by Pam Corbin
Sloe gin
Bachelor’s jam
Season: June to October
This is also known as officer’s jam but it’s really not a jam at all. The German name, Rumtopf, seems far more appropriate for what is actually a cocktail of rum-soaked fruit. The idea is that the mixture of fruit, alcohol and sugar is added to gradually, as different fruits ripen throughout the growing season. This preserve is usually prepared with Christmas in mind, when the potent fruity alcohol is drunk and the highly spirited fruit can be served on its own or with ice cream and puddings. It’s not essential to use rum, by the way – brandy, vodka or gin will work just as well.
You will need a large glazed stoneware or earthenware pot with a closely fitting lid, and a small plate, saucer or other flat object that will fit inside the pot and keep the fruit submerged.
Fruit in season (see here for preparation)
1–2 litres rum, brandy, vodka or gin (40 per cent)
Granulated sugar (250g to every 500g fruit)
Choose just-ripe fruits as they appear through the summer and autumn. I normally kick off the pot with some of the first small, sweet strawberries of the season. Place these in the bottom of your pot or jar and, for every 500g fruit, sprinkle over 250g sugar. Leave this for an hour or so then pour over about 1 litre of your chosen alcohol. Place the saucer on top of the fruit to make sure the fruit remains immersed. Then cover the pot with cling film or plastic and, finally, a close-fitting lid.
Carry on like this throughout the summer and autumn, adding raspberries, cherries, peaches, plums, damsons, pears, grapes and blackberries as they come into season. (I avoid currants and gooseberries because their skins tend to toughen in the alcohol syrup, and I find rhubarb is too acid for the pot). Add the sugar each time too, and keep topping up the alcohol so that it always covers the fruit by about 2cm.
Do not stir the fruit at any point, just let it sit in its layers. When the pot is full to the brim, seal it tightly and leave for a couple of months before you start enjoying the contents. Just prior to using, dig deep and give the contents a good stir to combine all the scrumptious flavours. Use within 12 months.
P.S. If you’re in a hurry, you can make bachelor’s jam in one go in August, when lots of different fruits should be available. However, I do find it more fun to add the fruit over several months, whenever I have a surplus.
With the advent of the deep-freeze, bottling has rather slipped from necessity and fashion. That’s a shame as it is an excellent way of preserving fruits – far better than freezing for some – such as peaches, cherries, figs and apricots. These, when bottled, will remain closer in flavour and texture to their natural state. Another advantage of bottling is that the fruit is ready and waiting to be used at any moment – there’s none of that ferreting about in the bottom of the freezer or waiting for a soggy mass of fruit to defrost.
Nevertheless, unravelling the bottling process can seem like cracking a secret code. There are so many methods to choose from – the slow water method, the quick water method, the very low oven, moderate oven or pressure cooker – as well as charts to navigate. To make it easier and to encourage you to have a go, I have whittled down bottling to two basic methods that can be used for most fruits – the water bath method and the oven method. To be successful, both rely on two simple points – the fruit must be sterilised by heating and the jars perfectly sealed.
Jars and bottles
The containers used for bottling are stronger than normal jam jars because they need to withstand a heating process. Two types are generally used (see below) and both are available in 250ml, 500ml, 750ml, 1 litre, 1.5 litre and 2 litre capacities (see the directory, for suppliers).
The jars, lids and rubber rings should be sterilised before the fruit is packed in. I find the easiest way to do this is to place them in a large pan of cold water and bring slowly to boiling point. I then remove the pan from the heat and leave the jars in the water until I need them. The safest way to remove the jars from the pan is with a pair of tongs. There is no need to dry the jars. Alternatively, before use, the jars can be washed in hot water, left inverted to drain, then put in a cool oven (140°C/Gas Mark 1) for 15 minutes.
Screw-band jars Often referred to as Kilner jars, these have metal or glass lids and are fitted with rubber rings that separate the top of the jar and the lid. The screw-band is fully tightened only after the cooking process, to seal the jar and form a vacuum.
Clip jars Often known as Le Parfait jars, these also have a rubber ring to separate the jar top from the lid but are fastened with a metal spring clip. These jars allow steam to escape, but no air can enter. They normally have a wider mouth than screw-band jars and are therefore more suitable for use with larger fruits such as pears or peaches.
In both cases, the rubber rings must be a perfect fit and in perfect condition – so check them before using. They will deteriorate with use and will need replacing from time to time. The rubber rings can either be sterilised with the jars and lids, or soaked in warm water for 15 minutes (this makes it much easier to stretch them on), then dipped in boiling water just before they go on the jar.
Preparing syrup
Fruit can be bottled in plain water but a syrup based on sugar or honey will improve the flavour. Alcohol, pure fruit juice, fruit cordials, scented leaves and spices can be added to give character and interest. The strength of the syrup depends on the type of fruit used and how you like your fruit to taste – the tarter the fruit, the heavier you’ll want to make the syrup. Generally, you want a sweeter syrup for more tightly packed fruit too, because less is used. Syrups are always prepared by simply dissolving the required amount of sugar or honey in water and boiling for 1 minute.
Light syrup 100g sugar, 600ml water
Medium syrup 175g sugar, 600ml water
Heavy syrup 250g sugar, 600ml water
Fruit for bottling
This should ideally be perfectly ripe, but err on the side of under rather than over if you have to. Handle the fruit carefully as any bruising will spoil the preserve. Prepare it by removing stalks, stems, leaves and hulls, and rinsing in cold water if necessary.
Plums, damsons and cherries These can be bottled whole or stoned – stones will impart an agreeable almondy flavour. There’s no need to prick the fruit.
Gooseberries These are best bottled when green and slightly under-ripe. The skins should be pricked or nicked to prevent shrivelling.
Pears and apples These should be peeled and cored before bottling. Pears can be cored and quartered or left whole. Once peeled, place in a bowl of salted water (25g salt to 1 litre water) to prevent discoloration until ready to pack.
Peaches, apricots and nectarines These should be peeled: immerse in boiling water for 1 minute then plunge into cold water, peel and pack immediately.
Rhubarb These stalks should be chopped into 2.5–5cm lengths and steeped overnight in a light to medium syrup prior to packing and processing.
Soft fruits Handle these as little as possible – just remove stalks or hulls.
Vegetables These require a very high-temperature process and are not suitable for home bottling by either of the methods covered in this book.
Packing tips
Fruit to be bottled should be handled as little as possible. Packing the fruit in neatly will mean you can get more in the jar.
1. Fruit will shrink during the heating process so should be packed into jars as tightly as possible, but without bruising.
2. Use a long-handled packing spoon, the end of a wooden spoon or a chopstick to position fruit and tease out any air bubbles.
3. Stand jars on a wooden surface or newspaper when filling with hot syrup.
4. Make sure the rim of the jar is free from pips or fruit fibres.
5. Give the jar a sharp knock or twizzle to remove any trapped air before sealing.
The water bath method
For bottling in this way, you need a pan deep enough to contain the jars completely submerged und
er water. The jars will crack if they sit directly on the base of the pan, so it needs a ‘false bottom’ such as a wire trivet or a folded tea towel. A thermometer is essential to check the temperature.
The fruit should be packed into jars and filled to the brim with hot syrup (about 60°C). If you’re using screw-band jars, the band should be released by a quarter of a turn for steam to escape. Place the jars in the pan and cover completely with warm water (38°C). Heat to simmering point (88°C) over a period of 25–30 minutes, then simmer for the time given in the recipe or the chart (overleaf).
Remove the jars one at a time and place them on a wooden surface, newspaper or folded cloth – scooping out some of the water first will make it much easier to lift the jars from the pan. Tighten the bands on screw-band jars, then leave undisturbed for 24 hours until completely cool. Check the seal the following day (see overleaf).
The oven method
This takes longer than the water bath method but means you can process more jars at a time and you don’t need to worry about finding a deep pan.
Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 2. Stand the jars about 5cm apart (enough to allow the warm air to circulate) on a thick pad of newspaper, or stand them on newspaper or a folded tea towel in a baking tray filled with water to a depth of 3cm. Fill the packed jars with boiling syrup and cover with the rubber rings and jar tops, but do not fasten with clips or screw-bands at this stage.
Heat in the oven for the time given on the chart (see right). Remove the jars, one at a time, seal with the screw-band or clip immediately and place on a wooden surface, newspaper or folded cloth. Leave undisturbed until completely cool and check the seal the following day (see below).
Testing the seal
It’s important to do this after bottling to check that the seal is absolutely airtight. When the jars are completely cool, undo the clips or remove the screw-bands. Put one hand underneath the jar and, with the other hand, carefully lift the jar by the lid. If it’s well sealed, the lid will remain firmly on. You can then re-fasten the clip or screw-band and put the jar away for storage. If it comes away, either reprocess the fruit or eat it up immediately.
Storage
Store bottled fruits in a cool, dark and dry place. They will keep well for up to a year. After this, although there may be nothing wrong with them, the texture and colour will begin to deteriorate.
Opening jars
The round rubber seal on a Le Parfait jar has a small protuberance which when pulled should break the seal. However, it doesn’t always work! So for awkward Le Parfait jars and Kilner jars, very carefully insert the point of a knife between the rubber ring and the rim and gently lever up. If the seal is still difficult to break, then stand the jar in hot water for a few minutes – this will help to release the seal.
Heating times for water bath and oven bottling methods
For safe bottling it is important to adhere to these timings. For the water bath method, check the water temperature with a thermometer; for the oven method, preheat the oven and check the temperature using an oven thermometer.
FRUIT WATER BATH METHOD OVEN METHOD
Apple slices
Blackberries
Blueberries
Currants
Gooseberries
Loganberries
Mulberries
Raspberries
Strawberries
Rhubarb Maintain at simmering point (88°C) for 2 minutes 30–40 minutes for jars up to 1 litre
45–50 minutes for 1–2 litre jars
Apricots
Cherries
Damsons
Greengages
Plums, whole Maintain at simmering point (88°C) for 10 minutes 40–50 minutes for jars up to 1 litre
50–60 minutes for 1–2 litre jars
Nectarines
Peaches
Plums, halved Maintain at simmering point (88°C) for 20 minutes 50–60 minutes for jars up to 1 litre
60–70 minutes for 1–2 litre jars
Figs
Pears
Tomatoes, whole Maintain at simmering point (88°C) for 40 minutes 60–70 minutes for jars up to 1 litre
70–80 minutes for 1–2 litre jars
Fruit purées and pulps (these need to be poured at boiling point into hot jars) Maintain at simmering point (88°C) for 5 minutes for fruit pulp, 10 minutes for tomato purée Not applicable
Early rhubarb with honey
Season: January to February
The arrival of the early ‘forced’ rhubarb in January deserves a salutation of the greatest magnitude and I can never wait to savour its fresh, earthy energy. The blushing stalks, with their tart but delicate flavour, are strictly seasonal, so be sure you don’t miss the chance to bottle a jar or two to enjoy later in the year.
Makes 2 x 500ml jars
150g honey
Juice of 1 large orange (you need 100ml)
1.5kg forced rhubarb
Put the honey and 500ml water into a pan and slowly bring to the boil to make a syrup. Remove from the heat and add the orange juice.
Meanwhile, wipe the rhubarb and trim the ends. Cut into even 2.5–5cm chunks. Place the rhubarb in a bowl and pour over the hot syrup. Leave to stand for 10–12 hours. This soaking makes the rhubarb much easier to pack in the jars.
Using a slotted spoon, take the rhubarb from the syrup and pack into warm, sterilised jars. Bring the syrup to the boil again and pour over the rhubarb, filling the jars to the brim. Cover with lids, remembering to loosen screw-bands, if you’re using them, by a quarter of a turn (see here). Stand in a pan with a folded tea towel on the base. Cover the jars with warm water (at 38°C). Bring to simmering point (88°C) over a period of 25 minutes. Simmer at this temperature for 2 minutes.
Carefully remove the jars from the pan and place on a wooden surface or a folded tea towel. Tighten screw-bands. Leave undisturbed to cool for 24 hours then check the seals before storing. Use within a year.
Variation
Instead of honey and orange, try using 50g very finely sliced fresh root ginger and liven up the syrup with ginger cordial or, better still, some ginger wine. Both natives of Asia, ginger and rhubarb are natural partners. So often ingredients that coincide, seasonally or locally, complement each other in the culinary world.
Blues and bay
Season: late July to September
This recipe, applying the oven method, can be used for bottling the many members of the Vaccinium family, which include the cultivated blueberry as well as the wild bilberry (also known as whortleberry, whinberry or blaeberry, depending on your region). These bushy plants can be found growing wild on heath and moorland in many parts of Britain. The cultivated blueberry also thrives in the acidic soil of coastal east Dorset, as well as other parts of the country, and it is now possible to buy excellent English-grown ‘blues’ (see the directory). The delicate, lemony nutmeg note of fresh bay complements their gentle flavour beautifully.
Serve these fragrant berries for a breakfast treat with thick vanilla yoghurt.
Makes 3 x 500ml jars
150g caster sugar
50ml lemon juice (about ½ lemon)
1kg blueberries or bilberries
6 fresh bay leaves
Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 2.
Start by making a fruit syrup: mix the sugar with 600ml water in a pan and bring slowly to the boil to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, add the lemon juice, cover and keep warm.
Pick over the berries, removing any twiggy bits or leaves. Pack them firmly, without crushing, into warm, sterilised jars, sliding the bay leaves attractively around the side of the jars.
Bring the sugar syrup to the boil and pour over the blueberries, filling the jars to the brim. Cover with lids, but do not fasten the clips or put on the screw-bands. Put the jars, 5cm apart, in the oven for 30 minutes.
Carefully remove the jars, seal with screw-bands or clips immediately and place on a wooden surface, newspaper or folded cloth. Leave undistu
rbed until completely cool and check the seal the following day.
Bottled blackcurrants
Season: June to August
The rich, intense flavour of blackcurrants is well preserved by bottling and I find it very useful to have a few jars on the larder shelf. Bottled currants are delicious served with hot steaming custard, vanilla ice cream or good plain yoghurt. When friends drop by, I often open a jar for an instant pud.
Makes 2 x 500ml jars
200g granulated sugar
1kg large, firm, juicy blackcurrants
A few lemon verbena or scented geranium leaves (optional)
Put the sugar into a pan with 600ml water and heat gently to dissolve, then boil for 1 minute to make a syrup.
Prepare the blackcurrants by removing any twiggy stalks and rinsing the fruit if necessary. Pack the currants as tightly as possible, but without crushing, into warm, sterilised jars. If using verbena or geranium leaves, layer 2 or 3 amongst the little purple-black fruits as you go.
Cover the packed fruit with the hot syrup (at 60°C), filling the jars to the brim. Fasten with screw-bands or clips. If using screw-bands, remember to tighten them and then release by a quarter of a turn (see here). Place a folded tea towel in the bottom of a large pan (which must be deeper than your jars are tall). Fill the pan with warm water (at 38°C) then submerge the jars completely.
Clip a sugar thermometer to the side of the pan. Bring the water slowly to simmering point (88°C) over 25 minutes, then maintain this temperature for just 2 minutes.
Lift the jars out and place on a wooden surface or a folded tea towel. Tighten screw-bands. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours. To check they are properly sealed, remove the clips or screw-bands and lift the jars by their lids. Store in a cool, dark place. Use within a year.
Bottled blackcurrants
Roasted tomato passata
Season: August to September
For me, tomato passata is an essential store cupboard ingredient. I use it as a base for my roasted tomato ketchup, as well as for pasta sauces and curries.
