‘It’s huge, Mum,’ Rosie sounds awestruck and I agree. The site is much bigger than it looks from ground level.
We are now on the vast open plateau. I feel happier up here, able to forget the steep drop because of the size of the sprawling site in front of us. We all turn to Daniel, expectantly.
‘The word acropolis is Greek for the highest point. Over there is the temple of Athena Nike and in the centre is the mighty Parthenon. Beyond that is the third main temple, named the Erechtheion. All three were built upon the remains of earlier temples.’
Both girls are listening intently, following Daniel’s hand as he points in each direction.
‘The Persians destroyed the Acropolis in a great battle. You can see the size of the cranes required as the huge blocks of stone and marble need to be lifted into place. The reconstruction work is nearing completion but it’s been a long project.’
Some of the gigantic pillars of the Parthenon look like a jigsaw puzzle of pieces, a mixture of old and new materials.
‘When did work here begin?’ I ask, marvelling at the time and money that has been spent on the reconstruction.
‘In 1975. All of the remaining and very valuable artifacts, the things that were on display inside the temples, are on show in the new museum.’ Both girls seem fascinated, although it had crossed my mind that maybe it would be a little too much history for them.
‘Will it fall down again?’ Rosie looks up at Daniel, awaiting a reply.
‘Hopefully not, Rosie. The columns have been rebuilt using titanium dowels, which is one of the strongest metals in the world.’
She looks impressed, turning to follow Bella, who heads off to take a closer look at the Parthenon sitting proudly, slightly off-centre on the plateau.
‘Don’t wander off too far, girls,’ Daniel calls out. ‘Make sure you are always in sight of us as there are a lot of people heading this way.’
‘Okay, Dad,’ Bella calls out.
‘It’s breathtaking. Even seeing it with my own eyes, it’s like witnessing the impossible. Like the building of the pyramids, feats of engineering that even today would be a challenge. And look at that pillar, I mean so many fragments to piece it back together.’
Daniel nods in agreement.
I stand, head tilted back, and zone out from the people and the chatter going on around me. This was built by people whose gods inspired them to build a lasting testament in their honour. Of gigantic proportions, standing here we are tiny in comparison to the size of even one of the columns. Suddenly I understand what it’s like to live in the land of giants; all those mythological tales you learn about at school which fire the imagination.
‘It’s impossible not to be overwhelmed, isn’t it? This is history revealing itself in a very powerful way. It reminds us that what went before was more complex and intriguing than we can often imagine. The words on the page can never do those tales justice, can they?’
Daniel and I stare into each other’s eyes for a moment, before I reluctantly look away to check on the girls. They’re chatting to a small group of children who have gathered in front of the Parthenon and are looking up at one of the enormous cranes. A guide seems to be explaining how the large pieces of marble are manoeuvred into place.
We continue to stand side by side, watching the girls and letting the undeniable sense of presence this site has, wash over us. I can see the excitement Daniel feels reflected upon his face. I’m glad his focus is firmly on the majesty of the temples, as it allows me to study his side profile. He’s kind, gentle and loving to his daughter Bella. The other passion within him is the sense of connection he feels with history and the desire to bring it alive for generations to come.
It turns out that the Acropolis isn’t the main attraction here after all – it’s Daniel.
The Magic of Athens
I feel like I’ve had an epiphany. Are the Greek gods to blame, I wonder? In a place where emotions have always run high – love and hate, ambition and jealousy – is there a mystical power that is reaching down inside of me and forcing me to face up to my feelings?
We are standing on a mountainous rock, with a panoramic view all around us. All you can see is blue sky and a smattering of cotton wool clouds, until you look down on the city below. Is this the nearest to heaven you can get? I wonder if that’s why the ancient Greeks chose this place to build their temples, despite the difficulties they had to overcome. Did they feel they had been favoured by the gods to have been given such a wonderful place and that they were, therefore, simply fulfilling their destiny?
Daniel is staring at me; clearly, he’s posed a question and is waiting for my response. I pull myself back into the moment, hoping my smile masks a sense of shock as a wave of longing washes over me. Longing to connect with someone and feel loved.
‘Um, sorry, what was that you were saying?’
‘Shall we head over to the walled area so we can check out the open-air theatre?’
Once again, my foot slips a little on the uneven ground and Daniel catches my arm.
‘Hey, steady there. Girls, time to move on. It’s getting hot and we need to head back down, shortly.’
Daniel helps me over some of the larger, quite slippery surfaces of marble paving until we’re on a swathe of gravel as the path curves around to the rear of the mighty Parthenon.
‘Thank you,’ I manage to utter, as he lets go of my arm. All I can think about is that my skin is continuing to tingle from his touch.
The girls join us and we make our way to the, thankfully sturdy-looking, wall which has been erected along one side of the plateau. I spin around and begin snapping away while Daniel and the girls look down over the edge.
‘This was once a military fortress because you can see out over the land and the sea, which is an advantage when it comes to being invaded. In later times, though, it became a religious centre dedicated to the worship of the goddess Athena.’
‘What’s that, Dad?’ Bella asks and I turn to join them at the wall.
Peering over, I see that it’s a sheer drop but because there’s a reasonably-sized ledge the other side of the wall my vertigo seems to be in check. We’re looking down onto the ruins of an amphitheatre. The sound of a team of men using petrol strimmers to cut back an invasion of grass and wild flowers, carries on the breeze.
‘That is the theatre of Dionysus. It’s what remains of the outdoor theatre that could originally seat 17,000 people for each performance. Politicians and the rich would sponsor dramas and comedies, commissioning the famous writers of the day. See how the seating is curved in rows facing the stage? There’s enough of the stone and marble remaining to see the shape it took. This is an amazing view, isn’t it?’
The girls nod. ‘So, it was like going to the cinema, but outdoors,’ Bella adds.
‘Exactly.’ Daniel reaches out and touches his daughter’s shoulder, giving it an affectionate squeeze.
I look back down towards the town and point.
‘Rosie, look! That’s our hotel. You can just make out the roof terrace with the hot tubs in the corner. When we get back we’ll take Daniel and Bella up there and we can all look back over here to see where we were standing.’
‘We should begin making our way down, ladies. There’s a restaurant at the museum on the first floor, if you look over there. See that large canopy? It’s shady and cool; a pleasant area with wonderful views. Perhaps we can stop for lunch before we tour the museum itself. What do you think?’
The girls are enthusiastic and I nod, clasping Rosie’s hand as we follow behind Daniel and Bella.
I wonder what my dear girl would think of my churning emotions? Is it possible to feel so attracted to someone you hardly know? My legs are wobbly but I don’t think it’s the vertigo this time, it’s the endorphins rushing around my body. It’s a long time since I felt this alive and it’s scary.
~
Having climbed up to the highest of heights, when we reach the museum and descend the two tiers of st
eps leading us down onto the walkway to the entrance, I immediately know I’m in trouble. Vertigo threatens to steal the floor from beneath my feet as my legs almost give out. From the first step onto the walkway beneath the concrete canopy, which is held up by a series of massive stone columns, the glass floor beneath my feet seems to almost disappear. I’m horrified as it gives me a sensation of being drawn downwards, as if I’m literally in danger of falling through it.
The archaeological dig below ground level is truly wonderful but my stomach is doing involuntary somersaults. It’s as if I’m on a rollercoaster and being flipped around at speed. And yet I’m as still as a statue, unable to move. There’s no dignified way I can get myself out of this and Daniel flashes me a look, instantly recognising I have a problem. He grabs my arm and almost pushes me sideways onto the adjacent strip of solid paving slabs, leaving the girls standing in the queue.
‘Are you okay?’ He leans in to whisper into my ear, gently letting go of my arm as my legs begin to firm up beneath me. ‘Look, we’ll stay in the queue and you walk along here and rejoin the queue once we reach the entrance doors. The glass finishes there, so you’ll be fine. We’ll head straight up in the lift to the restaurant.’
I smile, weakly, feeling like a total idiot and worried it will unsettle the girls. Thankfully, looking across at them they haven’t even noticed we’re not there and are still chattering away to some children standing in front of them.
‘Go on, you’ll be fine.’ He turns to head back and I try to compose myself so I can stroll along looking reasonably calm and collected.
Once inside the great entrance hall, I feel a lot happier and Daniel insists on paying for the tickets, before we walk across to the lift.
‘You’ll love the outdoor eating area, it’s a wonderful place to sit and have lunch. It’s located on the overhang that projects out over the entrance walkway. A great area for the girls as well, as there’s plenty of space and fabulous views.’ He gives me a reassuring smile and a warm sensation begins to rise up within me. I try my hardest to ignore it and drag my eyes away from him.
My phone pings and I yank it out of my pocket. It’s a text from Harrison. I pop it back into my pocket without reading it, hoping he’s okay but knowing that my head is all over the place and I can’t deal with it right now.
The lift doors glide open and there’s a significant level of background noise as we approach the restaurant. Daniel steers us across the main seating area and out through double doors onto a large terrace. In the centre there’s an oval-shaped canopy supported by modest metal posts all in silver grey, which contrasts nicely with the dark grey marble floor. He’s right, it is wonderful up here, the covered seating area providing a welcome relief from the sun’s rays. The whole area is enclosed by a wall with a chrome metal safety rail above it. It doesn’t obscure the views at all, but makes it a worry-free area for kids to wander and run off a little steam. There are a few children of varying ages chasing each other around as their parents sit and linger over a leisurely lunch. The atmosphere is relaxed, with waiters and waitresses coming and going, while the diners are content to sit back and enjoy the ambience.
Whichever way you look there is a view, whether you are seated, or standing. From this elevation, the Acropolis is directly above us. Like a miniature, so close you almost feel like you could reach out and touch it.
Daniel and I find a table and sit down, letting out a grateful sigh in tandem, which makes us start laughing.
‘Tiring, isn’t it?’ he comments, his eyes following the girls as they look down over the guard rail, watching the activity in the busy streets below.
‘Yes. It might take a little while for my feet to recover. It was wonderful though and thank you for making the history come alive a little. Guidebooks are helpful but they’re so wordy it can often make it hard going. The girls enjoyed it much more than I thought they would and that’s quite something. It’s all a little overwhelming when you get that up close and personal with something so mind-blowing.’
He purses his lips, nodding his head. ‘You connected with it, that’s great.’
I suddenly feel distinctly awkward under his gaze, so I pick up the menu and Daniel follows suit. I connected all right, I just hope he doesn’t realise with whom I felt that incredible connection.
We order soft drinks and a selection of dishes so there’s a choice for the girls. We end up having to call them back to the table to eat, but they don’t sit for very long before asking to be excused.
‘Those boys are from Australia, Dad,’ Bella informs Daniel. ‘That’s a long way to come, isn’t it?’
‘It is,’ Daniel agrees, trying to hide the smile that’s beginning to play around his lips. The girls race off without a backwards glance.
He chuckles. ‘You have no idea how very grateful I am to have your company. Bella and I have been through a tough year in our relationship. It made me doubt that being involved in this project was the right decision to make. Even though it’s been an incredible experience to lead a team of extremely enthusiastic and committed volunteers. I’ve been back to the UK twice to spend a couple of days with her but other than that we’ve only talked on the phone from time to time. Suddenly, out of nowhere she started to get it into her head that when my work here was done I would be going back to live with her and her mum again. I had to explain that wasn’t going to happen and she became very sullen. That all kicked off at Christmas.
‘Our relationship since then has been difficult and she seems to think it’s my fault her mother now has a new man in her life. They recently announced their engagement and Bella was shocked, even though Tricia had sat down with her and talked it all through beforehand. So, I had no idea how successful this visit was going to be. I was dreading the thought that Bella would still be blaming me and wouldn’t really want to be here. It’s a difficult age anyway, as every time I see her something has changed and it reminds me how fast these years fly by.’
He looks sad, as if he feels he’s losing her and not simply her childhood as she grows. I sit watching him, happy to be his listening ear. It reminds me of sitting with Harrison, knowing that talking to a stranger had a curiously safe feeling about it.
‘I wondered whether she had forgiven me for disappointing her and your unexpected visit came at just the right time. Bella arrived here two days ago. We were cautious around each other at first and communication was a little strained, to say the least. I was worried about doing or saying the wrong thing. But look at her now. Suddenly everything is back to normal as if she understands that life goes on, even when we have no choice but to accept change. Whether we perceive that to be good, or bad.’
His words tug on my heartstrings as a mum. The last thing a parent wants to do is cause an upset in their child’s life but the nature of living is that circumstances are seldom perfect.
‘It’s a little easier for me, I suppose. Rosie has no connection with her father and can’t even remember him being around. She’s happy with our life and doesn’t realise what she’s missed out on. But knowing she deserves to have two parents to love her breaks my heart. The pressure on you must have been immense but now, I suppose, knowing that Bella accepts the situation means you can all move on.’
Daniel nods his head, showing no signs of regret – merely relief.
‘Bella’s mother, Tricia, is in Greece now, with her fiancé, Evan. They’re taking a little time alone together after dropping Bella off to spend a week with me. After that I think they’re heading to one of the islands for a few days before flying home. I’ve come to realise that some people are better off on their own. Sadly, I’m one of them and maybe my chosen career hasn’t been conducive to a normal lifestyle, anyway. Tricia hated it when I was away on field trips.
‘But I’m lucky to have Bella in my life and when she flies home I hope we can get back to talking regularly on Skype. It hurt like hell when she stopped calling me. Still, another two and a half months and I’ll be back in York. Hopefull
y I can agree regular weekend access so that Bella can come and stay over. I have quite a bit of catching up to do before the new academic year begins but I’ll have plenty of time to spend with Bella. Besides, it will allow Tricia and Evan to have some alone time together which seems only fair.’
He’s free as a bird … the words pop into my head and I try not to let the little lift it gives my heart show in my reaction. My nerves, however, are jangling like wind chimes.
A Mortal Hero Amongst the Greek Gods
We head up to the third floor in the lift, to view the Parthenon gallery. So far, so good and the pristine floor beneath my feet is at least solid material with no hint of glass.
There’s a continuous bench-style seat running along the exterior wall, above which glass panels extend up to the ceiling. I realise this gallery is what we see lit up at night from our hotel balcony.
‘Notice how the concrete core of the building makes the perfect surface on which to hang the heavy artifacts. This is the home of the Parthenon marbles, as they are often called. They are metopes which simply means a series of marble panels that adorned the outside walls of the Parthenon. Many of the ninety-two scenes depicted were of battles. Some were destroyed, fifteen are on display in the British museum and what you see here has been recovered from the site,’ Daniel explains.
We follow Daniel as he moves on.
There’s a lot to see and the girls wander around, having the odd giggle over some of the statues, many without arms, some without heads and others merely body parts.
A Greek Affair Page 12
