2 medium ones and cook in the oil with the garlic until soft, 12 to 15 minutes. Whirl in a blender with the butter, lemon juice, and salt until smooth.

  serving & menu ideas

  This sauce is excellent on pasta, such as penne or shells. For a beautiful color contrast, put 1½ cups of frozen peas in with the cooking pasta a couple of minutes before you drain it. Use the sauce in place of the oil in Pasta with Olives Piquant. Stir some into polenta or ladle a bit over a side of steamed asparagus or broccoli.

  mushroom sherry sauce

  Mushrooms simmered in sherry and sweet and savory seasonings—an elegant, yet hearty sauce.

  YIELDS 3 CUPS

  TIME: 30 MINUTES

  2 cups chopped onions

  2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

  12 ounces cremini or moonlight mushrooms, sliced (about 4 cups)

  1 teaspoon salt

  1 teaspoon ground sage or poultry seasoning

  ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

  ¼ teaspoon black pepper

  ½ cup dry sherry

&
nbsp; 1 tablespoon unbleached white flour

  In a covered saucepan on medium heat, cook the onions in the butter or oil for about 5 minutes, stirring once or twice. Increase the heat and add the mushrooms, salt, sage, nutmeg, and pepper and cook covered for 3 or 4 minutes, until the mushrooms begin to release liquid. Add the sherry and cook uncovered for 5 minutes.

  In a cup, combine the flour and ¼ cup of water to make a smooth paste. Whisk the paste into the mushrooms and cook on low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened.

  serving & menu ideas

  Stir into hot pasta and top with grated cheese. Excellent on fish, rice, and baked or mashed potatoes. This sauce is even hearty enough to serve as a meal over toast points.

  brown butter sauce

  We developed this little sauce, so easily made, to serve on Seared Scallops. But it’s so good that soon we were drizzling it on plain vegetables, fish, and grains, too.

  YIELDS ½ CUP

  TIME: 10 MINUTES

  ½ cup butter

  2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

  In a small pan on medium-low heat, melt the butter. Simmer for about 4 minutes until the butter melts and the solids sink to the bottom and very soon after turn brown—the butter will become nut-brown in color. Watch it closely because it can turn from nicely nutty brown to badly scorched in the wink of an eye. Remove from the heat, strain through a small sieve if you like, and stir in the balsamic vinegar.

  Brown Butter Sauce keeps in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks, and it reheats nicely in a microwave oven.

  simple tomato sauce

  YIELDS 3 CUPS

  TIME: 15 MINUTES

  6 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  1 tablespoon olive oil

  1 28-ounce can of plum tomatoes

  fresh chopped basil to taste

  ½ teaspoon salt

  ½ teaspoon black pepper

  In a saucepan on low heat, cook the garlic in the oil for a couple of minutes, until golden. Stir in the juice from the can of tomatoes.

  Squeeze the tomatoes with your hand to crush them or cut them coarsely with a knife or kitchen scissors while they’re still in the can. Add them to the garlic with the basil, salt, and pepper, bring to a simmer, and cook on low heat for at least 5 minutes.

  variations

  • Cook about a cup of chopped onions with the garlic.

  • Before adding the garlic, cook some diced vegetables, such as zucchini, bell peppers, or carrots, in the oil until soft.

  • Add chopped roasted red peppers.

  • Add ½ teaspoon of oregano or crushed red pepper flakes.

  • Purée the sauce in a blender until smooth.

  • Stir about ¼ cup of cream cheese or sour cream into the sauce just before serving.

  • Add a couple of tablespoons of capers, sliced olives, and some red pepper flakes for a quick puttanesca sauce.

  serving & menu ideas

  Ladle over pasta, rice, polenta, broiled fish, breaded and baked eggplant rounds, or even fried eggs on toast. Dress up steamed cauliflower or green beans, or use it as the sauce for Seitan Pizza Subs.

  classic pesto

  YIELDS 1 CUP

  TIME: 10 MINUTES

  ⅓ cup toasted pine nuts, almonds, or walnuts, or a mixture

  1 garlic clove

  2 cups packed fresh basil leaves (about 2½ ounces)

  ⅓ cup olive oil

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  pinch of black pepper

  ⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

  In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the nuts and garlic until crumbly. Add the basil, oil, salt, pepper, and grated cheese and process until fairly smooth.

  variations

  Use soy or rice Parmesan for a vegan variation.

  If your basil supply is limited, or if you prefer a milder flavor, substitute spinach leaves for up to half of the basil.

  Add a touch of lemon juice or some chopped tomatoes.

  planning tip

  In the summer, when basil is abundant and reasonably priced, make pesto for your freezer. (Multiply this recipe for the amount of basil you have.) Omit the cheese and freeze the mixture in ice cube trays. When they’re frozen, pop the cubes out and store in a freezer bag, where they will keep for months. Then, when you’re ready for a taste of summer, defrost some cubes and purée with the cheese. The frozen cubes are also handy for tossing into soups, stews, and sauces for a quick flavor boost.

  serving & menu ideas

  Pasta tossed with pesto and topped with chopped tomatoes is one of our favorite simple suppers. Or stir some pesto into cooked rice or other grains. It also makes a nice sandwich spread—try it on Tortilla Melt or a cheese and tomato sandwich. Toss some with leftover pasta and add a few steamed or raw vegetables for a quick pasta salad.

  herbed hummus

  YIELDS 1½ CUPS

  TIME: 30 MINUTES

  HANDS-ON TIME: 15 MINUTES

  CHILLING TIME: AT LEAST 15 MINUTES

  1 15-ounce can of chickpeas, drained

  ¼ cup tahini

  3 tablespoons lemon juice

  ½ teaspoon salt

  1 garlic clove, sliced or chopped

  ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

  1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

  1 scallion, chopped (optional)

  Put the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, salt, garlic, and 3 tablespoons of water into the bowl of a food processor. Purée until smooth and creamy, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl if necessary. Add the parsley, dill, and scallions. Pulse just until the herbs are integrated; the hummus should be beige with flecks of green rather than a uniform pale green.

  Add more lemon juice and salt to taste. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes so the flavors of the herbs will come through. In a covered container in the refrigerator, Herbed Hummus will keep for 2 or 3 days.

  serving & menu ideas

  Serve with crackers, bread, or crudités. Make into a sandwich with multigrain bread, tomato slices, and lettuce. Serve alongside Greek Salad topped with Peppercorn Citrus Marinated Feta and include a bowl of Asparagus Avgolemono for a Greek-style feast.

  sicilian chickpea spread

  At Moosewood Restaurant, we’re always coming up with new bean spreads. Here’s a multipurpose, hummus-like spread, enhanced with rich creamy pine nuts, roasted red peppers, and fresh basil.

  YIELDS 2 CUPS

  TIME: 15 MINUTES

  ⅓ cup toasted pine nuts

  1 15-ounce can of chickpeas, drained

  1 large canned roasted red pepper

  1 garlic clove

  ¼ cup olive oil

  2 tablespoons lemon juice

  ⅓ cup packed fresh basil leaves

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  generous pinch of black pepper

  Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and whirl for 2 or 3 minutes, until light and creamy.

  serving & menu ideas

  For a quick dinner, toss with hot, just-drained pasta and add chopped tomatoes or steamed vegetables. Make extra spread so that you can serve it later with bread or crackers or with vegetable sticks. This spread also makes a great sandwich with lettuce and tomatoes.

  bean & walnut spread

  This nutty bean purée is inspired by lobio, a marinated bean salad from the Georgian Republic.

  YIELDS 3 CUPS

  TIME: 15 MINUTES

  1 cup toasted walnuts

  1 28-ounce can of red kidney beans (or 2 15-ounce cans), rinsed and drained

  2 large garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  5 scallions, chopped

  2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

  2 tablespoons olive oil

  2 tablespoons cider vinegar

  ½ teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon black pepper

  In the bowl of a food processor, grind the nuts until they make a smooth paste. Add the beans, garlic, about half of the scallions, the dill, olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper and purée
until quite smooth.

  Serve at room temperature or chilled, in a bowl or on a bed of greens, topped with the remaining scallions. This purée can be kept in the refrigerator for a couple of days. It loses a bit of its tang overnight, so add a little more vinegar to taste.

  serving & menu ideas

  Some of us love Bean & Walnut Spread as part of a composed salad: Serve it on a bed of greens with hard-boiled eggs, Beet Salad, creamy Broccoli Slaw, and rye bread. And it’s a fine sandwich spread, with lettuce and tomatoes, or dressed up with roasted red peppers, hard-boiled eggs, or pickles. It’s an excellent snack or appetizer with crudités and/or crackers or bread.

  spicy peanut sauce

  A rich and versatile sauce that can be used to make many delightful suppers. Triple the recipe so you’ll have leftovers.

  YIELDS ¾ CUP

  TIME: 5 MINUTES

  ⅓ cup peanut butter, smooth or chunky

  ⅓ cup warm water or apple juice