Marcus Everyday

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by Marcus Wareing


  Pancetta and Mushroom Pasta Bake

  It is hard to beat a delicious bacon and mushroom pasta dish. Here, it is slightly tweaked, using pancetta instead of bacon and creating a rich mushroom sauce as well as using sautéed mushrooms. I have also added spinach, to provide the meal with a few more nutrients. I recommend making the mushroom sauce ahead of time. It will keep in the fridge for up to 3 days, meaning it takes less time to prepare this weeknight supper.

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  SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES | COOKING TIME: 1¼ HOURS

  1 tbsp vegetable oil

  200g smoked pancetta, diced

  250g chestnut or button mushrooms, thinly sliced

  200g baby leaf spinach

  ½ bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped

  400g fresh penne pasta or 300g dried

  100g Cheddar cheese, grated

  sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  FOR THE MUSHROOM SAUCE

  25g butter

  1 onion, sliced

  1 garlic clove, crushed

  ¼ bunch of thyme

  250g field (flat) mushrooms, sliced

  300ml good-quality chicken or vegetable stock

  200ml milk

  To make the mushroom sauce, melt the butter in a large, wide saucepan over medium heat until it begins to froth. Add the onion, garlic and thyme, season well with salt and pepper and cook for 20–25 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onion is golden and caramelised. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the mushrooms and cook for 10–15 minutes, until any liquid from the mushrooms has almost evaporated. Add the stock and milk and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the thyme stalks. Purée the sauce in a blender or food processor until smooth, taste and add a little more seasoning, if you like.

  Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over high heat, add the pancetta and let it brown, then turn down the heat to medium and cook for another 5 minutes, to render some of the fat from the pancetta. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked pancetta to the mushroom sauce. Return the pan to high heat and when hot, add the mushrooms, seasoning them well. Fry until golden and all the liquid has evaporated, then add the entire contents of the pan to the mushroom sauce. If you’re making the sauce ahead of time, let it cool, then chill until required.

  Preheat the oven to 230°C/210°C fan/gas 8.

  Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and blanch the spinach for 1 minute. Remove with a slotted spoon, refresh under cold running water and drain well. Squeeze out the excess moisture from the leaves and roughly chop. Add these to the mushroom sauce. Finish the sauce with the chopped parsley.

  Cook the penne in the pan of water you cooked the spinach in, a minute or two less than the packet instructions state. Drain and mix into the mushroom sauce. Place the pasta and mushroom mixture in a large ovenproof dish (about 20 × 30cm) and cover with the grated cheese and a generous grinding of black pepper. Bake in the oven for 10–15 minutes until the cheese has melted and the pasta bake is bubbling. Remove from the oven and serve.

  MARCUS’ TIP:

  Make a double batch of the mushroom sauce and freeze half of it. It is a versatile recipe – add more stock and you have a soup, or use it as is for a tasty sauce to accompany chicken or fish dishes.

  Pork Chops with Green Olives, Baked Orange and Fennel

  I really enjoy the combination of salty green olives, sweet orange and crunchy fennel. It makes for a great salad on its own, but here, juicy pork chops are a welcome addition. As in my last book, New Classics, I do tend to brine quite a lot of my meat; it is a worthwhile exercise and just takes a little forward planning to achieve. Baked orange is also a flavour you must try – the baking minimises the bitterness of the pith and adds a delicious bittersweet, molasses-like flavour, and a scent of fruitiness to the dressing. I suggest baking the orange in advance so it is ready to go on the day.

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  SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS BRINING AND COOLING | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 45 MINUTES

  1 orange

  4 large pork chops (about 900g in total), (brined for 2 hours if you wish – use 1 quantity of the brine from Crackling’d Slow-cooked Pork Shoulder with Baked Apple Sauce)

  2 tbsp vegetable oil

  100g pitted Gordal olives, sliced

  1 large fennel bulb, thinly sliced

  sea salt

  FOR THE DRESSING

  100ml extra virgin olive oil

  2 tbsp caper brine

  1 tbsp white wine vinegar

  2 tbsp wholegrain mustard

  1 tbsp honey

  Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.

  Put the whole orange in an ovenproof dish and place in the oven for 25–30 minutes, until golden on the outside. Remove, leave to cool then refrigerate until fully chilled. When cool, cut the orange in half then finely dice.

  Bring the pork chops to room temperature. Heat the vegetable oil in a griddle pan or frying pan over high heat. Rinse the pork chops under cold running water (if you brined them) and pat them dry with kitchen paper. When the oil is almost smoking, add the chops and fry them for about 3 minutes on each side, in batches if necessary. Place the seared chops on a roasting tray and transfer to the oven to cook for a further 6 minutes. Remove and allow to rest, covered loosely with foil, for 5 minutes.

  Combine the dressing ingredients and the finely diced baked orange in a jug and blend using a stick blender, until a chunky dressing is formed. Season to taste.

  Mix the olives and sliced fennel together in a bowl, season well with salt and pepper and dress with the dressing. Serve with the pork chops.

  Beef, Asparagus, Cashew and Miso Stir-fry

  A stir-fry is such a great meal. When cooked properly, the meat should be tender and the vegetables still crunchy. I use lettuce in this recipe as I really like the flavour it takes on when lightly grilled. It retains its bite in the centre and gives a fresh texture to the dish. I am a big fan of cashew nuts too, and they give this recipe a lovely richness. These are great flavours in a stir-fry.

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  SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 10 MINUTES

  100g cashew nuts

  2 tbsp vegetable oil

  600g steak (I prefer sirloin but rump is also good), cut into 5mm-thick strips

  2 tsp tamari or dark soy sauce

  2 baby gem lettuces, quartered lengthways

  1 tbsp white miso paste

  2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

  2 onions, thinly sliced

  1 garlic clove, finely grated

  1 green chilli, thinly sliced

  500g asparagus, tough ends trimmed and tender spears sliced in half diagonally

  ½ bunch of coriander leaves (optional), to garnish

  steamed white rice, or rice noodles, to serve

  Heat a large frying pan or wok over very high heat. Toss in the cashews and stir-fry them in the dry pan for a minute or two until golden brown, then tip out onto a plate.

  Add half of the vegetable oil and when the oil begins to smoke, add half of the steak and cook it very quickly, for about 30 seconds. Add half the tamari or soy sauce and cook for a further 30 seconds. Transfer the beef from the pan to a plate, place the pan back over the heat and repeat the process with the remaining oil, steak and tamari or soy, transferring the meat to the plate with the rest of the steak when it’s seared. While the pan is hot, sear the lettuce briefly, in batches, then remove and set aside.

  Clean the pan and place it back over the heat. Mix the miso paste and sesame oil with 2 tablespoons of water. Add half the mixture to the pan and place over high heat. Add the onions, garlic and chilli and cook for 3–4 minutes until soft. Add another tablespoon of water to the pan then add the asparagus. Cover the pan and cook for 2 minutes. Remove the cover and add the steak, any resting juices, the seared lettuce and the remaining miso sauce. Cook for 1 minute then stir in the toasted cashews and coriander (if using).

  Serve the stir-f
ry with steamed white rice or rice noodles.

  Lamb Chops with Minted Orzo and Pea Salad

  Lamb, mint and peas! A great, classic English combination that works so well – it brings back childhood for me. This recipe makes a great summer supper, and the salad on its own can also make a really delicious lunch – I just add a little crumbled feta and some toasted pine nuts.

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  SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS COOLING | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 25 MINUTES

  25g butter

  1 onion, finely diced

  1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

  200g frozen peas, defrosted

  250g orzo pasta

  8 lamb loin chops (brined for 2 hours if you wish – use 1 quantity of the brine from Crackling’d Slow-cooked Pork Shoulder with Baked Apple Sauce)

  sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  FOR THE FRESH MINT DRESSING

  6 tbsp malt vinegar

  2 tsp caster sugar

  1 red onion, thinly sliced

  4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing

  1 bunch of mint, leaves picked and finely chopped

  To make the fresh mint dressing, heat the malt vinegar in a small saucepan over medium heat, add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Remove the pan from the heat and add the red onion. Set aside until cool. When cool, prepare a large bowl of iced water. Place the vinegar and red onion, olive oil and mint leaves in a small food processor or blender and blitz until smooth. Place in a bowl over the bowl of iced water and whisk until completely cold, to retain the green colour.

  Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the diced onion and chilli. Season well and cook for around 10 minutes until soft but not coloured, then add the peas and cook for 1 minute. Transfer to a food processor or blender and pulse lightly, to retain the texture.

  Remove the lamb chops from the fridge and let them come to room temperature (rinsing off the brine and patting dry with kitchen paper, if lamb was brined). Bring a medium-large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Cook the orzo pasta according to the packet instructions, then rinse under cold running water until cool and drain well.

  Heat a griddle pan over high heat until very hot. Brush the lamb chops all over with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper on both sides. Sit the chops fat-side down on the griddle, leaning them up against each other for support. Cook for 4–5 minutes until the fat renders and becomes crisp, then lay the chops flat on their sides and cook for a further 3–5 minutes on each side, basting them with the rendered fat. Remove the chops from the pan and set aside to rest for 5 minutes. You may have to cook the lamb chops in batches.

  Combine the orzo with the peas and half of the mint dressing. Season well with salt and pepper.

  Serve the chops with the remaining mint dressing drizzled over the top, and the orzo salad on the side.

  Lamb Meatballs with Harissa and Sour Cream

  Lamb mince is packed full of flavour and richness, so I always have a packet on hand in the freezer for a quick meal. In summer, I like to serve these meatballs stuffed into pita breads or in tortilla wraps, with some finely shredded iceberg lettuce. In winter, they work well with brown rice, couscous or some good old mashed potato. Both the meatballs and sauce can be made ahead.

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  SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: ABOUT 15 MINUTES COOKING TIME: ABOUT 45 MINUTES

  2 tbsp vegetable oil

  2 tbsp rose harissa paste

  150g sour cream

  ¼ bunch of coriander, leaves chopped

  FOR THE MEATBALLS

  600g minced lamb

  1 onion, finely diced

  4 tbsp tomato ketchup

  2 tbsp drained capers in brine, chopped

  1 tbsp Dijon mustard

  2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

  1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves finely chopped

  50g dried breadcrumbs

  ½ tsp table salt

  1 egg, beaten

  FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE

  1 tbsp vegetable oil

  1 red onion, finely diced

  ½ tsp table salt

  2 tbsp white wine vinegar

  2 tbsp tomato purée

  400g tomato passata

  To make the meatballs, combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Divide the mix into 20 pieces and roll into balls.

  To make the tomato sauce, heat the vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat, add the diced red onion and salt and cook for about 10 minutes until soft. Add the vinegar and cook until it has evaporated, then mix in the tomato purée and passata and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

  Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.

  Heat the 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the meatballs and brown them for 5–7 minutes (in batches, so you don’t overcrowd the pan). Place the meatballs in a 20cm square baking dish that fits all the meatballs snugly, cover with the tomato sauce and bake for 15 minutes until bubbling.

  Mix the harissa paste, sour cream and coriander together and spoon the mixture over the meatballs when they come out of the oven.

  MARCUS’ TIP:

  You will notice tomato ketchup in a few mince recipes, which may surprise you. The tomatoes in ketchup add sweetness, a little acidity and richness. Used in moderation (it has a lot of sugar), it’s a simple way to add flavour.

  My dad’s business was selling basic fruit and potatoes – farmed produce grown by hardworking people. We bought it, looked after it and sold it. This chapter comes directly from my upbringing, in which waste was not allowed. This approach made me stand out from the crowd in professional kitchens. It’s about respecting ingredients and having a good understanding of their value. The process is the same – it’s just dressed up in a slightly different way in a professional kitchen. It’s crucial in the world in which we live that we only buy what we need, and that we cherish what we purchase. We mustn’t waste food or throw it away, and we shouldn’t look at it as if it’s cheap. If you regard produce as if someone’s made it and use it well, you can save a lot of money and really manage your spending.

  Potato, Thyme and Cheese Croquettes

  This is a great recipe for using up those old, soft potatoes lying in the bottom of your fridge or cupboard. And those small end pieces of cheese in the fridge, including blue cheese or soft cheese, can be used here too, for extra flavour.

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  SERVES: 6–8 AS A STARTER OR SIDE | PREP TIME: 40 MINUTES, PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR

  450g potatoes

  15g butter

  1 onion, finely diced

  1 tbsp thyme leaves, picked

  50g cheese, grated

  vegetable oil, for deep-frying

  sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  FOR THE CHEESE SAUCE

  250ml milk

  25g butter

  25g plain flour

  100g cheese of choice, grated

  1 tsp Dijon mustard

  2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

  FOR THE CRUMB

  40g plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper

  2 eggs, beaten

  100g dried breadcrumbs (panko or homemade from stale bread)

  Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.

  Scrub the potatoes, pierce them with a fork and place them on a baking tray. Bake in the oven for 35–40 minutes until soft. Slice open, in a cross formation, to allow the steam to escape. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh and pass it through a sieve, mouli or potato ricer into a bowl. Set aside.

  While the potatoes are baking, make the cheese sauce. Put the milk in a small saucepan. Gently bring to the boil over low heat. Melt the butter in a small saucepan and add the flour and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, over low heat for about 1 minute (avoid letting it brown). Add a ladle of the hot milk and stir to combine. Continue adding the milk a bit at a time until you have a thick sauce. Bring to a simme
r, then mix in the cheese, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Stir until melted. Cover and remove from the heat.

  Heat the 15g of butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 10 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Add the thyme, then add to the sauce with the grated cheese. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the mashed potato and mix well. Chill for 3 hours until firm. Using wet hands, form into balls, roughly 20g each, and chill for 20 minutes.

  While the croquettes are in the fridge, pour enough vegetable oil into a deep saucepan or deep-fat fryer to come up to about 5cm and place over medium heat. If using a deep-fat fryer or if you have a thermometer, heat the oil to 170°C. If not, to check the oil is at the right temperature, drop a 2–3cm cube of bread into the hot oil – it should turn golden and crisp in 1 minute.

  While the oil heats, put the crumb ingredients in 3 bowls. Coat the croquettes in the flour, then the egg, then a generous coating of crumbs. Chill (on a tray) for 10 minutes.

 

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