NEXT ROW: BO 2 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—3 sts dec’d.
Rep the last 2 rows 2 more times—14 (10, 10, 10, 14) sts rem.
BO all sts.
Finishing
Block pieces to measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew shoulder seams, easing front shoulders as necessary. Sew sleeve caps into armholes. Sew sleeve and side seams.
Front Bands
With RS facing and beg at lower edge, pick up and knit 60 (68, 68, 76, 76) sts evenly spaced along right front edge.
SET-UP ROW: (WS) P4, *k4, p4; rep from *.
Work in k4, p4 rib for 4 more rows.
BUTTONHOLE ROW 1: (RS) Work 28 (36, 36, 44, 44) sts in rib as established, p1, BO 2 sts, p1, k4, p4, k4, p1, BO 2 sts, p1, k4, p4, k4.
BUTTONHOLE ROW 2: (WS) Working in rib as established, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts over each gap formed on previous row.
Cont in rib as established for 5 more rows. BO all sts in patt.
Rep for left front edge, omitting buttonholes.
Collar
With RS facing and beg at edge of right front band, pick up and knit 23 (23, 25, 25, 28) sts along neck edge to shoulder, k22 (22, 26, 26, 28) held back neck sts, pick up and knit 23 (23, 25, 25, 28) sts along neck edge to end of left front band—68 (68, 76, 76, 84) sts total.
NEXT ROW: (WS) P4, *k4, p4; rep from *.
Cont in k4, p4 rib as established for 2 more rows.
BUTTONHOLE ROW 1: (RS) K4, p1, BO 2 sts, p1, work in rib as established to end of row.
BUTTONHOLE ROW 2: (WS) Working in rib as established, use the backward-loop method to CO 2 sts over gap formed on previous row.
Cont in rib as established for 3 more rows. BO all sts in patt.
Weave in loose ends.
Madeleine Shawl
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY
This pretty picot-edged shawl is a great traveling or weekend project. It is knitted point to point in a garter-based bias-stitch pattern that is worked simultaneously with the picot edge. The construction is simple enough for beginners and interesting enough to keep advanced knitters engrossed. The bias pattern creates a Faroese-style wing to shape the points, which allows the shawl to drape comfortably around the shoulders. Knitted in a worsted-weight luxury yarn, this shawl mixes the practical warmth of a thick homespun peddler’s shawl with the softness of a fine Regency-era cashmere shawl. Endlessly customizable and requiring fewer than 300 yards (275 meters) of yarn, this shawl is ideal for quick gifts and using up that odd skein or two of yarn.
Materials
yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
shown here: The Fibre Company Road to China (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 69 yd [63 m]/50 g): jade, 4 skeins.
needles
Size U.S. 10 (6 mm).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Tapestry needle.
gauge
About 11 stitches and 18 rows = 4" (10 cm) in bias-stitch pattern.
finished size
About 54" (137 cm) wide and 24" (61 cm) long at point.
Stitch Guide
Make Picot (MP)
Using the cable method (see Glossary), CO 3 sts. Working the first st through the back loop, BO 3 sts.
Designing Bias-Stitch Patterns
In woven fabrics, the lengthwise grain is the direction of the warp threads that run vertically along the fabric, and the widthwise grain is the direction of the weft threads that run horizontally across the fabric. The bias is measured at 45 degrees to the vertical and horizontal, or diagonally across the fabric. Garments constructed on the bias will have more stretch and hang with more drape than garments constructed on the lengthwise or widthwise grain. Knitted fabrics can also be constructed on the bias to maximize drape. Achieved through the creative use of increases on one side of the work paired with decreases on the other side, a rectangular fabric can be created in which the stitches slant to the left or right. The increases add fabric to one edge while the decreases remove fabric from the other. This produces a fabric that hangs beautifully and is particularly effective for shawls and wraps.
The direction of bias depends on the placement of the increases and decreases. If the increases are worked at the beginning of right-side rows and the decreases are worked at the end these rows, the fabric will slant toward the left. If the increases are worked at the end of right-side rows and the decreases are worked at the beginning of these rows, the fabric will slant toward the right.
The stitch pattern for the first half of this shawl is a simple repetition of ssk decreases followed by yarnover increases.
ROW 1: (RS) K1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
ROW 2: (WS) Knit.
As these two rows are repeated, the yarnover increases and ssk decreases align vertically to form pillars. Because the decreases are worked before the increases, the fabric slants to the left.
For the second half of the shawl, the yarnover increases are followed by ssk decreases.
ROW 1: (RS) K2, *yo, ssk; rep from * to last st, k1.
ROW 2: (WS) Knit.
As these two rows are repeated, the fabric slants to the right because the increases are worked before the decreases.
A ″V″ forms where the stitch pattern changes direction, which is perfectly formed to cradle the nape of your neck.
Shawl
CO 2 sts.
SET-UP ROW 1: K1f&b (see Glossary), k1—3 sts.
SET-UP ROW 2: [K1f&b] 2 times, k1—5 sts.
Cont to inc in patt as foll:
ROW 1: Sl 1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
ROW 2: MP (see Stitch Guide), k1f&b, knit to end—1 st inc’d.
ROW 3: Sl 1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
ROW 4: K1f&b, knit to end—1 st inc’d.
Rep these 4 rows 29 more times, ending with Row 4—65 sts, 30 picots; piece measures about 27" (68.5 cm) from CO.
Dec in patt as foll:
ROW 1: Sl 1, k1, *yo, ssk; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
ROW 2: MP, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d.
ROW 3: Sl 1, k1, *yo, ssk; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
ROW 4: Ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d.
Rep these 4 rows 29 more times, ending with Row 4—5 sts rem.
NEXT ROW: Sl 1, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
NEXT ROW: Ssk, k3—4 sts rem.
NEXT ROW: Ssk, k2tog—2 sts rem.
BO rem 2 sts.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Steam-block to measurements.
Bramble Beret
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY
This beret uses two traditional Aran patterns that are modified to be worked in the round. The blackberry stitch (also known as trinity stitch), a traditional filler stitch used at the seams or between larger motifs in Aran designs, is generally worked by increasing in each stitch on right-side rows, then decreasing on wrong-side rows. For this beret, however, the increases and decreases are worked on the same round, much the same as working bobbles. In addition, a double moss-stitch-filled cable pattern travels seamlessly over the beginning of the round to keep the pattern elements fluid. The crossing cables move in a diamond pattern, transecting the beginning of the round at their widest, then decreasing back down.
Materials
yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
shown here: The Fibre Company Canopy Worsted (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino, 20% bamboo, 100 yd [91 m]/50 g): laguna, 2 skeins.
needles
Ribbing: Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 16" (40 cm) circular (cir).
Body: Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 16" (40 cm) cir and set of 4 double-pointed (dpn).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Marker (m); two cable needles (cn); tapestry needle.
gauge
18 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in pattern stitch on la
rger needles, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 18¾" (47.5 cm) in circumference at brim, 28" (71 cm) in circumference at widest point, and 8" (20.5 cm) tall, after blocking.
Notes
•The marker is moved to accompany the beginning of the round beside the diamond cable. The marker should always fall before the k2 of the first diamond cable motif.
•Due to the traveling cable, the beginning of the round shifts 1 stitch to the right at the end of every even-numbered round for the first 12 rounds; the beginning of the round then shifts 1 stitch to the left at the beginning of every odd-numbered round for the next 13 rounds, then to the right again as the top is decreased.
•For even-numbered Rounds 2–12, work in pattern to 1 stitch before the end of the round. Work the first cable of the next round as: Sl last st of rnd onto cn and hold in back, sl m to right-hand needle, k2, p1 from cn. For odd-numbered Rounds 15–25, work the first cable as: Remove m at beg of rnd, sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, p1, replace m, k2 from cn.
•When working the chart, note that the beginning of the round is at the marker line, not at the right edge of the chart.
Hat
With smaller cir needle, CO 84 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts.
NEXT RND: *[K2, p1] 2 times, [k1, p1] 3 times; rep from *.
Cont in rib as established until piece measures 1¾" (4.5 cm) from CO. Change to larger cir needle.
INC RND: *K2, p1, k2, p1, [M1 (see Mirrored Increases), k1, M1, p1] 3 times; rep from *—126 sts.
Work Rnds 1–28 of Hat chart (see Notes above)—piece measures about 5¾" (14.5 cm) from CO.
Shape Top
Work Rnds 1–16 of Crown chart, changing to dpn when there are too few sts to fit comfortably on cir needle—14 sts rem.
Finishing
Cut yarn, leaving a 10" (25.5 cm) tail. Thread tail on a tapestry needle, draw through rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and fasten off on WS.
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
Shifting the Beginning of the Round
When some patterns—cables in particular—are worked in the round, the beginning of the round has to shift from round to round to maintain the integrity of the cable crossings. In other words, the cables twist around one another throughout the entire round, regardless of where the round begins. I like to think of a cabled hat as a large circular Celtic knot, with no beginning or end—it twines around and around indefinitely. You do need to mark the beginning of the round to facilitate the written instructions and replication of the knitted item, but the beginning of the round, and the marker, will shift as the piece is worked.
Two patterns interact in this hat—a blackberry stitch and a cable that undulates open and closed around a moss-stitch center. At its narrowest point, the cable is 5 stitches wide and is worked once as a 2/1/2 LC. On the next round, the 5 stitches of the cable divide, and 2 are worked into a 2/1RPC and another 2 are worked into a 2/1LPC. Because the beginning of the round occurs at the beginning of those 5 cable stitches, the beginning shifts to the right with them. To track the beginning of the round, keep the marker in front of the 2/1RPC. Then, when the cable reaches its widest point and begins to narrow again (when the 2/1RPC evolves into a 2/1LPC), move the marker back to the left with these stitches.
Hat
Crown
Maple Bay Cardigan
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY
Although only those sweaters made by the Coast Salish peoples of Canada’s western coast can bear the official Cowichan moniker, this sweater takes inspiration from the traditional sweaters of that rugged region. The word Cowichan is derived from the Coast Salish Hul’qumi’num’ word Khowutzun or Quw’utsun’ (spellings vary), which means “land warmed by the sun.” The traditional sweaters made by these tribes incorporate bold geometrics and natural imagery worked in bulky natural-colored wool in the intarsia method of color blocks. More fitted than the traditional bulky overcoat style, this version is knitted in a varied color palette in a blend of natural fibers that is soft and warm close to the skin.
Materials
yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
shown here: The Fibre Company Organik (70% merino wool, 15% baby alpaca, 15% silk; 98 yd [90 m]/50 g): river delta (tan; MC), 9 (11, 12, 14) skeins; loam (dark brown; CC1), 3 skeins; highlands (blue-green; CC2), 2 skeins; arctic tundra (white; CC3), 2 (2, 2, 3) skeins.
needles
body: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm).
cuffs and collar: size U.S. 6 (4 mm): straight and 32" (80 cm) cir.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; four 2" (5 cm) toggle buttons; tapestry needle.
gauge
18 stitches and 27 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.
finished size
About 36 (38½, 43, 47)" (91.5 [98, 109, 119.5] cm) bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 36" (91.5 cm).
Note
•The Triangles chart is worked using the stranded knitting method, using three colors on two of the rows. The Small Leaf, Large Leaf, and Beaver charts are worked using the intarsia method.
Intarsia
Intarsia is knitting with two or more colors to create a pattern motif. Unlike stranded knitting, no “floats” of nonworking yarn are carried across the back of the work in intarsia. Similar to tapestry weaving, intarsia is worked in blocks, or sections, of color across each row. The nonworking yarn hangs at the back until it is needed again on the next row. Some people find it easiest to work with a bobbin of yarn for each color block. I prefer to cut lengths 2 to 5 yards (1.8 to 4.5 meters) long for each block. The advantage is that the lengths can be easier to untangle than bobbins; the disadvantage is that there are more ends to weave in later. Whichever method you use, be sure to twist the working and nonworking yarns together at each color change.
To twist the colors, bring the new color up from under the color just worked (Figure 1). This will “tack” the nonworking yarn against the back of the work and will prevent holes from forming on the front. When working intarsia, remember to keep your tension even and fluid to prevent puckers from forming at the color changes.
figure 1
Back
With CC1 and smaller straight needles, CO 78 (86, 94, 106) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib as foll:
ROW 1: (RS) *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
ROW 2: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Rep these 2 rows 9 more times—piece measures about 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO. Change to larger needles and MC. Beg with a RS row, work 4 (4, 4, 6) rows in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows) and at the same time inc 3 (1, 3, 0) st(s) in the first row—81 (87, 97, 106) sts.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K1 (2, 1, 3) with MC, *work 15 sts according to Row 1 of Small Leaf chart (see above), k1 (2, 1, 2) with MC; rep from * 4 (4, 5, 5) more times, k0 (0, 0, 1) with MC.
Work as established through Row 16 of chart. Work 2 rows with MC. Beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Rows 1–6 of Triangles chart. Work 2 rows with CC3.
NEXT ROW: (RS) K1 (2, 7, 9) with CC3, work Row 1 of Beaver chart from left to right, k1 (3, 3, 5) with CC3, work Row 1 of Large Leaf chart, k1 (3, 3, 5) with CC3, work Row 1 of Beaver chart from right to left, k1 (2, 7, 10) with CC3.
Work as established through Row 27 of charts.
Work 2 rows with CC3. Beg with a WS row and beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Rows 1–6 of Triangles chart once more, reading from top to bottom to reverse patt. Change to MC and work even in St st until piece measures 15 (16, 17, 18)" (38 [40.5, 43, 45.5] cm) from CO, or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Raglan
BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows—73 (79, 89, 98) sts rem.
DEC ROW: (RS) P1, k1, p1, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, p1, k1, p1—2 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROW: Work sts as they app
ear.
Rep the last 2 rows 19 (21, 23, 27) more times—33 (35, 41, 42) sts rem. Place sts on holder.
Left Front
With CC1 and smaller straight needles, CO 35 (39, 43, 47) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib as foll:
ROW 1: (RS) *K2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
ROW 2: P3, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows 9 more times—piece measures about 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO. Change to larger needles and MC. Beg with a RS row, work 4 (4, 4, 6) rows in St st.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K2 (3, 5, 7) with MC, *work 15 sts according to Row 1 of Small Leaf chart, k1 (3, 3, 3) with MC; rep from * once more, k1 (0, 2, 4) with MC.
Work as established through Row 16 of chart. Work 2 rows with MC. Beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Rows 1–6 of Triangles chart. Work 2 rows with CC3.
NEXT ROW: (RS) K2 (4, 6, 8) with CC3, work 30 sts according to Row 1 of Beaver chart, reading from left to right, k3 (5, 7, 9) with CC3.
Work as established through Row 27 of chart. Work 2 rows with CC3. Beg with a WS row and beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Rows 1–6 of Triangles chart, reading from top to bottom to reverse patt. Change to MC and work even in St st until piece measures same length as back to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Vintage Modern Knits Page 2
