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Preface
The story you are about to read follows the contours of a dream that I share with thousands of others: to sail a small boat over the open ocean, bound for no destination but the horizon. That dream began to unfold in August 2009 at a particularly dark time in my life. Reeling from personal failure, a bruising divorce, and the loss of a job, I found solace in the biblical commission to “put out into the deep” and left Annapolis to begin a thousand-mile, single-handed passage to Nassau. Sailing an aging but able thirty-two-foot sloop, the Gypsy Moon, I was not hoping to save others. I was the one who was lost. I needed to regain my bearings and find a new sense of purpose for my life.
It gives away nothing of the story to tell you that on my voyage, I failed miserably and succeeded in ways I never could have imagined. In this memoir, I have recorded observations and discoveries from the inward and the outward journey, and I have attempted to chart a course for others who may find themselves looking to begin again from a similar place in their lives. For the sailor, I have written a sea story that I hope will prove to be worth its salt. For the romantic, I have retold a fairy tale about two lovers who found each other as well as the courage to answer Mark Twain’s call to “sail away from the safe harbor” together.
It may be important to understand that most of this book was adapted from six letters that I published for a small group of longtime readers, friends, and family between November 2010 and November 2011. In putting together the book, I made some changes in the wording and organization of these letters, but overall, the narrative is the same. The last chapter, which records events that occurred well after the sixth and final letter was written, was not part of the original manuscript for the book. In hindsight, however, I don’t think the story would have made sense without it. Thus are we reminded that books really write themselves; the author is just the medium.
Here you will discover many of the joys and some of the sorrows of my life as well as my innermost hopes and dreams. I hope that in this discovery you feel you have found a friend. Perhaps someday we will meet to share other stories of the sea, life, and love. Until then, I wish you fair winds.
LATITUDE 38.97.86 N
LONGITUDE 76.47.61 W
ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND
Chapter 1
To Sail
In this day and age, which is to say a time well removed from the Age of Exploration, an era when there is less urgent need for travel and more efficient means to do so when one must, it would seem at the very least a mistake of judgment to point the bow of a small sailing vessel seaward and let slip her lines. One could offer clinical evidence that it is indeed an act of insanity, but that would risk missing the poetry of such a thing. Poetry or not, it is an odd habit, peering over the rail of a seagoing ship in a fifteen-knot breeze. Alone. And late in the day.
I know this pathology and have wrestled with this same impulse many times, usually regaining my heading and my senses and returning to port. Sailing alone or in company offshore, all night in a small boat, is a thing that passes for mere eccentricity or even dashing adventure in polite company. But however benign, it remains nonetheless a disorder, a departure from the mean and median of human life, and a path that many regard with admiration or envy but that few decide to follow. There are, I am told, more men alive today who have flown in outer space than who have sailed alone around the world by no power save what wind and water might supply. I am not surprised by this, nor would you be if you sailed with me.
What appeals to me about voyaging in a small boat under sail is what first appealed to me as a young boy about camping in the wilderness. Both are simple systems—or, more accurately, systems for achieving simplicity. Aboard a boat, life is reduced to its essential elements. Life as we live it in the modern world, by contrast, has become a very complicated thing. We take the first steps toward school, career, and marriage, and before we know it, we are swept up into a self-perpetuating cyclone of consumption and production, to be carried aloft on those busy winds until we are thrown back to Earth some seventy-five years later, wondering where all the time and money have gone. We consume, and so we produce; we produce, and so we consume.
In a boat at sea, the processes of consumption and production are conjoined. That’s the beauty of it. The wind and water are at once both spectacle and vehicle, means and medium. The steady breeze on our face enthralls us as it propels us. The sea bears us up and feeds us dinner. There is no Walmart there. There is nothing to buy. There is only to be.
In the city of Miami, the sky burns with electric light and the streets boil with the perpetual motion of cars and trucks and people, but just three miles off that coast, there is no traffic, no noise, and no light at night save the moon and the stars. The open ocean is the only place on Earth where the hand of man has taken no lasting hold.
I don’t know what compelled me to follow the seaward path again, that August day in Annapolis. Perhaps it was a desire to retake the helm of my own destiny, however briefly. I must say I felt in that moment no small affinity with the author of the autobiography Papillon, played by Steve McQueen in the film, who upon leaping into the sea and climbing onto a floating raft of coconuts—finally escaping Devil’s Island in his old age—yells to unseen listeners, “I’m still here, you bastards.”
I wish to take a moment to reassure any readers who, perhaps not familiar with me and my station in life, may be laboring under the mistaken impression that sailing is nothing but an idle pastime of the very rich. It is that in some circles, to be sure, but in general that sort of sailor loves racing, not cruising. He goes screaming about the bay with a gang of like-minded friends, ties up his expensive boat at the yacht club pier at the end of the day, savors his victory or plots his revenge in the yacht club bar, and drives back to his expensive home to await the next contest. For this man, sailing is a sport, not a frame of mind or a philosophy of life. It is, to him, very much like a game of golf played on the water. In stark contrast to this fellow, there is an entirely different breed of peasant sailors who are not more than sea gypsies, and while I cannot claim truly to be one of them, I have admired them from afar.
In fact, the rich and powerful make up the decided minority of the sailors I meet at sea. Many manage to stay just a boat length or two ahead of their bankers’ worst fears, and all their fragile dreams depend heavily on the continued beneficence of a favorable wind, a half inch of duct tape, and the Dow Jones Industrial Average—hardly bulwarks of constancy. Whereas it has been famously written that the rich are different from you and me, real sailors are very different from the rich. They are an addicted bunch (insufferable cheapskates, the lot of them), and not for nothing are they regarded contemptuously in posh marinas the world around as “ragbaggers.” You are likely to find more impressive balance sheets at the tailgate party of any college football game—that seemingly most egalitarian of pastimes—than among the skinned-knuckled old men in well-stained khakis and sockless Top-Siders, eyeing
pots of varnish at your local ship chandlery.
I am not speaking of “yachtsmen” here—those well-fed denizens of resort marinas, marking time from one gin and tonic to the next along the inland waterways, who dream mostly of time-shares in Miami, not of Magellan, and whose dreams are born aloft by diesel fumes, not wind and imagination. Nor am I speaking of those who rent sailboats on Caribbean vacations and (mostly) motor them nervously from one anchorage to the next.
To me, sailing is a way of looking at life, or it is nothing. It is a philosophy, not a space on one’s calendar between the Friday board meeting and Sunday brunch. The kind of adventure of which I speak cannot be rented any more than true love can be rented, nor is it merely an “experience” to be had, like a game of bowling or a good cigar. Voyaging under sail is a marriage of man and vessel, and as in any healthy marriage, the bond grows stronger even as the excitement of new love mellows. The things that strengthen that bond are the patience to endure and the commitment to overcome hardship. Patience and commitment are the heart of a sailor. In life, in love, and in boats, you’re either all in or you’re out.
This book is partly an effort to work out the navigational problems of the heart—to find true north; to account for set, drift, variation, and deviation and measure the time and distance run, that I might better know my position within what Tolkien called “some larger way,” and that others might better find the lights to guide their own voyages. Every ocean voyage forges both inward and seaward. The challenges of the seaward course that can be met are met easily enough by simple implements and routines of planning and preparation. The inward journey is not so well charted, and “there be dragons” along that way. So, with these thoughts in mind, let us cast off.
Chapter 2
A Voyage Begins
I stepped off a plane at Baltimore-Washington International Airport in August 2009 and made my way to the traffic of cars picking up passengers on the street below. It was an easy flight from Raleigh. I carried no luggage save what fit in a small duffel held with one hand. Walking into the bright morning sun, I felt the still, moist heat that, for a period however brief every summer, makes Maryland seem like Miami.
My boat, a thirty-two-foot sloop named the Gypsy Moon, lay just outside Annapolis in a shipyard on the Magothy River, where I had taken her for major repairs six months before. The strain of thirty seasons of sailing since she first slipped her builder’s traces had taken its toll, and the work necessary to fit her out for an ocean voyage had taken five months to complete. I had undergone some less visible but no less critical repairs myself in the past few years. Now the Gypsy Moon was ready, and so was I.
My sister and her husband met me at the airport to ferry me to the boat, but not before the obligatory lunch of Maryland crab cakes and farewells to my brother and his family, who live nearby. In the past year and a half, while the boat was berthed in Annapolis, I had relished weekends sailing around the bay in places where, growing up, I had only imagined I might one day stand at the helm of my own boat. Here, in my middle age, I had sailed the Gypsy Moon under the shadow of the statehouse that was America’s Revolutionary War capitol and the place where my service as a legislative intern, at age eighteen, had convinced me never to enter politics. Back in these old haunts, I had fun reconnecting with family and friends and imagining the life I might have had here if I had chosen differently between job offers in two cities—one in Houston, one in Baltimore—twenty-five years ago.
But before long, my plans to prove Thomas Wolfe wrong about going home again ran into reality. A sojourn of three decades in Texas and North Carolina had made me more accustomed to the civility of southern manners and less tolerant of the edgy combativeness of life up north. It’s not just that the drivers won’t let you in on the road up there. I recall passing abeam of another boat on the bay near Baltimore and leaning over the rail with a smile, ready to exchange what in southern waters would surely have been a friendly hello, and being startled by a broadside of profanity instead. (I had dared to come close.) Dumbfounded, I could manage no reaction but to say “I’m terribly sorry” and tack. It seemed that a good share of the population between Washington and Baltimore had grown accustomed to living with their dukes up. I decided that there is more to the warmth down south than the weather. I was eager to be off again, aboard the Gypsy Moon.
Over lunch, I answered questions from my family that gently probed the perimeters of my plans. Nassau seemed far away and nigh unattainable, not just to them, but to me as well. It’s not every day, after all, that one ships out to sea alone. It sounded more daring than it was, yet I not only understood but shared their concerns. The open ocean is no trifling thing, even on the best of days.
I feel right at home at the helm of a sailboat, although I didn’t come by that knowledge easily. Growing up in Maryland, I was the youngest child by ten years of a divorced mother of four, spoiled rotten by my two older sisters, too young to know my brother when he was growing up, and all but abandoned at the age of two by an alcoholic father whose absence was most acutely felt in a boy’s unfulfilled dreams of grand adventure. The world of seafaring was the stuff of Hollywood—unimaginable, and far from me. As a child I lived my dreams on a much smaller scale, on creeks and ponds that I could reach on foot, in nearby neighborhoods, and on scouting trips with the aid of the fathers of other boys. It was mostly about the fishing back then, and the smell of wood smoke, and the authenticity of living life in the rough—however briefly, and never far from the ready-to-eat suburban comforts of 1960s America. Those truant days in the woods were wonderful furloughs, allowing my imagination to inhabit a world apart from teachers and tests. I loved the unsupervised freedom of it all.
But Chesapeake Bay and the sea that lay beyond were distant and more impenetrable mysteries, brought closer to me only occasionally when my brother, Jay, would take me and my sisters out for day sails aboard various dories and dinghies—some he rented, some he purchased, and one he had built himself. I distinctly recall the moment when the bow of a Rhodes 19 sloop, with my brother at the helm, plunged out of the mouth of the South River into the chop of the broader waters of Chesapeake Bay. What was once a horizon of trees and houses became nothing but water and the unseen possibility of whatever lay beyond. I looked into the small space of the cuddy cabin beneath the mast, just big enough for a duffel of food and clothes, and wondered what it might be like if we just kept going.
We didn’t. When our hour was up we pointed that fearless ship of dreams sheepishly homeward, paid for the time used, and drove back to the city on dry land. But the infection of that moment and others like it remained with me and would reemerge often years later, beginning with the time when I decided to “borrow” Jay’s fourteen-foot sloop and take her sailing myself.
Chapter 3
Weather Signs
It was 1976. I was eighteen, and my brother was away on his honeymoon. “Borrowing” Jay’s boat for a day of sailing seemed the perfect way to impress a girl on a first date, but my plans ended abruptly when a gust of wind reached the mainsail more quickly than my hand reached the mainsheet. In an instant, all that once had been proud and skyward was scandalized and submerged. The girl swam ashore. Perched like an indignant wet bird on top of the floating, overturned hull, I stoically waited for the coast guard to arrive. They eventually came and, with more horsepower than horse sense, dragged the capsized sloop to shallow water without righting her first, and snapped off the mast in the process.
This inauspicious beginning on the Magothy was followed, years later, by lessons better learned in my twenties on Galveston Bay aboard Itledoo. She was the first boat that was all my own—a little sloop seventeen feet from stem to stern, wide as a bathtub in the middle, with an outboard motor no bigger than a blender hung off the transom. Then a junior associate at a large law firm in Houston, I would arrive at the office each Monday to face questions from a senior partner who kept a thirty-seven-foot luxury sailboat at the most prestigious yacht club on the bay.
“Get out on the water this weekend, Hurley?” he would ask. The answer was invariably yes, followed by tales of hopscotch voyages north and south aboard Itledoo, wave-rocked anchorages, mishaps, and storms. All of this seemed the utmost in derring-do compared to his own weekend, usually spent in the slip and never far from the ice machine, where most big yachts remain most of the time. A legendary long-distance sailor and favorite author of mine, Hal Roth, described such boats, nodding ever at their docks, as “distant Tarzan yells” attesting to the virility of their A-type owners who toil in faraway office towers and dream of the South Seas, where they never go. I had such dreams, too.
On my way home from another utterly forgettable deposition in Beaumont, Texas, in 1986, on one of those interminably long, flat stretches of East Texas highway punctuated by the occasional Stuckey’s restaurant, an idea occurred to me. My wife and I were in our twenties, with no children. We had law school finally behind us and student loan payments we could easily defer. I was content but not wedded to the idea of toiling to make partner at my firm. I had by then learned enough about sailing on our 1981 Cape Dory 30 cutter, Anne Arundel, to keep her right side up. It would be the perfect opportunity, I thought, to sell up and sail, stretch our legs, spend some time in the islands, and do what-have-you.
I don’t recall exactly why we didn’t go or whose idea it was to stay, but that’s not important anymore. What is important is that we didn’t go. We chose instead to make a home and rise in the ranks of our profession. It was the right choice. Far greater blessings followed—namely, two: a son, and then, eighteen months later, a daughter. I reveled in my return to Toyland, once banished forever, but now led in again by the hand of my own child. We moved back east to be closer to family. I began a new law practice in a small town in North Carolina and a new life as a father.
Once Upon a Gypsy Moon: An Improbable Voyage and One Man's Yearning for Redemption Page 1
