The Walküre
Purist’s dream
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Method on page 237
Made of four sections of high-quality porcelain, the Walküre (pronounced VAL-kur-ee; es ist deutsch!) has been around for more than 100 years. It’s still made, along with other porcelain goods, in the same factory in Bayreuth, Germany, that Siegmund Paul Meyer opened in 1899. High demand for his products prompted Meyer to launch the Walküre line of home goods in 1906. With its beautiful design and simple brew method, the Walküre is the perfect option for someone who wants a pour-over device that’s both easy on the eyes and easy to use—and full disclosure: this is my favorite device.
In my experience, the Walküre is relatively forgiving. It doesn’t require a paper filter, but it produces a cleaner cup than other paperless brewers, such as the French press. The Walküre’s ceramic filter allows oils and other insolubles through, but the slow pour makes it easier to produce a more delicate, complex cup. You should still be wary of overextraction from the fines sitting in the decanter, but that is easily avoided by serving the brew right away.
I’ll admit that the Walküre is one of the more esoteric devices in this book. You certainly won’t find it at home goods stores, and it’s also less likely that your local coffee shop sells it than other less popular devices, such as Clever drippers. It is, of course, available on the internet, particularly on coffee-supply websites. The other downside of the Walküre is it’s on the pricier side. The smallest Karlsbad (0.28L), which is more traditionally styled, runs about $89, and the small Bayreuth, which has a sleek, modern look, runs closer to $110. The prices only go up from there—a medium size (0.38L), which is the one I use, and a large size (0.85L) are also available. Another thing to consider is that the smallest Walküre can’t make multiple servings of coffee at once. I can make two modest cups with the medium size, but it’s probably best to think of it as a single-cup brewer.
HOW IT WORKS
We need to talk about the Walküre’s components, starting from the counter up. First, there is a decanter with a handle and a spout for pouring. Next, there is a cylindrical brewing chamber, which has a double screen of cross-hatched porcelain at the bottom. This is the device’s built-in filter. The grounds sit directly on top. Next, there is a dispersion plate that hangs inside the brewing chamber. To use it, you pour the water onto the plate, and it slowly drains through holes along the rim to the grounds below. Last is the lid, which fits atop both the dispersion plate, to keep heat in during the brew, and the decanter, for when you are ready to serve.
I am reminded of the designer’s ingenuity each time I brew with the Walküre. There are so many advantages, starting with the dispersion plate. This unique feature controls even the sloppiest of pours—the water can drain only so quickly through the holes, and when it does, it showers evenly over the bed at a consistent rate. It also keeps agitation to a minimum. Because of this, you don’t necessarily need a slow-pour kettle or a steady hand. The other advantage is you don’t need filters. The built-in filter looks improbable, but it effectively traps a surprising number of fines. In fact, because of the way the device is designed, the coffee bed itself acts as a filter, trapping fines before they can make it into the cup (this is sometimes called cake filtration). Some fines obviously do get through, but because of how the spout is positioned on the decanter (at least with the Karlsbad), I find that very few fines end up in the cup, although you may notice some in the decanter when you clean it.
The Kalita Wave
Low hassle, nuanced results
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Method on page 240
Kalita is a Japanese company that got its start making paper filters in Tokyo in 1958. It has since expanded its manufacturing to coffee brewing implements, like kettles and the Wave. The first Kalita dripper was manufactured in 1959, and its original design is said to have been strongly influenced by that of the Melitta, although it featured three holes to Melitta’s one. (I’m not sure if it’s a coincidence or not, but even the names and the logos are similar.) Since then, Kalita’s original dripper has evolved into the Wave, a unique pour-over device with a distinctive flat-bottomed design.
The Kalita Wave is available in two sizes, #185 (big) and #155 (small), each of which requires its own-sized filter. The device can be purchased in ceramic, glass, or stainless steel. As of this writing, familiar kitchenware retailers do not carry the Kalita Wave, although you might find it at your local craft coffee shop, particularly if the shop uses the Wave for its pour-over coffee. Like the BeeHouse, you may need to turn to the internet to purchase this device.
Many professionals feel that the Kalita Wave is a versatile, forgiving device. The dripper’s design does a good job of regulating water flow, which helps make up for user error, but it can make it difficult to use a continuous pour method with the Kalita Wave, especially if you are working toward the top end of its capacity. Therefore, I recommend using a pulse method for this device, which makes it a good choice for those who are just starting out with pour over.
KALITA WAVE FILTERS
Kalita Wave filters look a lot like your standard flat-bottomed wavy filters, but they are not! They are specifically designed to work with the Kalita Wave dripper. When you drop a Kalita Wave filter into the Wave, you’ll notice it doesn’t touch the bottom of the device, which is intentional. Like the Chemex, Kalita Wave filters play an integral role in the function of the device. Their accordion-wall design is meant to suspend the filter inside the dripper. This is designed for temperature control; the pockets of air that form between the filter and the sides of the device, as well as between the filter and the bottom of the device, are said to insulate the slurry. With other cone drippers, the filter lies right up against the wall of the device, and some people believe the material of the dripper, particularly when it’s metal or plastic, can draw heat away from the brew and affect extraction. You may be able to find Wave filters at a local coffee shop. If not, they are sold online for around $10 to $13 for a pack of 100. Make sure you are purchasing the correct filter size for your device.
HOW IT WORKS
The Kalita Wave is in the cone-dripper family—meaning it works on the same principles as other pour-over drippers—but its three triangulated holes and flat bottom set it apart and, some believe, give it some advantages. The design of the device makes a shallow, flat coffee bed, which discourages agitation more than other cone drippers. This kind of coffee bed also makes it difficult for water to create channels, leading to more even extraction. It tends to use a coarser grind than other pour-over devices, and its design minimizes turbulence. With the help of its filter, the design of the Kalita also encourages the water to go downward toward the coffee bed, instead of bypassing it, as can happen with other cone brewers. Additionally, a raised Y-shaped ridge on the bottom of the device prevents the filter from creating a seal and restricting airflow too much.
Because of these characteristics, the Kalita’s brewing time is relatively long, and it can tease out character and complexity from a variety of different coffees. You can choose to brew into a carafe or directly into your cup. Kalita also sells branded glass servers and decanters for those who want to keep it in the family.
The Chemex
Mid-century modern cool, clean taste
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Method on page 243
Invented in 1941 by German designer Peter Schlumbohm, the Chemex Coffeemaker is one of the few products to achieve icon status in both popular culture and the art world. If you missed the Chemex sitting in the background of Megan Draper’s California kitchen on Mad Men, then take a trip to the Museum of Modern Art in New York, where it is the only coffeem
aker in the museum’s permanent collection.
Ralph Caplan, a design critic and professor at the School of Visual Arts in New York, has described Schlumbohm’s invention as “a synthesis of logic and madness.” Many of Schlumbohm’s designs were influenced by his background in chemistry and his interest in marketing—his products were often practical and capable of appealing to a wide audience. The Chemex is patented as a “filtering device” and was intended for uses inside and outside of the kitchen, such as laboratory filtration.
Today, the Chemex is available in several sizes—3 cup, 6 cup, 8 cup, and 10 cup—and each size comes in two different styles: the classic wooden-collar look (pictured) or the sleek glass-handle look. Both styles are made of glass and require the use of special Chemex filters. The Chemex is one of the most popular pour-over devices right now (as of this writing, the Chemex factory in Massachusetts is struggling to keep up with demand). You can find it for sale in almost any coffee shop and at many chain retailers, such as Bed Bath & Beyond and Williams Sonoma.
The Chemex requires more technique than other devices, and it may require more practice to get it right. Unlike some other pour-over models, the larger Chemex sizes are capable of making fairly big batches of coffee. Many people say Chemex coffee has a very distinct taste—it’s incredibly clean, that is, free of silt and coffee oils. It’s kind of the opposite of a French press if that appeals to you.
CHEMEX FILTERS
Because the Chemex is so popular right now, you may be able to purchase Chemex filters from your local coffee shop or large home goods retailer. Otherwise, you’ll need to order them online. These filters are quite a bit more expensive than Melitta and V60 filters—a pack of 100 costs between $8.90 and $17.50, depending on where you purchase them.
Unlike Melitta and other wedge-shaped filters, Chemex filters come to a point at the bottom. Chemex filters can be white or natural, circular or square, and they are significantly thicker (20 to 30 percent, according to the manufacturer) than other types of filters, which allows them to trap more oils and sediments. Because of this, the Chemex produces a distinctly clean-tasting brew. Many people will tell you that the filter is what makes Chemex coffee different from any other.
Obviously, these filters are specifically designed to be used with a Chemex. In addition to being thicker, they are much larger than most other filters. Unlike Melitta filters, Chemex filters don’t have a seam. Instead they are folded (you can fold them yourself or buy them prefolded). The shape of the filter is crucial to the function of the device. When the Chemex filter is properly wetted, it creates a seal against the glass, except for two air vents—the grooved spout and the gap opposite the spout—which allow for proper airflow to help regulate the rate of extraction. When correctly folded, a Chemex filter has a layer of paper on one side and three layers of paper on the other side. The three layers are placed on the spout side of the device, creating extra reinforcement for the spout air channel. If the filter is placed the opposite way, it may collapse into the spout mid-brew, which will break airflow and drastically increase your extraction time, resulting in overextracted coffee. Chemex filters come in a variety of sizes, so be sure to choose the filter that fits your device!
HOW IT WORKS
It’s not hard to see the scientific influence in the Chemex’s deceptively simple design. Essentially, it is a glass flask that nips inward in the middle, giving it the shape of an hourglass. The funnel on top holds the paper filter, while the bottom half serves as a carafe. The genius, though, is hidden in two subtle design elements: the pouring groove and the shape of the funnel, both of which work in concert with the Chemex filter to ensure a proper rate of extraction.
However beautiful and ingenious its design, the Chemex is not very forgiving. If you use grounds that are too fine, it will be obvious, as your water may come to a standstill. The thick Chemex filter also has a pointed tip that makes it highly susceptible to the effects of fines migration, which makes it particularly frustrating to try to use a blade grinder with a Chemex (you’ll see why on page 85).
That being said, in the right hands, the Chemex can produce more nuanced cups than some other devices, as it gives the brewer complete control over certain variables, such as flow rate. When you use a Chemex, your brewing technique controls the flow rate more than the design of the device. Since the Chemex puts technique front and center, it is a favorite in craft coffee shops around the country.
The Hario V60
Control freak heaven
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Method on page 246
Although the V60 is a relatively new take on the old cone design (it was first released in 2005), it’s probably among the most prized devices in craft coffee shops today. The V60 is made by Hario, a Japanese company that started in 1921 as a heat-resistant glass manufacturer and evolved to be one of the most recognized names in coffee implements. It comes in two sizes: #01 (small) and #02 (large), both of which require the use of special #01 and #02 V60 filters, respectively. The device is available in plastic, ceramic, glass, or steel, each of which comes with a different price tag (surprise: the plastic option is the most affordable).
The device does very little to regulate flow rate, which means it’s up to the brewer. In my opinion, the V60 and the Chemex are among the most difficult devices to master. The V60 is not impossible to brew on, but it does require a certain level of technique (especially if you are new to pour-over brewing)—and a slow-pour kettle. If you aren’t interested in learning technique or purchasing extra equipment, don’t bother with this one.
I’ve seen V60s for sale at almost every craft coffee shop I’ve been to, and as of this writing, retailers such as Williams Sonoma, Crate and Barrel, and Bed Bath & Beyond also have it in stock.
HARIO V60 FILTERS
Made in Japan—an epicenter of craft coffee culture—V60 filters use a lightweight, high-quality paper. These filters are very similar in shape to Melitta filters, but they taper to a sharp point (like the Chemex filters). To use, fold the filter at the seam and place it in your device.
Due to the V60’s popularity in craft coffee shops, many shops usually sell both the device and the filters, making for an easy purchase if you happen to live close to any. The cost of V60 filters is comparable to that of Melitta filters (between $5 and $7 for 100), but, as mentioned previously, they are not quite as ubiquitous.
HOW IT WORKS
The V60 is a variation of the classic dripper filtration system. Its name reveals its distinguishing design: the sides of the device, which look like a V, funnel down at a 60-degree angle to an open base with one relatively large hole at the bottom. This shape, combined with the device’s signature spiraled ribbing, is said to allow coffee to drain from both the bottom and sides of the device, allowing for a more even brew.
The V60 is generally more sensitive to brewing variables than other devices—in fact, I might say it’s the most difficult method to master. Because of the large hole at the bottom, you really need a slow, continuous pour to ensure that the water doesn’t just go whooshing out the bottom, making a gooseneck kettle essentially a requirement. On the other hand, there is a good reason why it’s used in so many coffee shops: it can produce a very nuanced cup. Some feel it can produce the best cup, more so than any other device.
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT GUIDE
Most brewing devices require additional equipment, and if you don’t own that equipment already, you have to factor it into your decision about which device to use. The rest of this chapter goes deep into the three types of additional equipment—grinders, scales, and kettles—that I recommend for optimal brewing and why I think each deserves a place on the brew bar. Ideally, you would own all three, but I realize that is not always possible or preferable.
Bearing that in mind, I have designed this guide to help you select a device based on how gadget-tolerant you are. It recommends cert
ain devices depending on whether you’re willing to buy one, two, or three pieces of additional equipment. No matter which category you fall into, I’ve made device and equipment recommendations that will set you up to make an optimized cup. Additionally, I chose the brewing methods for this book with these recommendations in mind—every method in chapter 6 corresponds to the amount of additional equipment you’re willing to purchase.
If, at this point, you still have no idea what device to choose, this guide might be a good place to start. If you already own some equipment, the guide can help you choose a device with the least amount of additional investment—or if you already have a device, it can help you make decisions about the next steps to take as you read through the rest of the chapter.
Lastly, the guide will help the cost-conscious among you stay within your budget. Whether we like it or not, whether it’s a self-imposed factor or not, price is still a barrier of entry when it comes to making coffee at home. As you’ve seen, the cost of a device alone can run the gamut from about $10 to over $100. But in addition to the cost of the device, you should also consider the cost of the extra equipment that will help you optimize your cup.
You can, of course, make coffee without any special equipment, but the point of this book is to help you optimize your brew—and equipment plays a leading role in doing that.
GRINDERS
In the early days of global coffee consumption, everyone bought their beans whole and ground them fresh before use. It wasn’t until the 1900s that the Big American Coffee Oligarchy and its stalwart crew of marketing men started making headway with their vacuum seals and preground beans. “Convenience!” they said. “It’s what you need!” Coffee marketing in the United States has almost uniformly put cost and convenience ahead of quality, and that message, despite recent trends, still holds strong today.
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