Cleansers
Remember the goal is to just clean your face for your next product application. Choose a cleansing oil if your skin is dry, choose a cleansing milk if your skin is sensitive. Avoid detergents.
Bioderma Sensibio H20: A Micellar water cleanser meant to be left on rather than washed off. Good for makeup removal. $15/ 8.3 oz.
Biologique Recherche Lait U: A cult favorite almond oil cleanser with vitamin E, zinc, potassium, and fatty acids. $33/ 8.4 oz.
CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser: A simple serviceable mild cleanser. An excellent choice. $15/ 12 oz.
Cetaphil: Contains sodium laurel sulfate, a harsh detergent, and parabens. Can be drying. $9/ 8 oz.
CosRx Good Morning Cleanser: Contains exfoliating acids. $11/ 5 oz.
Garden of Wisdom Cleansing Oil: GoW has several excellent cleansing oils for a fraction of the cost from other companies. The normal skin option contains olive oil, sweet almond oil, hazelnut oil and rosemary oil. $3.85/ 1 oz.
Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser: Contains rosewater (an anti-inflammatory) and panthenol (vitamin B5) $18/ 6 oz.
Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser: Gentle non-foaming sunflower seed oil cleanser. $82/ 4.1 oz.
AHA Exfoliating Acids
Apply the AHA directly to dry clean skin and allow at least 20 minutes for full absorption.
Biologique Recherche P50 Lotion: A combination of lactic acid and usnic acid, an anti-inflammatory. Everyone agrees it smells awful but it is effective. $62/ 5.1 oz.
Pixie Glow Tonic: A 5% glycolic acid exfoliating toner with a low price point that makes it a favorite. $15/ 3.4 oz.
Sunday Riley Good Genes: A 10% lactic acid product that the internet swears cannot be duped. Also contains arnica and licorice extracts which may or may not actually calm skin. A cult favorite. $105/ 1 oz.
Dennis Gross Peel Pads: A well regarded mix of AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and citric acid). $88 for 30 pads.
BHA/Salicylic acid
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting Liquid BHA %2: Contains a high concentration of salicylic acid to clarify, moisturize, and detoxify the skin. It helps with the appearance of blackheads, enlarged pores, and rough skin. $29/ 4oz.
The Ordinary AHA + BHA 2% Peeling Solution: Effective treatment for acne and fine lines. $7.20 / 1 oz.
Retinol Serums
Use a retinol serum one or more times per week depending on your age.
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum: Contains 1% retinol (hydroxypinacolone retinoate), peptides (including matrixyl) and hyaluronic acid in a time released formula. $88 1/oz.
Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Oil: Contains the best research supported form of retinol ester (retinyl retinoate) and avocado oil. Also contains blue dye which will be visible on your face and fragrance which some people find unpleasant. $105/ 1 oz.
Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinoid: Contains retinol, vitamin C, peptides, and skin calming ingredients in an airtight pump. $56 / 1 oz.
Vitamin C Serums
Look for a product that contains at least 10% vitamin C, in an opaque container, possibly combined with vitamin E since they work synergistically together.
CosRx Triple C Lightning Liquid: 20.5% ascorbic acid. Comes in a dark vial dropper for product preservation. The most cost-effective choice. $27/ 1 oz.
Drunk Elephant C Firma: 15% L-ascorbic acid with 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid in a fast-absorbing base. $80/ 1 oz.
IS Clinical Super Serum: 15% Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) and copper tripeptide. $88 .05 oz.
Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster: 15% ascorbic acid with vitamin E and ferulic acid. $49 /.67 oz
Peter Thomas Roth Potent Serum: 20% THD Ascorbate (the fat-soluble form of vitamin C) in an airtight pump. $95/ 1 oz.
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Vitamin C Serum: A cult favorite. 15% L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and 1% alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). $166/ 1 oz.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum: 25% THD Ascorbate (the fat-soluble form of vitamin C) in an airtight pump. $85/ 1 oz.
Niacinamide Serums
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + 1% Zinc: Can reduce blemishes and supplement other acne treatments. $5.90 / 1 oz.
Glossier Super Pure Serum: Niacinamide plus zinc also designed to calm skin. $28/ .5 oz.
Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum: Niacinamide plus vitamin E. $26/ 1.7 oz.
Moisturizing Serums
Hylamide Sub-Q Anti Age: Hyaluronic acid, copper peptide, and matrixyl. $22/ 1 oz.
Kate Somerville Wrinkle Warrior: Hyaluronic acid, amino acids, and glucosamine. $95 1.7 oz.
Skinceuticals Resveratrol BE: 1% resveratrol and 1% vitamin E. $153 / 1 oz.
Timeless Co-10 Serum: 2% concentration of co-enzyme 10, matrixyl, and hyaluronic acid. $25/ 1 oz.
Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum: 22 different botanicals including some (such as rose and lavender) known to irritate the skin. $135/ 1 oz.
Essence/Moisturizing Toner
Clinique Even Better Brighter Essence: Sodium hyaluronate, glucosamine, and licorice. $66 / 7 oz.
SK-II Facial Treatment Essence: A cult favorite Asian style moisturizing toner that likely does not contain any known anti-aging ingredients, but has some exfoliating properties. $99 / 2.5 oz.
Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner: An Asian style hydrating toner made from astragalus root extract. $18.88 / oz.
Moisturizers
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM: Contains ceramides, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. $15 / 3 oz.
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Lift and Firm Night Cream: Contains vitamin E, vitamin C, and ceramides. $78 1.7 oz.
La Mer Crème de la Mer: This famously expensive cream contains lactic acid from seaweed algae, sea kelp (a water binding agent), lecithin, a natural moisture, sunflower oil and wheat germ. $175 / 1 oz.
Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair: Squalane, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. $98 1.7 oz.
Oils
It is not hard to find an inexpensive cold-pressed oil. Oils are a good category for less expensive products.
Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Face Oil. Marula oil is high in vitamin E, omega 6, and antioxidants. $40 /1 oz.
Caudalie Vine[Activ] Overnight Detox Oil: Contains grape-seed oil and rose hip oil. $50 / 1 oz.
The Ordinary Rose Hip Oil: Rose hip oil contains linoleic acid (omega 6). $9.80 / 1 oz.
Eye Creams
Benton Fermentation Eye Cream: Contains ceramides, hyaluronic acid, aloe, and vitamin B5. $27 / 1 oz.
Mad Hippie Eye Cream: Contains the peptide matrixyl, vitamin C, vitamin E, ceramides, and other ingredients. $25/ .5 oz.
Neutragena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Eye Cream: Contains retinol, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. Not dissimilar to full face moisturizers. $22 / .5 oz.
Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue: Vitamin K may be effective against dark circles. Also contains vitamin C, green tea, vitamin E, and arnica. $100 / .5 oz.
Shiseido Benefiance WrinkleResist24 Intensive Eye Contour Cream: Contains chlorella extract (algae), mukurossi extract (a botanical), and gambir extract an astringent. $60 /.5 oz.
Hand Creams
Belif The True Cream Aqua Bomb: Comfrey leaf and macadamia nut seed oil. $38 / 1.7 oz.
Kiehl’s Ultimate Strength Hand Salve: Avocado and sesame oil, squalene, and vitamin E. $28 / 7.8 oz.
Lip Balms
Aquaphor Lip Treatment: Castor oil and vitamin E. $4 / .35 oz.
Burt’s Bees: Beeswax based with vitamin E. $3 / stick.
Kiehls Lip Balm 1: Squalane, aloe, and vitamin E. $9.50 / .5 oz.
Sun Protection
Alba Botanica Sensitive Mineral Sunscreen: Titanium dioxide, zinc, oils, and vitamin E. $7.50 / 4 oz.
It Cosmetics Full Coverage CC Cream: Zinc and Titanium dioxide, snail mucin, and 50 other antioxidant ingredients in small amounts. Available in many skin tones. $38 / 1 oz.
Jane Iredale BB Cream: Mineral cream foundation in many skin tones. Titani
um dioxide. Vegan. $48 / 1.7 oz.
Olay Regenerist Regenerating Lotion with Broad Spectrum SPF 50: Avobenzone based. Also contains peptides. $27 / 1.7 oz.
SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense: Broad mineral spectrum sunscreen with titanium dioxide, zinc, and plankton. $34 / 1.7 oz.
Supergoop Everyday Sunscreen Broad SPF 50: A well regarded chemical sunscreen. $19 / 2.4 oz.
Masks
There are two very different types of masks: hydrating masks and drying masks. Both types produce immediate results but are not as beneficial as serums for long term facial rejuvenation. Masks tend to have ingredients (such as botanical extracts) that sound more beneficial than they really are.
Do not be fooled by masks claiming to “detox” your skin. Only your internal organs can remove toxins so these masks are not purifying and do not detoxify your pores.
A moisturizing face mask will add immediate hydration until it is rinsed off. They are great after an evening of over-indulgence or a poor night’s sleep.
Clay masks absorb oil. A mask with kaolin (a mineral-rich clay), sea mud, or charcoal will provide a gentle exfoliation. Kaolin is also called china clay or white clay. A clay mask can make your pores appear smaller (but it will not last). A clay mask may also be antibacterial and anti-inflammatory (but these effects also will not last). Bentonite clay (with volcanic ash) is very absorbent and works well on oily skin. Seaweed Masks may contain alginate. When the mask dries it forms a film that feels tightening. This may give the look and feel of lifting but the benefit goes away when you wash off the mask.
It is easy to make masks at home that can give your skin vitamins and antioxidants naturally. The following suggestions come from The Age Fix: An at-home apricot mask provides vitamin A. An at-home pineapple mask provides vitamin C. An at home orange juice and lemon juice mask will function as an AHA with vitamin C. An at-home mask made from coffee grounds and olive oil will provide antioxidants and exfoliation. When purchasing masks, avoid irritating ingredients such as lavender, fragrances, and mints, and remember that most botanical ingredients will do nothing for skin (although licorice is a known lightening agent).
Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay: 100% calcium bentonite clay. $9 / 15.5 oz.
Benton Snail Bee High Content Mask: Snail mucin, glycolic acid, and hyaluronic acid for hydration. $25 / pack of 10.
Dr. Jart + Brightening Infusion Mask: Contains niacinamide, vitamin C, and licorice. $9 / 1 mask.
PureDerm Collagen Eye Zone Mask: Contains collagen (which cannot penetrate the dermis), green tea extract, and vitamin E. $24/ 10 pack.
SK-II Facial Treatment Mask: Like the essence, the active ingredient in this mask is the patented yeast (galactomyces ferment filtrate) as a source of peptides. A cult favorite. $95 / 1 mask.
Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask: Another cult favorite that includes vitamins, ceramides, and antioxidants. $48 / 2.25 oz.
Chapter Five: Dupes
Dupes are products with the same or similar active ingredients in the same or similar concentration as a more expensive product. Looking for dupes is a great way to familiarize yourself with effective ingredients.
To find dupes, begin with the ingredient list. Since cosmetics are not regulated by the FDA, companies do not have to list their ingredients on their product website. Luckily, the Sephora, Dermstore, and Ulta Beauty websites have complete ingredient lists for all the products they sell. After finding the ingredient list, review the company’s product page for any notable active ingredients. Google the first few ingredients and any active ingredients and search for similar products.
If you love a product from a boutique company that is actually owned by a large cosmetic company, you may find a dupe in their less expensive line based on the exact same research and development. The following example comes from The Beauty Brains podcast. It reports that Skinceuticals A.G.E. Interrupter, which costs $168 for 1.7 oz, has the same patented active ingredient (proxylane, a sugar that helps defend against water loss) as L’Oreal Revitalift Triple Power Intensive Antiaging Day Cream, which costs $25 for 1.7 oz.
You may be able to compare products at www.skincarisma.com/skincare-product-comparison. Search two or more products and click compare. If the products have been entered into the site (and the most popular brands are often listed), the site will provide a product overview including price. It will list notable ingredients and notable effects, ingredient preferences (such as paraben free or vegan), and the comedogenic rating.
You can use this website to confirm dupes and also to prove otherwise. For example, if you do a google search for a Tatcha The Water Cream dupe, many people suggest using Belif The True Cream Aqua Bomb. The skincarisma compare products tool confirms that both products fall into the face skin care moisturizers category, however they are not really all that similar. The Tatcha contains sodium hyaluronate and titanium dioxide, which promotes wound healing and offers sun protection. The Belif contains panthenol and ceramide 3, which promotes wound healing and is anti-aging.
Alternatively, you can type a product into skinskoolbeauty.com and they will suggest dupes.
The greatest dupe company is The Ordinary. Their serums and products range from as low as $5 to $18. The products are named after the active ingredient, such as AHA, and its percentage concentration.
The cult favorite vitamin C product is Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Vitamin C. This product, which costs $166 per ounce, has a well-known dupe, Timeless Skin Care 20% Vitamin C Plus E Ferulic Acid Serum, which costs $17 per ounce. Both products are 15% vitamin C (ascorbic acid), 1% vitamin E (tocopherol), and 0.5% ferulic acid. Skinceuticals has a patent on a serum with 5% to 20% L-ascorbic acid, 0.5% to 5.0% ferulic acid, and 0.5% to 2.0% vitamin E with a pH range between 2.5 -3.5. The Timeless serum has a pH of 2.4.
La Mer Crème de la Mer was formulated way back in 1994. Its specialized ingredients are algae, sea kelp, sunflower oil and wheat germ. If these ingredients were worth $85 for .5 ounces then everyone else would be using them and research and development teams at all the giant cosmetic companies would have confirmed their superiority. Most people find that good old Nivea Cream, which costs $6 for 13 ounces, is a serviceable dupe because the products rely on the same base: mineral oil, petroleum, and glycerin. The La Mer also contains antioxidants and an AHA, but since it comes in a jar those products are likely to be destabilized.
The great white whale of dupes is Sunday Riley Good Genes, which costs $105 for 1 oz. The internet is convinced that this product cannot be duped. Good Genes contains 5% lactic acid and has a pH of 2.6, which is low and releases more exfoliant on your skin. It also contains several temporary brightening ingredients. According to Sunday Riley the other active ingredients in Good Genes are licorice, lemongrass and aloe. Not surprisingly, The Ordinary has a product simply called Lactic Acid 5% which costs $6.50 for 1 oz. You could use this product with a licorice, lemongrass, and aloe serum such as Eminence Organics Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster-Serum which costs $56. However, since the lemongrass and licorice root extract are the last two ingredients in Good Genes, and they are not known to have any anti-aging benefits, it may be better to use a second product with ingredients used in Good Genes in higher quantities. The first two ingredients in Good Genes are prickly pear extract and blue agave extract. The suspending oil is squalane. Youth to The People Super Berry Hydrate And Glow Oil is a prickly pear and squalane serum that costs $44 for 1 oz.
Biologique Recherche P50 is also a cult favorite exfoliator. It cost $115 for 8.4 oz. There are several versions of P50, including a 1970s version that is very harsh and leaves most people’s skin red and irritated. The standard P50 has at least five exfoliating acids: gluconolacone (a poly-hydroxy acid that is gentler than glycolic acid), lactic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid and phytic acid. P50 is also known for its terrible smell because it contains cider vinegar and sulphur. The first four ingredients in P50 are water, gluconolactone, lactic acid and propylene glycol and niacinamide. Similarly, the first four
ingredients in Glossier Solution Exfoliating Skin Perfector are water, lactic acid, glycolic acid, and gluconolactone and it also contains niacinamide. The Glossier product costs $24 for 4.4 oz.
Dennis Gross Peel Pads are so popular there are now several versions. The Alpha Beta Daily Extra Strength Pads cost $88 for 30 pads and contain various acids: glycolic acid, salicylic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid and willow bark extract (potentially a BHA). British company Nip + Tuck Glycolic Fix Night Pads Extreme contain 5% glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and niacinamide and cost $12 for 60 pads. Alternatively, natural beauty product Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel Brightening Pads contain malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, and gluconolactone and cost $12 for 14 pads.
Skinceuticals Resveratrol BE contains resveratrol, niacinamide, antioxidants, and vitamin E and costs $153 1/ oz. Paula’s Choice Resist Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner contains resveratrol, niacinamide, antioxidants and vitamin E and costs $24 for 4 oz.
Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair costs $68 for 1 oz and contains bifida ferment lysate, tripeptides, squalane, sodium hyaluronate and vitamin E. Missha Time Revolution Night Repair costs $49 for 1.69 oz and contains bifida ferment lysate, tripeptides, sunflower seed oil, sodium hyaluronate and vitamin E.
SK-II Facial Essence cost $169 for 5.5 oz. Its active ingredient is a patented version of the yeast galactomyces ferment filtrate. This ingredient is a yeast that may improve skin’s barrier and may brighten skin but is not known to have any anti-aging properties. Soko Glam Benton Firmation Essence also contains galactomyces ferment filtrate. It costs $27 for 3.38 oz.
Skin Care Ingredients Page 3
