Liáoníng BīnguǎnHOTEL$$$
(辽宁宾馆, Liaoning Hotel MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %024 2383 9104; 97 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路97号 r incl breakfast from ¥458; aiW)
This grand dame dates back to 1927 and is perched across from Mao's statue at busy Zhongshan Sq. The Chairman himself stayed here and it retains many of its period details – the marbled lobby and central stairwell are particularly impressive. Rooms are comfortable but could use an update. The outdoor patio serves beer on sunny days. Discounts up to 50% available.
Shěnyáng, Liáoníng | APHOTOSTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
5Eating
Both the north and main train stations are cheap-restaurant zones. You’ll also find lots of reasonably priced restaurants around the Imperial Palace. Most have picture menus. For a kimchi fix head to Korea Town (西塔; Xītǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xita Jie; 西塔街 ) on Xita Jie. There are supermarkets at the base of most malls, and a Carrefour Supermarket (家乐福; Jiālèfú MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 39 Beizhan Yilu; 北站一路39号 h8.30am-9.30pm) is beside the long-distance bus station.
oMěijīn HotpotHOTPOT$$
(美津火锅, Měijīn Huǒguō MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Taiyuan Jie & Bei Sanma Lu, 太原街北三马路的路口 ingredients ¥3-22; h10.30am-2am)
This popular hotpot chain teems with the energy of dozens of diners chowing down on everything from vegies to meat and noodles. Friendly staff can help explain ingredients on the incredibly diverse English menu.
Lǎobiān DumplingsDUMPLINGS$$
(老边饺子馆, Lǎobiān Jiǎoziguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, 208 Zhong Jie Lu, 中街路208号2楼 dumplings ¥16-60; h10am-10pm; aWv)
Shěnyáng’s most famous restaurant has been packing in the locals since 1829. It might be resting on its laurels a little, but punters continue to flock here for the boiled, steamed and fried dumplings in an array of flavours: from abalone to cabbage and even curry and plenty of vegetarian options in the picture menu.
The restaurant is on the 2nd floor of the Lǎobiān Hotel, just across from the B1 exit of Zhong Jie metro station.
View & World Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$$
(宽巷子素菜馆, Kuān Xiàngzi Sùcàiguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %024 2284 1681; 202 Shiyi Wei Lu, 十一纬路202号 dishes ¥12-168; h10am-10.30pm; v)
Peking duck and meatballs are on the menu here, but there won’t be any actual meat on your plate. Everything is meat-free at this classy nearly vegan paradise, which claims to be the only non-MSG restaurant in all of northeast China (an astonishing claim if true).
The restaurant is on one of Shěnyáng’s busy eating streets and you’ll find much to sample nearby, including real Peking duck, if you so desire.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are bars ranging from glossy to homely on Zhongshan Lu east of Zhongshan Sq. Join the loud crowds in Korea Town on Xita Jie for some cheap and potent soju.
Lenore'sBAR
(丽纳尔斯咖啡馆和酒吧, Lìnà'ěrsī Kāfēiguǎn Hé Jiǔbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %024 2285 7983; 60 Beiwu Malu, 北五马路60号 drinks ¥28-48; h11am-midnight; W)
A rarity in Shenyang: a cafe/bar with real personality. The homely vintage design and friendly English-speaking staff draw a youthful crowd for good cocktails, wine, local and imported beers, coffee, and a Chinese take on Western food (¥25-48). Softly spoken Michael in his cowboy hat is a real, inviting character.
Stroller’sBAR
(流浪者餐厅, Liúlàngzhě Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %024 2287 6677; 36 Beiwu Jing Jie, 北五经街36号 drinks from ¥25, food ¥40-170; h11.30am-2am; W)
This long-running atmospheric pub is especially popular with expats and has a decent imported beer selection and the usual pub grub. Take Exit B of Nan Shichang Station, cross the road and head up the side street 150m.
7Shopping
Zhong JieSHOPPING STREET
(中街, Zhōng Jiē )
This street, near the Imperial Palace, is a popular pedestrianised shopping zone. It stretches across both sides of Chaoyang Jie. Expect glossy malls with all manner of shops (local and international) and restaurants.
Taiyuan JieSHOPPING STREET
(太原街步行街, Tàiyuán Jiē Bùxíng Jiē )
Near the Main Train Station is Taiyuan Jie, one of Shěnyáng’s major shopping streets, with department stores and an extensive underground shopping street (mostly small clothing boutiques).
8Information
ATMs can be found all over the city and around Zhongshan Sq.
The Bank of China has ATMS and currency exchange at Government Sq ( GOOGLE MAP ; 253 Shifu Dalu) and Zhonghua Lu (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 96 Zhonghua Lu; 中化路96号 ).
North Korean ConsulateCONSULATE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %024 8685 2742; 37 Beiling Dajie, 北陵大街37号 )
North Korea visas are more likely to be obtained at the North Korean embassy in Běijīng.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng'ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %024 2253 4850; Zhongshan Guangchang, 中山广场 )
There's also a visa office opposite the entrance of the North Tomb.
The 72-Hour Visa-Free Transit policy allows passport holders of many countries a stopover in Shěnyáng without arranging a visa before arrival.
8Getting There & Away
Large hotels can help book airline and train tickets, as can the China Travel Service of Shenyang (沈阳市中国旅行社; Shěnyáng Shì Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %137 0000 0681; 1 Shifu Dalu; 市府大路1号 h8.30am-5pm).
Air
Shěnyáng Táoxiān International Airport keeps growing its destinations, with flights to South Korea, Japan, Thailand, Australia, Germany and Russia as well as the following domestic cities:
ABěijīng ¥900, 1½ hours
AShànghǎi ¥1000, two hours
Bus
The south long-distance bus station (沈阳长途客运南站; Shěnyáng Chángtú Kèyùn Nánzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) is adjacent to the Main Train Station from the east exit. The north long-distance express bus station (沈阳快速客运站, Shěnyáng Kuàisù Kèyùn Zhàn GOOGLE MAP ; 120 Huigong Jie; 惠工街120号 ) is south of Beizhan Lu, about a five-minute walk from the North Train Station and next to the Carrefour Supermarket. Schedules are available at the information counter as you walk in. You are much better off taking a train to Běijīng. Buses service the following destinations from the north bus station unless stated otherwise:
ABěijīng ¥140, eight hours, 9am (south station at 2pm)
AChángchūn ¥66, 3½ hours, at least hourly (7am to 5pm)
ADàlián ¥94, 4½ hours, every 1½ hours (9am to 4.30pm)
ADāndōng ¥76, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes (7am to 7pm)
AHā’ěrbīn ¥129, 6½ hours, six daily, 8am-3.30pm
AXīngchéng ¥77, 4½ hours, 8.50am and 3.40pm
Train
Shěnyáng’s major train stations are the North Train Station (沈阳北站; Shěnyáng Běi Zhàn) and Main Train Station (沈阳站; Shěnyáng Zhàn; also known by the old 'South Station' name Shěnyáng Nánzhàn). Many trains arrive at one station, stop briefly, then travel to the next. It may be different when departing – always confirm which station you need. Buy sleeper or G/D train tickets (to Běijīng or Shànghǎi) as far in advance as possible. Bus 262 runs between the North and Main Train Stations, or take the metro.
Main Train Station
ABáihé (for Chángbái Shān) Hard/soft sleeper ¥179/274, 13 to 14 hours, two daily (6.54pm and 8.18pm)
ABěijīng (D/G train) ¥206/295, five/four hours, frequent
ADàlián (D, G train) ¥174, two hours
ADāndōng (D, G train) ¥70 1½ hours, frequent
AHarbin (D, G train) ¥247, two to three hours
AXīngchéng Hard seat ¥54, four to five hours
North Train Station
ABěijīng (D/G train) ¥206/295, five/four hours, frequent
ABěijīng Hard seat/sleeper ¥98/193, six to 10 hours
A
Chángchūn (D/G train) ¥115/136, 2½/1½ hours
ADàlián (D, G train) ¥176, two hours
ADāndōng (D, G train) ¥73, 1½ hours, four daily
AHarbin (D/G train) ¥166/245, 3/2½ hours
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The airport is 25km south of the city. Shuttle buses ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Zhonghua Lu & Heping Dajie; 中化路和平大街的路口 ¥17) leave from an alley just before the intersection of Zhonghua Lu and Heping Dajie, and from the Shěnyáng south long-distance bus station, or Shěnyáng north long-distance bus station. Taxis cost ¥80.
Most travellers won't venture south of the river, but if you do, the modern Line 2 tram is a leisurely way to travel between the airport and the Olympic Centre.
Bus
Buses are cheap, frequent and cover the city, but the Metro is easier to navigate.
Subway
With only two lines (Line 1 running east–west and Line 2 running north–south) and one connecting station, the clean and relaxed Shěnyáng Metro system is easy to figure out, even with the planned expansions. There are stops at both the north and main train stations as well as the North Tomb and Zhong Jie (for the Imperial Palace). The average ride costs ¥2 to ¥4. Stations have public toilets.
Taxi
Taxi flagfall starts at ¥9.
Xīngchéng 兴城
%0429 / Pop 560,000
Despite having a bevy of talking points – it's one of only four Ming dynasty cities to retain its complete outer walls, it has the oldest surviving temple in all of northeastern China and it's an up-and-coming beach resort – Xīngchéng (兴城) has stayed well off most travellers' radars. Yes, it’s still a bit dusty and rough round the edges, but conditions are improving and historians and aficionados will have a field day here.
1Sights
oXīngchéng Old CityHISTORIC SITE
(兴城古城, Xīngchéng Gǔ Chéng h24hr, sights 8am-5pm)F
Standing like a miniature of the better-known ancient city of Píngyáo (albeit less polluted or glossy…in a good way), this walled city dates back to 1430 and is the principal reason to visit Xīngchéng.
In addition to the City Walls (城墙, Chéngqiáng Old City; ¥25; h8am-5pm), the Drum Tower (钟鼓楼; Zhōng Gǔlóu Old City; ¥20; h8am-5pm), which sits slap in the middle of the Old City with 360-degree views, and the watchtower, on the southeastern corner of the city, are all intact. You can do a complete circuit of the walls in around an hour.
The Old City is home to around 3000 people with stores for daily life. Also inside the Old City is the Gao House (将军府; Jiāngjūn Fǔ Old City; ¥10; h8am-5pm), the former residence of General Gao Rulian, who is one of Xīngchéng’s most famous sons. The impressive and well-maintained Confucius Temple (文庙; Wénmiào Old City; ¥35; h8am-5pm), built in 1430, is reputedly the oldest temple in northeastern China.
You can enter the Old City by any of four gates, but the easiest one to find is the South Gate (南门; Nánmén), which is just off Xinghai Nan Jie Duan at a large intersection. There are signs in English and Chinese pointing the way and maps at each gate. If you plan on seeing everything, buy the ¥100 pass that grants admission to every paid sight within the walled town.
Xīngchéng BeachBEACH
(海滨浴场, Hǎibīn Yùchǎng )
Xīngchéng’s beach is pretty enough, with OK sands and calm waters, neat paths, a small park, pagoda over the water, and a boardwalk in some parts.
Bus 1 (¥1) travels from the bus station through Xinghai Lu to the beach (9km from the city centre) in about 30 minutes. A taxi to the area costs ¥15 to ¥20.
4Sleeping
Cheap hotels immediately around the train station won’t accept foreigners. The beach is a good place to stay in summer with many of the larger hotels accepting foreigners. Note that rooms in ordinary beach hotels go for hundreds a night during the peak season. When it's cold, you're better off staying closer to the train station near restaurants.
7 Days InnHOTEL$
(7天酒店温泉街店 %0429 5167 878; 109 Xinghai Nanjie, 兴海南街109号 d ¥197; paiW)
One of the few modern, budget options between the train station and Xīngchéng Beach (with Bus 1 outside). Rooms are large and clean with flat-screen TVs, and higher levels are peaceful, despite facing busy Xinghai Nanjie. There are KTV joints and a few late-night budget restaurants nearby. Discounts available.
Hǎiyì Holiday HotelHOTEL$$
(海逸假日酒店, Hǎiyì Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn %0429 541 0000; 21 Haibin Lu, 海滨路21号 r & cabins ¥350-400; ai)
Set just off the beach beside a park, Hǎiyì has decent (if small) rooms and a good in-house restaurant. Better yet, stay in one of the cute cabins clustered under leafy trees. Off-peak discounts bring rooms to the ¥200 range, even cheaper without a window. To get here, turn left when you hit the beach strip and walk 300m.
Jīn Zhǒng Zi BīnguǎnHOTEL$$
(金种子宾馆 %0429 352 1111; 9 Xinghai Lu Yi Duan, 兴海路一段9号 r from ¥398; aiW)
Right in the heart of the city on a busy intersection of Xinghai Lu Yi Duan and Xinghai Nanjie, this hotel offers comfortable rooms and a good attached restaurant (dishes from ¥16 to ¥36). With the standard discount, a double goes for around ¥200.
5Eating
Seafood is big here. At beachfront restaurants you can pick your crustacean or fish from the tanks. Prices vary according to the season, so ask before eating. Most beach hotels have restaurants with picture menus and fair prices.
Many hotel restaurants serve an excellent range of seafood, meat and vegetable dishes. The busy street leading from the South Gate to the main Xinghai Nanjie is lined with stalls serving noodles, barbecued meats and vegetables. In winter most restaurants not attached to hotels stay closed.
Sìchuān Málà NoodlesSICHUAN$
(四川麻辣面, Sìchuān Málà Miàn %0429 3915 583; 93 Xinghai Nanjie, 兴海南街93号 mains ¥7-12)
From outside this simple restaurant, you may not realise that there is very good Sìchuān style málà miàn (spicy and numbing noodle soup) on offer. The photo board looks like there are lots of options, but it's just variations of meat or seafood. They make their own dumplings too. It's opposite a dozen flashing KTV signs.
Happy Family MallFOOD HALL$
(大家庭, Dàjiātíng cnr Xinghai Nanjie & Yan Hui Lu, 兴海南街和延辉路的路口 dishes from ¥10; h9am-9pm; a)
For respite from the busy intersection near the South Gate, head to the food court on the 5th floor of the Happy Family Mall where you'll find delicious handmade bāozǐ and other Chinese staples.
8Getting There & Away
Xīngchéng is a frequent stop on the Běijīng–Harbin line. It can be easier to get a bus than a train to Běijīng (all but the 2.04pm take over seven hours or run in the wee hours), but head to Jǐnzhōu south station for comfortable D trains to major cities. Note that buses and trains from Xīngchéng go to the main station in the nearby city of Jǐnzhōu; there are buses (¥5, 30 minutes) to the south station out front.
Bus
Xīngchéng’s bus station (兴城市客运站; Xīngchéngshì Kèyùn Zhàn) is just to the left of the train station.
ABěijīng ¥127, five hours, 9am
ADàlián ¥124, five hours, 9.30am
AJǐnzhōu Slow/fast bus ¥19/21, two/1½ hours, every 30 minutes (6.30am to 3.50pm)
AShěnyáng ¥72, 3½ hours, five daily
Train
ABěijīng Seat/sleeper ¥65/125, five to eight hours, five daily
AJǐnzhōu Seat ¥13, one hour, regular
AShānhǎiguān Seat ¥19, 1½ hours, regular
AShěnyáng Seat ¥47, four to five hours, regular
8Getting Around
You can catch a ferry to Júhuā Island. Ferries depart the northern end of Xīngchéng Beach at 8.30am, 10am, 11.30am, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm. Return trips are at 1pm, 2.30pm, 3.30pm and 5pm. Frequency drops outside of these summer hours.
Bus 1 (¥1) is
the only local bus you're likely to need. It runs from out front of the train and bus stations, along Xinghai Nanjie near Xīngchéng Old City South Gate, terminating at Xīngchéng Beach on the 35-minute trip.
A taxi from the train station to the beach costs ¥15 to ¥20.
Jílín
Changbai Shan Nature Reserve
Yanji
Ji'an
Beidahu Ski Resort
Changchun
Jílín
pop 27.46 million
Why Go?
A flirty province, Jílín (吉林) teases with the ancient and the modern, the artificial and the supernatural. Travellers tired of great walls and imperial facades can explore Japanese-influenced architecture on the trail of the puppet emperor Puyi and the ruins of an ancient Korean kingdom. In fact, much of the far-eastern region comprises the little-known Korean Autonomous Prefecture, home to more than one million ethnic Koreans. Kimchi and cold noodles dominate the menu here and there’s an easy acceptance of outsiders.
Although known for its motor cities and smokestack towns, Jílín is also a popular ski destination and boasts China’s largest nature reserve. So go for the contrasts? No, go for the superlatives. Heaven Lake, a stunning, deep-blue volcanic crater lake within the country’s largest reserve, is one of China’s most mesmerising natural wonders. Yes, Jílín can be a little rough around the edges at times, but its rewards are pure polished jewels.
Lonely Planet China Page 30
