Total Cat Mojo

by Jackson Galaxy

  Remote toys: This is any toy that can be thrown and that you can play fetch with. It usually disappears under the couch or refrigerator and reappears during next year’s spring cleaning. Examples are sparkle balls, crinkle balls, furry mice, and those odd, geometric rubber balls. These are fine, but not as an exclusive choice.

  Self-activated toys: These are the lazy man’s toys, usually of the battery-operated variety. You flick a switch and the toy does the rest. The problem is that if your “play partner” is a machine whose movements are entirely predictable, the thrill of the hunt becomes completely muted. To a degree, the HCKE ritual is like walking the tightrope between order and chaos. With no chance of anarchy, the ritual becomes somewhat meaningless to the cat. Am I telling you never to use toys like this? No. I get it—you might have had a crazy-long, crazy-busy day, and being able to flick that switch is a good alternative to doing nothing; so long as it’s not the “spinal cord” of your interactive play arsenal, the self-activated toy still has a place in the Mojo-fied home.

  A note on laser pointers: A laser pointer can help you start the engine for play. But I firmly believe that it is limited as a tool. It simply can’t be the through line for ending the game. Why? Because it can’t be “killed.” It is a predatory tease—no biting, no all-four-paw wraparound—just an endless chase. Get that motor going with a laser, for sure; just make sure, at some point, that you switch to something physical that can be “caught and killed.”

  BE THE BIRD: ANATOMY OF THE KILL

  Play is a dedicated activity. The last thing I want is for you to text with one hand and wave a feather wand with the other, or talk to your spouse or watch TV while you’re playing with your cat. If you want the benefits that come with a cat who has executed all of the elements of the Raw Cat Rhythm, then what is needed on your end is commitment. And I’m not just talking about time commitment, like committing to fifteen minutes of play. I’m talking about owning the role that you are playing in the “game.” It’s what I call “be the bird” or “be the mouse.” What would it be like for you to actually be that prey? How would you move in the presence of a lightning-fast, fang-toothed mammal who is trying to kill you? With that in mind, let’s take a look at how cats hunt and, accordingly, how you should strive to replicate prey movements during play.

  First, I want you to pretend you’re a bird.

  If you’re the bird, you’re going to do that subtle, moth-on-the-ceiling movement for a minute, simply hovering, and then you do that thing that gets you caught: you swoop down and suddenly hit the ground. And now your cat is going to pounce. But what makes this a game? Just yanking the toy away and having the bird fly away again? No, you’re going to play dead, and make it so your cat will then bat at the bird to test if you are really dead. Next, he will likely walk away to try to trick you into moving again.

  From there, you might slowly begin to inch along, playing not-quite-dead, as you take faint little steps away and try to get to refuge around the side of the couch. You’re heading in the right direction when you see wide-eyed, rapt attention, tensing muscles, and maybe a twitch at the end of the tail. And then the dilated pupils, the “head bob” as he sizes up the exact dimensions of the kill, and the famous “butt wiggle” right before he pounces tell you that your cat has stepped into that alternate universe. This is when your cat will run at you . . . but then you take off again!

  Now it’s time for you to decide: do you want him to catch you, or is it not time to be caught yet? And off you go again, repeating this sequence—moth-on-the-ceiling movement, wiggle butt, pounce . . . all the while thinking, What are your best methods to elicit that confidence, a.k.a. Mojo, from your cat?

  Personally, one of the things that makes me really happy is when, toward the end of the HCKE sequence, a cat takes the feather from the toy in their mouth, starts to growl, and looks around the room for that perfect space to take his prey. Then he starts walking away, and I give him some slack in the line and follow him. To me, that is the Holy Grail. I have played so well that my cat has slipped into that other world—the world of the Raw Cat. Then I wait for him to drop the feather, and I fly away again. This is how you know you’ve hit Raw Cat pay dirt.

  YOU HAVE ENTERED THE LAND OF THE RAW CAT: POPULATION 2

  This is a generalized list, so now the most important thing you can do is to find out who your cat is. Does she like ground prey or air prey? Is she a lizard hunter or a bird hunter? Can she go fluidly from one place to another? Some cats get fearful of bird motion—they may prefer ground prey.

  HUNTING STYLES REMINDER

  As discussed in chapter 3, cats will generally have a preferred style of hunting, innate to them. In general, they might prefer to ambush from an open clearing; stalk-and-rush from behind cover; or wait to pounce on prey that pops out of the ground. Incorporate these different strategies into your play and see what your cat responds to best.

  TYPES OF CAT PLAYERS

  Speaking of different styles, consider these two general types of players:

  You’ve got your sports car, which is where you simply present a toy, and varoom . . . they’re off! There is no gap. It’s just turn the key, press the gas, and zero to sixty.

  And then you’ve got your Model Ts. You have to crank that engine—sometimes for five minutes—before they actually respond to the toy. But when they do, they really do. And once their hunting mechanism has been cranked to the point of the key turning over, they’re in the game. That’s why we use toys like laser pointers. They’re like those old-time engine cranks on the Model T.

  Cat Daddy Dictionary: Boil and Simmer

  The Raw Cat (and your cat) is a hunter built for speed, not distance. Trying to keep cats running around for fifteen minutes straight during playtime is not going to be practical (unless they are in the kitten-to-teenager age range). It will be not only an undesirable thing to many cats, but ultimately an exercise in frustration for the guardian (who will then exclaim, “My cat doesn’t like to play!” or “I can play with my cat for an hour and he never gets tired!”).

  Instead, approach playtime on the Raw Cat’s terms: shorter bursts of vigorous play, followed by a brief rest period. Think of a simple recipe that instructs you to bring the ingredients to a boil and then allow them to simmer. The only difference here is that in cat play, we will keep returning to a “boil.”

  So, start with bringing the activity to a boil: get them to chase a toy around, burn off some energy, and maybe even get them panting for a few seconds. (During this first boil—and just to get the engine running—would be a good time to break out the laser pointer if it’s your cat’s particular cup of tea.) Then let them come down to a simmer (rest) for a bit. You will likely notice that they recover quickly. They may act bored or indifferent (in other words, like a cat), but soon you’ll easily be able to bring them back to that boil.

  From there, repeat: let them get a little tired, rest briefly, then bring them back up again. Of course, at this point you want to move to a toy that is more truly interactive than a laser pointer—in other words, something they can “kill”! After a few rounds, you’ll see diminishing returns and shorter bursts of energy during the boil. Once you get to the point of “one jump and done,” or when the only way they will engage is if you bring the toy over to them, where it will receive a halfhearted swipe while they lie on their side . . . well, then—your cat is cooked . . . figuratively speaking, of course!

  Cat Nerd Corner

  Preventing Boredom While Playing

  A 2002 study by Dr. John Bradshaw and colleagues tested cats’ interest in playing with the same toy, as opposed to when the researchers presented them with a new toy. Unsurprisingly, offering the cats a new toy increased grabbing and biting behaviors. In other words, your cat might get tired of the toy before they get tired of playing.

  While almost any preylike toy can get your cat moving, try rotating toys to hold his interest in a H
CKE session.

  CATNIP: IT’S A CAT THING— YOU WOULDN’T UNDERSTAND

  We all need a little recreation. For cats, it may come in the form of an herb. There are multiple plants that cats respond to, the most well-known ones being catnip, valerian, honeysuckle, and matatabi (also known as silver vine).

  Catnip, also known as Nepeta cataria, is a member of the mint family. Nepetalactone is the active ingredient in catnip that cats respond to and, in fact, most species of cats—big or small—will respond to it. This response appears to be somewhere between hallucinogenic, aphrodisiac, stimulant, and relaxant. (Wow—where can I sign up?)

  The most common behavior we see in response to catnip is rolling. This rolling behavior is similar to what female cats do when they are in heat, but in the case of catnip, both male and female cats will roll. We can’t really say for sure whether the response to catnip is sexual, playful, or predatory, but it sometimes appears to be all three. Some cats prefer to lick and chew catnip, while others will just lie there, drooling with glazed-over eyes. Meanwhile, other cats get really amped up from it.

  Approximately one-third of all cats, however, don’t respond to catnip—it’s a genetic thing. And kittens don’t seem to respond to it at all, so the response may be related to sexual maturity (although being spayed or neutered doesn’t diminish the response). The catnip reaction is relatively short: just five to fifteen minutes. After that, your cat will typically need a break of at least half an hour to show a response again.

  Of course, the most important thing to know about catnip is how it affects your cat. By and large, catnip appears to reduce inhibitions, which, as with humans, can be a good or bad thing. Just ask yourself the question “Is my cat a happy drunk or a mean drunk?” It’s the same question you would ask yourself about the friend you’re about to spend New Year’s Eve with—just so you’re prepared. If your friend is a happy drunk, then at some point during the festivities, you can bank on him throwing his arms around you, saying, “I LOVE you, man!” and then finding a place to pass out. If that friend is a mean drunk? Then you’d better have bail money put aside because he will most assuredly be starting a fight with someone in the parking lot. This is to say that you need to be able to predict how your cat will act once her inhibitions are down. If a cat already has bully tendencies, then it might magnify her violent nature and send her over the top. Competition for toys might get a bit more fierce, and if she is prone to overstimulation behaviors, those might come much closer to the surface. For other cats, they either become more relaxed, or less fearful (which could then become a problem if they suddenly approach another cat in a more brazen way than normal).

  This is to say that in a multicat home, catnip is at the very least worth trying, but I would always recommend a catnip test run with individual cats first, as opposed to with the whole group. If you have known tensions between cats, or are trying to introduce new cats to each other, it’s a good idea to remove all catnip and catnip toys from the house. Why take the risk? And remember, since the catnip response during a single encounter is short-lived (and multiple exposures provide diminishing returns in terms of its effect), keep your catnip toys packed away, marinating them in loose catnip for even more potency, and bring them out for special occasions. This will enhance your cat’s experience each time, and also provide a positive association when such a thing is needed. (For more info on this, see “The Jackpot! Effect” in chapter 9.)

  FEEDING FOR MOJO

  The HCKEGS life rhythm represents the direct line from the Raw Cat to our cat. That innate need to live one’s life around the hunt doesn’t begin and end as a series of rituals. The Raw Cat (and house cat’s) psyche and body will only be satisfied with the product of that hunt. In other words, the Raw Cat, and your cat, are obligate carnivores.

  My preferred and recommended food of choice for cats is a raw, meat-based diet, which includes all of the aspects of prey: bones, muscle, tissue, fat, organs, and even a small percentage of plant matter, the amount proportional to what would be found in the stomach of the prey they would hunt and eat. Since any commercially prepared diet is not an animal killed and consumed on the spot, there will be some nutrients lacking (for example, those found in the blood of the prey). That said, we live in a time where complete nutrition via raw feeding can be achieved through several commercially prepared choices.

  I get that you might be grossed out by “going raw”; also, not all cats will vibe with the raw diet. Sometimes it’s really hard to get cats into it. In that case, I recommend that you feed your cat a grain-free wet diet. Why is there rice, gluten, or other fillers in your cat’s food? Because it’s all cheaper than meat!

  Nonetheless, I would rather you feed your cat the worst wet food on the market than the best dry; if you want to use dry, use it for treats. For older cats, however, sometimes anything goes. You just need to keep weight on them. At that point, philosophies about food go out the window, so if they insist on dry, let ’em have it. But my bottom line is: wet food is what is most natural for your cat.

  I’ve got pretty strong feelings about dry food. Let’s face it, most people like dry food because it’s convenient. I guarantee that if you’re feeding dry food, there’s a high chance that you’re also leaving food out 24/7, and that does not jibe with Raw Cat logic.

  Why am I not a big fan of dry food? First of all, dry food is often full of carbohydrates. Research has associated high-carbohydrate diets for cats with urinary crystals, type 2 diabetes, and obesity. Sound like something you want to take a risk on?

  Disease risks aside, let’s go back to the Raw Cat diet: prey. Prey animals are high in protein and water. The process of making dry food, or extrusion, breaks down some nutrients in the food. By the time it’s done being extruded, dry food has a moisture content of less than 10 percent. Wet food is about 60 percent moisture, which is much closer to that of a mouse (around 75 percent). You do the math. Cats fed dry food might drink more water to “compensate,” but research shows they still don’t make up that deficit.

  And if you’ve heard that dry food can clean your cat’s teeth, just throw that garbage advice out the window. Even if kibbles remove some plaque (which is questionable), feeding dry food is not an effective replacement for brushing your cat’s teeth or having their teeth cleaned by a veterinarian.

  The bottom line is, if you want to cater to Raw Cat, dry food isn’t the way to do it.

  DESTINATION: JACKPOT!

  There is that moment when you will find yourself opening a lot of cans of food to find the right one. But remember, this is about a relationship. When you start going out with someone, do you have any idea what kind of food they like? No, so you ask them. You can’t ask a cat, but you can present them with choices that fit both the criteria of what is good for them, and what they enjoy eating.

  Which brings us to the importance of variety. The Raw Cat might love him some mouse, but that doesn’t mean he will turn up his nose at the rest of the buffet the natural world has to offer him. Likewise, cats are not built to eat just one thing their entire life. And beyond that, it’s important every now and again to put yourself in their shoes; if you ate the exact same thing every meal for your entire life, I bet after a certain point you’d become “finicky” as well.

  The good news is that, if there’s one thing we don’t lack in today’s burgeoning cat market, it’s variety. For relatively little money, you can experiment with different proteins, textures, preparations, and variations that will inevitably lead you to your cat’s gastronomical sweet spot. It comes down to due diligence. There are pâtés, shreds, chunks, and every stop in between. Maybe your cat prefers “roasted” or “grilled”—or you suddenly realize your cat loves spinach. There are hundreds of choices out there, and I can’t stress enough the importance of finding what makes your cat yell, “Jackpot!”

  Also, as a veteran of animal sheltering, I want to alert you to something that I hope never happ
ens, but we need to be prepared for it: if your cat eats only one thing his entire life, and something happens to you, more often than not that spells trouble for him and those who need to care for him. If he ends up in a shelter or rescue situation, the combination of stress and his very limited palate provides an opening for a form of anorexia. In essence, consistently challenging your cat from a dietary perspective, and opening him up to new tastes and textures, is not only good for him but, in a way, helps to prepare your cat for different life challenges and changes.

  Transitioning to the Raw Cat Diet

  For some cats, the raw diet is like coming home. I recommend you try introducing it as a treat at first, and see if your cat goes for it.

  If your cat is already on a wet food diet, you can also transition her to raw by mixing in a little bit of the new raw food with what she currently eats. In general, you don’t want to switch her food too fast or you could have explosive diarrhea all over the house. (Fun for the entire family!)

  Some cats do best if you start with browning the raw food for under a minute to strengthen the smell, which will increase your cat’s interest (and bring the food up to its prey’s average body temperature). Some cats like it if you add a small amount of water to their food to give it a little “gravy.” You can even sprinkle some dehydrated meat on the top to get your cat started. Once she gets the hang of it, you may not need to incorporate these “tricks” to get her to go for it.