rue de la Ferronnerie, 87
rue de Rivoli, 14
rue des Charrettes, 287
rue des Deux Ponts, 14
rue de Seine, 14
rue du Bac, 14
Rueil-Malmaison, 252
Ruinart, 51
Russell, John, 206
Sabrina (film), 13
Sacré-Coeur Basilica, Montmartre, 95, 126, 216, 289
Saint-André (tower), 287
Saint-Étienne-du-Rouvray Church, hostage taking at, 213
Saint-Gaudens, Augustus, 231
Saint-Georges de Boscherville abbey, 277
Saint-Germain-en-Laye, 321
Saint-Germain-Source-Seine, 29–30, 60
Saint-Gervais Church, 192
Saint Helena, Napoléon exiled to, 21
Saint Laurent, Yves, 148–49
Saint-Maclou Church of, 287
Saint Nicolas of the Batellerie Chapel, 161
Saint Peter’s Basilica, 331
Saint Peter’s Church (Jumièges), 282
Saint-Seine-l’Abbaye, 37
Saint-Vorles Church, Châtillon-sur-Seine, 58, 60
Salon Carré of the Louvre, 192
salsa dancers, in the Tino Rossi, 306, 312–14
Sand, George, 127, 139, 265
sandbars, 237, 272, 276–77
Saône River, 21
Sartre, Jean-Paul, 232, 304
Sauvan, Jean-Baptiste-Balthazar, 271, 320
Savoy, Guy, 13. see also Restaurant Guy Savoy Schmidt, Sophie, 229
Sciolino, Elaine:
begins work as foreign correspondent for Newsweek, 3, 142
covers Iranian Revolution for Newsweek, 119
end of first marriage, 3
experiences flood of 2016 on the Seine, 143, 144, 145–47
finding the Seine’s path to Paris, 60, 61, 63–68
guided tour of source waters with Andy, 30–38
interviews Karl Lagerfeld for Newsweek, 324
as Paris bureau chief for the New York Times, 143
pitches Sequana project to Reinvent the Seine, 45–46, 299
seduced by the Seine, 3, 4, 6–7, 325
Sequana proposal rejected by Reinvent the Seine, 307–8
swims in the Seine near its source, 104–5
writes Lumière column for New York Times’ T Magazine, 193
Scorsese, Martin, 160, 228
Secret Life of the Seine, The (Rosenblum), 302
seduction, the Seine as ideal setting for, 131–32, 133, 134, 138–39
Seigne, patron saint of the harvest, 37
Seine (Kelly), 249
Seine, the:
artistic depictions of, 77, 248–50
author’s journey of self-discovery with, 7, 325
as a boater’s paradise, 109–10
bouquinistes (booksellers) on, 198, 199–209, 330
challenges for the photographer vs. the painter, 193
Champagne on, 51, 53–57
Chinese couples in pre-wedding photographs along, 8, 12, 192
cleanup campaigns for, 103–4, 106, 116
climate change and, 104, 147, 151, 227
colors of, 22, 256
as communal burial ground, 226–27
in the countryside near its source, 39
cruising on the SS Joie de Vivre, 317–25, 322
Darius Khondji captures light of, 170–73
debate over the name of, 25–26
dredging of, 1960s, 272
drinking water from, 34, 102
feminine name and identity of, 10
in film history, 166, 167–76
finding salvation along the banks of, 231–32
first boats to travel on, 72–74
fishing in, 77, 92 106, 115–19, 174
flooding of, 6, 34, 84, 89, 104, 109, 140, 141, 143–47, 147, 182, 219, 273
garbage in, 15, 102, 159, 217
gastronomic bounty of, 22
geography of, 10–12, 22, 24, 29
harmony between Paris and, 15
Haussmann and transformation of, 5, 15, 31, 102, 239
hearing voice of, 6–7, 13
at heart of transportation network, 164
human voice of, in The Strange River, 325
as ideal setting for seduction, 131–32, 133, 138–39
in imagery throughout Paris, 80–81
“Impressionist” walks along, 252
infection and bacterial threats and, 104, 216
island-hopping on, 237–44
Le Havre’s relationship with, 20, 22, 24, 45–46, 48, 164, 249–50, 253, 275–76, 285, 292, 293–95, 297, 304, 308
le mascaret on, 270, 271–72, 278, 279
as a liquid graveyard, 223, 224
map of, xii–xiii
Marcilly-sur-Seine and succession of identities for, 20, 24–25, 63, 65
Monet on, 247
Napoléon Bonaparte’s life events and, 19–21
navigability of, 24, 61, 63, 65–66, 73, 110, 144–46, 163, 236, 253
at night, 9, 11, 16–17, 82, 93, 95, 121–28, 130, 131–32, 135, 138, 146, 148–49, 160, 167, 169, 178, 179, 183–84, 189, 207, 211, 265, 306, 311–14, 319–20, 323
Notre-Dame Cathedral saved by water of, 329–30, 336–39
painting, 85, 93, 94, 134–35, 187, 205, 240, 244, 247–52, 255–57, 264, 300, 321
panoramic shot and, 170, 191, 192, 194, 248
paths to Paris and, 59–68
patrolling with the River Brigade, 212–20
in photographs, 8, 12, 85, 131, 161, 188, 189, 196, 288–89, 318, 338
pollution of, history behind, 97, 101–4, 116, 214
predators along, 135
reinventing, 299, 307–14
romantic power of, 9–10, 12, 16–17
in Rouen, 20, 22, 24, 164, 237–238, 259–60, 264–268, 271, 299
Sequana as most important symbol of, 10, 25–26, 29, 32, 35–37, 40, 42, 44, 46, 68, 109, 192, 297, 308, 338
sex and, 130, 131–39
signs of health in, 103, 114–16
songs connected to, 179–87
suicides and, 184, 212, 218, 225, 227, 228, 230, 250, 252
swimming in, 57, 97, 100–101, 104–5, 243
tides of, 49, 78, 271–72, 278, 300
tricks of cinematography and, 173–76
UNESCO World Heritage cultural site designation, 15–16, 310
Unknown Woman (L’Inconnue) of, 223–26
unpredictable currents of, 97, 214, 217, 229
watching the sunrise over, 323–25
woman reading a book by, 23
World War II-era relics in, 217
writers finding romantic inspiration in, 133–34
Zola’s photographs of, 188, 189, 190–91, 194
see also bridges across the Seine; Left Bank of the Seine; Paris; Right Bank of the Seine; Seine estuary; Sequana (goddess); source of the Seine
Seine at Samois, The (Guillaumin), 300
Seine at Vétheuil, The (Monet), 300
Seine Basin, freight transit route through, 162–64
Seine estuary, 24, 174, 249, 263, 271, 276, 294, 296, 299, 301
Duteurtre’s description of, 304
mud plugs in, 300
viewing from Mont-Joli, 295
Seine Valley, 55, 59 161, 267, 281, 283–84, 286, 288, 296
Sentimental Education (Flaubert), 133, 259, 265
Sequana (goddess), 29, 32, 35, 36, 37, 101, 192, 297, 299, 30–8, 344
Bernardin de Saint-Pierre retells mythical story of, 46–48
cult of, under Roman rule, 43
Gallo-Roman bronze statue of, 40, 41–43, 68, 75–76
interpretations of name for, 25–26
modern sculpture of, 33
name and identity of the Seine and, 10, 43, 109
Nodier retells mythical story of, 48–49
saving Notre-Dame, holy waters of the Seine, and, 338–39
temple site of, 43, 44, 45
Sequana Associati
on, 42, 321
headquarters in Chatou, 111–12
members of, 107, 108–9, 110–11, 112 mission of, 110
naming of, 109
rowing with members of, 108, 110–15, 112 Sequani tribe, 77
Sesame Street, 241
Seurat, Georges, 101, 118, 240, 241
sex and the Seine:
in French literature, 133–34
gay men and, 135–36
guinguettes and, 134–35
One Night Stand, 130, 131–33
Paris Plages and, 137–38
sexual liberation, the Seine and, 134–36
Seydoux, Léa, 171
Shahidi, Syrus, 139
Shall We Dance? (film), 183
Sieur Berthod, 85
Signoret, Simone, 290
Sim, Bérengère, 104–5, 135, 312
Simenon, Georges, 121
Šimon, Tavik Frantisek, 208
Sinbad (floating house), 148
Sisley, Alfred, 66, 241, 252, 253
Sisley, Henry, 253
Skeggs, Douglas, 264
Smith, John Frederick, 116
snakes, in the Seine, 218
social media, barge life and, 162
Something’s Gotta Give (film), 122
Sondheim, Stephen, 241
Songa Breeze (oil tanker), 273
songs:
of bargemen and women, 155–56
connected to the Seine, 133, 179–87
Sontag, Kareen, 113–14
source of the Seine:
in Burgundy, 10, 23, 104
divine origin of, 26
drinking water from, 34–35
Gallo-Roman temple at, 10, 25, 32, 35–38, 308, 338
guided tour with Antoine Hoareau, 30–38
signs marking, at Plateau of Langres (Burgundy), 28
statue of Sequana discovered at, 40, 41–44
stone sculpture of nymph in grotto at, 31, 31–32
swimming in waters near, 104–5
underground springs and, 33
see also Seine, the
Speer, Albert, 289
Spirit of St. Louis, The (Lindbergh), 11
Stack, Robert, 290
Statue of Liberty, New York, 317, 318
Statue of Liberty, Paris, 45, 316, 317, 318, 324
St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre (1572), 226
Steiner, Rudolf, 57
Stone, Emma, 168
storage silos, at the port of Paris, Gennevilliers, 309
Strange River, The (Green), 325
Strauss, Johann, 5, 180
street addresses, Seine as basis of, 20
streetlamps, 123. see also lampposts
street names, evoked by the Seine, 14
Stribling, Elizabeth, 138
Studio, Quai Saint Michel (Matisse), 251
suicides, 184, 212, 218, 227, 228, 230, 250, 252
Summer Olympics 2024 campaign:
diving event at Pont Alexandre III and, 96, 97–98
kayak flotilla event and, 98, 99
Olympic Village, 244
Paris wins bid, 99
Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte, A (Seurat), 118, 240–41
Sunday in the Park with George (Sondheim), 241
Suzanne (reconstructed steamboat), 111
swimming in the Seine, 55, 57, 96, 97, 100–101, 104–5, 134, 143, 161, 216, 243, 275
ban on, 97, 99, 212
guerrilla swimmers and, 104
history of, 100–101
near its source, 104–5
Tableau de Paris (Mercier), 83, 203
Takada, Kenzo, 86
Tanguy, Jacques, 266, 267, 268
Tashlich, 63–64
taxi boat service, 311
terroir, southern Champagne makers and, 53
textile industry, in Troyes, 62–63
Thames River, 9, 173
Thérèse Raquin (Zola), 227
“The Seine” (song), 183
Thidet, Stéphane, 310
Thomas, Philip Michael, 213
Tiberi, Jean, 75, 207
tides of the Seine, 15, 49, 237, 271, 272, 275–76, 278, 300
Tino Rossi, 139
dance-a-thons at, 312
salsa dancers in, 306, 312–14
Tivano (tour boat), 252
To Catch a Thief (film), 132
Tonti, Henri de, 268
Tosca (Puccini), 186
Treaty of Fontainebleau, 21
Trintignant, Jean-Louis, 290
trireme, 110
Troyes, history of, 62–63
Truffaut, François, 160, 225, 228
tugboats (pousseurs), 146, 185, 213, 214, 253
large wakes made by, 114
near Pont de Bercy, engraving of, 162 Tuileries Garden, 122
Twain, Mark, 5
Ulysses (Joyce), 132
“Under the Bridges of Paris” (song), 183, 184
Uniworld, 319
Unknown Woman of the Seine (L’Inconnue de la Seine), 224–26
Un monstre à Paris (animated film), 182
vaccinations, officers of River Brigade armed with, 216
Vacquerie, Charles, 229
Vacquerie, Charles-Isidore, 228–29
Val-de-la-Haye, 277
van Gogh, Vincent, 113, 241
Vase of Vix, in Châtillon-sur-Seine, 60, 61
Vaux-le-Vicomte, seventeenth-century château of, 67
Vedettes de Paris, tourist boats run by, 146
Velay, Philippe, 72
Velter, André, 11, 73
Veneux–Les Sablons, 156
Vergua, Nicolas, 119
Verlaine, Paul, 59, 208
Verne, Jules, 319
Verrazzano, Giovanni da, 266, 321
debate involving story of, 268
model of La Dauphine, 258
Verrazzano Bridge, New York City, 267
Versailles, 114, 236, 242, 250, 251, 273, 319, 321
American Friends of, 38
garden sculptures personifying rivers of France in, 21
inspiration for, 67
Vert, Louis, 192
Vert-Galant, Pont Neuf and, 93, 115, 139
Veuve Clicquot, 51
Victor Hugo Museum, Villequier, 228, 229, 230
Victor Victoria (film), 135
Vidal, Gore, 290
View to a Kill, A (film), 170
vignerons, 53, 56
Vigo, Jean, 160
Vikings, 11, 19, 89, 98, 108, 263, 272, 273, 275, 282, 301
Villequier, Victor Hugo Museum at, 228, 229, 230
vineyards, 21, 50, 52–56, 63, 104
Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation for, 52
Aube vignerons and, 53, 56
See also Champagne
Vintrin, Jean-Marc, 276–79
Viollet-le-Duc, Eugène Emmanuel, 334–35
Vix, on Mont Lassois, archaeological discoveries near, 60–61
Vlaminck, Maurice de, 252
Voies Navigables de France (VNF), 24, 110, 150
Volga River, 5
Voltaire, 72
von Choltitz, Dietrich, 290, 291
Vosges Mountains, 34
Wabash River, 5
walking the Seine, 59–60
Walpole, Horace, 102
Walter, Céline, 226
Wanderlust (nightclub), 309
Wars of Religion, 83, 87, 282
Waterloo, Napoléon’s defeat at, 21
water of the Seine, drinking at its source, 34–35
water routes (cours d’eau), 24
Wayne, John, 183
Weiss, Jean-Claude, 272
Welles, Orson, 290
Whistler, James McNeill, 249
White, Edmund, 136, 240
Wild Ass’s Skin, The (Balzac), 231–32
“wild bathing” ban, 100
Wilder, Billy, 13, 173
Willard, Emma, 263
William the Conqueror, 263, 277, 282, 321
Wilson, Owen, 171<
br />
windmills:
Moulin de Pierre, 280
war and, 284–85
World Trade Center (2001), collapse of twin towers of, 332
World War I, 21, 32, 67, 186, 238, 333
World War II, 11, 16, 60, 63, 154, 205, 217, 227, 236, 249, 273, 282, 283, 285, 288
Allied bombings of Le Havre, 294
Allied landing on beaches of Normandy, 284, 286
Rouen and, 260, 264
Yamuna River, 25
Yangtze River, 9
yole (rowing boat), 112
Yonne river, 20, 24, 25, 65, 73
Sequana myth and, 48
Zeus, 47
zinc paint tubes, invention of, 248
Zola, Alexandrine, 190
Zola, Émile, 10, 133, 227, 241, 304, 321
with his camera on the Seine, 188
photographic work of, 189–91, 192, 194, 195
Zouave soldier, stone statue of, at base of the Pont de l’Alma, 5, 6, 146, 221
ALSO BY
ELAINE SCIOLINO
The Only Street in Paris:
Life on the Rue des Martyrs
La Seduction:
How the French Play the Game of Life
Persian Mirrors:
The Elusive Face of Iran
The Outlaw State:
Saddam Hussein’s Quest for Power and the Gulf Crisis
Copyright © 2020 by Elaine Sciolino
All rights reserved
First Edition
Frontispiece: A back view of Notre-Dame
Cathedral before the fire of April 2019.
JULIE ANN HERBERT.
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The Seine Page 36
