gauge
32 stitches and 25 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in charted pattern on larger needles, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 6" (15 cm) wide and 55" (139.5 cm) long, after blocking.
Tacking Long Floats
When working a stranded pattern, you never want to carry the non-working yarn across the back of the work for more than about 5 stitches, or whatever constitutes about a inch at your gauge. Some patterns, such as the Ajiro Scarf, require that the non-working yarn is carried farther—7 stitches in this case. To help shorten the floats while maintaining good tension, “tack” these long floats to the wrong side of the work.
STEP 1. Knit 2 or 3 stitches with MC (2 stitches shown in illustration), insert the right-hand needle tip into the next stitch on the left-hand needle, place the non-working yarn (in this case, CC) over the right-hand needle (Figure 1), then knit the stitch with the working yarn (in this case, MC) as usual.
STEP 2. Lower the non-working yarn and knit the next stitch to trap the non-working yarn against the back of the fabric (Figure 2).
As with any stranded pattern, keep the floats nice and loose against the wrong side of the knitted fabric.
figure 1
figure 2
Scarf
With contrasting waste yarn, CC, and larger 16" (40 cm) cir needle, use the crochet method (see Glossary) to provisionally CO 98 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts.
NEXT RND: Work 49 sts according to Rnd 1 of Ajiro chart, pm, beg at right edge of chart, work 49 sts according to Rnd 1 of chart again.
Cont as established, rep Rnds 1–12 of Ajiro chart until piece measures about 54" (137 cm) from CO, ending with Rnd 1 or Rnd 7 of chart. Change to smaller cir needle and CC. Knit 1 rnd.
Finishing
Place 49 front sts onto one needle and 49 back sts onto a second needle. Holding the needles parallel in your left hand and holding the other end of the smaller cir needle in your right hand, use CC to knit the sts tog as foll: *Insert right needle tip into the first st on the front needle, then into the first st on the back needle, then knit these sts tog, rep from * to end—49 sts rem.
Work 4 rows in garter st (knit every row). BO all sts.
Carefully remove waste yarn from provisional CO and repeat finishing instructions for other end.
Ajiro
Glossary
Abbreviations
beg
begin(s); beginning
BO
bind off
CC
contrasting color
cir
circular
cm
centimeter(s)
cn
cable needle
CO
cast on
cont
continue(s); continuing
dec(s)
decrease(s); decreasing
dpn
double-pointed needles
foll
follow(s); following
g
gram(s)
inc(s)
increase(s); increasing
k
knit
kwise
knitwise, as if to knit
k1f&b
knit into the front and back of same stitch
m
marker(s)
MC
main color
mm
millimeter(s)
M1
make one (increase)
p
purl
patt(s)
pattern(s)
psso
pass slipped stitch over
pwise
purlwise, as if to purl
p1f&b
purl into front and back of same stitch
rem
remain(s); remaining
rep
repeat(s); repeating
rev St st
reverse stockinette stitch
rnd(s)
round(s)
RS
right side
sl
slip
sl st
slip st (slip 1 stitch purlwise unless otherwise indicated)
ssk
slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, from left needle to right needle, insert left needle tip through both front loops and knit together from this position (1 stitch decrease)
st(s)
stitch(es)
St st
stockinette stitch
tbl
through back loop
tog
together
WS
wrong side
wyb
with yarn in back
wyf
with yarn in front
yd
yard(s)
yo
yarnover
*
repeat starting point
* *
repeat all instructions between asterisks
( )
alternate measurements and/or instructions
[ ]
work instructions as a group a specified number of times
Bind-Offs
Three-Needle Bind-Off
Place the stitches to be joined onto two separate needles and hold the needles parallel so that the right sides of knitting face together. Insert a third needle into the first stitch on each of two needles (Figure 1) and knit them together as one stitch (Figure 2), *knit the next stitch on each needle the same way, then use the left needle tip to lift the first stitch over the second and off the needle (Figure 3). Repeat from * until no stitches remain on first two needles. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch to secure.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
Two-Stitch One-Row Buttonhole
Note: Illustrations show a four-stitch buttonhole; instructions are for a two-stitch buttonhole.
Bring the yarn to the front of the work, slip the next stitch purlwise, then return the yarn to the back. *Slip the next stitch, pass the second stitch over the slipped stitch and drop it off the needle (Figure 1). Repeat from * once more. Slip the last stitch on the right needle to the left needle and turn the work around. Bring the working yarn to the back, [insert the right needle between the first and second stitches on the left needle (Figure 2), draw up a loop and place it on the left needle] 3 times. Turn the work around. With the yarn in back, slip the first stitch and pass the extra cast-on stitch over it (Figure 3) and off the needle to complete the buttonhole.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
Cast-Ons
Backward-Loop Cast-On
*Loop working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind. Repeat from *.
Cable Cast-On
If there are no stitches on the needles, make a slipknot of working yarn and place it on the needle, then use the knitted method to cast-on one more stitch—two stitches on needle. Hold needle with working yarn in your left hand. *Insert right needle between the first two stitches on left needle (Figure 1), wrap yarn around needle as if to knit, draw yarn through (Figure 2), and place new loop on left needle (Figure 3) to form a new stitch. Repeat from * for the desired number of stitches, always working between the last stitch made and the stitch next to it.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
Crochet Chain Provisional Cast-On
With waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose crochet chain (see Glossary) about four stitches more than you need to cast on. With knitting needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from end of chain, pick up and knit one stitch through the bump on the back of each crochet chain (Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. When you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pull out the crochet chain to expose live stitches (Figure 2).
figure 1
figure 2
Crochet
Invisible Provisional Cast-On
Make a loose slipknot of working yarn
and place it on the right needle. Hold a length of contrasting waste yarn next to the slipknot and around your left thumb; hold working yarn over your left index finger. *Bring the right needle forward, then under waste yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn and bring it forward under waste yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle back behind the working yarn and grab a second loop (Figure 2). Repeat from * for the desired number of stitches. When you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, place the exposed loops on a knitting needle as you pull out the waste yarn.
figure 1
figure 2
Knitted Cast-On
Make a slipknot and place it on the left needle if there are no stitches already there. *Use the right needle to knit the first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and place new loop onto left needle to form a new stitch (Figure 2). Repeat from * for the desired number of stitches, always working into the last stitch made.
figure 1
figure 2
Crochet Chain (ch)
Make a slipknot and place it on crochet hook if there isn’t a loop already on the hook. *Yarn over hook and draw through loop on hook. Repeat from * for the desired number of stitches. To fasten off, cut yarn and draw end through last loop formed.
Decreases
Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk)
Slip two stitches individually knitwise (Figure 1), insert left needle tip into the front of these two slipped stitches, and use the right needle to knit them together through their back loops (Figure 2).
figure 1
figure 2
Slip, Slip, Slip, Knit (sssk)
Slip three stitches individually knitwise, insert left needle tip into the front of all three slipped stitches, and use the right needle to knit them together through their back loops.
Slip, Slip, Purl (ssp)
Holding yarn in front, slip two stitches individually knitwise (Figure 1), then slip these two stitches back onto left needle (they will be turned on the needle) and purl them together through their back loops (Figure 2).
figure 1
figure 2
Grafting
Kitchener Stitch
Arrange stitches on two needles so that there is the same number of stitches on each needle. Hold the needles parallel to each other with right sides of the knitting facing up. Allowing about ½" (1.3 cm) per stitch to be grafted, thread matching yarn on a tapestry needle. Work from right to left as follows:
STEP 1. Bring tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl and leave the stitch on the needle (Figure 1).
STEP 2. Bring tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit and leave that stitch on the needle (Figure 2).
STEP 3. Bring tapestry needle through the first front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off the needle, then bring tapestry needle through the next front stitch as if to purl and leave this stitch on the needle (Figure 3).
STEP 4. Bring tapestry needle through the first back stitch as if to purl and slip this stitch off the needle, then bring tapestry needle through the next back stitch as if to knit and leave this stitch on the needle (Figure 4).
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until one stitch remains on each needle, adjusting the tension to match the rest of the knitting as you go. To finish, bring tapestry needle through the front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off the needle, then bring tapestry needle through the back stitch as if to purl and slip this stitch off the needle.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
figure 4
Grafting for Garter Stitch
Garter stitch, typically worked by knitting every stitch of every row, forms a reversible fabric with alternating rows of smooth knit stitches and purl bumps (even though no purling is required, purl bumps form on the wrong side of knit stitches). The key to grafting garter stitch is to keep the sequence of purl bumps or ridges and knit valleys intact. Grafting, worked with yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, adds a row of “knitting” to the two pieces to be joined. It is worked between two sets of the same number of live stitches. Each set is held on a separate needle.
For this design, the 8-stitch front bands extend into a narrow collar that is grafted at the back neck. There are 8 live right neck stitches and 8 live left neck stitches. Place each group of 8 stitches onto a separate double-pointed needle and lay the work on a flat surface with the right side facing up. Determine whether the last row worked on each group appears as a knit valley or purl ridge on the right side. Make sure that there is a knit valley at the base of the left neck stitches and a purl ridge at the base of the right neck stitches.
Hold the two pieces so that the needle with the purl ridge (right neck stitches) is behind the needle with the knit valley (left neck stitches). Thread a 10" (25.5 cm) length of yarn (use the yarn attached to the neck stitches to avoid joining new yarn) on a tapestry needle. You will use the tapestry needle to form purl ridges on the front needle (the left neck stitches) and knit valleys on the back needle (the right neck stitches).
Most grafting instructions say to insert the tapestry needle through the live stitches “as if to knit” or “as if to purl.” I prefer to think of the movements as “down” or “up.” To insert the tapestry needle “down,” insert it downward into the stitch, moving it away from your body. To insert the tapestry needle “up,” insert it upward through the stitch, moving it from the back of the work toward your body.
Note: In the illustrations, the “back” needle is shown as the upper needle; the “front” needle is shown as the lower needle.
STEP 1: To set up, insert the tapestry needle down (from front to back) through the first stitch on the lower needle, then up (wrong side to right side) through the first stitch on the upper needle (Figure 1).
STEP 2: Insert the tapestry needle up through the first stitch on the lower needle (the same stitch entered in Step 1), slip this stitch off the needle, then insert the tapestry needle down through the next stitch on the lower needle (Figure 2).
STEP 3: Insert the tapestry needle down through the first stitch on the upper needle (the same stitch entered in Step 1), slip this stitch off the needle, then insert the tapestry needle up through the next stitch on the upper needle (Figure 3).
To continue, repeat this simple mantra:
STEP 1: Up in front; slip off.
STEP 2: Down in front; leave on.
STEP 3: Down in back; slip off.
STEP 4: Up in back; leave on.
Repeat these four steps until all stitches have been grafted, ending by inserting the tapestry needle up through the last stitch on the lower needle, then down through the last stitch on the upper needle (Figure 4). Tighten the grafted sts to match the knitted tension. Weave the tail into the wrong side of the work.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
figure 4
Increases
Bar Increase Knitwise (k1f&b)
Knit into a stitch but leave it on the left needle (Figure 1), then knit through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2) and slip the original stitch off the needle (Figure 3).
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
Bar Increase Purlwise (p1f&b)
Purl into a stitch but leave the stitch on the left needle (Figure 1), then purl through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2) and slip the original stitch off the needle.
figure 1
figure 2
Raised Make-One Increase (M1)
See Make-One Left (M1L) and Make-One Right (M1R).
Raised Increase Purlwise (M1P)
With left needle tip, lift the strand between the needles from front to back (Figure 1), then purl the lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).
figure 1
figure 2
Pick Up and Purl
With wrong side of work facing and working from right to left, *insert needle tip under selvedge stitch from the far side to the near side
(Figure 1), wrap yarn around needle, and pull a loop through (Figure 2). Repeat from * for desired number of stitches.
figure 1
figure 2
Seams
Vintage Modern Knits Page 11
