1¼ cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup medium-grind cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne
¾ cup buttermilk
¼ cup unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons sugar
2 eggs
1½ cups corn kernels, fresh or frozen
¾ cup jalapeño jelly or jam, preferably homemade ([>])
Makes 12 muffins
Preheat the oven to 375° F. Grease the muffin tins.
Sift together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and cayenne in a bowl, and set it aside. In another, larger bowl, beat together the buttermilk, butter, and sugar. Mix in the eggs, followed by the corn, blending well after each addition. Add the flour mixture, and stir to combine lightly.
Spoon about half of the batter—it will be a bit stiff—into the muffin tins, filling each cup just one-third full. Drop a dollop of jelly, about 1 teaspoon, on top of the batter in each cup. Top with the remaining batter, covering the jelly completely for each muffin.
Bake the muffins 22 to 24 minutes, until they are deep golden. Serve them warm.
* * *
Technique Tip
Jalapeño and other chile jellies lately seem to have passed oil wells in profitability, judging by the relative abundance of each. If you can find them, try the brands from the Travis County Farmers' Market and El Paso Chile Company, two of the best. The Stonewall Chili Pepper Company makes excellent hotter versions with serranos, chiles pequíns, and cayennes. All three brands can be delivered to your door; see "Mail-Order Sources" ([>]).
* * *
Gillespie County Peach Muffins
Richard West once said in Texas Monthly that you shouldn't worry if you were never promised a rose garden—a peach from Gillespie County would substitute nicely.
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
¾ teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon baking powder
2 eggs
¾ cup dark brown sugar
¾ cup oil, preferably half walnut and half canola
1 teaspoon vanilla
1¾ cups (about 2 large) chopped peaches
⅔ cup chopped pecans, toasted
¼ cup poppyseeds
Makes 12 muffins
Preheat the oven to 400° F. Grease the muffin tins.
Sift together the flour, cinnamon, ginger, salt, baking soda, and baking powder into a bowl, and set it aside. In another, larger bowl, beat together the eggs with the brown sugar, oil, and vanilla. Fold in the peaches, pecans, and poppyseeds. Add the flour mixture, and lightly stir to combine.
Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins. Bake the muffins 22 to 25 minutes, or until they are browned and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Serve the muffins warm or at room temperature.
* * *
Farmers first grew wheat commercially in Texas near Sherman in the 1830s. The acreage expanded greatly by the 1850s because of rapid settlement in the state and the introduction of a Mediterranean wheat that adapted well to the climate in north Texas. This made flour affordable for the first time, and biscuits soon took the place of cornbread in the state's diet.
* * *
Greer Garson's Garlic Muffins
While Dallas's Greer Garson is best known for her movies, she also deserves recognition as a muffin maker. This is a variation on one of her favorite recipes.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
¾ teaspoon salt
¾ cup milk
½ cup oil, preferably canola or corn (or substitute 1 to 2 tablespoons of garlic oil for an equal amount of regular oil)
3 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons minced chives
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
Makes 12 muffins
Preheat the oven to 400° F. Grease the muffin tins.
In a small skillet, warm the butter over medium heat. Sauté the garlic in the butter until it is tender, and reserve it.
Sift together the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt into a bowl, and set it aside. In another bowl, beat together the milk, oil, cream cheese, and eggs. Stir in the chives and the reserved garlic. Add the flour mixture, and gently stir to combine.
Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins, and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake the muffins 20 minutes, or until they are lightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Serve the muffins warm or at room temperature.
* * *
Even after his split with Bob Wills, "Pappy" O'Daniel continued to sell his Light Crust flour on country-music radio. His shows became popular entertainment during the Depression and eventually propelled him into the governor's office. He went from there to the U.S. Senate, defeating Lyndon Johnson for the seat in 1941, but he was never as preeminent in politics as he was in pitching flour.
* * *
Beans, 'Taters and Other Keepers
I can't remember when this love affair began. Perhaps it was the first time I looked into Hedy Lamarr's eyes. I was sitting in the front row of the theater, and she was on the silver screen.... The next time I looked into those eyes they were swimming in their natural juices and cozying up to hunks of backstrap. And even today, all these years later, I think of Hedy Lamarr every time I eat black-eyed peas.
Cactus Pryor, Inside Texas
Traditional Texas side dishes rely heavily on keepers—vegetables, legumes, and grains that don't require canning or refrigeration for a long shelf life. In addition to their staying power, these staples usually grow well in the state without a lot of fuss, and they make stalwart accompaniments to meaty main dishes. Black-eyed peas, pinto beans, white potatoes, sweet potatoes, onions, noodles, and rice were practical foods for pioneer folk, and over the generations they became Lone Star comfort foods, often eaten today alone or with a salad as a more-than-sufficient supper. These dishes are Texas love bites, the way to a mate's heart or just some good-time self-gratification.
Texas Caviar
Along with the pinto bean, the black-eyed pea is Texas's most-loved legume. Helen Corbitt, the mother of modern Texas cooking, prepared them like this. Her famous recipe didn't call for bell pepper, but green pepper and jalapeño are common additions today.
1 pound dried or frozen black-eyed peas
6 cups unsalted chicken stock
¾ cup corn oil, preferably unrefined
¼ cup cider vinegar, preferably unrefined
1 small green bell pepper, chopped
½ cup chopped sweet onion (such as Texas 1015, Vidalia, or Walla Walla) or ¼ cup regular onion
2 roasted garlic cloves ([>])
1 teaspoon coarse-ground black pepper
½ teaspoon salt, or more, to taste
Serves 4 to 6
In a large saucepan, cover the peas by at least 1 inch with stock. Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook the peas until they are tender, anywhere from 45 minutes to 1½ hours depending on your peas. (Frozen peas generally cook faster.) Stir occasionally, and add more stock or water if the peas begin to seem dry before they are done.
Drain the peas. In a large bowl, toss them together with the remaining ingredients. Refrigerate the peas, covered, at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. The peas get tastier over several days. Serve the peas chilled.
* * *
Some fancy-food eaters think of black-eyed peas as Southern backwoods fare. In truth they are a global delicacy, first cultivated in Asia eons ago. African slaves brought seeds to the New World in 1674 and the little pearls spread in a snap throughout the South.
> * * *
Black-Eyed Peas with Ham Hocks
This is an assertively seasoned version of the oldest, most popular way to cook black-eyed peas, a method imported to Texas from the Deep South.
2 pounds dried or frozen black-eyed peas
10
to
12 cups water
1 pound smoked ham hocks (1 or 2 hocks)
1½ medium onions, chopped
1 large green bell pepper, chopped
¼ cup cider or white vinegar
2 tablespoons pure liquid hickory smoke, optional
1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
½ teaspoon celery seeds
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon salt, or more, to taste
Serves 8 to 10
Put all the ingredients, except the salt, into a good-size stockpot, and bring them to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until the peas are very tender, but not mushy, about 45 minutes to 1½ hours. (Frozen peas generally cook faster.) Stir occasionally, adding more water if necessary. Add the salt toward the end of the cooking time, after the other flavors have mingled together. The peas should have some extra liquid when cooked, but they should not be soupy. Serve the peas warm. They keep for 5 to 7 days in the refrigerator, and they freeze well.
* * *
A traditional way of eating these black-eyed peas is to scoop them on top of cornbread and add a sprinkling of chopped onions. Serve Tabasco or another hot pepper sauce on the side.
* * *
Hoppin' John
Another Southern classic, Hoppin' John vaulted westward across the Sabine River all the way from the Carolinas. Everywhere the dish contains black-eyed peas and rice, but other seasonings vary with the locale and the cook. Most Texans make it a bit spicy, some adding dried chile and calling it "Hoppin' Juan." We like it that way, but we prefer the vinegar tang of Tabasco with the peas and rice.
1 pound dried or frozen black-eyed peas
6 cups unsalted chicken stock
1½ medium onions, chopped
1 medium green or red bell pepper, chopped
¼ pound salt pork, rinsed and diced
2 teaspoons cider vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
1½ teaspoons fresh-ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon salt, or more, to taste
Additional stock, as needed
1 cup uncooked rice
Serves 6 as a side dish or 4 as a main course
In a large saucepan, combine the black-eyed peas with the stock. Add the onions, bell pepper, salt pork, vinegar, garlic, bay leaves, pepper, Tabasco, thyme, and salt, and simmer until the peas are cooked through and soft. Don't let them get mushy. Expect the cooking time to be at least 45 minutes and up to 1½ hours. Frozen peas generally cook faster.
Drain the cooking liquid from the peas into a large measuring cup. You will need 2½ cups of liquid to cook the rice. Discard any extra liquid, or add stock to equal the 2½ cups. Pour the liquid back into the peas, add the rice to the pot, and simmer over medium heat 20 minutes or until the rice is cooked through. Remove the pan from the heat, and let the rice and peas steam with the lid on for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve the dish hot with more Tabasco or a pepper vinegar.
Marinated Rice, Black-Eyed Pea, and Corn Salad
In this salad, a trio of Texas favorites do-si-do smartly with a Southwestern dressing.
2 cups cooked rice
2 cups cooked black-eyed peas (see Texas Caviar, [>], for cooking instructions)
2 cups cooked corn kernels (roasted corn is especially good; see [>])
6 green onions, sliced thin
2
to
3 pickled jalapeños, minced
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons oil, preferably canola or corn
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon unsulphured dark molasses
1 teaspoon chili powder, preferably homemade ([>]) or Gebhardt's
½
to
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
¼ teaspoon salt, or more, to taste
Serves 6 to 8
In a large bowl, combine the rice, black-eyed peas, corn, onions, and jalapeños. In a lidded jar, mix together the remaining ingredients. Pour them over the rice mixture. Refrigerate the salad, covered, at least 2 hours, preferably twice that long. The salad keeps well for several days.
* * *
In his famous A Bowl of Red, Frank X. Tolbert tells about a friend's amazing diet, which included some days with only black-eyed peas. He drank black-eyed-pea pot likker for breakfast, with pepper sauce, and at noon he might have a pea cocktail and a sandwich spread with butter, onions, and cold peas. For dinner the friend pulled out all the stops, downing more pot likker and consuming a big bowl of peas with cornbread, butter, and buttermilk.
* * *
Cowpoke Pintos
Pinto beans have always been as popular in the western and southern parts of Texas as black-eyed peas were in the eastern and northern sections. Cowboys in particular thrived on chuck-wagon pintos. This zestier version adds some newer ingredients.
1 pound dried pinto beans, soaked overnight
8 cups water
12 ounces Coca-Cola
1 14½-ounce can whole tomatoes, undrained
1½ medium onions, chopped
2
to
3 cup tomato-based barbecue sauce
2
to
3 slices slab bacon, chopped
3 tablespoons chili powder, preferably homemade ([>]) or Gebhardt's
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
4 garlic cloves, minced
3
to
4 fresh serranos or 2 to 3 jalapeños, minced
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon salt, or more, to taste
Serves 4 to 6
In a Dutch oven or heavy stockpot, combine all the ingredients except the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Cook slowly, stirring up from the bottom occasionally, for at least 2 hours, adding more water if the beans begin to seem dry. Stir in the salt in the last few minutes of cooking. The beans should hold their shape but be soft and just a little soupy. Serve them in bowls with a bit of the cooking liquid.
* * *
The Coca-Cola in the recipe adds flavor, but it also purportedly helps to reduce the gaseous effect of beans. Other ingredients you can use when serving beans to company include carrots and epazote, an herb that's also called mexican tea. Nothing much works if you go dancing afterward.
* * *
Wayne's Wonderful $50 Beans
This is the ultimate way to cook pinto beans, definitely extravagant and definitely worth it. We got the idea from Houston barbecue wizard Wayne Whitworth, president of Pitt's and Spitt's. His company's address is in "Mail-Order Sources" ([>]), in case you're compelled to send a thank-you card—which is likely, after you taste these jewels.
1 smoked bone-in ham, about 10 pounds
⅓ cup coarse-ground black pepper
3 pounds pinto beans, soaked overnight
2 onions, chopped
12 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
1 tablespoon dried epazote ("Mexican tea")
Salt to taste
Serves 12
Thoroughly rub down the ham with the pepper, massaging it into every pore. Let the ham sit for at least an hour, or refrigerate it overnight.
Place the ham in a large stockpot. Fill the pot with water to cover the ham by several inches. Let the pot simmer over low heat about half a day, covered, until the meat literally falls apart.
Remove the ham and bone, and reserve the meat for another use. Add the pintos an
d the rest of the ingredients, except the salt, to the broth. Barely simmer the beans for 3 to 4 hours, stirring them occasionally, until they are quite soft but still hold their shape. Add a little more water if the beans begin to look dry. Stir in the salt in the last few minutes of the cooking time. The pintos can be kept warm for another hour, covered, over very low heat. Serve the beans hot.
* * *
Technique Tip
When cooking beans, stir them up from the bottom frequently for the creamiest results. Never stir up any beans, however, that are stuck to the bottom of the pan. Forget about those beans, and salvage the rest by pouring them into another pot. Begin cooking again with a little more water.
* * *
Hart Stilwell's Baked Beans
This recipe goes back originally to Hart Stilwell, the frontier novelist, who made a rough version of these beans over campfires on hunting and fishing trips. Marie Riha, who lived in Alamo, Texas, refined the dish for household use and passed it along to her daughter, Frances Poteet. The beans are sweetly delicious. If you don't have a Texan's sweet tooth, reduce the amount of brown sugar a bit.
Texas Home Cooking Page 33
