THE CURIOUS
BARISTA’S
Guide to
COFFEE
THE CURIOUS
BARISTA’S
Guide to
COFFEE
TRISTAN STEPHENSON
WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADDIE CHINN
Designer Geoff Borin
Commissioning Editor Nathan Joyce
Production Manager Gordana Simakovic
Art Director Leslie Harrington
Editorial Director Julia Charles
Publisher Cindy Richards
Prop Stylist Sarianne Plaisant
Indexer Vanessa Bird
First published in 2015 by
Ryland Peters & Small
20–21 Jockey’s Fields
London WC1R 4BW
and
341 East 116th Street
New York, NY 10029
www.rylandpeters.com
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Text © Tristan Stephenson 2015
Design and commissioned photographs
© Ryland Peters & Small 2015
See page 192 for full photographic credits.
The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
e-ISBN: 978-1-84975-908-3
ISBN: 978-1-84975-563-4
A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.
US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.
Printed in China
Note: the metric system is often favoured by coffee enthusiasts because it is more accurate when it comes to precision measurement, but imperial measurements are also provided in this book. Purchasing a set of digital scales is recommended to ensure accuracy.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
01 THE HISTORY AND ORIGINS OF COFFEE
02 GROWING, HARVESTING AND PROCESSING COFFEE
03 ROASTING COFFEE
04 THE SCIENCE AND FLAVOUR OF COFFEE
05 GRINDING
06 ESpRESSO
07 ESpRESSO AND MILK: A MATCH mADE IN HEAVEN
08 OTHER BREWING METHODS
09 COFFEE-BASED DRINKS AND DESSERTS
10 APPENDIX
GLOSSARY
INDEX
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND CREDITS
INTRODUCTION
For a lot of people, a cup of coffee need only be something of passable quality and sufficient heat that delivers the expected caffeine kick. The daily grind of life becomes a more evenly matched contest when there’s a mug of coffee at your side or a paper cup of it in your hand. I can’t deny that I’ve enjoyed the energizing effects of caffeine, and it’s certainly questionable whether this book would have been completed without it!
The adoption of Italian espresso culture over the past 60 years has awarded the humble cup of joe with a refreshing new makeover, transforming coffee into something evocative, aspirational and sexy, while at the same time asking even the most macho of men to embrace fashionable Continental terms like ‘macchiato’. The espresso bar has, in turn, paved the way for the rise of the now ubiquitous American style chain-café which, these days, stands as a cultural middle ground between home and work, relaxation and concentration, comfort and functionality… oh, and they sell coffee, too.
We are now seeing a new wave of qualityfocused coffee shops that aim to pique our curiosity and satisfy our desire for a delicious drink, and, for a growing number of people, a good coffee is becoming much more than a simple agent of stimulation. We are beginning to recognize that coffee can contain a wealth of appreciable and sometimes unexpected flavours, but also that those who make good coffee are worthy of the same degree of recognition that any other complex culinary field would warrant. These baristas carry an air of quiet erudition about them as the new breed of coffee shop aspires to engage its customers in earnest dialogue over such things as coffee origin, roast style and brewing method.
The plethora of flavours and aromas that a cup of coffee can offer has, in turn, inspired us to dig deeper, and we are beginning to discover the fact that a great cup of coffee has a story behind it, too. The history of coffee’s ascent to prominence is part of that, but also the physical journey of a cup of coffee and the concerted efforts of numerous people across various parts of the world. Recognizing the fragility of this journey, coupled with the occasional glimpses of liquid perfection as every element comes together, is what makes some of these moments exploring coffee very special indeed.
We live in a time where our raw and roasted coffee has never tasted better, and the individuals who are driving its quality and success forward have never been more empowered. The coffee trade is more transparent than ever and delicious speciality coffee is easily obtainable. This book explores how coffee has reached this stage of development, the processes that it takes to get to us, why it tastes the way it does, and the considerations and practices that go into brewing amazing coffee drinks.
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
The first section of this book documents coffee’s extraordinary history. It’s fair to say that coffee has influenced the world we live in, having played its part in politics, economics, philosophy and technology for over 500 years and continuing to fuel the thoughts of the great thinkers of the modern era. Books like this one only exist as a result of the things that have come before, and when writing this book I found myself taking time out from all the scientific geekery of brewing delicious drinks, and grounding myself in a piece of history from coffee’s turbulent past.
The next chunk of the book covers all things concerning the production of coffee. This takes us from tropical farms, through to the processing of coffee cherries and on to the multifarious art of coffee roasting. All the stages of coffee production are necessary practical steps towards creating a physical cup of coffee, but within that they each harbour idiosyncrasies in the form of practices or methods, derived either from trial and error or tradition, which through scientific understanding can now be manipulated and exploited to great effect. Each of these factors combines and culminates in the coffee that you’re sipping on now, whether it’s a sad and lifeless cup of instant or the finest speciality coffee brewed to perfection. In this section, I also endeavour to explore some of the science of coffee flavour, while looking into such things as caffeine, water and the physics and chemistry of extracting flavour from ground coffee.
The following part of the book is about grinding and brewing (the latter is split into three chapters: espresso, espresso-based drinks and other brewing methods). We start with the different grind sizes and the impact on the resulting cup of coffee. From there, we move on to the vast array of brewing paraphernalia available to the modern barista, each unique in its approach towards separating brewed coffee from spent coffee grounds, and each unique in its ability to cast light on the numerous contours of coffee’s character.
The final section in the main part of the book includes a range of coffee-based drinks that I have developed over the years. Some are original creations, and others are based on food and drink that you are very likely familiar with – albeit with a twist. These recipes are diverse, but the one thing that they have in common is the celebration of coffee flavour.
At the rear of the book, I’ve included an appendix, split into two parts. The first is an exploration of 40 coffee-producing countries, with a concise description of their respective histories, the size of their operations and the style and quality of some of their most exciting coffees. The second part focuses on a doz
en different varieties of coffee, along with their respective features and merits. Just like grapes in wine, specific varieties produce a range of different-looking coffee beans that go on to produce quite different-tasting cups of coffee.
01
THE HISTORY AND ORIGINS OF COFFEE
J
ust like the human race, coffee’s origins can be traced to Ethiopia. Who’d have thought that the legendary discovery of a humble goatherder would have gone on to lead to the formation of nations, revolutions and pioneering scientific inventions. Don’t believe me? Pour yourself a cup and read on...
It may be pure chance that coffee arrived in what we know now as the Middle East at the dawn of an unprecedented period of learning and enlightenment in the 9th and 10th centuries. It could also be a coincidence that in the 1,000 years that followed, on more than a few occasions, the cultural discovery of coffee preceded a sharp ascent to global power: from Ottoman, to British, French, Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch and American.
It’s probably also a coincidence that coffee-drinking establishments have, time, and time again, fertilized new ways of thinking, challenged class systems and fostered learning and debate. Indeed, some of the greatest names in history lived in a space and time surrounded by coffee-drinking culture, and sipped on more than a few cups themselves – from Isaac Newton, to Beethoven, Napoleon and even Steve Jobs. In some instances, the influence of coffee and coffee houses has sparked some of history’s most significant revolutions, civil wars and uprisings. Coincidence perhaps, but plausible enough that religious leaders, kings and politicians have smelled the coffee, pointed the finger, and in some cases even banned the bean altogether.
Coffee has only been consumed in Europe in the last four centuries. It only crossed the Atlantic to the New World a mere 300 years ago. And yet, in that time, it has been responsible for the formation of nations, the perpetuation of slavery, the creation of media platforms and the incarnation of massive trading conglomerates, and established financial institutions that are intrinsic to our global economic infrastructure. Its legacy has seeped into many aspects of our lives, not least politics, journalism, science and literature.
WHERE IT ALL BEGAN
Our journey begins in Ethiopia. While it is generally accepted that Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, it’s quite likely that it was simply the first place that the crop truly flourished after spreading from the Sudan. Exactly when its leaves, cherries, or beans were first consumed is a mystery, though. What we do know is that around 2,000 years ago, the nomadic Oromos tribe, living in the kingdom of Kefa (in modern-day Ethiopia), were known to have moulded the leaves and fruit of the coffee tree into a kind of cake that could be sucked and chewed on – rather like a caffeinated chewing gum – giving them a temporary boost of energy. Later evidence is rather circumstantial, however. In the 5th century AD, the Kingdom of Aksum ruled northern Ethiopia and parts of southern Egypt, and at this time, Aksum was doing a roaring trade with the Roman Empire, but, alas, there’s no record of a Roman ever drinking a cup of coffee…
It’s possible that coffee was planted in the kingdom of Himyar (now part of modern-day Yemen) shortly after the Kingdom of Aksum had invaded. Failing that, the 7th century saw plenty more interaction between the people of Ethiopia and Yemen, on both a political and intellectual level. It also saw the rise of Islam – much to coffee’s benefit. Some time later, the Arab trading routes from Yemen, namely the port of Mokha, became responsible for coffee’s domination of the Middle East.
The legendary tale of coffee’s discovery is worthy of a mention, though. The story goes that it was first discovered by a young Ethiopian goatherder called Kaldi. This story, more than any other, has stuck because it’s cute, vaguely believable, and open to a touch of embellishment. Kaldi was tending to his herd one evening when he noticed that they exhibited a certain friskiness after nibbling on the leaves and red cherries of a particular tree. Confused, and a more than a little intrigued, Kaldi tried the fruit for himself. The effect was almost immediate – he felt energized, motivated and alert. Kaldi had discovered caffeine, the most widely consumed drug in the world today. What happened next is open to debate; some say Kaldi took the fruit and leaves to elders, or religious men nearby, while others say that the influence of coffee made Kaldi rather ‘attached’ to his herd.
In time, Yemen developed its own story of the discovery of coffee, which tells a tale of a man called Omar who was condemned to die outside Mokha’s city walls. During his wanderings in the wilderness, Omar found a coffee tree and ate its fruit, which gave him the energy he required to return to the city. His survival was seen as a blessing, and so too was the discovery of the coffee plant, which subsequently became the beverage of choice for the residents of Mokha. The Arabs called the drink qwaha (the Arab word for wine), and since Muslims are forbidden to drink alcohol, coffee was probably about as close as they were likely to get to a bottle of plonk.
ARABIAN AND OTTOMAN COFFEE
Coffee spread with Islam, as it was commonly used in the performance of religious ceremonies to assist with all-night prayer sessions. It was probably at some point during this time, while Europe was wallowing in the Dark Ages, that the seeds (beans) of the coffee plant were first dried, roasted and ground up to make the first cup recognizable by today’s standards.
Coffee became an important trading commodity for Arab nations, with the world’s first coffee houses probably popping up in Yemen by the end of the 15th century. But following a trend that was destined to repeat itself, some leaders took a disliking to the stimulation that coffee granted their subjects. In 1511, Mecca’s governor, Kha’ir Beg, presented a pot of coffee to a council of legal experts and literally put it on trial for purportedly ‘making people drunk, or at least dispos’d them to commit disorders forbidden by the Law’. He was successful, too – coffee was burned in the streets and coffee houses were forced to cease trading the drink. The ruling was revoked only a few months later, by orders from higher up the chain of command, but over the following 200 years, similar decrees were made, then subsequently revoked, by sultans, governors, kings and authorities of other Arab regions and beyond.
A 19th-century painting of three noblewomen (and a child) enjoying a pot of coffee in one of Bethlehem’s coffee houses.
Once the Ottoman Turks took control of Yemen in 1517, they recognized how valuable a commodity coffee was, and passed strict laws on how coffee was exported, the aim being to reduce the risk of coffee being grown anywhere outside of Yemen. Coffee cherries had to be first steeped in boiling water, or partially roasted before being shipped to Suez, then overland to Alexandria for trading with European ports. This worked for a while, but inevitably someone managed to sneak some seeds out (by taping them to his stomach, so the story goes) and they were successfully cultivated in India.
There were mentions of coffee in European literature towards the end of the 16th century, and the first illustration of the plant appeared in Prosper Alpin’s Book of Egyptian Plants (1592). Alpin even mused that the Turks used the berries to make a ‘decoction or drinke’. Further interest in the exotic plant and the Turkish drink that it made was recounted by the Dutch physician known as Paludanus in his Itinerario (1596):
‘This drinke they take every morning fasting in their chambers, out of an earthen pot, being verie hote [...] and they say it strengtheneth and maketh them warme, breaketh wind, and openeth any stopping.’
In 1610 Constantinople (present day Istanbul), the gem in the crown of the Ottoman empire, was the largest and richest city in the world. At the time, the most popular drink was called Coffa, ‘black as soote, and tasting not much unlike it’. The strange practices of the powerful Ottoman empire piqued the curiosity of the Europeans. Here, after all, was one of the largest empires that had ever existed, stretching from Northern Africa to Eastern Europe, and at the height of its power right up to the gates of Vienna. The Coffa plant and its fruit became a subject of great interest for European botanists and physician
s, but the benefits of drinking coffee piqued the curiosity of nearly everyone.
Coffee has always been a social drink, as this 1870 illustration of an Arabian coffee house portrays.
THE RISE OF THE COFFEE HOusE
By the early 1600s, the coffee bean had made its way to British shores and in 1652 the first European coffee house opened in London. Pasqua Rosee’s coffee house was actually more of a stall, located in the churchyard of St Michael’s, just off London's bustling Cornhill. Rosee was thought to have been born early in the 17th century in Sicily. A shrewd businessman, he teamed up with Christopher Bowman, a freeman of the City of London, in order to appease the resistance of local alehouse owners to an outsider. The store was a big hit, and as the benefits of this magical drink became apparent (‘good after-relish’ and ‘breaking of wind in abundance’ were two ways that it was described) the stall soon became a large house, as it relocated across the road.
Coffee shops popped up in London like toadstools in the night. A mere ten years after Rosee’s shop served its first cup, there were thought to be nearly 100 ‘coffee men’ in London, with coffee houses also opening in Oxford and Cambridge. By the turn of the 18th century, some estimated the number at more than 1,000.
Coffee was the great soberer in a time where breakfast consisted of a small beer and when two pennies would get you extremely drunk. It was the antidote to alcohol’s generally debilitating effects, including the numbing of the senses and propensity to lead to toxic daytime brawls. This Turkish drink stimulated the mind, provoked discussion, ritualized debate, and encouraged rational enquiry on all manner of topics between like-minded people. As one anonymous English poem from 1674 put it, coffee was, ‘...that grave and wholesome liquor, that heals the stomach, makes the Genius quicker, Relieves the memory, revives the sad, and cheers the spirits, without making mad.’
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