by Matt Siegel
orchids, 94
Oreo Os, 50
Oreos, 149–50
Oriole Breakfast Flakes, 48
overfishing, 14, 181–82
owls, 61n
Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 117
oyster pie, 19
oysters, 23, 49, 51, 117, 131, 187–88
Pabst Blue Ribbon, 101n
pad prik king, 171
pagan traditions, 126–27
pain, 172, 175–76
paleoanthropologists, 12
Panama, 167
pancakes, 135, 158
pancake syrup, 150
pan coatings, 65
pancreatic hormones, 166
paprika, 51
Papua New Guinea, 173
Paranthropus boisei (Nutcracker Man), 11
parasites, 57, 63
Parker, Arthur C., 55
Parmentier, Antoine-Augustin, 180
Parmesan cheese, 51
parsley, 86, 132
parsnips, 86
partridge, 129, 130
Passover, 52
pastries, 122, 135
Patagonian toothfish, 181
pate, 31, 51
peaches, 86
peacock, 129, 132, 164
peanut allergies, 65
pellagra, 69–71, 154
penis water, 81
pepper, 45, 51. See also black pepper; chili peppers
pepperoni pizza, 175, 185
pepper sauce, 129
pepper spray, 167–68
PepsiCola, 50, 139, 154
Pepy II, pharaoh of Egypt, 76
perch, 130
Persia, ancient, 83–84
pesticides, 32, 63, 148n
Peter Pan (film), 176
peyote, 84n
pharmaceuticals, 148n
pharmacies, 149
pheasant, 117, 129, 130
Phelan, Jay, 172, 176
phosphorus, 63
Physiologie du goût (Brillat-Savarin), 2
phytochemicals, 43
pickles, 65
pie, 15–20, 27–30, 33–34, 37–38, 43, 135, 140, 178
pie crust, 19, 27
pigeon pie, 18–19, 28, 164
pigeons, 18–20, 129
piglet, 132
pigs, 125, 135, 140, 151n, 164. See also pork
chicken sewn onto, 132–33
stuffed, 129
pike, 130
pine, 25
pineapple fritters, 51
pink drink, 147
pizza, 13
plague, 181
plaice, 51
plastic, 66, 148
Plato, 52
Pleij, Herman, 135
Pliny the Elder, 26, 79
plover, 130
Pluto, 103
poison, 50, 166, 179, 181
poison ivy nectar, 86
poison oak nectar, 86–87
Poland, 70
pollen, honey sources and, 87–88
pollination, 85–86, 94–95
pollution, 64
popcorn, 60
Popsicles, 102, 111
pork, 135. See also pigs
salted, 128
pork chops, 130
pornography, 42, 157
porridge, 43
Post, C.W., 48
Post cereals, 50
potatoes, 7, 9, 21, 25, 50, 140, 151n, 159, 180–81
mashed, 113n
poultry, 64, 184
POWs, 116–17, 119, 122, 134
Prego pasta sauces, 152, 153
Presilla, Maricel E., 165
prizes, cereal and, 37, 49, 146
Prohibition, 101–2, 122
PROP (6-n-propylthiouracil), 6–7
prostitutes, 46, 136, 175
Prussia, 180
Pryor, David, 68
puddings, 135
puffer fish, 189
Puller, Lewis B. “Chesty,” 114
pullet, 129
pulque, 173
pumpkins, 7, 21, 86
pumpkin spice latte, 148
punishment, 169–70
Puritans, 17, 22
Purity Corn Flakes, 48
quail, 21, 129
Quaker Oats, 50
Quarter Pounder, 182
Quebec, 158
quince jelly, 51
rabbit, 129
rabbit pie, 19
racial stereotypes, 48
radishes, 51, 86
Ragù spaghetti sauce, 152, 153
rainbow sprinkles, 150
raisins, 77
raspberries, 86
raspberry jam, 26
Ratatouille (film), 176
Rational Grazing (Voisin), 115
rats, 167
ray, 51
Reagan, Ronald, 31
Real Life Comics, 71n
Red Lobster, 189
red pepper, crushed, 175
red snapper, 189, 192
refrigeration, 109, 171
religion, 38–39, 43–44, 84, 127–28
rhinoceros horn, 51
rhododendron nectar, 84
rice, 2, 24, 60
instant, 150
Rice Krispies, 49
Rice Krispies Treats, 49
rich, 124–25, 128–31
Ritz Crackers, 102n
rocket, 51
Rocky Road ice cram, 102, 110, 193
Rome, ancient, 26, 74, 77–78, 83–84, 98, 103–4, 124–26
Romeo and Juliet (Shakespeare), 72
rosemary, 51, 86
roses, 31–32
rose water, 131
Rosh Hashanah, 84
rostellum, 94
royal jelly, 80
Rozin, Paul, 170, 175
Rucker, Darius, 144
rum, 78n, 174
Rumsfeld, Donald, 177
Russet Burbank potato, 159
Russia, 70, 180
rye, 24, 78n
rye fungus, 106
Sabottiere, 100
saffron, 51, 93n, 132
sage, 51, 86
Sala, George Augustus, 28–29
Salem, Massachusetts, 22
witch trials, 78n, 84n
salmon, 22, 51, 130, 151n, 188
rock (spiny dogfish), 182
salmonella, 183
salt, 3–4, 66, 93, 131, 165
food preservation and, 81, 128
sambal, 169
Sambia mountain boys, 173
San Blas Islands, 167
sandwiches, open-face, 185
Sanitarium (cereal), 48
Sanskrit, ancient, 5, 164n
Santa, 122, 126
sapa, 78
Satere Mawe boys, 173
Saturnalia, 124–25
sauerkraut, 171
sausages, 112, 133, 135
Saxon rites, 126
scallops, 117
Schiller, Deborah, 170
Schlaraffenland, 134, 136, 144
Schwartz, Barry, 155
scones, 135
Scotch, 31
Scotchgard, 158
scurvy, 154
seafood, 182, 184, 187–88
sea holly, candied, 51
seal oil, 171
Searle, F.W., 16–18, 33
sea salt topping, 147
sea urchins, 182
seeds, 165–66
semen, 77, 81, 89, 173
semolina, 65
Seneca, 172n
sex and sexuality, 39, 85n, 94, 94n, 122, 173, 135–37
shad, 21
Shakespeare, William, 71–72
shallots, 51
Shanahan, Madeline, 126
sharbat, 98
shark deterrents, 167
shark meat, 171
sheep, 13, 167
sheep’s kidneys, 51
sheep’s milk, 84
shellfish allergies, 65
Shephard, Sue, 117
sherbet, 98
sieges, 103, 105
Six-Legged Soldiers (Lockwood), 83<
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slavery, 28, 125
“Slice of the Moon, A” (Shephard), 117
Smith, John, 21–22, 178
Smith, Sydney, 92
snack foods, 64, 68
snapper, 188
snipe, 129–30
soap, 66
socialization, 12–13
social media, 173
Society for the Preservation of the Real Thing, 67
soda and soft drinks, 64, 68, 110, 150, 170
soda cans, 86
sodium erythorbate, 65
Soil, Grass and Cancer (Voisin), 115
sole, 130
Dover, 117
sorbet, 98
sorbitol, 65
sorghum, 86
South Asia, 64n, 170
soybean allergies, 65
soybean oil, 187
soybeans, 151n
soy sauce, 65
space peppers, 169n
spaghetti plantations, 182
Spam, 174
Spanish colonists, 25
spices, 39, 45, 130–31
spicy foods, 170–74
spinach, 51
Splenda, 147
spoon, 37
squab pie, 19
squash, 9, 21, 62–63, 68, 86
Squirrel Brand (cereal), 48
squirrels, 21, 167
sriracha, 169
Stanford University, 148, 155
Starbucks, 147–48, 151, 160, 178
starches, 2, 65. See also cornstarch
starvation, 14, 21, 38, 63, 104–5
State Department, 106
stevia, 147
stingrays, 23
Stone Age, 83
Storch, Henry, 86
Stowe, Harriet Beecher, 27
strawberries, 86, 92
strawberry ice cream, 109, 113
strawberry jam, 26
Strom, Stephanie, 85
sturgeon, 129
sucrose, 165
sugar, 5, 37–38, 39n, 49–50, 77, 81, 99, 108–10, 131, 152, 165, 183
powdered, 135
Sugar Rice Krinkles, 48n
sugar sparkles, 147
sugar water, 2
Sumer, ancient, 74
sun, 124,126–27
sunflower oil, 187
superfoods, 11
supermarkets, 36, 141, 149
supertasters, 7
sushi, 182, 192
swan, 129, 130, 132
swan neck pudding, 130
swan pie, 18
swan’s genitals, 51
Sweden, 6
sweeteners
corn-based, 64–65
grapes and, 77–78
honey as, 73–78
Swift, Jonathan, 73
Symons, Michael, 160
syphilis, 45, 50, 180, 192
Tabasco sauce, 175
Taco Bell, 66, 151
Taiwan, 88
tamale, 68
Taming of the Shrew, The (Shakespeare), 71–72
Tannahill, Reay, 1, 128
Tariff Act (1883), 179
tarragon, 51
tarts, 31, 135
TAS2R38 gene, 6
taste buds, 7
taste receptors, 165–66, 174
tasters, 7
tea, 24–25, 27, 170
counterfeit, 40
tea bowls, 52
TED Talks, 152
teeth, 11
Teitel, Martin, 160
Temple, Nicola, 11
teosinte, 60–62
terrapin soup, 51
testosterone, 173
Teutonic festivals, 126
Texas, 63
Thai food, 165, 169
Thailand, 171
Theocritus, 83
thiamine deficiency, 168
Thor, 126
threat deterrent, 166
thyme, 51, 86
tilefish, 189
toast, 24
Toasted Corn Flakes, 47–49
tobacco, 86
tomatoes, 50, 65, 159–60, 177–81
tomato sauce, 152–53, 160, 193
tomato worms, 179
Torbay sole (witch), 182
tortillas, 60, 69
Toussaint-Samat, Maguelonne, 33
Trainspotting (film), 139
Transylvania, 70
Treatise on Adulterations of Food (Accum), 39–40
tree nut allergies, 65
trigeminal or chemical sense, 165
Trix cereal, 36n, 50
Tropicana orange juice, 190
trout pie, 19
TRPV1 pain sensor, 165
True Source Honey, 88–89
truffles, 6, 45
Truvia, 77
tryptophan, 68
tuna, 188
canned, 190
turkey pie, 19
turkeys, 23, 32–33, 58, 123
turmeric, 51
turnips, 86
TV commercials, 38
TV dinners, 26
Twin Peaks, 145
Ubre Blanca (cow), 115
umble pie, 20, 130
Ungar, Peter S., 12
Unicorn Frappuccino, 151
Unilever, 102
Union soldiers, 106
uni (sea urchin, “whore’s eggs”), 182
unit bias, 37
University Brand Daintily-Crisped Flaked Corn, 48
University of Georgia, 167–68
upper crust, 129, 145
US Constitution, 31
US Department of Agriculture (USDA), 96, 183–85
US Department of Homeland Security, 63
US Food Administration, 107
U.S. Honey Flakes, 48
US Information Agency, 167n
US Marine Corps, 114, 116
US military, 175
US Navy, 167
US Supreme Court, 178–79
vampires, 69–70
vanilla, 4, 65, 91, 93–97, 101, 119, 167
artificial, 96–97
vanilla beans, 96
vanilla crème, 147
vanilla ice cream, 93–94, 97, 100, 103, 109, 110n, 118–19, 193
vanilla syrup, 147
Veblen, Thorstein, 149
vegans, 85
vegetables, 7, 133
American colonies and, 21, 25
appearance of, 158
feasts and, 123
fresh, 141
imported, 178–79
mist sprayed on, 158
out-of-season, 140
preservation of, 128
weight of, 190
vegetarians, 39
Vegetius Renatus, Publius Flavius, 104–5
venison, 23, 129–30
venison pie, 19
Venus, 82
Vermont, 29
Victorian era, 181
Vietnam War, 84n, 105–6
vindaloo, 171
vinegar, 76–77, 89
viper broth, 51
Virginia, 25
virginity, 85
Visser, Margaret, 117–18
vitamins, 37, 157
A, 192
B3, B5, B6, 191
C, 191
D, 190–91
fortification with, 190–92
labeling and, 190–91
prenatal, 192
vodka, 65
Voisin, André, 115
wabi-sabi, 52
wallpaper, 66, 167
Walmart, 192
walnuts, 25
war, 103–10, 113–14, 116–17, 119
Warner, Charles Dudley, 28
war pigs, 103
wasabi, 170, 174
Washington, George, 98–99, 105
Washington, Martha, 99
Washington Post, 182
water, 39
bottled, 148–49
chemicals in, 148n
corn crops and, 63–64
war and, 105–6
watermelons, 86
seedless, 140
Watson Flaked Corn, 48
werewolves, 50, 179, 192
West Virginia, 182–83
wet nurses, 5
whale meat, 171
wheat, 9, 24, 27, 42, 58, 60, 108
wheat allergies, 65
wheat bran, 42
wheat germ, 42
Wheatless Wednesdays, 108
whipped cream, 147, 158
whiskey, 65, 174
White, Ellen G., 35
white chocolate mocha sauce, 147
Whole Duty of a Woman, The, 19
Whole Foods, 181
whole wheat flour, 42–43
Whopper, 146
Wilkin & Sons jams, 155
Wilson, Bee, 79, 85
wine, 7, 40, 45, 125, 131–32, 135, 137, 141, 170
winter feasts, 122–29
winter solstice, 124, 138
Winthrop, John, 18n
Wisconsin, 89
witchcraft, 50, 179–80
wolves, 13, 61, 167, 179
women, 27, 45–47, 58
woodcock, 51, 130
World War I, 103, 106–10
World War II, 103, 113–14, 116–18, 167n, 174
wounds, 80, 186
Wrangham, Richard, 11–12
wreathes, 124
Wyndham company, 111
xanthan gum, 65
xylitol, 65
Yale University, 149, 175
yams, 10
yellow journalism, 48n
yogurt, 8, 118, 191
Youngstown, Ohio, 111
yrchoun (stuffed pig stomach), 130
yucca, 86
Yuengling brewery, 101, 110
yule logs, 126
zinc, 191–92
zwieback, 47
About the Author
MATT SIEGEL has written about food and culture for such publications as The Atlantic, Fast Company, and The Paris Review. A former English professor, he lives in Richmond, Virginia, with his dog, Waffles.
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Copyright
the secret history of food. Copyright © 2021 by Matt Siegel. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse-engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
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first edition
Frontispiece © Shutterstock.com
Cover design by Allison Saltzman
Cover photographs: burger, cereal, doughnut, and vanilla © Shutterstock; ice cream scoops and peppers © Getty Images
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for.
Digital Edition AUGUST 2021 ISBN: 978-0-06-297322-1
Print ISBN: 978-0-06-297321-4
