The Seine

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The Seine Page 33

by Elaine Sciolino


  connecting, of the Seine, 14

  in Gennevilliers, 164

  Seine at Troyes and network of, 62, 63, 64, 65

  canoe-rower culture, 109

  canoes, prehistoric, in Bercy, 72, 73–74, 75

  carless Seine initiative, 310

  Carmen (Bizet), 252, 321

  Caron, Leslie, 167, 168, 290

  carp, introduced into the Seine, 116

  Carpeaux, Jean-Baptiste, 122

  Cartier-Bresson, Henri, 192

  Casadebaig, Sophie, 42, 43, 46

  Castro, Fidel, 142, 334

  Catholics, civil war between Huguenots and, 204

  Caudebec-en-Caux:

  postcard of le mascaret appearing at, 270

  origination of name, 273

  Cavelier, René-Robert, Sieur de La Salle. see La

  Salle, Robert de

  Celles-sur-Ource, 53

  Celtic Gauls, Gallo-Roman temple and, 35

  Cendrars, Blaise, 3

  Cenni, Maxime, 119

  Ceres (Demeter), 47, 48

  Cerny people, 73–74

  C’était un rendez-vous (short film), 175–76

  Cézanne, Paul, 240, 242, 252, 321

  Chamber Music (Joyce), 6

  Champagne:

  in Aube region, history of, 52–53

  designated vineyards in France, 51–52

  global thirst for, 53

  luxury vs. artisanal, 53

  on the Seine, 51, 53–57

  Champagne 2e Zone (Champagne of Second Rank), 53

  Champagne industry, revenues of, 52

  Champ de Mars, 243

  Champs-Élysées, Avenue des, 90, 171, 289, 298, 311, 333

  Chanel’s J12 ceramic unisex watch ad, the Seine, seduction, and, 139

  “Chanson de la Seine” (Prévert), 9

  chapeau de Caudebec (Caudebec hat), 273, 275

  Charade (film), 17, 136–37

  Charbit, Milena, 235, 242, 243, 244

  Charigot, Aline, 254

  Charles VII, king of France, 261

  Charles IX, king of France, 226

  Charles the Simple, king of France, 263, 321

  Château de Malmaison, 21

  Château Devaux, Champagne estate, 53–55, 54

  Château du Taillis, 285

  Château Gaillard, 263, 284, 321

  Châtillon-sur-Seine, 20, 58, 60, 61, 63

  Saint-Vorles Church in, 58, 60

  Chauvet, Monsignor Patrick, 331

  Chazelle, Damien, 167, 168

  Chevalier, Maurice, 173, 183

  Child, Julia, 259, 302

  Child, Paul, 302

  Chinese couples, pre-wedding photographs of, along the Seine, 8, 12, 192

  Chirac, Jacques, 99, 100

  Christo, 86

  cinema. see films, scenes on the Seine

  Cinémathèque Française, Paris, 169, 170

  Cité de la Mode et du Design cultural center, 309

  city of love. see Paris

  Clairvaux, abbey at, 52

  Claudel, Camille, 65

  Clément, René, 290

  climate change:

  changing of the Seine and, 147, 151

  flood predictions and, 104

  “pancakes” of ice on the Seine and, 277

  Clos de Rome choir, performance for bateliers and their families, 155–56

  Club Nautique, 148

  Cluny Museum, vestiges of the Nautes at, 76

  coat of arms, Paris:

  image of, 70

  public buildings adorned with, 80, 92

  on secondhand Hermès scarf, 81

  and symbol of a ship in Lutetia, 77

  tribute paid to the Nautes and, 79–80

  Cobb, Richard, 227

  Collins, Larry, 290

  Colonel Paulin (fireboat), 336

  Columbey-les-Deux-Églises, 53

  Columbia River, 180

  Communist Party of France, 302

  Conciergerie (medieval prison), 126, 192, 311

  Conflans-Sainte-Honorine:

  French capital of the bateliers at, 154

  pillars of barge culture preserved at, 10, 161

  “confluence” rule for the name of the Seine, 25

  container ships, 164, 260

  Cooper, Chris, 175

  Coppola, Francis Ford, 290

  Coriton, Bastien, 273, 274, 275

  Corot, Henry, 43, 44, 45

  Côte des Bar, 52

  Cottin, Camille, 139

  Coty, René, 17

  Cour Carrée, 14

  Courbet, Gustave, 249

  “CPR Annie,” 225

  Crazy Horse (Paris cabaret), 123

  Crosby, Bing, 183

  Cruise, Tom, 169

  Curie, Marie, 240

  Daguerre, Louis, 191

  daguerreotypes, 85, 191–92

  Daubigny, François, 249

  Damon, Matt, 175

  dams, 103, 117, 145, 180, 272

  dancing, along the Seine, 139, 167–69, 306, 311, 312–14

  Danube River, 5, 9, 180, 269

  Daumier, Honoré, 100–101, 109

  Davy, Marie-Christine, 254

  Day, Doris, 183

  D-Day, 284, 286, 287, 321

  Deae Sequana Rufus donavit (Rufus gave this to the goddess Sequana), 43

  Death in Paris (Cobb), 227

  Deauville, 298

  Debbouze, Jamel, 240

  de Gaulle, Charles, 53, 92, 333, 334

  Delanoë, Bertrand, 133, 227, 310

  Delavigne, Casimir, 301

  Delon, Alain, 290

  Demeter (Ceres), 47, 48

  Demunck, Nathalie, 275

  Denis, patron saint of France, 248

  Denis, Serge, 212

  Depardieu, Gérard, 13

  Derain, André, 62, 252

  Descension, Nuit Blanche installation, 124

  Deschamps, Eustache, 181

  Deshays, Émile, 261

  d’Estaing, Valéry Giscard, 293

  Détournement (Thidet), 310

  de Troyes, Chrétien, 62

  Devaux, Jean-Pol Auguste, 54

  Deyts, Simone-Antoinette, 37

  Dijon, 29, 30, 32, 43

  Musée Archéologique de Dijon, 42, 44–45, 46

  statue of Sequana in museum in, 40, 41

  dikes, the Seine at Troyes and, 62

  Diplomacy (film), 290–91

  Dom Pérignon, 51

  Donen, Stanley, 17

  Dordogne River, 21

  Douglas, Kirk, 290

  Douix River, 60

  Druids, 33, 333

  Dubuffet, Jean, 244

  Ducasse, Alain, 311, 312

  Ducasse sur Seine (restaurant), 311–12

  Duchamp, Marcel, 265

  Dufy, Raoul, 300

  Dumas, Alexandre, 10

  Duteurtre, Benoît, 303–4

  Edict of Nantes, 83

  Edison, Thomas, 170

  Edwards, Blake, 135

  Eiffel, Gustave, 145, 318

  Eiffel Tower, 6, 15, 16, 90, 98, 194, 289, 290, 291, 316, 317, 318, 324, 338

  coat of arms and, 80

  houseboats and, 147, 150

  in films, 170, 171, 173, 174

  fishing nearby, 119

  flood of 1910 and, 145

  illuminated, at night, 82

  lights of, millennium celebration and, 122

  nighttime view of Pont d’Iéna and place du Trocadéro from, 120

  Pont Neuf, comparison to, 84, 85

  Eisenhower, Dwight D., 287

  Elbe River, 278

  Elizabeth II, queen of England, nighttime boat ride on the Seine, 17

  English Channel, 24, 294

  Entertainment Weekly, 168

  Épernay, vast vineyards around, 51

  Ephrussi, Charles, 254

  Épinoche (barge), 156

  Epte River, 250

  Equilbey, Laurence, 237

  Essoyes, 53

  Eugène Boudin Museum, Honfleur,
298

  Eugénie, empress of France, 134

  Exposition Universelle of 1889, 318

  Exposition Universelle of 1900, 90, 170

  early River Brigade and, 215

  Zola’s photographs of, 194

  ex-votos (votive offerings):

  Deae Sequana Rufus donavit inscription, 43

  discovered at source of the Seine, 36

  at Musée Archéologique de Dijon, 43, 44, 45

  Facebook, barge life and, 162

  Fargue, Léon-Paul, 202, 204

  Fauvist paintings of the Seine, 300

  “Femme Fatale” (Maupassant), 134

  Ferrat, Jean, 182

  Ferré, Léo, 182

  films, scenes on the Seine, 166, 167–76. see also individual films

  Fiorini, Mattéo, 18

  firefighters. see Brigade de Sapeurs-Pompiers de Paris fireworks, sexuality and, 130, 131–33

  fish, underneath River Brigade main pontoon boat, 216

  Fishermen’s Association, of the Hauts-de-Seine department, 118

  fishing, on the Seine, 106, 107, 115–19

  fishing permits (cartes de pêche), 117

  Flâneur, The (White), 136

  Flaubert, Gustave, 10, 101, 127, 133, 139, 259, 265–66, 267, 269, 287, 321

  Fleury, Benoît, 57

  Fleury, Colette, 57, 105

  Fleury, Émile, 55

  Fleury, Jean-Pierre, 55

  biodynamic farming methods used by, 57

  on his family’s vineyard, near Courteron, 50 Fleury, Jean-Sébastien, 57

  Fleury, Morgane, 57

  Fleury family, Champagne estate, near Courteron, 50, 55–56, 104

  fleuve, masculine appellation of, 10

  floating houses:

  elaborate, 148

  odd and rare, 142

  see also houseboats

  floods and flooding, of the Seine, 34, 73, 78, 84

  in 582, 144

  in 814, 144

  in 1658, 144

  in 1910, 140, 141, 145, 146, 182

  in 2016, 34, 141–42, 143, 144, 145–47

  climate change and predictions of, 104

  Sequana and, 109

  songs and, 181

  statue of the Zouave as unofficial flood monitor, Pont de l’Alma, 6, 146

  in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, 144

  Fluctuart, Right Bank of the Seine, 315

  Fluctuat nec mergitur (she is tossed on the waves but does not sink):

  on coat of arms of Paris, 70, 79, 80

  on the Paris firefighters’ helmets, 338

  slogan of resistance, in wake of terrorist attack in 2015, 80

  Fontainebleau, 156

  Marie-Antoinette and, 66

  painters and, 67

  Seine touches forest of, 65

  Treaty of, 21

  Ford, Glenn, 290

  Foreign Correspondent (film), 284–85

  Forestier, Laurent Lorenzi, 226

  Fort Niagara, 268

  Fournaise, Alphonse, 110, 253

  Fournier, Édouard, 202

  France:

  designated vineyards for Champagne in, 51–52

  GRs (grandes randonnées) in, 60

  Neolithic, monument builders of, 73–74

  Notre-Dame Cathedral as center of, 332

  Paris as source of power in, 11

  patron saint of, 248

  Seine’s outsized role in, 19–20, 21–22

  system of waterways in, 21

  France Musique, 303

  François I, king of France, 266, 301

  Franprix supermarket chain, 164

  Fraser, James Earle, 231

  French Hiking Federation, 60

  French Line, 293

  French literature, romance of the Seine in, 16, 133–34

  French Revolution, 17, 93, 334

  bridges over the Seine during, 85

  bouquinistes during and after, 204

  centennial of, commemorating, 316, 318

  and Jumièges, 282

  Marie Antoinette imprisoned during, 311

  Notre-Dame Cathedral as a Temple of Reason during, 334–335

  nude river bathing banned after, 100

  Pont de la Concorde built during, 90

  suicide decriminalized after, 227

  Freycinet (river barge), 142

  Friends of the Sources of the Seine, 30, 38

  Fulton, Robert, 268

  Gagneux, Yves, 100, 101

  Gagnidze, George, 186

  Gallet, Jean-Claude, 329, 330, 331, 332, 336, 337–38

  Gallo-Roman temple, at source of the Seine:

  Celtic Gauls and, 35

  remnants of, 36–37, 38

  Galloy, Jacky, 198, 200–201, 202, 207, 208–9

  Ganges River, 9

  Ganivet, Vincent, 299

  Gardais, Jean Jack, 111

  Gare Saint-Lazare, 145

  Garonne River, 21

  Gaul, Roman conquest of, 31, 35

  Gaumont studio, sponsorship for restored L’ Atalante, 160

  Gautier, Théophile, 103

  Gautrand, Jean Claude, 193

  gay men, cruising and sexual refuge along the banks of the Seine and, 135–36

  Gehry, Frank, 170

  Geneviève, patron saint of Paris, 90, 144

  Gennevilliers:

  description of, 164

  grain in cargo barge at, 152

  storage silos, 309

  Geoffrey the Handsome, 321

  Géricault, Thèodore, 113

  Gershwin, George, 167

  Gershwin, Ira, 167

  Gibbons, Helen Davenport, 141

  Giesler, Hermann, 289

  Gil Blas (Lesage), 19

  Gillet, Laurent, 54, 55

  Gima (barge), 156

  Giraud, Amandine, 219, 220

  Girod, Jean-Pierre, 285

  Gironde River, 278

  Giverny, Monet’s residence in, 250–51, 264, 321

  Gleizes, Albert, 241

  Gontier, Jean-Marie, 332

  Gosling, Ryan, 168

  goujon (fish), 115

  Grandin, Michel, 26

  Grand Palais, 92, 122, 206, 311

  Grant, Cary, 17, 132, 136

  Gravelet, Jean François. see Blondin, Charles

  Great Wall of China, Guo-Qiang’s explosive event at, 131

  Green, Julien, 14, 116, 202, 317, 325

  Green Berets, The (film), 183

  Grégoire de Tours, 144

  gribane (nineteenth-century sailboat), 272

  GR2 trail, 60

  Guillaume-Petit, Sophie, 299

  Guillaumin, Jean-Baptiste Arnaud, 300

  guinguettes (small restaurant-cabarets outside of Paris), 134–35

  Guns at Last Light, The (Atkinson), 281

  Guo-Qiang, Cai:

  conceptual pyrotechnic explosive events by, 131

  One Night Stand, 130, 131–33

  Gustave Flaubert Literary Hotel, 265

  Guthrie, Woody, 180

  Hades (god of the underworld), 47

  Hamel, Father Jacques, 213

  Hand Book up the Seine, The (Smith), 116

  Harfleur, 301

  Haropa, 164

  Haudiquet, Annette, 300

  Haussmann, Georges-Eugène, Baron, 5

  Île de la Cité transformed by, 239

  ordered to define source of the Seine, 31

  Parisian water supply and sewer networks and, 102

  as “prefect of the Seine,” 15

  Hauts-de-Seine, 109, 118, 237

  “hedge warfare,” 284

  Heller, Serge, 313

  Hemingway, Ernest, 7, 115

  Henri III, king of France, 83

  Henri IV, king of France, 66, 93, 239, 274

  assassination of, different versions of, 86–87

  construction of Pont Neuf under, 83–84, 88

  equestrian statue of, 85, 93, 95

  swimming in the Seine, 100

  Henry V
I, king of England, 333

  Hepburn, Audrey:

  in Charade, 17, 136

  on a boat on the Seine, during filming of Paris When It Sizzles, 166

  in Sabrina, 13

  Heraclitus, 326

  Heva, 47, 48

  Hidalgo, Anne, 310, 311

  2024 Summer Olympic campaign organized by, 98, 99

  on Nuit Blanche, 124

  Hillairet, Jacques, 333

  Hinnemann, Yvan, 138

  Historial Jeanne d’Arc, Rouen, 262

  historic boats, Sequana Association and, 110

  Hitchcock, Alfred, 132, 284

  Hitler, Adolf, 287, 289, 290, 291

  Hoareau, Antoine, 297

  on discovery of bronze statue of Sequana, 44

  on the origins of the Seine, 29

  seeing the source of the Seine with, 30–38

  Honfleur, 249, 301, 320

  divide between Le Havre and, 304

  driving from Le Havre to, 297–98

  end of the Seine and, 293

  estuary, 276

  pleasure boats at the inner harbor of, 295

  tourism in, 294

  Honglei, Sun, 192

  Hôtel des Invalides, Napoléon’s sarcophagus in, 21

  Hôtel-Dieu, 239

  Houdini, Harry, 224

  houseboats, 6

  buying in Paris, complications tied to, 150

  city/suburban life divide and, 148

  mooring of, 145

  Mort Rosenblum’s naval craft, 142, 143–44, 145–46, 151

  motorless houses on pontoons, 148

  odd and rare, 142

  photograph of, 192

  in the Port de l’Arsenal, 149

  registered number of, in Paris, 148

  small port associations and, 147

  views of Paris from, 147

  working boats transformed into, 148

  House of the Knights Templar, Caudebec, 274

  Hudson, Henry, 266, 267

  Hudson River, 10, 133, 173

  Hugo (film), 228

  Hugo, Léopoldine, 229, 275

  Hugo, Victor, 319, 334

  on Abbey of Jumièges, 281

  Les Misérables, 222, 230

  Notre-Dame Cathedral and, 334-35

  the Seine and, 228–30

  Huguenots, 204, 282, 334

  Humbert, Stéphane, 162–63

  Hunchback of Notre-Dame, The (Hugo), 228, 229, 230, 334

  Hundred Years’ War, 263, 301, 333

  Île aux Bernaches, 114, 241–42

  Île aux Cygnes:

  creation of, 244

  quarter-scale replica of Statue of Liberty on, 316, 317, 318

  Île aux Dames, 238

  Île aux Juifs, joined by Pont Neuf to Île de la Cité, 84 Île aux Moines, 238

  Île aux Vaches, 239

  Île Bonport, 238

  Île de Belcinac, 237

  Île de Chatou (Island of the Impressionists), 109, 238, 246, 252

  dam and lock, 117

  La Maison Fournaise on, 108, 246, 253, 254

  Sunday afternoon of rowing from, 107–8, 111–15, 112, 320

  Île-de-France, 65, 247, 250

  wait time for houseboat berth in, 150

 

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