Despite several expeditions in search of his body, it has not been found. However, in 1975 a Chinese mountaineer, Xu Jing, told a colleague that he’d come across a body, which he described as “the English dead,” frozen in a narrow gully at 27,230 feet. A few days later, before he could be questioned more closely, Xu Jing was killed by an avalanche.
Ruth Mallory
After George’s death, Ruth and the children remained in Surrey, where Ruth spent the rest of her life. She died of breast cancer in 1942, aged fifty.
Air Chief Marshal Sir Trafford Leigh Mallory KCB
Mallory’s brother, Trafford, died when his plane crashed in the Alps in November 1944, while he was on his way to take command of Allied Air Operations in the Pacific. It was thought he might have been piloting the aircraft at the time.
Trafford died at the age of fifty-two.
Arthur C. Benson
Mallory’s tutor became Master of Magdalene College, Cambridge, in 1915, and remained in that position until 1925. He wrote a moving tribute for Mallory’s memorial service at Cambridge, but was too ill to deliver it. He is best remembered for having written the words of “Land of Hope and Glory.”
Benson died in 1925, aged sixty-three.
THE CLIMBERS
Brigadier General C. G. Bruce CB MVO
Although severely wounded at Gallipoli, Bruce commanded his regiment on the North-West Frontier until 1920. He was President of the Alpine Club from 1923 to 1925, and appointed Hon. Colonel of the 5th Gurkha Rifles in 1931.
Bruce died in 1939, aged seventy-three.
Geoffrey Young D. Litt FRSL
Appointed as a consultant to the Rockefeller Foundation in 1925. Reader in Education at London University in 1932. President of the Alpine Club from 1940 to 1943. Young climbed the Matterhorn (14,692 feet) in 1928 aged fifty-two, and Zinal Rothorn (11,204 feet) in 1935 aged fifty-nine, despite being burdened with an artificial leg.
Young died in 1958, aged eighty-two.
George Finch FRS MBE
Appointed a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1938. President of the Alpine Club from 1959 to 1961. In 1931 three of Finch’s friends fell to their deaths in the Alps, and he never climbed again.
Finch died in 1970, aged eighty-two.
His son, Peter Finch, became an actor. Peter died before he found out that he’d won the 1976 Academy Award for Best Actor in the film Network.
Lt. General Sir Edward Norton KBE DSO MC
Continued his career as a professional soldier, and after being ADC to King George VI was appointed Military Governor of Hong Kong. In 1926, awarded the Founder’s Medal of the Royal Geographical Society.
Held the world altitude record, 28,125 feet, until 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tensing conquered Everest.
Norton died in 1954, aged seventy.
T. Howard Somervell OBE MA MB B.Ch FRCS
Spent the rest of his professional life as a surgeon in a mission hospital in Travancore, southern India, where he became one of the world’s leading authorities on duodenal ulcers. In 1956 he retired and returned to England. President of the Alpine Club from 1962 to 1965.
Somervell died in 1975, after a bracing walk in the Lake District, aged eighty-five.
Professor Noel Odell
The Everest Committee turned down Odell’s request to be a member of the 1936 expedition to Everest on account of his age, fifty-one. That same year, he scaled Nanda Devi at 25,645 feet, the highest mountain to have been climbed at that time. No member of the 1936 Everest expedition managed to reach 24,000 feet.
Odell spent the rest of his professional life as a geologist, holding professorships at Harvard and McGill. He retired to Cambridge where he was made an Honorary Fellow of Clare College.
Odell died in 1981, aged ninety-six.
Lt. Colonel Henry Morshead DSO
The tops of three fingers of Morshead’s right hand were amputated after returning from the Everest expedition of 1924. He returned to India in 1926 as a surveyor. He was shot dead while out riding one evening in 1931, in Burma, by his sister’s Pakistani lover.
Morshead was forty-nine when he was murdered.
Captain John Noel
Continued his career as a professional photographer and film-maker. His film The Epic of Everest was seen by over a million people in Britain and America. His life’s work is preserved in the National Film Archive.
Noel died in 1987, aged ninety-nine.
THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Sir Francis Younghusband KCSI KCIE
Continued to serve on the Everest Committee as its chairman until 1934. In 1925 he wrote a best-selling book entitled The Epic of Mount Everest. All the proceeds were donated to the RGS. In 1936 he founded the World Congress of Faiths.
Younghusband died in 1942, aged seventy-nine.
Arthur Hinks FRS CBE
In 1912, Hinks was awarded the Gold Medal of the Royal Astronomical Society. In 1913, he was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society. In 1920, he was awarded the CBE for services to mountaineering. In 1938, he was awarded the Victoria Medal of the Royal Geographical Society, and remained Secretary to the Everest Committee until 1939.
Hinks died in 1945, aged seventy-two.
MALLORY’S FRIENDS
Guy Bullock
In 1938 Bullock was appointed Britain’s resident minister in Ecuador. In 1944 he was appointed as Consul General to Brazzaville.
Bullock died in 1958, aged eighty-two.
Mary Ann “Cottie” Sanders
After her father was declared bankrupt, Cottie worked as a shop assistant in Woolworth’s. She later became a best-selling novelist, writing under the pseudonym Ann Bridge. Several of her fictional heroes were thinly disguised versions of George Mallory. She married a diplomat, Sir Owen O’Malley, and remained a close friend of the Mallory family.
Cottie died in 1974, aged eighty-six.
THE REST OF THE MALLORY FAMILY
The Reverend Herbert Leigh Mallory MA
In 1931 George’s father became a canon of Chester Cathedral. He died in 1943, aged eighty-seven.
Annie Mallory
Annie outlived her husband, both her sons, and both of her daughters-in-law. She died in 1946, aged eighty-three.
Mallory’s Sisters
Mary, Mrs. Ralph Brook, died in 1983, aged ninety-eight.
Avie, Mrs. Harry Longridge, died in 1989, aged one-hundred-and-two.
Mallory’s Children
Clare
Gained a first-class honors degree at Cambridge University. She married an American scientist, Glenn Millikan. They lived in California and had three sons. Clare’s husband died in a climbing accident in Tennessee in 1947 and, like her mother, she was left to bring up three children.
Clare died in 2001, aged eighty-five.
Beridge
Became a doctor, and married David Robertson, a professor of English at Columbia University and the author of George Mallory. They had three sons. Berry, like her mother, contracted breast cancer.
Beridge died in 1953, aged thirty-six.
John
Emigrated to South Africa, where he worked as a water engineer. He is married, and has five children. One of those children is George Leigh Mallory II.
George Leigh Mallory II
Mallory’s grandson is a senior water engineer working on water supply projects in Victoria, Australia.
At 5:30 A.M. on May 14th, 1995, George Leigh Mallory II placed a laminated photograph of his grandparents, George and Ruth, on the summit of Everest. In his own words, he was “completing a little outstanding family business.”
THE END
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Paths of Glory Page 34
