5Eating
The area surrounding Tongzhi Jie between Longli Lu and Ziyou Lu is one of the most popular parts of Chángchūn and is packed with inexpensive restaurants, music and clothing shops. Tree-lined Xikang Lu (west of Tongzhi Jie) is now an unofficial cafe street. Most of the dozen or so cafes have wi-fi and offer sandwiches and other simple meals. Guilin Lu is lined with cheap eateries and is locally famous for its street food.
M+MNOODLES$
(面面, Miàn Miàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2447 Tongzhi Jie, 同志街2447号 noodles ¥18-22; h10am-10pm)
You can slurp down your moreish noodles hot or cold, dry or in soup, with meat or without, and with side dishes that include broccoli or Chinese spinach at this popular 2nd-floor eatery overlooking busy Tongzhi Jie. Picture menu.
Sānyú ZhúyuànSICHUAN$
(三俞竹苑 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0431 8802 8127; 2222 Tongzhi Jie, 同志街2222号 mains ¥32-88; h10am-10pm; aWv)
The decoration starts with the lovely faux-antique interior and continues with fistfuls of chilli adorning every platter – meat, seafood, even frog. In true Sìchuān style, mildly spicy can translate to very spicy. The picture English menu also contains lots of veg and nonspicy options.
8Information
There are 24-hour ATMs all over town and in the north bus station.
AChangchun Live (www.changchunlive.com) A useful site started by long-term expats.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Chángchūn Lóngjiā International Airport (长春龙嘉国际机场; Chǎngchūn Lóngjiā Guójì Jīchǎng ) has daily flights to major cities, including Běijīng (¥900, two hours) and Shànghǎi (¥1000, 2½ hours) and also Chángbái Shān (¥1000, one hour).
Bus
The long-distance bus station (长途汽车站; chángtú qìchēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 226 Renmin Dajie; 人民大街226号 ) is two blocks south of the train station. Buses to Harbin leave from the north bus station (客运北站; kèyùn běi zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ) behind the train station. Facing the station, head left and take the underpass just past the 24-hour KFC (not to be confused with the non-24-hour KFC to the right of the train station, or the two across the street). Bus services include the following:
AHarbin ¥76, 3½ hours, 8.30am, 10am and noon
AShěnyáng ¥83, 4½ hours, 10am and 2pm
AYánjí ¥116, five hours, hourly, 7am to 5pm
Train
Avoid getting tickets for Chángchūn's west station (xī zhàn), 13km out of town. Instead use Chángchūn's main railway station (长春火车站; Chángchūn huǒchē zhàn ), which serves the following destinations.
ABěijīng (D/G trains) Seat ¥268, seven hours, eight daily
ABěijīng Hard seat/sleeper ¥129/252, eight to 16½ hours, nine daily
AHarbin (D/G trains) Seat ¥74 to ¥110, one to 1½ hours, hourly
AShěnyáng (D/G trains) Seat ¥92 to ¥145, 1½ to two hours, 33 daily
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The airport is 20km east of the city centre, between Chángchūn and Jílín. Shuttle buses to the airport (¥20, 50 minutes, every 30 minutes from 6am to 7pm) leave from the Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC; 中国民航; Zhōngguó Mínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0431 8298 8888; 480 Jiefang Dalu; 解放大路480号 ) on the east side of town. Taxi fares to the airport are ¥80 to ¥100 for the 40-minute trip.
Bus
Buses heading south leave from the train station bus stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) outside the south exit. Bus 6 follows Renmin Dajie all the way to the south part of town. Buses 62 and 362 run to the Chongqing Lu and Tongzhi Jie shopping districts.
Light Rail & Metro
The Chángchūn Light Rail service is only useful for getting to Jìngyuètán National Forest Park (净月潭国家森林公园; Jìngyuètán Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán ¥30; h8.30am-5.30pm). The station is just west of the train station. The opening of the Line 1 subway, passing through the train station and city centre, has seen delays but is on its way along with other lines.
Taxi
Taxi fares start at ¥5.
Hēilóngjiāng
Harbin
Mdanjiang
Jingpo Lake
Wdalian Chi
Mohe
Hēilóngjiāng
Pop 38.3 million
Why Go?
Hēilóngjiāng (黑龙江) means 'Black Dragon River', and this particular coiling dragon is the separating line between China and Russia. Across the province a neighbourly influence is evident in architecture, food and even souvenirs. Capital Harbin (Hā’ěrbīn), famed for its cobblestoned streets and European-style facades, is ground zero for this hybrid experience.
Of course, it gets cold – sub-Arctic cold – in China’s northernmost province, but that frigid weather is put to good use in winter, the peak tourist season. Harbin hosts a world-renowned ice-sculpture festival and the region has some of China’s finest ski runs. It gets busy, but it’s worth swaddling yourself in layers and joining the crowds.
Outside the cities, Hēilóngjiāng is a rugged, beautiful landscape of forests, lakes, mountains and dormant volcanoes. From Mòhé, China’s most northerly city, you can access the remote Běijícūn and Běihóngcūn for bragging rights to say you have stood at the very top of the Middle Kingdom.
When to Go
AJan Harbin hosts the Ice and Snow Festival.
AJun Mòhé holds the Northern Lights Festival.
ADec–Mar Ski season at Yàbùlì and Wǔdàlián Chí.
Best Places to Eat
A Wángmáolǘ Dòufu Měishí Diàn
A Orient King of Eastern Dumplings
A Harbin Food Market
Best Places to Sleep
A Sunny Date International Hotel
A Lungmen Grand Hotel
A Jīndì Bīnguǎn
Hēilóngjiāng Highlights
1 Mòhé Exploring China’s northernmost village, where every day feels like Christmas, while hoping to catch the elusive but spectacular aurora borealis.
2 Harbin Braving the cold to join the crowds who flock to Harbin’s world-famous Ice & Snow Festival, and then walking the brick-lined streets of Dàolǐqū district to explore Harbin’s Russian and Jewish past.
3 Wǔdàlián Chí Hiking to the top of a dormant volcano's crater mouth and through petrified lava fields, which fringe five lakes.
4 Yàbùlì Ski Resort Skiing and snowboarding at one of China’s finest ski resorts as the Winter Olympics buzz continues to be felt.
5 Rare Cranes Searching for these beautiful, endangered birds across the north in sanctuaries, such as in Zhālóng Nature Reserve, where Siberian cranes take flight.
History
Hēilóngjiāng forms the northernmost part of Dōngběi, the region formerly known as Manchuria. Its proximity to Russia has long meant strong historical and trade links with its northern neighbour. In the mid-19th century, Russia annexed parts of Hēilóngjiāng, while in 1897 Russian workers arrived to build a railway line linking Vladivostok with Harbin. By the 1920s well over 100,000 Russians resided in Harbin alone.
Hēilóngjiāng was occupied by the Japanese between 1931 and 1945. After the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) took power in 1949, relations with Russia grew steadily frostier, culminating in a brief border war in 1969. Sino-Russian ties have much improved in recent years and the two sides finally settled on the border in July 2008, after 40-odd years of negotiation.
In 2016 China relaxed its one-child policy further in Hēilóngjiāng, allowing overseas returnees to have up to three children in this ageing province.
Climate
The region experiences long, freezing winters, with temperatures dropping below -30°C. Short summers are warm and humid, especially in the south and east. Temperatures in the mid- to high 30°Cs are possible and afternoon showers are common.
8Getting There & Around
Harbin is the logistical hub for the region and has extensive links with the rest of China. High-
speed D and G trains link Harbin with the southern train hubs of Shěnyáng and Chángchūn, and with Qíqíhā'ěr to the north. If you’re headed for Inner Mongolia, direct trains run from Harbin to the cities of Hǎilā’ěr and Mǎnzhōulǐ.
Buses are often a quicker way of getting around than the slow local trains.
Harbin 哈尔滨
%0451 / Pop 4.59 million
For a city of its size, Harbin (哈尔滨; Hā’ěrbīn) is surprisingly easygoing. Cars (and even bicycles) are barred from Zhongyang Dajie, the main drag of the historic Dàolǐqū district, where most of Harbin’s historical buildings can be found. The long riverfront also provides sanctuary for walkers, as does Sun Island on the other side.
The city’s sights are as varied as the architectural styles on the old street. Temples, old churches and synagogues coexist, while deep in the southern suburbs a former Japanese germ-warfare base is a sobering reminder of less harmonious times. Harbin’s rich Russian and Jewish heritage makes it worth visiting at any time of year, but winter is tops with the world-class ice-sculpture festival turning the frosty riverfront, and other venues, into a multicoloured wonderland.
History
In 1896 Russia negotiated a contract to build a railway line from Vladivostok to both Harbin, then a small fishing village, and Dàlián (in Liáoníng province). The subsequent influx of Russian workers was followed by Russian Jews and then White Russians escaping the 1917 Russian Revolution.
These days, Harbin, whose name comes from a Manchu word meaning ‘a place to dry fishing nets’, is an ever-expanding, largely industrial city. While Chinese are the majority, foreign faces (especially Russian) are still common on the streets. You will hear Chinese referring to Harbin by its Mandarin name, Hā’ěrbīn (哈尔滨), while most visitors use the older Harbin.
Harbin
1Top Sights
1Church of St SophiaB2
1Sights
2Dàolǐqū districtB2
3Harbin Main SynagogueA2
Jewish Middle SchoolA2
4Stalin ParkA1
5Zhāolín ParkB1
4Sleeping
6Hàolín Business HotelA2
7Ibis HotelB2
8Jīndì BīnguǎnB1
9Kazy International Youth HostelB2
10Lungmen Grand HotelC4
11Modern HotelB2
5Eating
12Cafe RussiaB1
13Harbin Food MarketB2
14Láifùbiǎndān Chóngqìng Xiǎo MiànA1
15Lóngjiāng Xiǎochī JiēB2
16Old Chang's Spring RollsB2
17Orient King of Eastern DumplingsB2
18Orient King of Eastern DumplingsC4
19Sùxīn Shídù VegetarianB2
6Drinking & Nightlife
20Ming TienB1
7Shopping
21Hóngbó Century SquareD4
22Tòulóng Shopping CityC2
8Information
23Harbin Modern Travel CompanyB2
Transport
24Cable CarA1
25Ferries to Sun Island ParkA1
26Harbin Airport ShuttleC4
27Harbin Railway International Travel ServiceC4
Harbin Train Booking OfficeC4
28Local Bus StopC4
29Long-Distance Bus StationC4
1Sights
The Dàolǐqū district (道里区; Old Harbin MAP GOOGLE MAP ), in particular the brick-lined street of Zhongyang Dajie, is the most obvious legacy of Russia’s involvement with Harbin. Now a pedestrian-only zone, the street is lined with buildings that date back to the early 20th century. Some are imposing, others distinctly dilapidated, but the mix of architectural styles is fascinating. Other nearby streets lined with handsome old buildings include Shangzhi Dajie and Zhaolin Jie.
Elsewhere in the city, Hongjun Jie, heading south from the train station, and Dongdazhi Jie also feature rows of stately old buildings, including a few churches. The latter street and some of its arteries also have the dubious reputation of sporting some heady postmodern Russian-style architecture of questionable taste.
In all of these areas, the city has erected plaques on the most worthy buildings giving short English and Chinese descriptions of the date of construction, the architect and the former usage.
A number of temples are within walking distance of each other in the Nángàng district. The Temple of Bliss (极乐寺; Jílè Sì GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Dongdazhi Jie; 东大直街9号 ¥10; h8.30am-4pm) sits off a pedestrian-only street reachable by bus 53 (¥1) or taxi (¥12) from the Dàolǐqū district 5km away. For Harbin Confucius Temple (哈尔滨文庙; Hā'ěrbīn Wénmiào GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Wenmiao Jie; 文庙街25号 h9am-3.30pm, closed Wed), look for an arch down to the right at the start of the pedestrian street. Pass through this and then a second arch on the left. The temple is a 10-minute walk along Wenmiao Jie. You can also cut through Harbin Culture Park after the Temple of Bliss en route to Harbin Confucius Temple.
oChurch of St SophiaCHURCH
(圣索菲亚教堂, Shèng Suǒfēiyà Jiàotáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 88 Toulong Jie, cnr Zhaolin Jie, 透笼街88号 ¥20; h8.30am-5pm)
The red-brick Russian Orthodox Church of St Sophia, with its distinctive green onion dome and roosting pigeons, is Harbin’s most famous landmark. Built in 1907, the church has traded religion for photographs of Harbin from the early 1900s. Its unrestored interior and dusty chandeliers evoke a faded yesteryear glamour.
Harbin Culture ParkAMUSEMENT PARK
(哈尔滨文化公园, Hā'ěrbīn Wénhuà Gōngyuán GOOGLE MAP ; 208 Nantong Dajie, 南通大街208号 ¥5, rides from ¥30; h8.30am-5pm)
If culture equals amusement, then the creators of this park have certainly ticked all the right boxes. The gigantic Ferris wheel offers panoramic views of the city and it's worth strolling around the grounds to see the locals having a great time. The park is in between the Temple of Bliss and the Harbin Confucius Temple near an atmospheric old Russian church. A taxi here costs ¥12.
Jewish Middle SchoolHISTORIC BUILDING
(犹太中学, Yóutài Zhōngxué MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tongjiang Jie, 通江街 )
This was the first Jewish middle school in the Far East and most recently housed a Korean (!) school. It has since been immaculately restored as part of a shared compound with the original synagogue.
Zhāolín ParkPARK
(照林公园, Zhàolín Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 377 Senlin Jie, 森林街377号 Ice Lantern venue ¥200)
During the Harbin Ice & Snow Festival, the Ice Lantern venue is in Zhāolín Park, though many consider it the least interesting venue. If you do visit, go at night when the lanterns are lit.
Sun Island ParkPARK
(太阳岛公园, Tàiyángdǎo Gōngyuán GOOGLE MAP ; cable car 1-way/return ¥50/80; hcable car 8.30am-5pm)
Across the river from Stalin Park (斯大林公园; Sīdàlín Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is Sun Island Park, a 38-sq-km recreational zone with landscaped gardens, a ‘water world’, a ‘Russian-style’ town, and various small galleries and museums. It’s a pleasant place to have a picnic, walk or bike (¥60 per hour), though as usual you need to pay extra to get into many areas (most people find it too kitsch and not worth the money).
A ticket is required for entry during the Harbin Ice and Snow Festival.
Ferries across depart from one of many docks just north of the Flood Control Monument in warmer months. During the Ice Festival when the waters are frozen, catch the nearby cable car.
Harbin Main SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(哈尔滨犹太会堂, Hā’ěrbīn Yóutài Huìtáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 82 Tongjiang Jie, Yóutài Jiùhuìtáng, 通江街82号 )F
The beautiful old Main Synagogue, built in 1909, has been refurbished as a concert venue with a small museum. Close by is the former Jewish Middle School.
Huángshān Jewish CemeteryCEMETERY
(皇山公墓, Huángshān Gōngmù GOOGLE MAP )
Located in the far eastern suburbs of Harbin, this is the largest Jewish cemetery in East A
sia. There are more than 600 graves here, all well maintained. A taxi here takes around 45 minutes and costs about ¥100.
Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental BaseMUSEUM
(侵华日军第731部队遗址, Qīnhuá Rìjūn Dì 731 Bùduì Yízhǐ GOOGLE MAP ; www.731yz.com; Xinjiang Dajie, 新疆大街 h9-11am & 1-3.30pm Tue-Sun)F
This museum is set in the notorious Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base (Division 731). Between 1939 and 1945, prisoners of war and civilians were frozen alive, subjected to vivisection or infected with bubonic plague, syphilis and other virulent diseases. Three to four thousand people died here in the most gruesome fashion. The museum includes photos, sculptures and exhibits of the equipment used by the Japanese. There are extensive English captions and an audio guide is available for ¥15.
The base is in the south of Harbin and takes an hour to get to by bus. In the alley beside the Kunlun Hotel on Tielu Jie, catch bus 338 or 343 (¥2). Get off at the stop called Xinjiang Dajie. Walk back 500m along Xinjiang Dajie and look for the base on the left-hand side of the road. If you get lost, just ask the locals the way to Qī Sān Yī (731). Note that Chinese people can be, understandably, uncomfortable talking about this museum.
Lonely Planet China Page 33
