Total Cat Mojo
Page 32
In other words, when it comes to litterbox issues, there are simply no stock, one-size-fits-all solutions that I can pull out of my magic bag and hand to you. If there were, I would use them myself—every time.
Instead, I show up for work. Using the same toolbox I gave you (well, guitar case for me), the same tools, and the fine Total Cat Mojo tradition of cat Detectivism, I still have to work through the “process of elimination” to try to piece together clues at the scene of the crime. After twenty years of doing this, it remains a challenge, and I still have to return to the proverbial drawing board sometimes, reassess the data, and try, try again.
Of course, the good news is that there is help to be had. Solutions are there for you. THE most important part of this chapter—and the fine art of litterbox issue resolution as a whole—is not the fix itself. The most important part is taking the journey with your cat family that I take every day of my life—the journey from question mark to period. It begins with discovering unhappy surprises in the form of pee, poop, or both—somewhere besides where they are supposed to be—and coming completely unglued, suddenly drowning in frustration and helplessness. And it ends with knowing why.
Now, bear with me. . . . I believe that if I gave you one magical direction and it worked, you’d be worse off. It’s like how I, along with probably 50 percent of the male species, fix any household thing that breaks with duct tape. So now my sink doesn’t leak anymore. Despite my boasting to the contrary, I didn’t fix anything. I now just have a broken sink wrapped in duct tape.
So, as we go through this chapter, even though you will actually have ample opportunity, I’m asking you to step away from the duct tape. Show up for your cat and yourself by doing the actual work. Remember, the pee (or poop, or both) isn’t the problem—it’s a symptom. Holding the root of the dis-ease in the palm of your hand is the goal. Then you’ll address the symptoms, and you’ll gain the key to the Cat Mojo kingdom along the way.
THE PROCESS OF ELIMINATION
I want to stay as true to my actual process as I can with you. If I came to your home and the only information at my disposal was that there was a litterbox issue, this is where we would begin. It’s safe to say that you have a very real sense of urgency about the situation—after all, you called in a professional to help, and to some degree or another, your home and your family’s sanity are both taking a hit. My sense of urgency comes from the fact that, as I mentioned earlier, any extracurricular litterbox incident is a symptom of a cat’s dis-ease; there is some suffering going down, and resolving it ASAP is the goal. So the process here is to start in the shallowest part of the investigative waters and begin to wade in.
The goal is to strike pay dirt in the shallows, which is to say, find solutions in the place where Detectivism is done with broad strokes. In many cases, we can not only wrap up the issue pretty quickly but also prevent it from returning because it was an open-and-shut case. It may be, however, that the problem doesn’t fit neatly into a category, or it’s more deeply entrenched, or both. In that case, we just go into deeper waters. Then the only thing you’ll need in that case is patience, because the deep water tools will be here for you as well.
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. The Process of Elimination always begins with the “Why?”
LITTERBOX PROBLEMS: THE BIG WHY
I group litterbox issues into three primary umbrella categories. They are:
Territorial Stress: In Mojo-centric thinking, it would stand to reason that most litterbox issues have a territorial component to them. Whether the threat is real or perceived matters little; as we’ve seen with so many other problems that we’ve addressed, if the Mojo is missing, there will be some pissing.Included under this category would be:
Threats from within: Broken or nonexistent relationships (either with other animals or humans) as well as changes in the established rhythm of the territory or the territory itself will threaten the Mojo balance.
Threats from without: A feeling that the threat is causing the territory to shrink from the outside in.
Litterbox Aversion: Here, the choice is not to eliminate in strategic places outside of the box, but rather, to eliminate anyplace else but the litterbox. Physical issues, trauma of various shapes and sizes, preference in design or substrate, or issues with other inhabitants of the territory can all contribute.
Medical Issues: There can be a number of physical maladies that trigger eliminating outside the litterbox. Left untreated, many of these can lead to, or serve as an indication of, more serious health risks. (Of course, I should point out here that I always recommend a visit to the vet—without fail—at the first sign of any litterbox issues. More on this in a moment.)
With these three issues in mind, let’s now proceed to the fastest path to resolution.
STARTING WITH THE “WHERE”
The fastest track I know to take an educated shot at a solution is to consider location first.
Perimeter
Where it is: Against exterior walls, under windows, around doors that lead outside (including the door that leads to the garage).
Why it’s likely happening: Territorial Stress. If your cat is “perimeter marking”—that is, targeting the perimeter of the house—this typically indicates territorial stress, a Napoleonic response to a perceived threat. Something is coming at him from outside, usually other cats: “This is my castle, so I’m building a moat.”
How to fix it: Barbarians at the Gate—See chapter 18 (page 317) on identifying the exterior threat and what to do to restore balance.
Other info: In most cases, it would be spraying, as opposed to peeing. The key distinction is that peeing is what you’re used to seeing, and spraying (or marking) is when they back up to a vertical surface and blast away.
Middle of the Room
Where it is: On the floor but away from the walls, either in the open or under a table or chair.
Why it’s likely happening: Territorial Stress. It’s likely that your cat is living in fear of somebody in the house and is being bullied. Being under the table, for example, gives him a 360-degree view of the entire room. He can pee someplace where he knows that in Cat Chess terms, he won’t get checkmated while he’s trying to pee.
How to fix it: Check out Bullies and Victims in chapter 14 (page 276).
Catification tips: Make sure litterboxes have multiple exits, and don’t give your cats a covered box with the only opening facing the wall. In other words, avoid dead ends and ambush zones!
Bathroom
Where it is: In the bathtub or sink.
Why it’s likely happening: Litterbox Aversion. Most often, it has something to do with the substrate itself. Bottom line is that the tub and sink are cool, smooth surfaces. The litter does not feel good on their paws, so they go for something smoother. Of course, this may lead to Medical Issues. This is a behavior I so often see in declawed cats because they are experiencing an associative/phantom pain, or because they’re older and arthritis has set in either in or around their paws.
How to fix it: For this situation, or any time a cat has formed a negative association with a litterbox, it’s possible for a new relationship to be built. See “Reintroduction to the Litterbox” later in this chapter.
Personal Belongings
Where it is: On the personal belongings of someone in the household, like clothing, a purse, shower mat, or even a baby crib.
Why it’s likely happening: Territorial Stress. This is often the result of what I call Critical Mass. Most often seen in multianimal homes, your cat’s inner Napoleon comes out as the family grows by one more being—animal or human. Whether it’s a foster, an adoption, the birth of a baby, or a new boyfriend or girlfriend who starts spending the night, he decides enough is enough. He feels territorially threatened and claustrophobic and has to make a land grab. And he does it by planting a flag made of pee in belongings with the new being’s
scent strongly in them.
How to fix it: This is a territorial cry for help, as many of these extreme behaviors are. First things first: decrease the pee by increasing the space; go back and read chapter 8 on Catification. Also, read up on the nature of your Napoleon Cat (page 58). Finally, in chapter 19, we talked about the Santa Claus Effect (page 327), which is basically all about getting the “targeted person” back in the good graces of the peeing cat, so that a positive new association can be made. Conversely, now is the time to step away from the perceived emotions of the story line. In other words, it is at times like this that we decide the cat hates (fill in the blank). But in reality, it’s what he feels insecure and anxious about, not who he hates, is jealous of, etc.
Doorways
Where it is: In or near doorways within the house, connecting rooms to hallways, etc.
Why it’s likely happening: Territorial Stress. As I’ve always said about Catification, if you don’t have enough in the way of signposts, the insecure cats will compensate with graffiti, literally “tagging” places with urine to signify that they own the area or the area past the doorway (and yes, in true tagging fashion, this will be done via spraying instead of just urinating on the floor, but there are always exceptions).
How to fix it: Catification, first and foremost. Make sure there are enough signposts throughout these areas, not just in the doorways but in the area through the doors that apparently is significant for the cat to overown. Also, this may call for heavy-duty scent soakers instead of just beds, etc. Putting a scratching post near the pee spot, or ideally a litterbox, will help matters. Don’t forget, tagging is a symptom of anti-Mojo. Detectivism is called for to get to the root of the problem, beyond the quick fix.
Major Furniture Pieces
Where it is: Beds, couches, chairs: major human scent soakers.
Why it’s likely happening: Territorial Stress. Most often misinterpreted as “He hates me since he pees on my side of the bed!” Think of this as the backhanded compliment. When home, like it or not, we will be in or around two scent soakers more than any others—the couch and our bed. Your cat peeing in those spots is the opposite side of the Mojo coin from a Mojito’s gesture of rubbing up against you or your belongings, leaving his scent on it. This does the job also, but from a completely insecure place. As opposed to “I love and own you,” this says “I love you and I’m desperate to own you (because someone else does or I’m afraid they are going to). Similarly, we will see land grabs like this when there is intercat animosity afoot.
How to fix it: Go back and reread the section on Napoleon Cats (page 58) to see which aspect resonates with your cat in your home, and use the tools to build up that Mojo. Catification always helps diffuse situations like this. Also, use the No/Yes technique from page 147 with the “no” being that piece of furniture and “yes” being scent soakers next to it, like beds, cat trees, and scratchers.
Additional note: Just remember that with objects of a distinct texture, there could always be elements of Medical Issues and/or Litterbox Aversion. If a quick pass through this fix doesn’t take, explore the other paths before moving on.
Cat Furniture
Where it is: Major cat scent soakers, i.e., cat beds, towers, perches, and scratching posts.
Why it’s likely happening: Territorial Stress. This is classic anti-Mojo graffiti. There is usually competition, or the perception of it, on the part of the culprit. This competition could be with other cats or dogs (and sometimes kids). Besides just being an expression of overownership, a classic Napoleon maneuver, it can also be a desperate Wallflower move as she perceives that every other valuable piece of property has been taken or kept from her.
How to fix it: Go back to chapter 5 and read up on our cat archetypes. Fixing the problem begins and ends with knowing where the anxiety originates, not just which cat is doing it.
More high-value scent soakers can also help. Clearly the target has value either because of its location, texture, or popularity. Let the cats know that there are plenty of similar pieces they can own as well. If there is aggression between animals in the home, also consider the reintroduction technique outlined in chapter 14.
Vertical Surfaces
Where it is: Tables, stoves, countertops, etc.
Why it’s likely happening: Territorial Stress. As with any of these locations, there can be many factors at play, but in this case, it usually happens in a classic bully/victim scenario. Either the victim doesn’t feel safe on the floor and/or in the litterbox because she is constantly getting ambushed and chased, or she is on the losing side of Cat Chess checkmate. The victim/Wallflower goes vertical to get a better lay of the land so she can finally go in peace . . . OR she is chased vertically and pees/poops because, in part, it was scared out of her.
How to fix it: Clearly a 911. Separate the warring parties and begin the complete reintroduction technique from chapter 14.
Extra note: Other signs of territorial stress that don’t necessarily have to do with the verticality of the location: (a) when the pee or poop happens in a trail and not just in one place; as the victim is being chased (or is running because she was ambushed and assumed she was being chased), she will just release her bladder or bowels or both as she runs; (b) a mix of hair with the excrement tells us that a fight was happening and bladder and/or bowels were voided during it.
Near Litterbox
Where it is: Within two feet of the litterbox.
Why it’s likely happening: Litterbox Aversion or Medical Issue. Again, this is one of those things that as soon as I see it, I know what’s going on. Of course, I’ve been wrong, but with this one, not so often. When there is a negative association with the box itself (most often because there is a pain issue involved with eliminating), the cat in question doesn’t think to himself, “Damn, it hurts when I pee.” He thinks, “This place hurts me.” And with that logic, why go back? He knows that’s where he should go, so he gets as close as possible. This also goes for cats who have started the habit of eliminating while standing so close to the edge of the box that the poop or pee winds up on the floor. Same avoidance.
How to fix it: See the Back to Basics section up next for the surface preference part of the equation. Also, this is a reminder once again to get to the vet to make sure that while we are working a behavioral track, your cat is not “raising the yellow flag.” Once a diagnosis is made, then see litterbox reintroduction tips later in this chapter (page 343) as well.
BACK TO BASICS
If you didn’t have much resolution from starting with the “Where,” no worries. This is a process, after all, so we forge ahead. Next stop? The basics. First, review our Ten Litterbox Commandments and make sure you’re on board with the lot of them. I’ve seen litterbox issues go away immediately just from the implementation of one of these suggestions.
Cat Daddy’s Ten Litterbox Commandments—Quick View
(See the full explanations of the commandments in chapter 8, page 124.)
Thou Shalt Have One Box Per Cat + 1
There should be one litterbox for every cat in the house—plus one extra. For example, if you have two cats, you’ll want three litterboxes, etc.
Thou Shalt Have Multiple, Well-Placed Stations
The boxes should be located where they work best for your cat, not you.
Thou Shalt Not Camouflage the King of Scent Soakers
I only recommend unscented litter, with no deodorizers in the litter, and no air fresheners right next to the box. Same thing goes for other forms of camouflaging—that is, disguising your box as a potted plant, etc.
Thou Shalt Observe the Law of Litter Common Sense
When keeping Raw Cat preferences in mind, litter common sense calls for the simplest choice. The fancier the substrate, the more that can go wrong.
Thou Shalt Not Mindlessly Fill the Box
Overfilling the box is a common problem simply
because we think that more of a good thing will just make it a better thing. Not true. Try starting with just an inch or two of litter and adjust from there.
Thou Shalt Honor the Right Box
The box should be attractive and convenient—in other words, a friendly place that your cat won’t think twice about getting into. The length of the litterbox should be at least 1.5 times the body length of your cat.
Thou Shalt Not Cover
Lids can lead to ambush zones and dead ends, especially in a home with dogs, kids, or other cats. Covers can get pretty nasty after repeated use and are hard to clean. Also, long-haired or larger cats can get a static shock from touching the sides of the hood as they enter or exit.
Thou Shalt Not Use a Liner
You might think that liners make your life a bit more convenient, but in reality, many cats don’t like the texture of liners and can even get their claws stuck in them.
Thou Shalt Keep the Litterbox Clean
Cats unquestionably prefer a clean box to one that contains clumps of pee or poo logs.
Thou Shalt Allow Your Cat to Covet Another Box
The best way to find out what your cat likes in a litterbox is to give him choices (of size, style, location, types of litter), track what he uses, and adjust accordingly.