by Cherie Burns
I count on my daughter, Jessie Duncan, for honest feedback, and as always I must thank my husband, Dick Duncan, who keeps me on the journalistic straight and narrow and picks me up when I stumble.
Notes
Chapter 4
1. Vivienne Becker, author of The Impossible Collection of Jewelry (New York, Assouline 2013). Interview with author.
Chapter 5
1. Françoise Cailles, René Boivin: Jeweller (London, Quartet Books, 1994), p. 6.
2. Ibid, p. 11.
3. Roger Shattuck, The Banquet Years (New York, Vintage Books, 1968), p. 5.
4. Nazanin Lankarani, “An Unsigned Iconoclast of 20th Century Design,” New York Times, December 10, 2010.
5. David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery (Woodbridge, Suffolk, England, Antique Collectors’ Club Ltd., 1989), p. 251.
6. Cailles, p. 37.
Chapter 7
1. Cailles, p. 58.
2. Ibid, p. 68.
3. Ibid, p. 56.
4. Ibid, p. 85.
5. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Chabanais
Chapter 8
1. In fact, it was 2006.
Chapter 10
1. Bennet and Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, p. 251.
Chapter 19
1. Sam Loxton, foreword to No Stone Unturned by Claudine Seroussi Bretagne (Lucas Parities, London, 2012).
2. The Swiss franc and U.S. dollar were close in value.
Index
The index that appeared in the print version of this title does not match the pages in your e-book. Please use the search function on your e-reading device to search for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed below.
A
Abdallah, Naguib
Abeles, Susan
Berj Zavian and
Jennifer Tilly’s starfish and
jewelers as wolves and
Murray Mondschein and
aigrette
Alexandra (Queen of England)
amethysts
Antiques Roadshow
aquamarine and emerald starfish
archives (Belperron)
archives (Boivin)
authentication and
existence of
Nathalie Hocq and
ownership of
sales records, design orders and
secrecy and
Argyll (Duchess of)
art, comparison of jewelry to
Art Deco
Art Loss Register
Art Nouveau
articulated jewelry, popularity of
articulated rays
description of
as distinguishing features
Juliette Moutard and
reproductions and
of Rogers’ starfish
Susan Rotenstreich and
Artifacts (website)
Asprey
assay marks
authentication and
confusion over
later addition of
on later starfish
rationale for lack of
Susan Rotenstreich’s starfish and
attachment
auction houses
authentication
assay marks and
Boivin archives and
Francoise Cailles and
importance of
valuation and
avant-garde
B
baguettes
Baker, Henry
Jackie Ramos and
Millicent Rogers’ starfish and
Baker, Josephine
Balcom, Ronnie
Bamps, Véronique
Barkin, Ellen
Baroin, Olivier
Bass, Mercedes
Becker, Vivienne
Belle Epoque
Belperron, Suzanne
archives of
description of
starfish of
success of
work of
belt buckle
Bentley & Skinner
Bergé, Pierre
Bernard, Jacques
Bernhardt, Sarah
Bernstein, Bob and Helen
bestiaries
Biehler, Dominik
Bismarck, Mona
blood, identification by
Boivin, Germaine
Boivin, Jeanne
after departure of Belperron
designs of
encouragement from
success of
Boivin, Pierre
Boivin, René
Boivin jewelry salon
description of
success of
workmanship, design and
Bolkiah, Jefri
Bonnard, Pierre
Borrusco, Alessandro
Bos, Natalie
brands
brooches
Brown, Helen Gurley
Brun, Jean Pierre
Buckley, Lorian
Bulgari brooch
Burma
Burton, Richard
Burton, Stephen
butterflies
C
cabochon rubies
Cailles, Françoise
on attachment
authentication and
on authorship of individual pieces
book written by
expertise of
lack of help from
meeting with
on role of Boivin
on starfish sold in April 1996
Cailles, Perinet
Callies, Pierre
carats
Cartier
Caslin, Colleen
catalogue notes
Catherine the Great
cats
Ceylon rubies
Chambre, Frédéric
chameleon pieces
Chanel, Coco
chasing
Chassard, Alain
Chassard, Emanuelle
Chervin, André
Chervin, Sylvain
Choay, Nathalie Hocq. See Hocq, Nathalie
Christie’s
Cluster Jewelry
Cocteau, Jean
codes
Cohen, Abe
Cohen, Claudia
Colbert, Claudette
description of
design and
Colbert’s starfish
final owner of
as first one
loss of
undetermined fate of
Colette (writer)
confidentiality. See also Secrecy
Cooper, Diana
copies (newer starfish)
distinguishing
elastomer and
licensing and
at Magnificent Jewelry sale
Murray Mondschein and
Nathalie Hocq and
rules governing
value of
Corbin, Marie
Corrente, Judith-Ann
counterfeits. See also Reproductions
Crawford, Joan
Cummings, Joanne
Cummings, Nathan
Curiel, Francois
czars, jewelry of
D
Dalí, Salvador
David Webb
Davière, Robert
Davis, Sarah
Day, Doris
De Beers
de Brosses, Marie Caroline
de la Renta, Annette
de la Renta, Oscar
de Vilmorin, Louise
dealers
Deep Throat
description of Boivin starfish
design
importance of
process of
devant-de-corsages
di Verdura, Fulco
Dietz, Ulysses
Downton Abbey
Duncan, Isadora
E
Edwards, Peter
Egyptian tombs
e
lastomer
Ellsworth, Robert Hatfield
Emanuel, Mark
emerald and aquamarine starfish
emerald and sapphire starfish
Ernst Färber
Esmerian, Ralph
Jean Pierre Brun and
later starfish and
Murray Mondschein and
Saõ Schlumberger and
estate jewelry
F
fabrication
Fellowes, Daisy
Fellowes, Reginald
Feuerman, Stephen. See also Stephen Russell jewelry salon
Fisher, Eddie
flamingo brooch
flappers
Flato, Paul
flea market
Fleming, Renée
flowers
Fred Leighton Salon
Freud, Sigmund
Friedman, Audrey
Friman & Stein
G
Gaynor, Janet
gemstones. See also Specific gemstones
Givenchy, James
gold, working with
gratification
Greffulhe (Countess of France)
Groult, André
H
hallmarks
Hancocks
Harris, Barbara
Haughton International Fine Arts & Antiques Dealers Show
Heyman, Oscar
hippocamp brooch
Hocq, Nathalie
brand ownership and
reproductions and
secrecy and
Horyn, Cathy
House of Boivin
description of
success of
workmanship, design and
Hughes, Graham
I
identification marks
authentication and
confusion over
later addition of
on later starfish
rationale for lack of
Susan Rotenstreich’s starfish and
Important Jewels auction
The Impossible Collection of Jewelry (Becker)
inheritance taxes
inspiration
intrigue
It Happened One Night
J
jewelry-making process
Josephine (Empress)
K
Kadakia, Rahul
karats
Kojik, Betty
Kooyker, Willem
Krupp diamond
Kwiat
L
Lalique, René
Lambert, Eleanor
Landrigan, Nico
Landrigan, Ward
family jewelry and
jewelry business and
Jonathan Norton and
Murray Mondschein and
Suzanne Tennenbaum and
Verdura party and
Lane, Kenneth Jay
Leighton, Fred. See Fred Leighton Salon; Mondschein, Murray
letters to buyers
Lewis, Coco
licensing
Lingdon, Daphne
Lipkin, Pamela
lost starfish
lost wax technique
Lotfinder
Loxton, Sam
Boivin archives and
Claudine Seroussi and
description of
at the Original Miami Beach Antique Show
Rogers’ starfish and
Lucas Rarities
Luchsinger, Nicholas
M
Magnificent Jewelry sale
Manishevitz, Haim
Marché aux Puces
Marcos, Imelda
marks
authentication and
confusion over
later addition of
on later starfish
rationale for lack of
Susan Rotenstreich’s starfish and
Marks, Nancy
Martens, Maria
master jewelers
Metropolitan Museum
Metropolitan Opera board
Miami Beach Antiques and Estate Jewelry Fair
mistresses
Modern Jewelry (Hughes)
Mondschein, Murray. See also Fred Leighton Salon
as Fred Leighton
importance of
jewelry business and
lack of availability of
meeting with
newer starfish and
tax fraud of
money people
Monteforte Foundation
Moutard, Juliette
description of
design and
distinguishing starfish of
Marie-Caroline de Brosses and
secrecy and
Munn, Geoffrey
N
naturalism
necklaces
newer starfish
newer starfish (reproductions)
distinguishing
elastomer and
licensing and
at Magnificent Jewelry sale
Murray Mondschein and
Nathalie Hocq and
rules governing
value of
Norton, Jonathan
Norton, Nicolas
number of starfish
assay marks and
author’s summary of
Daphne Lingdon on
ray position and
Russell Zelentz on
Stephen Russell on
O
O’Hagan, Helen
Original Miami Beach Antique Show
P
Panis Angelicus
Paris
Pat Saling company. See also Saling, Pat
payment plans
pearls
perception, importance of
Perelman, Ron
Perinet, Michel
Pierre Bergé auction house
pigeon’s blood rubies
Place Vendôme
platinum
points
Poiray
Poiret, Jeanne. See Boivin, Jeanne
Poiret, Paul
Porter, Cole
Possémé, Evelyne
Primavera Gallery
Le Prix des Bijoux (Cailles)
Profillet, Charles
provenance
public records
R
Ramos, Arturo Peralta
Ramos, Jackie
Raphaelite
rays, articulated
description of
as distinguishing features
Juliette Moutard and
reproductions and
of Rogers’ starfish
Susan Rotenstreich and
René Boivin: Jeweller (Cailles)
reproductions (newer starfish)
distinguishing
elastomer and
licensing and
at Magnificent Jewelry sale
Murray Mondschein and
Nathalie Hocq and
rules governing
value of
retiring of designs
Rogers, Millicent
description of
multiple
origins of
as previous owner
ruby heart brooch of
treatment of jewelry by
Rogers’ starfish
Ann Ziff’s starfish as one of
discovery of current owner of
Jayne Wrightsman and
path of
resale of
Saling and
as second one made
Stephen Burton on
variations in
romanticism
Rosenthal, Joel Arthur
Rotenstreich, Jon W.
Rotenstreich, Susan
rubies
Rue Chabanais
Russell, Stephen
Rutledge, Richard
S
salamander with click tail
sales prices
Evelyne Possémé on
Francoise Cailles records of
Jen
nifer Tilly’s starfish and
of Millicent Rogers’ starfish
Nancy Marks’ starfish and
Olivier Baroin on
Peter Edwards on
for Ramos collection
tripling of
Saling, Pat
lack of help from
later starfish and
meeting with
salons
sapphire and emerald starfish
Satie, Erik
Sautoirs
scent, carrying history in
Schaffer, Peter
Scherm, Rebecca
Schiaparelli, Elsa
Schlumberger, Jean
Schlumberger, Pierre
Schlumberger, São
Schlumberger, Victoire
secrecy
André Chervin and
Boivin archive and
Claudine Seroussi and
Daphne Lingdon and
Evelyne Possémé and
Francoise Cailles and
Geoffrey Munn and
Janet Zapata and
Jean Pierre Brun and
Olivier Baroin and
Stephen Russell and
thrill of
security concerns
Seroussi, Claudine
Arturo Peralta Ramos and
help from
inquiry from about Rogers’ starfish
Sam Loxton and
Sheherazade
shows
Siegelson, Lee
Berj Zavian and
Henry Baker and
Janet Zapata and
Jennifer Tilly’s starfish and
lack of availability of
Rogers’ starfish and
Stephen Russell and
Siegelson’s
signature marks
authentication and
confusion over
later addition of
on later starfish
rationale for lack of
Susan Rotenstreich’s starfish and
signet rings
Signoria (Palazzo della)
Silk Road (China)
Simon Teakle Fine Jewelry
size of starfish
SJ Phillips
Soros, Daisy
Stanton, Ann Marie
starfish hunters
statement brooches
Stephen Russell jewelry salon
Stetson, Caroline
stock market crash of 1929
stolen starfish
Surroko, Tatiana
Symbolic & Chase
T
Taffin
Tajan
Tappou, Caroline
Tarpas, Joanne
Taylor, Elizabeth
Teakle, Simon
Tennenbaum, Suzanne
Tiffany & Co.
Tilly, Jennifer
Travis, Martin
en tremblant
tutti-frutti design
U
Unbecoming (Scherm)
upstairs jewelers
V
valuation
authentication and
carats, points and
of newer starfish
Saling on
of vintage jewelry
workmanship, design and
Van Cleef & Arpels
Verdura
