Slip one CO edge through gap in handle. Whipstitch CO edge to WS of bag, using fold line as a guide. Rep for other handle.
EDGING CHART
EMBELLISHMENT DIAGRAM
Download the diagram for this project here.
Ruby
This purse requires just a few balls of yarn, is quick to knit, and is just right for customizing. I have shown two versions, both worked on the same number of stitches—one is worked in a DK weight silk for glamour (See note), and one is worked in a bulky-weight wool-linen blend for a more rustic feel. The size of the yarn determines the size of the purse. Both are embellished with cross-stitch embroidery hearts.
FINISHED SIZE
Mulberry silk purse: about 11½" (29 cm) wide and 11" (28 cm) long.
Hulda purse: about 14¾" (37.5 cm) wide and 17" (43 cm) long.
YARN
DK weight (#3 Light) or Chunky weight (#5 Bulky).
SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Mulberry Silk (100% silk; 136 yd [124 m]/50 g): #6 Pink (A), 2 balls; #4 Rose (B), 1 ball.
Louisa Harding Hulda (50% wool, 30% acrylic, 20% linen; 110 yd [101 m]/50 g): #8 Charcoal (A), 3 balls; #12 Girly (B), 1 ball.
NEEDLES
Mulberry Silk version: sizes U.S. 3 and 6 (3.25 and 4 mm).
Hulda version: sizes U.S. 8 and 10 (5 and 6 mm).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Stitch holders; tapestry needle; about 62" (157.5 cm) of ⅝" (1.5 cm) ribbon for Mullberry Silk purse; about 79" (200 cm) of 1¼" (3.2 cm) ribbon for Hulda purse.
GAUGE
Mulberry Silk version: 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.
Hulda version: 17 stitches and 21 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.
Hulda version.
Note
Measurements are given for Mulberry Silk purse with Hulda purse in parentheses.
Back
With B and smaller needles, CO 63 sts. Work 2 rows in garter st (knit every row). Change to A and larger needles. Work Rows 1–8 of Lace chart, then work Rows 1–4 once more—piece measures about 2 (3)" (5 [7.5] cm) from CO. Work 2 rows in garter st. Change to B and work 3 rows in garter st.
EYELET ROW: (WS) K1, p1, *yo, p2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
Work 2 rows in garter st. Change to A and work 2 rows in garter st. Beg with a RS row, work even in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows) until piece measures 11 (17)" (28 [43] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder.
Front
CO and work as for back.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Block to finished measurements. Place held back and front sts on needles, hold with WS tog, and use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO the sts tog.
Embroidery
With B threaded on a tapestry needle, work cross-stitch embroidery (see cross-stitch) as shown at right.
Mulberry Silk version.
Assembly
With WS tog, fold bag in half along bottom fold-line. With A threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st (see Glossary) to sew side seams. Cut ribbon in half. Starting at opposite sides of bag, thread each length of ribbon through eyelets at bag top. Knot the ends.
CROSS-STITCH DIAGRAMS
Mulberry Silk
Hulda
Download the diagram for this project here.
LACE CHART
Coral
This lovely sweater is detailed with duplicate stitch—also called Swiss darning—to add color and pattern after the knitting is complete. This versatile treatment gives the hem of this striped cardigan the look of a complicated Fair Isle border. The technique takes a little practice, so you might want to begin with the smaller pattern on the sleeves. Once mastered, it can be used to introduce complicated-looking color and pattern to an array of knitted projects.
FINISHED SIZE
About 32 (34, 35¾, 37½, 39¾, 41)" (81.5 [86.5, 91, 95, 101, 104] cm) bust circumference, with about 1" to 2" (2.5 to 5 cm) of ease. Sweater shown measures 32" (81.5 cm).
YARN
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Thistle (60% merino, 40% suri alpaca; 98 yd [90 m]/50 g): #8 Berry (A), 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls; #5 Old Rose (B) and #2 Oatmeal (D), 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) balls each; #3 Stone (C), 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls.
NEEDLES
Body and sleeves: size U.S. 8 (5 mm): 32" (80 cm) circular (cir).
Edging: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 32" (80 cm) cir.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
GAUGE
18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.
Stitch Guide
Color Pattern (worked in St st)
ROWS 1 AND 2: Work center St sts with C.
ROW 3: Work center St sts with B.
ROWS 4–9: Work center St sts with D.
ROW 10: Work center St sts with B.
ROWS 11 AND 12: Work center St sts with C.
ROWS 13–16: Work center St sts with B.
Repeat Rows 1–16 for color pattern.
Notes
The body is worked in one piece to the armholes on circular needles to accommodate the large number of stitches.
The color pattern is worked in the intarsia method of using a separate ball or strand of yarn for each color area and twisting the yarns around each other at color changes.
Body
With A and smaller needle, work picot CO as foll: *Use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 5 sts, BO 2 sts, slip st from right needle tip onto left needle tip (3 sts on left-hand needle); rep from * until there are 147 (153, 162, 171, 180, 186) sts, use the cable method to CO 0 (2, 1, 0, 1, 1) more st(s)—147 (155, 163, 171, 181, 187) sts. Do not join. Work 2 rows in garter st (knit every row), ending with a WS row.
Work striped garter st and edging patt as foll:
EDGING ROW 1: (RS) With A, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, place marker (pm), change to B, k131 (139, 147, 155, 165, 171), pm, join new ball of A and k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
EDGING ROW 2: With A, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, slip marker (sl m), with B, knit to m, sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
EDGING ROWS 3 AND 4: With A, use the cable method to CO 2 sts, BO 2 sts (1 st on right needle tip), k1, yo, k2tog, k4, sl m, with C, knit to m, sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
EDGING ROWS 5 AND 6: With A, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, sl m, with D, knit to m, sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
EDGING ROWS 7 AND 8: With A, CO 2 sts, BO 2 sts (1 st on right needle tip), k1, yo, k2tog, k4, sl m, with B, knit to m, sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
Change to larger needle and work St st color patt and edging patt as folls:
ROW 1: (RS) With A, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, sl m, knit to next m with appropriate color (see Stitch Guide), sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
ROW 2: With A, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, sl m, purl to next m with appropriate color, sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
ROW 3: With A, CO 2 sts, BO 2 sts (1 st on right needle tip), k1, yo, k2tog, k4, sl m, knit to next m with appropriate color, sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
ROW 4: With A, CO 2 sts, BO 2 sts (1 st on right needle tip), k1, yo, k2tog, k4, sl m, purl to next m with appropriate color, sl m, with A, k5, yo, k2tog, k1.
Following the 16-row color patt, rep these 4 rows until piece measures 9" (23 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Make note of the last row of color patt worked.
Right Front
Note: The neck and armhole are shaped at the same time.
With A and RS facing, work in patt to m, sl m, use appropriate color to ssk, k27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) sts, turn—36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts rem for right front; rem 110 (116, 122, 128, 136, 140) sts will be worked later for back and left front. Work right front sts back and forth in rows as foll:
DEC ROW 1: (WS) Keeping in patt, BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts, purl to m, sl
m, with A, work to end in patt—32 (34, 35, 36, 38, 40) sts rem.
DEC ROW 2: (RS) Keeping in patt, work to m, sl m, use appropriate color to ssk (neck dec), knit to last 2 sts, k2tog (armhole dec)—2 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROW: Keeping in patt, use appropriate color to purl to m, sl m, work to end with A.
Rep the last 2 rows 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) more times—26 (28, 29, 30, 28, 30) sts rem.
DEC ROW 3: (RS) Keeping in patt, work to m, sl m, use appropriate color to ssk (neck dec), knit to end—1 st dec’d.
NEXT ROW: Keeping in patt, use appropriate color to purl to m, sl m, work to end with A.
Rep the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 3, 0, 1) more time(s)—23 (24, 25, 26, 27, 28) sts rem.
Cont even in patt until piece measures 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8)” (18 [18, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from dividing row, ending with a RS row.
Shape Shoulder
At armhole edge (beg of WS rows), BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) sts 2 times, then BO 5 (6, 5, 6, 7, 6) sts once—8 edging sts rem. Place sts on holder.
Back
With RS facing, rejoin appropriate yarn to held sts, BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts, knit until there are 69 (73, 76, 79, 85, 87) sts on right needle tip, turn work—69 (73, 76, 79, 85, 87) back sts; rem 37 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47) sts will be worked later for left front. Keeping in color patt, work back sts as foll:
DEC ROW 1: (WS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts, purl to end—65 (69, 71, 73, 79, 81) sts rem.
DEC ROW 2: (RS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d.
Work 1 row even. Rep the last 2 rows 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) more times—59 (63, 65, 67, 69, 71) sts rem. Work even in patt until piece measures 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8)" (18 [18, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from dividing row, ending with a WS row.
Shape Shoulders
Keeping in patt and beg with a RS row, BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) sts at beg of next 4 rows, then BO 5 (6, 5, 6, 7, 6) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—29 (31, 31, 31, 31, 31) sts rem. BO rem sts.
Left Front
With RS facing, rejoin appropriate yarn to 37 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47) left front sts. Keeping in patt, work as foll:
DEC ROW 1: (RS) With appropriate color, BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog (neck dec), sl m, with A, work in patt to end—32 (34, 35, 36, 38, 40) sts rem.
NEXT ROW: (WS) With A, work in patt to m, sl m, purl to end with appropriate color.
DEC ROW 2: With appropriate color, ssk (armhole dec), knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog (neck dec), sl m, with A, work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROW: With A, work in patt to m, sl m, purl to end with appropriate color.
Rep the last 2 rows 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) more times—26 (28, 29, 30, 28, 30) sts rem.
DEC ROW 3: With appropriate color, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog (neck nec), sl m, with A, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d.
NEXT ROW: With A, work in patt to m, sl m, purl to end with appropriate color.
Rep the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 3, 0, 1) more time(s)—23 (24, 25, 26, 27, 28) sts rem.
Cont even in patt until piece measures 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8)" (18 [18, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from dividing row, ending with a WS row.
DUPLICATE-STITCH CHART
embroidery
Chain Stitch
Bring threaded needle out from back to front, form a short loop, then insert needle backing where it came out. Keeping the loop under the needle, bring the needle back out a short distance to the right.
Chain Stitch
Cross-Stitch
Bring threaded needle out from back to front at lower left edge of the knitted stitch to be covered. Working from left to right, *insert needle at the upper right edge of the same stitch and bring it back out at the lower left edge of the adjacent stitch, directly below and in line with the insertion point. Work from right to left to work the other half of the cross.
Cross-Stitch
Duplicate Stitch
Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the base of the V of the knitted stitch you want to cover. *Working right to left, pass needle in and out under the stitch in the row above it and back into the base of the same stitch. Bring needle back out at the base of the V of the next stitch to the left. Repeat from * as desired.
Duplicate Stitch
French Knot
Bring threaded needle out of knitted background from back to front, wrap yarn around needle three times, then use your thumb to hold the wraps in place while you insert the needle into the background a short distance from where it came out. Pull the needle through the wraps into the background to secure.
French Knot
Lazy Daisy Stitch
*Bring threaded needle out of knitted background from back to front, form a short loop and insert needle into background where it came out. Keeping the loop under the needle, bring the needle back out of the background a short distance away (Figure 1), pull loop snug, and insert needle into fabric on far side of loop. Beginning each stitch at the same point in the background, repeat from * for the desired number of petals (Figure 2; 6 petals shown).
Lazy Daisy Stitch
Shape Shoulder
At armhole edge (beg of RS rows), BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) sts 2 times, then BO 5 (6, 5, 6, 7, 6) sts once—8 edging sts rem. Place sts on holder.
Sleeves
With A and smaller needle, work picot CO as folls: *Use the cable method to CO 5 sts, BO 2 sts, slip st from right needle tip onto left needle tip (3 sts on left-hand needle); rep from * until there are 45 (45, 51, 51, 54, 54) sts, then use the cable method to CO 2 (2, 0, 0, 1, 1) more st(s)—47 (47, 51, 51, 55, 55) sts. Knit 2 rows. Work 8 rows in striped garter st (knit every row) as folls: 2 rows B, 2 rows C, 2 rows D, 2 rows B. Change to C and larger needle, and beg with a knit row, work color patt and at the same time inc as foll:
INC ROW: (RS) Maintaining color patt, k1, M1 (see Glossary), work in St st to last st, M1, k1—2 sts inc’d.
Work 7 rows even in patt. Rep the last 8 rows 3 more times—55 (55, 59, 59, 63, 63) sts. Work even in patt until piece measures about 14" (35.5 cm) from CO, ending with the same WS row of color patt as for body.
Shape Cap
BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows—47 (47, 49, 49, 51, 51) sts rem.
DEC ROW 1: (RS) Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d.
DEC ROW 2: (WS) P2tog, purl to last 2 sts ssp (see Glossary)—2 sts dec’d.
Beg with the next RS row, rep Dec Row 1 every other row 15 more times—13 (13, 15, 15, 17, 17) sts rem. BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows—7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) sts rem. BO all sts.
Finishing
Block pieces to finished measurements. With the appropriate color threaded on a tapestry needle, sew fronts to back at shoulders.
Neck Edging
With A, larger needle, RS facing, and beg at right front neck, work 8 held right front edging sts in patt as established until piece measures 3¼" (8.5 cm) from shoulder seam. Place sts on holder. Rep for left front neck. Adjust length as necessary so that edging will stand up, then use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to join left and right neck edging at center back neck. Sew selvedge edge to back neck edge.
Embroidery
With appropriate color threaded on a tapestry needle, work duplicate stitches (see Duplicate Stitch) according to chart on page 30 to create Fair Isle border around hem and cuffs.
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew side and sleeve seams. Sew sleeve caps into armholes, matching center of cap to shoulder seam and easing caps to fit while aligning stripes on cap and body.
Flora
The hem of this sweater provides a canvas for a sampler-style alphabet worked in duplicate stitch. For this design, I chose to work the embroidery in a subtle color palette, but you could get an entirely different look with bold colors. Use this alphabet chart to embroider names, words, or phrases instead on this sweater, or on any of the other projects in this chapter.
FINISHED SIZE
About 36 (38, 40½, 42½, 44½, 47)" (91.5 [96.5, 103, 108, 113, 119.5] cm) bust ci
rcumference. Sweater shown measures 36" (91.5 cm).
YARN
DK weight (#3 Light).
SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Grace Wool and Silk (50% merino, 50% silk; 110 yd [101 m]/50 g): #20 Whale (gray, A), 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12) balls; #21 Rosy (B), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls.
NEEDLES
Body and sleeves: size U.S. 6 (4 mm).
Edging: size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Tapestry needle; stitch holder.
GAUGE
22 stitches and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.
Back
With B and smaller needles, work picot CO as foll: *use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 5 sts, BO 2 sts, return st on right-hand needle to left-hand needle (3 sts on left-hand needle); rep from * until there are 99 (105, 111, 117, 123, 129) sts. Work 2 rows in garter st (knit every row), ending with a WS row. With A, work 4 rows in garter st. Change to B and knit 1 row.
EYELET ROW: (WS) K1, p1, *yo, p2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
Knitting in the Details Page 2
