Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South
EmperorHOTEL$$
(皇家驿站, Huángjiā Yìzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6701 7790; www.theemperor.com.cn; 87 Xianyukou St, Qianmen Commercial Centre, 前门商业区鲜鱼口街87号 r ¥700; aWs; bQianmen)
Brand new, this modernist hotel comes with a spa and a rooftop pool that enables you to laze in the sun while enjoying fine views over nearby Tiān'ānmén Sq. The cool, all-white rooms aren't huge, but the price is reasonable for a hotel of this quality and the location is perfect. Service is attentive and the atmosphere laid-back.
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng
Yoyo HotelHOTEL$
(优优客酒店, Yōuyōu Kèjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6417 3388; www.yoyohotel.cn; Bldg 10 Dongsanjie Erjie, 三里屯北路东三街二街中10楼 r ¥369-399; aiW; bLine 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit A)
There's a boutique feel here, but the rooms, especially bathrooms, are tiny. Nevertheless, they are excellent value for the location and fine if you're not planning on spending too much time in the hotel. Staff members speak some English and are friendly considering how rushed off their feet they usually are.
oRosewood BěijīngBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(北京瑰丽酒店, Běijīng Guīlì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6597 8888; www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/beijing; Jing Guang Centre, East 3rd Middle Ring Rd, 呼家楼京广中心 r from ¥2000; aWs; bLine 10 to Jintaixizhao, exit A, or Lines 6, 10 to Hujialou, exit D)
The elegant Rosewood fits modern luxury within a traditional Chinese design that incorporates decorative arts and a subtle yin-and-yang theme throughout. Its entry gate leaves a striking first impression with two large Jiao Tu (Sons of Dragon) sculptures that guard the hotel. The art-filled rooms are massive, with designer furniture, TV mirrors and automatic blinds that open to views of the iconic CCTV building.
As well as the Mei Bar (魅酒吧; Mèi Jiǔbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://mei-bar.com; 5th fl, Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre; 呼家楼京广中心北京瑰丽酒店5层 h6pm-2am Mon-Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun; W; bLine 10 to Jintaixizhao, exit A or Lines 6, 10 to Hujialou, exit D), its classy Country Kitchen restaurant is acclaimed for its Peking duck. There's also its elegant Sense Spa, and a glassed-roof swimming pool, candlelit at night and surrounded by lush plants.
oOpposite House HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(瑜舍, Yúshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6417 6688; www.theoppositehouse.com; Bldg 1, Village, 11 Sanlitun Lu, 三里屯路11号院1号楼 r from ¥2500; naiWs; bLine 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit A, or Agricultural Exhibition Center, exit D2)
With see-all open-plan bathrooms, American oak bath-tubs, lovely mood lighting, underfloor heating, sliding doors, complimentary beers, TVs on extendable arms and a metal basin swimming pool, this trendy Swire-owned boutique hotel is top-drawer chic. The location is ideal for shopping, restaurants and drinking. No obvious sign. Just walk into the striking green glass cube of a building and ask.
Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North
Siheju Courtyard HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %186 1145 8911; 12 Xisi Beiertiao, 西四北二条12号 dm ¥130, r ¥450-700; bLine 4 to Xisi, exit A)
Down an atmospheric hútòng, you'll definitely feel like you're in Běijīng at this wonderful little hostel full of traditional charm and character. Rooms are clean, beds are comfortable and dorms have their own bathrooms. Staff are super friendly and speak good English. To find it, walk north on Xisi Beidajie from Xisi metro; it’s two hútòng up on the left.
oGraceland YardCOURTYARD HOTEL$$
(觉品酒店, Juepin Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8328 8366; www.graceland-yardhotel.com; 9 Zhengjue Hutong, 正觉胡同9号 s/d/ste ¥666/799/999; iW; bLine 2 to Jishuitan, exit C)
Graceland is an exquisitely renovated courtyard hotel, housed within the grounds of the abandoned, 500-year-old Zhèngjué Temple. Each of the eight rooms is slightly different – there are singles, doubles, twins, a couple of fabulous loft rooms and a suite – but each is decorated with style, using traditional Buddhist-themed furnishings. There's no restaurant – not even breakfast – but you're not short of eateries in the surrounding hútòng.
Shíchàhǎi Sandalwood Boutique HotelHúTòNG HOTEL$$$
(什刹海紫檀酒店, Shíchàhǎi Zǐtán Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8322 6686; www.sch-hotel.com; 42 Xinghua Hutong, 兴华胡同42号 r ¥600-1300; aW; bLine 6 to Beihai North, exit A)
A five minute walk from its sister hotel Shíchàhǎi Shadow Art Hotel (什刹海皮影酒店; Shíchàhǎi Píyǐng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8328 7847, 136 8303 2251; www.shichahaitour.com; 24 Songshu Jie; 松树街24号 tw & d incl breakfast ¥630-994; bLine 6 to Beihai North, exit A), the Sandalwood has an atmospheric hutong location and decor full of traditional charm. Good deals are available from online booking sites. Note the cheapest rooms don't have windows.
Dashilar & Xīchéng South
Qiánmén HostelHOSTEL$
(前门客栈, Qiánmén Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6313 2369, 010 6313 2370; www.qianmenhostel.net; 33 Meishi Jie, 煤市街 33号 dm ¥60-80, r without/with bathroom ¥200/280; aiW; bLine 2 to Qianmen, exit B or C)
A five-minute trot southwest of Tiān’ānmén Sq, this heritage hostel with a cool courtyard offers a relaxing environment with able staff. The rooms are simple and not big but, like the dorms, they are clean, as are the shared bathrooms. Despite the busy location, this is an easy place to switch off and appreciate the high ceilings, original woodwork and charming antique buildings.
An affable old-hand, hostel owner Genghis Kane does his best to keep his standards high. Great Wall tours can be arranged.
365 InnHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6308 5956; 55 Dazhalan Xijie, 大栅栏西街55号 dm ¥55-100, d ¥200-250; aiW; bLine 2 to Qianmen, exit B or C)
An old-school backpackers, 365 Inn has a social atmosphere with a downstairs pub that makes it one of Běijīng's best for meeting fellow travellers. It also scores points for its prime location that brings you walking distance to most sights. Dorms are your typical crammed-in bunk beds, though private rooms are surprisingly spacious. Reception's often understaffed, but the team are friendly and helpful.
Qiánmén Jiànguó HotelHOTEL$$
(前门建国饭店, Qiánmén Jiànguó Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6301 6688; www.hotelsjianguo.com/qianmenhotel; 175 Yong’an Lu, 永安路 175号 r from ¥800; naiW; bLine 7 to Hufangqiao, exit C)
Elegant in parts and popular with tour groups, this refurbished hotel with a vague Peking-opera theme has pushed up its prices to reflect its makeover. Business is brisk, so the staff are on their toes, and the rooms are spacious, bright and well maintained and a reasonable deal with the generous discounts (up to 50% off). Some English spoken.
You can find the Líyuán Theatre to the right of the domed atrium at the rear of the hotel.
Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn
oAman at Summer PalaceHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(颐和安缦, Yíhé Ānmàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 5987 9999; www.amanresorts.com; 1 Gongmen Qianjie, 宫门前街 1号 r ¥3000, courtyard r ¥4800, ste ¥5600-8400; naiWs; bXiyuan)
Hard to fault this exquisite hotel, a candidate for best in Běijīng. It's located around the corner from the Summer Palace – parts of the hotel date to the 19th century and were used to house distinguished guests waiting for audiences with Empress Cixi. The big rooms are superbly appointed, and contained in a series of picture-perfect pavilions set around courtyards.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following price ranges represent a standard double room per night.
$ less than ¥400
$$ ¥400–¥1000
$$$ more than ¥1000
EATING
The following price ranges represent the cost of a meal for one person.
$ less than ¥40
$$ ¥40–100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
Běijīng is a magnificent place for culinary adventures. With upwards of 60,000 restau
rants here, you can enjoy the finest local dishes, as well as eating your way through every region of China. Some of your most memorable Běijīng experiences will take place around the dining table. So do as the locals do – grab those chopsticks and dive in.
Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central
oCrescent Moon Muslim RestaurantXINJIANG$
(新疆弯弯月亮维吾尔穆斯林餐厅, Xīnjiāng Wānwānyuèliàng Wéiwú’ěr Mùsīlín Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Dongsi Liutiao Hutong, 东四六条胡同16号, 东四北大街 dishes from ¥18; h11am-11pm; aW; bLine 5 to Zhangzizhonglu, exit C)
You can find a Chinese Muslim restaurant on almost every street in Běijīng. Most are run by Huí Muslims, who are Hàn Chinese, rather than ethnic-minority Uighurs from the remote western province of Xīnjiāng. Crescent Moon is the real deal – owned and staffed by Uighurs, it attracts many Běijīng-based Uighurs and people from Central Asia, as well as a lot of Western expats.
It’s more expensive than most other Xīnjiāng restaurants in Běijīng, but the food is consistently good, and it has an English menu. The speciality is the barbecued leg of lamb (¥128). The lamb skewers (¥6) are also delicious, and there's naan bread (¥5), homemade yoghurt (¥12) and plenty of noodle options (¥18 to ¥25). You can also get Xīnjiāng tea (¥30 per pot), beer (¥15) and wine (¥95).
Chuān BànSICHUAN$
(川办餐厅 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Dongzongbu Hutong, off Chaoyangmen Nanxiaojie, 朝阳门南小街东总部胡同28号 dishes from ¥20; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat & Sun; bLines 1, 2 to Jianguomen, exit A)
Every Chinese province has its own official building in Běijīng, complete with a restaurant for cadres and locals working in the capital who are pining for a taste of home. Often they’re the most authentic places for regional cuisines. This restaurant in the Sìchuān Government Offices is always crowded and serves up just about every variety of Sìchuān food you could want.
Wángfǔjǐng Snack StreetSTREET FOOD$
(王府井小吃街, Wángfǔjǐng Xiǎochījiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; west off Wangfujing Dajie, 王府井大街西侧 dishes & snacks ¥10; h9.30am-10pm; bLine 1 to Wangfujing, exit C2)
Fronted by an ornate archway, this pedestrianised lane is lined with cheap and cheerful food stalls that are always busy. There are dishes from all over China, including málà tàng (a spicy soup from Sìchuān) and zhájiàngmiàn (Běijīng noodles in fried bean sauce), savoury pancakes, oodles of noodles and novelty items such as scorpion skewers. Not all stalls have prices listed, but most things cost around ¥10 for a portion.
oLittle YúnnánYUNNAN$$
(小云南, Xiǎo Yúnnán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6401 9498; 28 Donghuang Chenggen Beijie, 东皇城根北街28号 mains ¥26-60; h10am-10pm; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit B or Line 5 to Zhangzizhonglu, exit D)
Run by young, friendly staff and housed in a cute courtyard conversion, Little Yúnnán is one of the more down-to-earth Yúnnán restaurants in Běijīng. The main room has a rustic feel to it, with wooden beams, flooring and furniture. The tables up in the eaves are fun, and there's also some seating in the small open-air courtyard by the entrance.
Dishes include some classic southwest China ingredients, with some tea-infused creations as well as river fish, mushroom dishes, fried goat's cheese and là ròu (腊肉; cured pork – south China's answer to bacon). It also serves a variety of Yúnnán wines (rice, pine and plum), rice-wine-based cocktails and the province's local beer.
Din Tai FungDUMPLINGS$$
(鼎泰丰, Dǐng Tài Fēng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6512 8019; www.dintaifung.com.cn; 6th fl, Beijing apm shopping mall, 138 Wangfujing Dajie, 王府井大街138号apm6楼 5/10 dumplings from ¥25/49; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri-Sun; aW; bLine 1 to Wangfujing, exit C2 or Line 5 to Dengshikou)
One of several Běijīng branches of this world-famous Taiwainese dumpling house.
oTemple Restaurant BitesEUROPEAN$$$
(TRB; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8400 2232; www.trb-cn.com; 95 Donghuamen Dajie, 东华门大街95号 3/4/5 courses ¥198/258/298; h11.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-10pm Sat & Sun; bLine 1 to Tian'anmen East, exit A)
A peerless location, housed in a Qing dynasty building beside the Forbidden City moat, Ignace Lecleir's new offering is a more casual version of his upmarket Temple Restaurant (嵩祝寺餐厅; Sōngzhù Sì Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8400 2232; www.trb-cn.com; Sōngzhù Temple, 23 Shatanbei Jie, off Wusi Dajie; 五四大街沙滩北街23号, 嵩祝寺 3/4/5/6 courses ¥388/488/588/688; h11am-3pm & 5.30-11pm; aW; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit B or Lines 5, 6 to Dongsi, exit E). The service is flawless, and the contemporary European food – salmon, lobster, pigeon, veal – is sheer quality. Here you order by customising your own meals, picking three or more items from whatever section of the menu takes your fancy.
Reservations are recommended, especially if you want a table overlooking the moat (the walls beside it are lit up in the evening). There's rooftop terrace seating in the warmer months.
oBěijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck RestaurantPEKING DUCK$$$
(北京大董烤鸭店, Běijīng Dàdǒng Kǎoyādiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8522 1111; 5th fl Jinbao Place, 88 Jinbao Jie, 金宝街88号金宝汇购物中心5层 roast duck half/whole ¥134/268; h11am-10pm; aW; bLine 5 to Dengshikou, exit C)
Ultramodern Dàdǒng sells itself on being the only restaurant that serves Peking duck with all the flavour of the classic imperial dish, but less fat – the leanest roast duck in the capital. For some, it’s hideously overpriced and far from authentic. For others, it’s the best roast-duck restaurant in China.
EATING BY NEIGHBOURHOOD
AForbidden City & Dōngchéng Central Foreign places, dumpling joints and Sìchuān.
ADrum Tower & Dōngchéng North Courtyard restaurants, vegetarian and hotpot on Ghost St.
ATemple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South Peking duck and Western food.
ABěihǎi Park & Xīchéng North Local and foreign places around Hòuhǎi Lakes.
ADashilar & Xīchéng South Muslim food around Nuijie Mosque.
ASānlǐtún & Cháoyáng Largest selection of foreign and fusion restaurants.
ASummer Palace & Hǎidiàn Korean and Japanese eateries in Wǔdàokǒu.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
oPunk Rock NoodlesNOODLES$
(鼓楼吃面, Gǔlóu Chīmiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8402 3180; 25 Donggong Jie, Loudong Dajie, 鼓楼东大街东公街25号 noodles from ¥25; hnoon-2am; bLine 5 to Beixinqiao, exit A)
Run by owner Ma Yue, and her merry staff of punk rockers, this restaurant is equally popular with workers and students as it with skinheads, all drawn by the delicious hand-pulled noodles. It also does inventive dishes such as 'Punk's Not Dead' with sliced ox tongue, enjoyed by hard-core punk band the Exploited upon their visit. Tables are decked out in gingham and walls decorated in punk memorabilia.
It's a good place for a drink too, especially for its ¥10 cocktail happy hour (9pm to 10pm). Most staff are connected to the local Oi! punk band Misandao, whose frontman (and restaurant co-owner), Lei Jun, sadly passed away in 2015.
Zhāng MāmaSICHUAN$
(张妈妈特色川味馆, Zhāng Māma Tèsè Chuānwèiguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 76 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, 交道口南大街76号 mains ¥10-20; h11am-10.30pm; bLine 5 to Beixinqiao, exit A)
The original Zhāng Māma, on nearby Fensiting Hutong, was such a hit with Beijingers that the owners were forced to also open this new, larger branch with two floors. At the smaller, original branch you have to wait up to an hour for a table. Here, they've cut that down to about 15 minutes. It's worth the wait. This is arguably Běijīng's best-value Sichuanese restaurant.
The speciality is málà xiāngguō (麻辣香锅; ¥48 to ¥58), a fiery, chilli-laced broth with either chicken (香锅鸡; xiāngguō jī), prawns (香锅虾; xiāngguō xiā) or ribs (香锅排骨; xiāngguō páigǔ) simmering away inside, and with a variety of vegetables added into the mix. One pot is enough for two or three people. A
lso worth trying here is the dàndàn miàn (担担面; spicy dry noodles; ¥8) and the rice meals; the classic being the gōngbào jīdīng gàifàn (宫爆鸡丁盖饭; spicy chicken with peanuts; ¥12), which is lip-tinglingly delicious, thanks to the generous sprinkling of Sìchuān peppercorns. No English menu, so don't be shy about pointing to what fellow diners are eating. Chances are it'll be spicy, but delicious.
Bǎihé Vegetarian RestaurantCHINESE$$
(百合素食, Bǎihé Sùshí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 23 Caoyuan Hutong, 东直门内北小街草园胡同甲23号 mains ¥25-60, tea per cup/pot from ¥25/45; h11am-10pm; v; bLines 2, 13 to Dongzhimen, exit A, or Line 5 to Beixinqiao, exit B)
This peaceful, tastefully furnished, courtyard restaurant, which also serves as a delightful teahouse, has a wonderful air of serenity – it's not uncommon to see monks from nearby Lama Temple coming here for a pot of tea. The all-vegetarian menu (with English translations) includes imaginative mock-meat dishes as well as more conventional vegetable dishes and a range of tasty noodles.
With courteous service, this is one of Běijīng’s more soothing dining experiences. There’s also a separate and extensive tea menu – customers are welcome to come here just to sample the tea. To get here, walk north on Dongzhimen Beixiaojie from the junction with Ghost Street for 100m, then turn left into the first hútòng. The restaurant is on the right, although the sign is in Chinese only.
Lonely Planet China Page 14
