Sleeves
With larger, shorter cir needle or dpn, RS facing, and beg after held gusset sts, pick up and knit 60 (60, 60, 60, 72, 72, 72, 72, 80, 80) sts evenly spaced around armhole, pm, then work gusset sts as: p1, k9 (9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13), p1, pm to denote beg of rnd. Work short-rows (see Short-Rows) as foll:
SHORT-ROW 1: (RS) K8, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 2: (WS) Sl 1, k7, sl m, k1, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k8, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 3: Sl 1, k7, sl m, p1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1, sl m, k6, wrap next st, turn work—2 gusset sts dec’d.
SHORT-ROW 4: Sl 1, k5, sl m, k1, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k6, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 5: Sl 1, k5, sl m, p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, k4, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 6: Sl 1, k3, sl m, k1, p2tog, purl to 3 sts before m, ssp (see Glossary), k1, sl m, k4, wrap next st, turn work—2 gusset sts dec’d.
SHORT-ROW 7: Sl 1, k3, sl m, p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, k2, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 8: Sl 1, k1, sl m, k1, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k2, wrap next st, turn work.
NEXT ROW: Sl 1, k1, sl m, p1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1—2 gusset sts dec’d.
NEXT RND: Knit to m, working wraps tog with wrapped sts as you come to them, sl m, p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1.
SET-UP RND: Beg and ending as indicated for sleeve, work Rnd 1 of Straithes chart to m, sl m, p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1.
Work 0 (0, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 6, 6, 6) rnds in patt and at the same time dec 2 gusset sts every 3rd rnd as established—5 gusset sts rem.
NEXT RND: Work Rnd 2 (2, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 8, 8, 8) of chart to m, sl m, p1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p1—3 gusset sts rem.
NEXT RND: Work Rnd 3 (3, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9) of chart to m, sl m, p2tog, p1—62 (62, 62, 62, 74, 74, 74, 74, 82, 82) sts rem.
Work even in patt through Rnd 31 of chart, purling 2 gusset sts throughout. Change to St st, keeping 2 purl sts as established, and work even for 2 (2, 2, 2, 2½, 2½, 2½, 2½, 3, 3)" (5 [5, 5, 5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5] cm).
DEC RND: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, p2—2 sts dec’d.
Rep dec rnd every 8th rnd 8 more times—44 (44, 44, 44, 56, 56, 56, 56, 64, 64) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 18 (18, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 20, 20, 20)" (45.5 [45.5, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5, 51, 51, 51] cm) from pick-up rnd at shoulder, or 1" (2.5 cm) less than desired finished length. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 4 times, then purl 1 rnd. Using the Channel Island method (see Channel Island sidebar), BO all sts.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Block to measurements.
Neckband
With smaller, shorter cir needle and RS facing, k26 (28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 38, 38, 38, 40) held front neck sts, pick up and knit 4 sts over 8 rows of neck shaping, k34 (36, 36, 38, 42, 42, 46, 46, 46, 48) held back neck sts, pick up and knit 4 sts over 8 rows of neck shaping—68 (72, 72, 76, 84, 84, 92, 92, 92, 96) sts total. Pm and join for working in rnds. Work in k2, p2 rib for 1½" (3.8 cm), then work 4 rnds in St st. BO all sts.
Telemark
Leg Warmers
DESIGNED BY KATE GAGNON OSBORN
Norwegian folk costume—bold graphics from Fana, iconic lice-stitch patterns from the Setesdal valley, and Selbu mittens and accessories—comprise most of what we view as traditional Norwegian knitting. The bold geometrics in Fana garments, popular in black or brown and white during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, originated as part of men’s traditional costume. The lice-patterned sweaters from the Setesdal valley—white patterning and geometric color-work against a black background—can be traced back to the 1840s. Selbu knitting originated with a pair of black-on-white patterned mittens knitted by a young girl in the mid-1800s. All three of these traditional components—graphic motifs, lice patterning, and black-on-white colorwork—are united in this pair of contemporary leg warmers.
Materials
yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
shown here: The Fibre Company Canopy Worsted (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 20% bamboo; 100 yd [91 m]/50 g): orchid (MC), 3 skeins; obsidian (CC), 1 skein.
needles
leg: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
edging: size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): set of 4 or 5 dpn.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Marker (m); tapestry needle.
gauge
22 stitches and 26 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in leg pattern on larger needles, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 11" (28 cm) circumference at cuff, 14½" (37 cm) circumference at knee, and 17¼" (44 cm) overall length.
Sewn Bind-Off
A tight ribbing at the top of the leg is crucial for these leg warmers to stay in place. Instead of using a standard bind-off at the top of the leg (which might prevent the leg warmers from stretching enough to get on or fit comfortably), the sewn bind-off is used. This bind-off, first introduced by the inimitable Elizabeth Zimmermann, guarantees an elastic edge and a comfortable fit.
To work this bind off, cut a tail three times the circumference of your work—about 45" (114.5 cm) in this case. Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and work as follows:
*Bring the tapestry needle through the first two stitches purlwise (Figure 1) and pull the yarn through, then bring the tapestry needle through the first stitch knitwise (Figure 2) and pull the yarn through, then slip the first stitch off the needle. Repeat from * to the end of the stitches to be bound off. To finish, bring the tapestry needle purlwise through the remaining stitch and fasten off.
figure 1
figure 2
Band
Cuff
Leg
Leg Warmer
With MC and smaller needles, CO 56 sts. Arrange sts as evenly as possible on 3 or 4 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 1" (2.5 cm) from CO.
INC RND: *K14, M1 (see Mirrored Increases); rep from *—60 sts.
Change to larger needles. Work Rnds 1–9 of Cuff chart.
Work Rnds 1–59 of Leg chart, inc as indicated on chart—80 sts.
Work Rnds 1–21 of Band chart—piece measures about 15¾" (40 cm) from CO. With MC, knit 1 rnd.
DEC RND: *K8, k2tog; rep from *—72 sts rem.
Change to smaller needles. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1½" (3.8 cm). Using the sewn method (see sidebar at left), BO all sts.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Block to measurements.
Erin Cardigan
DESIGNED BY KATE GAGNON OSBORN
Cabled Aran sweaters—named for the islands off the coast of Ireland where they are believed to have originated—are ubiquitous, but surprisingly recent additions to knitwear history. They became widespread in the early 1900s when women of the islands began to knit garments to supplement sparse household income; patterns became commercially available in the 1940s. Of the many myths surrounding these sweaters, one of the most widespread is that a fisherman drowned at sea could be identified by the unique pattern of his sweater. What is established fact is that as knitting trends change and evolve, Aran sweaters continue to be hugely popular. This sweater, while heavily inspired by tradition, has been updated with set in sleeves, saddle shoulders, and a more figure-flattering fit.
Materials
yarn
Sportweight (#2 Fine).
shown here: The Fibre Company Savannah (50% wool, 20% cotton, 15% linen, 15% soy fiber; 160 yd [146 m]/50 g): chambray, 9 (10, 12, 13, 15, 15) skeins.
needles
body and sleeves: size U.S. 6 (4 mm).
ribbing: size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle; twelve ½" (1.3 cm) buttons.
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gauge
21 stitches and 35 rows = 4¾" (10 cm) in seed stitch on larger needles.
Center sleeve cable panel (Sleeve Chart B) = 2¼" (5.5 cm) wide.
Main back cable panel (Chart D) = 4¾ (12 cm) wide.
finished size
About 31 (35½, 40, 43, 47½, 50½)" (78.5 [90, 101.5, 109, 120.5, 128.5] cm) bust circumference; designed for a close fit with zero ease. Sweater shown measures 35½" (90 cm).
Stitch Guide
Seed Stitch (multiple of 2 sts)
ROW 1: *P1, k1; rep from *.
ROW 2: Purl the knits and knit the purls.
Rep Row 2 for patt.
Measuring Gauge on Cable Patterns
Sweaters designed with a lot of cabling are easy to knit once the proper gauge has been achieved. Because many sweaters incorporate multiple cable patterns and because the gauge in each pattern can differ, it is a good idea to measure the gauge in the given filler stitch (seed stitch for this pattern) as well as in the cable patterns. This process takes just a little bit longer than swatching a single stitch pattern, but it ensures the best possible end result—and is arguably much quicker than ripping out an entire ill-fitting sweater!
To measure the gauge properly, simply isolate a few of the main cable patterns in the garment and knit a swatch for each cable pattern, plus a few extra stitches on each side for ease in measuring gauge. Knit a full pattern repeat, then block the swatch and measure the width of the cable repeat. For example, the larger main cable pattern in this pattern is 34 stitches wide and measures 4¾" (12 cm) wide, or 7.16 stitches per inch (2.5 cm).
Back
With smaller needles, CO 82 (94, 106, 114, 126, 134) sts.
SET UP ribbing: (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), place marker (pm), *work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm, work 12 sts according to Ribbing Chart B, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm*, work 20 sts according to Ribbing Chart D, pm, rep from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), k1.
Work in rib as established until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles.
INC ROW: (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), slip marker (sl m), *work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Body Ribbing Increase Chart B, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m*, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart D, rep from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), k1—102 (114, 126, 134, 146, 154) sts.
Keeping edge sts in St st and maintaining seed st (see Stitch Guide) on each side of cables as established (i.e., purl the knits and knit the purls), work through Row 6 of charts—120 (132, 144, 152, 164, 172) sts.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), sl m, *work Row 1 of Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Body Chart B, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart A, sl m*, work Row 1 of Chart D, sl m, rep from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), k1.
Work in patts as established until piece measures 16 (16, 16½, 16½, 17, 17)" (40.5 [40.5, 42, 42, 43, 43] cm) from CO or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Armholes
Cont in patt, BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of foll 2 rows, then BO 0 (0, 0, 0, 4, 5) sts at beg of foll 0 (0, 0, 0, 2, 2) rows—108 (116, 126, 130, 132, 136) sts rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every RS row 4 (6, 8, 9, 9, 10) times, then every 4th row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5) times—94 (96, 102, 104, 106, 106) sts rem. Work in patt until armholes measure 6¼ (6¾, 7¼, 7½, 8, 8¼)" (16 [17, 18.5, 19, 20.5, 21] cm), ending with a WS row.
Shape Shoulders
BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—66 (66, 68, 66, 66, 64) sts rem. BO 7 (7, 8, 7, 7, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows—52 sts rem. BO all sts.
Right Front
With smaller needles, CO 41 (47, 53, 57, 63, 67) sts.
SET UP RIBBING: (RS) K1, p1, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart C, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm, work 12 sts according to Ribbing Chart B, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm, [k1, p1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), k1.
Work in rib as established until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles.
INC ROW: (RS) K1, p1, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart C, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Body Ribbing Increase Chart B, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), k1—51 (57, 63, 67, 73, 77) sts.
Keeping edge sts in St st and maintaining seed st at side edge as established, work through Row 6 of increase charts—59 (65, 71, 75, 81, 85) sts.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K1, p1, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart C, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Body Chart B, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart A, sl m, work in seed st as established to last st, k1.
Cont in patts as established until piece measures same as back to underarm, ending with a RS row.
Shape Armhole
Note: Neck shaping beg while armhole shaping is in progress; read all the way through the next sections before proceeding.
With WS facing and cont in patt, BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) sts at armhole edge (beg of WS rows) once, then BO 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 6) sts once, then BO 0 (0, 0, 0, 4, 5) sts once—53 (57, 62, 64, 65, 67) sts rem. Dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 4 (6, 8, 9, 9, 10) times, then every 4th row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5) times. At the same time when armhole measures 2½ (3, 3½, 3¾, 4, 4¼)" (6.5 [7.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 11] cm), shape neck as foll.
Shape Neck
Cont working armhole shaping as established, at neck edge (beg of RS rows), BO 18 sts once, then BO 2 sts 2 times. Dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 3 times—21 (22, 25, 26, 27, 27) sts rem after all neck and armhole shaping is complete. Work even in patt until armhole measures 6¼ (6¾, 7¼, 7½, 8, 8¼)" (16 [17, 18.5, 19, 20.5, 21] cm), ending with a RS row.
Shape Shoulder
At armhole edge (beg of WS rows), BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 10) sts once, then BO 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts once—7 (7, 8, 7, 7, 6) sts rem. At beg of next WS row, BO all sts.
Left Front
With smaller needles, CO 41 (47, 53, 57, 63, 67) sts.
SET UP RIBBING: (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm, work 12 sts according to Ribbing Chart B, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart C, pm, p1, k1.
Work in rib as established until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles.
INC ROW: (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 1 (4, 7, 9, 12, 14) time(s), sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Body Ribbing Increase Chart B, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart C, sl m, p1, k1—51 (57, 63, 67, 73, 77) sts.
Keeping edge sts in St st and maintaining seed st at side edge as established, work through Row 6 of increase charts—59 (65, 71, 75, 81, 85) sts.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K1, work in seed st as established to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Body Chart B, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart C, sl m, p1, k1.
Cont in patts as established until piece measures same as back to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Armhole
Note: Neck shaping beg while armhole shaping is in progress; read all the way through the next sections before proceeding.
With RS facing and cont in patt, BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) sts at armhole edge (beg of RS rows) once, then BO 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 6) sts once, then BO 0 (0, 0, 0, 4, 5) sts once—53 (57, 62, 64, 65, 67) sts rem. Dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 4 (6, 8, 9, 9, 10) times, then every 4th row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5) times. At the same time when armhole measures 2½ (3, 3½, 3¾, 4, 4¼)" (6.5 [7.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 11] cm), shape neck as foll.
Shape Neck
Cont working armhole shaping as established, at neck edge (beg of WS rows), BO 18 sts once, then BO 2 sts 2 times. Dec 1 st at neck ed
ge every RS row 3 times—21 (22, 25, 26, 27, 27) sts rem after all neck and armhole shaping is complete. Work even in patt until armhole measures 6¼ (6¾, 7¼, 7½, 8, 8¼)" (16 [17, 18.5, 19, 20.5, 21] cm), ending with a WS row.
Shape Shoulder
At armhole edge (beg of RS rows), BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 10) sts once, then BO 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts once—7 (7, 8, 7, 7, 6) sts rem. At beg of next RS row, BO all sts.
Sleeves
With smaller needles, CO 46 (46, 50, 50, 58, 58) sts.
SET UP RIBBING: (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 5, 5, 7, 7) times, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm, work 12 sts according to Ribbing Chart B, pm, work 8 sts according to Ribbing Chart A, pm, [k1, p1] 4 (4, 5, 5, 7, 7) times, k1.
Work in rib as established until piece measures 1½" (3.8 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles.
INC ROW: (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 5, 5, 7, 7) times, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m, work Row 1 of Sleeve Ribbing Increase Chart B, sl m, work Row 1 of Ribbing Increase Chart A, sl m, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 5, 5, 7, 7) times, k1—54 (54, 58, 58, 66, 66) sts.
Vintage Modern Knits Page 9
