This soup is adaptable to different fish. In my grandmother’s kitchen it was made from either grass carp or silver carp, but its taste is quite good with striped bass, halibut, flounder, sole or sea bass as well. If grass carp is the choice, use the filleted back portion of the fish; for other fish use similar meaty filets.
MARINADE
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1½ teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon ginger juice mixed with 1 teaspoon Chinese white rice wine,
or gin
1½ teaspoons light soy sauce
Pinch white pepper
12 ounces fresh grass carp, thinly sliced
4½ cups Chicken Stock (page 13)
1 slice ginger, ½ inch thick, lightly smashed
1 head iceberg lettuce, tough outer leaves discarded, washed, drained
well and shredded (yields 7 cups, tightly packed)
2 tablespoons Scallion Oil (page 16)
Mix all ingredients for marinade. Place fish in a bowl, pour marinade over, mix to cover and allow to rest 10 minutes.
Place stock and ginger in a pot, bring to a boil over high heat. Add lettuce, stir and return to a boil. Add fish and marinade, stir, bring to a boil. Turn off heat, add scallion oil and stir. Transfer to a heated tureen and serve immediately.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Dragon Tongue Fish
(SOH JAH LUNG LEI)
My grandmother looked forward to this special treat. As a rule she did not prefer her fish to be fried, but even she enjoyed this crisply fried sea fish. It was always made with the flat, sole-like lung lei. Only a sea fish would do, Ah Paw would decree, because of its taste. It derives its “dragon tongue” name from its tongue-like shape, wide, flat and thin. The way it was, and is, prepared is singular, deep-fried thoroughly, so crisp that even its small fins and tail bones are crisp, like chips, and edible. I find sole to be best for this recipe, but flounder will also do nicely.
1 sole, 1¼ pounds, scales, gills and intestines removed
MARINADE
1½ tablespoons Chinese white rice wine, or gin
1¼ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons Chinese white rice vinegar, or distilled white vinegar
⅛ teaspoon white pepper
6 cups peanut oil
1 extra-large egg, beaten
¾ cup flour
2 tablespoons scallions, trimmed and finely sliced
Wash fish thoroughly, dry with paper towels. Place in a large dish.
Combine all ingredients for marinade and pour over fish. Rub in to coat well, allow to rest 15 minutes.
Dry fish with paper towels. Heat wok over high heat for 1 minute, add peanut oil and heat to 375 degrees F. As oil heats, coat fish with beaten egg. Spread flour on sheet of waxed paper, dredge fish in it to coat thoroughly and shake off excess.
Place on a Chinese strainer, lower into the oil. Deep-fry for 3 minutes. Reduce heat, allowing oil temperature to lower to 350 degrees F. Fry for another 4 to 6 minutes, until fish turns light brown. If fish is too large to be totally covered with oil, ladle oil over it. If temperature is carefully regulated, fish will not burn. Turn off heat, place fish in strainer and drain over a large bowl. Allow fish to return to room temperature.
Reheat oil to 350 degrees F. Place fish in strainer back in oil and deep-fry for another 5 to 7 minutes, or until fish is golden brown and very crisp. Turn off heat, allow fish to drain over large bowl, at least 1 minute. Transfer to a heated platter, sprinkle with scallions and serve immediately.
SERVES 4
White-Boiled Shrimp
(BOK CHUK HAR)
This favorite of both my family and that of my grandmother is called “white-boiled” simply to denote that it is cooked unadorned, and that its flavor depends upon the quality of the live shrimp from which it is made. We ate these sweet river shrimp naturally, as they were boiled, with only the added taste of a simple dip to enhance their flavor. These days live shrimp are not a rarity, and are widely available in Asian markets as well as quality fishmongers. Live shrimp do not have to be deveined; they are naturally clean.
3 cups cold water
1 pound large (about 20 to 22 per pound) live shrimp
In a large pot, bring water to a rolling boil. Add shrimp, cover immediately, return to boil and boil shrimp for 1 minute. Turn off heat, leave pot cover on and allow shrimp to rest in water for 4 to 5 minutes, until shrimp curl.
Remove shrimp from pot with a strainer, place in a heated dish and serve. To eat, twist off head, remove shell and eat with dipping sauce.
SERVES 4
Dipping Sauce
2 teaspoons minced chili peppers
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon Scallion Oil (page 16)
3 tablespoons Chicken Stock (page 13)
2 tablespoons scallions, finely sliced
Mix all sauce ingredients well, divide into 4 small soy sauce dishes and serve with shrimp.
NOTE Shrimp that have been frozen, but not cooked, may be used in place of live shrimp. Those frozen are usually headless, and the recipe weight will be ¾ pound. Shrimp that come with their backs already split and veins removed are known as easy-peel. Those still containing veins must be squeezed to remove the veins. The frozen shrimp are boiled for 1 minute as well, but should sit in the water for only 2 to 3 minutes.
Shrimp Stir-Fried in Bean Sauce
(YUEN SEE CHAU HAR)
It is the sauce from the market that made this dish so special. The brown bean sauce is made from the soy beans found at the bottoms of the crocks in which soy sauce has been fermented and poured off. These beans, ground and pureed, were sold as sauce in the Sah Gau market. Today this sauce is jarred, often labeled Brown Bean Sauce, but just as often, Bean Sauce. There is no difference.
MARINADE
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1½ teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon grated ginger
2 teaspoons Chinese white rice wine, or gin
1¼ pounds extra large (about 32 to 36 per pound) fresh shrimp, heads
removed, shelled, deveined, washed, dried
2½ tablespoons peanut oil
1½ teaspoons minced ginger
1 tablespoon bean sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese white rice wine, or gin
2 scallions, finely sliced
Mix all ingredients for marinade in a large bowl. Add shrimp, mix to coat and allow to rest 30 minutes. Drain through a strainer, reserve marinade.
Heat wok over high heat for 45 seconds. Add peanut oil, coat wok with spatula. When a wisp of white smoke appears, add minced ginger and stir. Add bean sauce and stir. Add shrimp and spread in a thin layer, tipping wok from side to side to spread heat evenly. Turn over. Drizzle wine into wok around its edges. Toss mixture together. If the mix is too dry, add a bit of the reserved marinade. When shrimp turn pink, turn off heat, add scallions and toss to mix. Remove from wok, transfer to a heated dish and serve with cooked rice.
SERVES 4 TO 6
NOTE These may be served cool or at room temperature as an appetizer. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve.
Shrimp Filling
(HAR HOM)
This is a most versatile preparation. In my grandmother’s house it was used to stuff vegetables, bean curd and various dim sum. We also ate it cooked, as small shrimp pancakes or patties. We even ate it as a leftover, sliced and stir-fried with different vegetables, or added to soups. As with other fillings, because there was no refrigeration, this was prepared and eaten in the cooler winter months only. With refrigeration it can be made anytime and, once made, and allowed to rest, refrigerated, for at least four hours, or overnight. Prepared this way, it has an elegance and delicacy of flavor that complements other foods beautifully. It is important to use gray, or white, uncooked shrimp when preparing this filling,
rather than pink uncooked shrimp. The grays hold together quite well; the pinks tend to fall apart.
1 pound uncooked gray shrimp, shelled, deveined, washed, dried,
quartered and chopped into a fine paste
¾ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons sugar
¼ cup bamboo shoots, cut into ⅛-inch dice
2 scallions, trimmed, finely sliced
1½ tablespoons egg whites, beaten
2 teaspoons oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons Chinese white rice wine, or gin
⅛ teaspoon white pepper
Combine all ingredients well. Using a large bowl, pick up the mixture and throw it with some force against the side of the bowl. Repeat 5 or 6 times. (This will make the mixture firm. This technique I learned before I was 10 years old, and it serves me perfectly to this day.)
Place mixture in a shallow bowl, refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight, covered.
Stuffed Mushrooms
(BOK FAR SIU MAI)
1 recipe Steamed Black Mushrooms (page 32), 24 pieces
Tapioca flour, for dusting
1 recipe Shrimp Filling (page 91)
6 tablespoons peanut oil, optional
Dust the cavity of the cap of each mushroom with tapioca flour, to bind the filling to the mushroom. Pack each mushroom with 1 to 1½ tablespoons of shrimp filling. With your finger, smooth the filling, and gently press it down to make certain it will not fall out.
Steam mushrooms for 6 minutes, or until shrimp turns pink. Serve immediately. (See steaming directions, page 30.)
TO PAN-FRY: Heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons peanut oil to cover bottom of pan. When a wisp of white smoke appears, lower heat to medium and add mushrooms to pan, filling sides down. Fry 4 to 5 minutes until golden brown, turn and fry for another 3 minutes until done. If oil is absorbed you may need to add another tablespoon of peanut oil to pan. It is best to fry in 2 batches. Repeat process with second batch. Place first batch in a serving dish in a warm oven as second batch is pan-fried. Drain and serve immediately.
MAKES 24 MUSHROOMS
Pepper Siu Mai
(LAH CHIU SIU MAI)
2 medium red bell peppers
Tapioca flour, for dusting
1 recipe Shrimp Filling (page 91)
4½ tablespoons peanut oil (if pan-fried)
Wash, dry and seed peppers. Cut lengthwise into quarters and remove membranes. Cut each quarter in half, across, to make 16 pieces.
Dust cavity of each pepper section with tapioca flour. Divide filling into 16 equal portions. Using a butter knife, press one portion of filling into each pepper cavity, pressing firmly.
Stuffed pepper can be either steamed or pan-fried. Steam for 6 minutes over medium heat. (See steaming directions, page 30.) Serve immediately.
TO PAN-FRY: Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons peanut oil to cover bottom. When a wisp of white smoke appears, lower heat to medium and place all 16 stuffed pepper sections in pan, stuffed side down. Fry for 4 minutes, until filling is golden brown. Turn over, fry for 3 minutes more, until done. If oil is absorbed, it may be necessary to add the remaining 1½ tablespoons of oil. Turn off heat, transfer to a heated dish and serve immediately.
MAKES 16 STUFFED PEPPERS
Stuffed Bitter Melon
(YUENG FU GUAH)
Bitter melon is widely regarded as a curative food. It has a mildly bitter taste, but is not unpleasant. Eaten alone, pan-fried or stir-fried, my grandmother believed it could combat diabetes. She also used it often as an infusion to make tea for diabetics.
1 recipe Shrimp Filling (page 91)
SAUCE
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon Shao-Hsing wine, or sherry
1½ teaspoons sesame oil
Pinch white pepper
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
¾ cup Chicken Stock (page 13)
3 medium-sized (2½ pounds) bitter melons, washed, dried, both ends
discarded, cut into 1¼-inch sections across and center pulp removed, to
make 18 pieces
Tapioca flour, for dusting
5 to 6 tablespoons peanut oil
2½ tablespoons fermented black beans, washed and drained
3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons coriander, finely sliced
Divide shrimp filling into 18 equal portions.
Mix all ingredients for sauce, reserve.
Dust cavity of each bitter melon round with tapioca flour. Stuff each round with equal portion of shrimp filling, to bulge out slightly on both sides. Continue until all rounds are stuffed, place on waxed paper and reserve.
Heat cast-iron skillet over high heat for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons peanut oil to cover bottom. When a wisp of white smoke appears, add stuffed melon rounds on one stuffed side. Lower heat to medium. Fry 3 minutes, turn over, fry for 4 minutes more until done. You may have to add additional oil to pan if oil is absorbed. Remove cooked rounds, reserve.
Raise heat to high. Make certain there is sufficient oil to cover bottom; if not add remaining oil. When a wisp of white smoke appears, add black beans and garlic, stir and cook until garlic releases its fragrance, about 15 seconds. Lower heat, stir sauce, pour in and mix well. Bring to a boil. When mixture bubbles, add melon rounds, lower heat and spoon sauce over the rounds. Cover pan and cook 3 to 4 minutes until melon rounds soften and become tender. Turn off heat, transfer to a heated dish, sprinkle with coriander and serve with cooked rice.
MAKES 18 PIECES
Stuffed Bean Curd
(YUNG DAU FU)
8 cakes fresh firm bean curd
Tapioca flour, for dusting
1 recipe Shrimp Filling (page 91)
7 tablespoons peanut oil, optional
Drain bean curd cakes over a bowl for 3 hours until thoroughly dry. Pat with paper towels to ensure dryness. Cut each cake in half, diagonally, and with a small pointed knife, cut out a pocket in the diagonal side. Dust each pocket with tapioca flour, then fill each with 1½ tablespoons of shrimp filling. Pack smoothly with flat side of knife.
Stuffed bean curd may either be steamed or pan-fried. Steam for 8 to 10 minutes, until shrimp filling turns pink. (See steaming directions, page 30.) Serve immediately.
TO PAN-FRY: Heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons peanut oil to cover bottom. When a wisp of white smoke appears, lower heat to medium and place half of the bean curd sections in the pan, stuffed side down. Fry for 4 minutes until golden brown, turn over and fry for additional 2 minutes on each side. Add 1 to 1½ tablespoons peanut oil to pan, if needed. Repeat for second batch. Place first batch on serving plate in a warm oven as second batch is cooked. When done, drain and serve immediately.
Traditionally these are served with small dishes of soy sauce for dipping.
MAKES 16 PIECES
Lobster Steamed with Ginger
(GEUNG CHUNG JING LUNG HAR)
In our family. lobster was a rare treat, reserved for holidays and family occasions, but also restricted by the season. It came to my grandmother’s market only in the warmer summer months, usually from Guangzhou. The lobster was referred as lung har, or “dragon shrimp,” because of its appearance. It was clawless, with a big tapering body, somewhat like a giant shrimp. It is still the lobster found in the waters off China and in most of Asia. The meat of these clawless lobsters, often three pounds or more, is as sweet as that of any lobster off the coasts of Maine or Canada. Oddly, when I was a girl, I would help to prepare it, but would never eat it, because I did not like its sweetness. But I really enjoyed chewing on the shells, a taste I still have.
For these recipes, I use the more familiar clawed lobster because it is readily available. Kill the lobster yourself by plunging a knife int
o the underside of its head, or have your fishmonger do it for you. Split it, and remove the inedible inner portion of the cavity.
MARINADE
2 tablespoons Chinese white rice wine, or gin
My Grandmother's Chinese Kitchen Page 8
